martijn

iTrader: (1)

Yeah,
Finally I have my adaptronic and the plug-in loom.



Now its just a matter of time.
First I need to check the pin-out, because I have an NBFL 1,6L and the loom in designed for an 1,8L. As far I have checked a few wires, they are all the same. If all wires are on the right pins, then I'm going to fit de adaptronic behind the glove-box. The idea is to run first na with the adaptronic and lc-1 before mounting the turbo.

Stein

iTrader: (46)

I wish I would have had that option, but it's too late. Good luck. Mine should be here in a week or so. Let me know how the "behind the glove box" works for you. I'll probably copy it.

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

If you do end up finding a schematic letme know. I'd like to collect one. All I have is the wiring diagram for the 1.8L harnesses, and the oem output. As far as I know I'm the only active dealer in the U.S. Its likely you won't get much help from the USA guys.

martijn

iTrader: (1)

TravisR

With the loom, came a drawing how the loom is wired.
And from a friend in the Netherlands I recieved the oem wiring drawing.
It seems that the pinlayout of the 1,8L miata and the 1,6L mx-5 are the same.

I suppose that Andrew can give you more info about the wiring.

For me its a matter of checking the pinlayout, then mounting the map and give it a try. I'll hope that the cluster is going to work and that the mil is'nt burning.

With a little luck I'm driving on adaptronic before you are

martijn

iTrader: (1)

Oke, I had the time to check the pin-layout. The 1,6L and the 1,8L pin-layout for the 2001-2005 models are the same. A few wires are different of color and my car hasn't AC, but the layout is the same.

Bit by bit I'm getting further

martijn

iTrader: (1)

YES!!!

The adaptronic works. It was just a matter of pluging in the loom between the stock ecu and the original wiring and connecting the loom to the adaptronic. At first attempt the engine came to life.

The first evening (wednesday) I drove on rapid learning, and a friend of me was tuning the engine at the same time.
Starting the cold engine was a bit of a problem the next morning. During cranking pushed until WOT and the engine started. My conclusion: the extra effort correction based on the coolant temperature was a bit to high, simple during cranking the injection was to rich.

Thursday evening we spend again some driving time in the car, now with slow converge. The goal was to make the idle control more friendly, because some times driving away and stoping caused the engine to shut down. The corrections we made where the mininum duty cycle of the step motor and the different corrections based on coolant temp and the calmdown effort.
The result was that the engine was more friendly, but.... I was stil not completly satisfied.
Today I spend some time to look to an ecu file from the site adaptronic.com.au , on the site there is a file of an dyno tuned mx-5 NA 1,6L.
After a study af that file, I copied the idle settings to my ecu-file.

For now its almost like the stock ecu controls the car! I wonder how the car starts tommorow morning with cold engine.

Tuning is fun

18psi

iTrader: (76)

this is awesome. I'm supposed to get mine in any day now, cant wait

what kind of turbo setup are you running on your car, or is it still n/a?
also, what map did you end up using as the base tune, the one provided on the site?

martijn

iTrader: (1)

Here are the pics mounted in the car.



For now the car runs fine. I'm going for an dyno-run on 4 april. A friend of me will help then with tuning.

The car is still na.
The turbo is an turbo of a nissan 300sx fitted on a greddy manifold.
Things still to do: downpipe, pipe between the IC and the turbo and the oil return line. Can't wait to drive with turbo

martijn

iTrader: (1)

I forgot something:
I used the map I recieved from Andrew from Adaptronic for an NBB. The problem with that file is that its based on a 1,8L engine instead of a 1,6L.
My NBB is a 1,6L, so we had to adjust the fuel and ignition maps.
the idle-ing and the behavior around driving away was not that great. To solve that problem I've used the idle settings of a dyno-tuned 1,6L NA.
The car now runs great. I'm still trying to get the idle rpm a bit lower to 850RPM instead of 950RPM now. If its not possible to get that to a reliable behavier, I can live with 950RPM.

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

You should be able to tune down the target using the open loop idle control settings, also those closed loop idle correction factors are extremely important. Mine idles like a rock at 850, even with a lightened flywheel. Minimum effort 65%. Correction settings 2,7,and 3 if I remember correctly.

martijn

iTrader: (1)

Travis,
What do you mean with correction settings? I suppose you meant the PID settings in the closed loop control field on the idle tab?
Mine PID settings: P=1 I=0 D=4 and the overall control of the idle valve is set with minimum 65%. So far the car runs good, idle is a bit lower now about 950. I don't have AC, but the aux input was missing a input, so I disabled the input. With no correction for the AC, idle dropped about 200 RPM. Another correction is that the controlband was 200 RPM, now its narrowd to 50 RPM.
Idle is set to 900 RPM, with the 50 RPM controlband the engine idles at 950RPM. Stil truying to get that a bit lower, but it seems that the engine then begins to run a bit less smooth. Probably that is because of the PID settings, maybe its time to try your settings.

martijn

iTrader: (1)

@Travis.
I copied your PID settings: 2, 7, 3.
And... the minimum setting for the idle valve is now set on 63%.
The reult: engine idles on 850RPM, and its easy to drive away.

THX for the info

Tedsmx5

Pink bubble rap is anti-static, means it may give a path for noise from one input to bleed into another, maybe not a good long term idea. Good position to mount the ecu. I leave a short comms cable attached for easy access for the PC.
Ted

TravisR

iTrader: (9)

You welcome!

I don't like how the harness just kind of hangs out there either, but it is one tough circuit board. I just kept mine out in the air, it is chemical sealed from the factory.

martijn

iTrader: (1)

I've adjusted de isolating of the circuitboard.
I've made a plastic junction box around it, it forced me to turn the original ecu by 90 degrees to the right.
Pics will follow. Now the circuitboard is also protected to pressure.

Reason: I blew a 30A fuse because a pin of the chassis was shorted to ground, because it was bend.

martijn

iTrader: (1)

I forgot: On the adaptronic I have always an rs232 cable, and the other end of it is in my dashboardcabinet connected to an serial to usb converter.

martijn

iTrader: (1)

I made a prommis for pics of the plastic juntionbox.
Here the are.

martijn

iTrader: (1)

I'm driving for a month or so, and so far sattisfied with the system.

Still to get correct behavior:
As the fan or the blower (4) or the rearwindow defroster is switched in, the sudden change of electrical power has the effect that idle speed drops.
so far I have changed dead time correction, that helped a bit but isn't the solution.

Does someone have a solution for me?

What I noticed: the NA has input from headlights, blower and fan to the ECU. The NBB do not have this.
If there is no other solution, I'm going to wire these functions to the adaptronic so it can sense the extra electricload (and can correct it with extra rpm's)

Would like it if someone has a solution for me how you made a solution on your NBA or NBB.

Greetings Martijn

martijn

iTrader: (1)

Okay, yesterday whas dynoday!
The result the car wasn't that bad street tuned, they tuned an extra 3hp for me. We also made a run with the original ECU, and guess what! The lines are almost the same. So with everything stock you can't get more power out of a NBB miata.

The only thing I still want to solve, is an dip created by electrical power.
This week I'm going to read the faultcodes in the ECU, because the MIL is on.
I'm guessing that something is missing to the original ECU and that has an relation to the generator controls.

But..... now I'm ready to mount the turbo stuff to the engine