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Ignition chip

 
Old 12-28-2009, 01:29 PM
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Default Ignition chip

Hey guys,

just had a quick question. With the Adaptronic, will an 01+ car with the chipped Mazda keys run on a cheap blank? Or is the security a separate module not built into the factory ecu? I was under the impression using a non chipped key only cuts the fuel pump.
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Old 12-28-2009, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dgmorr View Post
Hey guys,

just had a quick question. With the Adaptronic, will an 01+ car with the chipped Mazda keys run on a cheap blank? Or is the security a separate module not built into the factory ecu? I was under the impression using a non chipped key only cuts the fuel pump.
I wired per the instructions from Adaptronic and had no issues. It was plug and play with nothing extra needed.

Cheers,
Prospero
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Old 12-28-2009, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Prospero View Post
I wired per the instructions from Adaptronic and had no issues. It was plug and play with nothing extra needed.

Cheers,
Prospero
So you are able to use a regular $3 key now?
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Old 12-28-2009, 01:41 PM
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The immobilizer module is seperate from the PCM. They communicate through a bi-directional serial link on pin 3S.

Typically piggys have no effect on immobilizer operation (meaning a non-chipped key typically would NOT work), though of course I can not specifically answer for Adap since I've not looked into it or been hands-on.
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Old 12-28-2009, 01:46 PM
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I'm not sure what the immobilizer disables--maybe all ECU functionality (they're mated pairs btw). The car will work fine with the ECU totally disconnected and another EMS in its place (hydra, eg)
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Old 12-28-2009, 01:50 PM
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I'm gonna go get a cheap key now and see what happens.
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Old 12-28-2009, 01:58 PM
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for the record, a cheap $3 key works! The Adaptronic has just paid for itself (I only have one real chipped key)!
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Old 12-28-2009, 02:02 PM
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Sweet. Does the immobilizer light flash at you or anything? Do you get a MIL?
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Old 12-28-2009, 02:17 PM
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Here is a tip for those who have only one key and don't want to pay for key registration. get a new non-imobilizer key made. Then tape ziptie or however you want securly fasten the key as close to the ignition switch as possible. This will allow the car to run without paying for the programing. This also allows a thief to steel your car if they so desire.

Have a great day,
Jared
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Old 12-28-2009, 02:35 PM
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The immobilizer light does flash every 30 seconds or so. What is MIL?

I guess this subtracts about $300 from my total build, since new keys are the cost of driving
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Old 12-28-2009, 02:36 PM
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the check engine light.
I'm kinda surprised the stock computer's not pissed and throwing codes.
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Old 12-28-2009, 02:41 PM
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I get the CEL, but it's for a missing 2nd o2. I'll have to read the codes again to see if anything new came up.
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Old 12-29-2009, 08:04 PM
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Here are the whack of codes I got from my scanner

P0010 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1) [Due to Adaptronic?]
P0037 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0453 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input
P0480 Cooling Fan I Control Circuit Malfunction
P1504 Idle Air Control Solenoid Circuit Intermittent
P1518 Intake Manifold Runner Stuck Open (Bank 1) [Due to Adaptronic?]
P1569 VTCS Circuit Low Input [Due to Adaptronic?]
P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control

I took these after I was having a rough idle. I don't have a secondary o2 sensor. Can someone help correlate which ones may be for the o2 sensor and which may be for using the cheap key blanks? And I'm sure some of these may be from having the Adaptronic ecu?
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