Ugh, I sux. I got most of the IC and piping in place, but my driver side inner fender doesn't look so healthy. I guess the 99-00 and 01+ are different enough to make this a bit harder than I thought. Is any of the inner driver side fender structural where the pipe passes through? I pretty much copied the spot that you had it in, but it didn't fit right for me, so I ovalized the opening towards the front.

The wheel rubs the IC pipe on the driver side and I haven't even rolled the car back and forth yet, so it hasn't fully settled. Maybe I'm a bit too ricer and low.

I'm a bit saddened by my crappy measuring, so I'm probably gonna go out and get a crappy flux core welder to patch up the fender hole tomorrow. Sure wish I had better measuring and fabbing skills.

I'm almost embarrassed to post this
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/3273/img4865w.jpg

I wouldn't weld to it. Get some aluminum sheet, .030" thick or so, trim a cover plate to cover the hole and around the tube with clearance and pop rivet it in place. I did this when I pulled the kit to cover the holes and it looks good. The bare aluminum doesn't really look out of place and it will conform to the curves.

Thanks. I think I will end up using rivets and some sort of adhesive after doing a bit more reading. I think I need to move it forward about 2", which will involve more cutting :(

Is this going to cause any structural weakening?

Nope, not out there. You are outside of the rail. You will have to move it forward to clear the tire. Mine wouldn't rub on full lock/full compression at 13R/12.5F ride height.

Alright, I was able to enlarge the hole a bit more :eek5: and get the IC pipe out of the tire's way.

Today I am going to tap the pan. I have no idea how n00bs do this. I took all the splash guards and bumper off and the oil pan position is burried in there!

Anyone got a quick answer...

Should I tap for one of these, or use a threaded fitting for both ends? I've used this on one of my previous cars, but I know everyone uses those baller AN fittings...which are not easy to find around here.

http://us1.webpublications.com.au/st...6/2692_3lo.jpg

/\ That's what I used. You can get at it. It just takes some work. I don't recall if I removed my AC from the bracket or not. Don't take the lines loose if you do.

Did you download the manual that I told you to? It covers this.

http://www.bellengineering.net/templ...es%205_1.1.pdf

Yup, I've read both the FM and Begi manual a few times. It's very easy in my head, but doing it is another story.

Spent an hour at a couple hardware stores and cannot find an NPT tap. All the real Tool shops are closed on the weekends.

NPT taps are a little hard to find at regular stores. I ended up ordering one online, but I'm not in the middle of the install either

I found a tool shop in the ghettos about 45 minutes from my place that had the tap in stock and open Sunday. I went there as soon as it opened and got it. Couldn't find a 37/64 bit, so I used a 9/16. It wasn't a problem but a 37/64 would probably be easier to tap. Everything on the hot side is done but the oil feed and coolant hookups. Just have to connect those and connect the cold side of the IC piping and it'll be ready to start! I'll take some pics tomorrow as I'm pretty beat now. Worked on it since noon today.

I was able to hook all of the hot side up and fire it up today. Is it normal for any oil to come out of the compressor side? I have a little bit coming through compressor outlet...this is without the cam cover PCV hose connected. Is this turbo on it's way out? There is very little to no shaft play and is said to have around 6k miles on it.

I don't have the cold side of the IC done yet, so I just took a slow drive around to make sure I have no leaks - all good!

I also have what sounds like an exhaust leak, but only while the engine is still cold. Is this just something to do with the thinner metal of my manifold vs the stock heavy header? When warmed up it sounds smooth and I don't get that exhaust leak crackle.

Let me be the first to say that having an FM 2.5" turbo exhaust with no turbo is completely ricer. The volume of the exhaust is sooooo much better now.

Here's a quick pic

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/1015/img4869aq.jpg

Looks good. Glad that you have gotten it installed. Hope the oil leak issue gets worked out.

Have a great day,
Jared

Thanks, I don't think it's too major, just a bit more than I was expecting, but no worries.

I just took it out for a quick spin around the block all hooked up. It feels so fast to me now. I didn't take it over 3500 rpm and only gave it 25% throttle and it moves well! So pleased!

Stein, the DV that you used, did it make a fluttering noise or was it just a simple woosh? I'll have to double check that it's opening up as I hear a lot of fluttering.

DV? If you mean BOV, never, ever a flutter. Just a nice psssshhh when you let off. It never gave me a lick of trouble. If you are getting fluttering, it probably isn't opening right and you are getting compressor surge. But, I was always really pleased with how it worked. I wouldn't change springs or spacers, either. You might want to unscrew it and clean and lightly oil, but the spring that is in there worked perfectly at wastegate pressure (IIRC, 7 psi) and at 10 psi on the MBC.

I wasn't sure if it was a DV or BOV :giggle:. Looks like the DV that was on my Saab. I'll check it all over tomorrow and make adjustments. I'm all sore from working on the car for 10 hours.

Thanks for all the help guys :wavey:

OOps, I think I plugged the BOV vac line in to a port before the throttle body. I'll get to that in the morning :)

Yeah, that should do it. I had mine on the previously capped port just after the TB on the top of the IM.

What causes the revs to hang when I let go of the gas? I gave it about 50% to 5k rpm and when I clutched in the revs were hanging at about 6k for 15-20 seconds.

The install was easy, now comes the hard part :sad2:

Ugh, I am so lost. I understand most of the theory, but actually doing it all is a whole other world.

How did you guys get your base tunes? Did you just drive it around and let the ECU rapid learn? Even under boost?

I have the fuel map set pretty high above 100kpa but the car falls flat on its face when exceeding 4k rpm. Everything builds nicely up to that point and then all of a sudden it feels like the brakes are slammed.

btw, I can leave the wastegate hose disconnected since the spring is only 7lbs correct? I should get out there and test the wg spring with my compressor just to make sure it is 7lbs or so. It certainly sounds like a hell of a lot more, but my data logs say i'm maxing at only 138kpa.

make sure your control authority minimum is low enough (10-15) and that your base idle value for open loop is only about 10% higher than your normally logged closed loop values. you can put the car into open loop by zeroing out the PID values on the lower left and fiddle with the open loop table until it seems close.

are you running any "dashpot" (upper right)? that could make the rpm hang like that too.

check your "Power Cut" tab for any values that are close to that RPM. Check your overboost is set higher than your WG can.

make sure you dont have a flat shift/launch control enabled.

are you using VE for the fuel map? it's hard to guess at fuel values without getting close to those cells.

I have my PnP board set so that the stock ecu handles the idle control. I also don't know what functions are handed back to the factory ecu.

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/5522/img4859q.jpg

My power cut is set to 167kpa which is about 9.5psi. I haven't seen higher than 138kpa in the logs. I'm afraid to keep trying it to get a good log.

I am using VE for the fuel map.

There's no way I can run less boost than the wastegate spring is there? I don't have a threaded wastegate rod.

I'm about to lose it with this thing again. The car is trying to idle at 4000 rpm.

Would someone mind giving my ecu file a once over?

I tried loading the map that is supplied by Boundary and I have the exact same result.

I made no changes. All the IC pipes are connected and I have no intake leaks from what I can tell. The throttle plate is closed. IACV stuck open? How would I test the IACV?

Falling flat at 4K is most likely the knock sensor retarding spark. IIRC, base map values retard 1* for every couple of points of knock detected. Right around 4K there is a false spike in knock to 40-60 so it is probably retarding timing something like 15* at that point.

If you want to test the theory, set knock sensor retard to 1* for every 20 points of knock and try again. I suspect that it will go away. Unfortunately, someone with WARI will have to tell you where it is, as I have forgotten.

That was my first guess, but I'm recording 0 knock in the logs. I am surprised to not even see 1. I was about to go for another run with the overboost set a a few kpa higher.

I'm just trying to get my idle down at this point. Never knew a car could make someone cry :vash:

I think your IACV is stuck.

I had the same issue a couple of times. The first time, it just went away. The second time, I lowered my throttle position screw all the way down until idle was decent. Turned the car off and tried to start the car. The car couldn't start with the throttle screw so down. Returned the screw to a normal setting and the idle was normal again.

Is the IACV inlet the little square just before the TB plate? I'm searching for more info on it now, but if anyone has a few quick answers I would greatly appreciate it.

Is the valve normally open or closed when the car is off? Without knowing exactly what I was looking at, that square is fully open.

just looked at your map.

cold rev limit is 4500. what's your water temp in your logs when this happens?

also are you using an LC1 wideband or a Bosch wideband? on the 2nd tab over, if you're not using hte Bosch, set it to "NONE".

also, that pic of your plug in harness sure looks like the jumpers are set to "e420c" and not "factory"...

I wasn't logging at the time, but I was going through the calculation trace. My water temps were 65*C as it has been sitting for a couple hours. The limit is set to 60*C. It also didn't sound like it was hitting any sort of limiter.

The picture shows e420c, but I was just using that as a reference. My jumpers are on the factory ecu pins.

I am using an LC1. I will set the o2 sensor to none. I thought the LC1 kit had a Bosh sensor? Maybe I'm just confused. So I set the Serial In to LC1 and the other tab to None? I'll change that.

My short and long post crank settings were giving a fuel trim of 55%. I lowered those to try and rule that out.

What should I plug the IACV hole with? I just don't want some piece of tape to get sucked in.

Thanks!

Ok, IACV it is. I just shoved my finger in there with a glove and it calmed down. I'll take it apart and clean it.

wait, so you're talking about the boss on the passenger side of the TB for the idle air bypass? there's usually a screw in there you can crank down to lower idle.

No, I know how to set that idle screw. I removed the elbow from the TB inlet and there is a square hole at the 6 o'clock position inside before the butterfly. I am only assuming that it is the IACV as that is what it looks like to me.

The square inside the TB is what I am referring to. This is fully open and when I cover it the idle drops down. I'm guessing it is the IACV? My assumption is that the motor below controls it and is either stuck or dead.

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/5646/img4873mr.jpg

oh right, yeah that is for the idle valve.

Damn, I took apart the TB and IACV and a couple small pebbles fell out of the IACV passage. The diaphragm must have been blocked. I ended up replacing the crappy Phillips head screws with 10.9 metric hex heads, must easier to take apart next time. Cleaned it all out and lubricated it. Works fine now.

Now back to the real problems...

I set my overboost limit to 180kpa and still hitting some cut off. It feels so fast nonetheless. My AFR is on the lean side I think and I don't sense any knock with my ears. Is there a way to see if the knock sensor is working? Do I just tap on the block and watch the counter?

Is it normal for the AFR to lag behind the MAP reading? I am guessing it is ok since the MAP is the first sensor in the chain? It is also normal for the AFR to get really high when off throttle since the injectors basically shut off when off throttle right?

This is a little 1-2-3 gear pull. Can you guys tell me if I am at any risk? I hit some sort of wall in the middle of 3rd gear. My overboost limit is set to 180kpa, but as you can see from the log, it was only seeing 172kpa. Let me know if you would like to see other data to go with this.

http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/3860/logtz.jpg

Ok, figured out the fuel/ignition cut. I forgot that I disconnected the WG reference line....n00b :bang:

Now it feels like what I was expecting. I am surprised the log did not capture whatever the overboost pressure was.

Now I have to put all the splash guards and bumper back in. No surprise that many of the plastic rivets broke.

The log is only updated every 0.1s. At the rate you were building boost it could easily miss 8kpa.

WTF Of course now my idle is 500 rpms above normal. Not as bad as last time but my suggestion for fixing it didn't resolve it like last time. My idle is also logging in at 10 again. Looks like I have to clean my valve also.

Is your stock ecu controlling idle or the Adaptronic?

adaptronic

Once I finish installing my clutch I want to get the car dyno tuned. Should I be getting larger injectors? I'm hoping for about 200whp, and I know the calculations won't get me there. I know I'm not running a Begi kit, but their documents don't mention anything about larger injectors for their kits. Is this because they are using an adjustable or rising rate FPR? Should I get larger injectors for the sake of not having my stock ones as a bottle neck?

I have a set of RX7 460cc and 550cc available locally for $120

IIRC, you can run about 8 psi max on the stock injectors, so you could run on wastegate for now. It's 7 I believe. I'd definitely suggest either the 460's or 550's, might as well go 550's if the price is the same. I'd get them cleaned, too. You don't want a partially clogged injector hosing your motor. Bear in mind if you dyno tune now, you will have to do it all over again if you up the injectors later, so it's money saved.

Yeah, it was sort of a dumb question and I already knew the answer :giggle:

I was just over-reading things and wondering why most of the Begi kits don't mention injectors. I would definitely only dyno tune once the larger injectors are in.

I finally got the car all put back together. I'm a bit disappointed that I mounted the IC slightly crooked, but it is ok for now. I'll take some pics in a day or so - I'm working this weekend :vash:


Thanks again.

Do I need to get dyno tuning or is the autotune function reliable? I'm somewhat skeptical about it, but it was one of the main selling features for me.

It works to get it close, and then go into WARI and hand smooth the untuned cells between the tuned cells. It's pretty obvious. You can see the trend in fuel and make a pretty arc between the tuned cells.

After that I would log driving in an out of boost. Try to have smooth transitions. I also would try to hold acceleration to target each 20 kPa through the RPM band. So, go out and do a pull holding 80 kPa, then 100, and so on. After that I looked at the log and tried to peg high and low AFRs that hit cells and hand tune them. It takes some time but you can get it pretty quick. A couple of logged runs back and forth to the computer will get it pretty decent.

Thanks for the tips. I did a bit more of it today. I'm a little more reluctant to mess with the ignition map.

I'm only running off the WG spring which is about 7psi. I can't imagine what 10-12psi is going to feel like.

Can you guys critique my timing map? Should I be messing with the timing map first or the fuel?

I'm guessing I can add more timing under boost? I'm only going to be running up to 150kpa for a while until my larger injectors com in.
Also going to be using the stock rev limiter.
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/7679/spark1.jpg

I never touched the stock timing map. There are gains to be had, but concentrate on fuel now. When you have a nice fuel map, then go to timing. It will be minor adjustments to fuel when you change timing.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._2750970_n.jpg

And this is where all my fun went up in smoke. It appears that some make shift part was used to replace the circlip at the end of the turbine bushing which may or may not have lead to the eventual failure.

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/7...cture003wc.jpg

I'm having trouble picturing what that is. Part of the turbo I assume?

It looks like a bearing.

Have a great day
Jared

Yup, this is the turbine side bushing. I've got the rebuild kit on the way. I'm debating whether or not I should get a T28 compressor wheel for this or not.

Sorry that that happened. How was the car before it went up in smoke? Car looks good.

Have a great day,
Jared

The turbo has been smoking since day 1. I put on a DIY rivet restrictor in the oil line and it helped a little, but not by much. I've driven it to tune it up to about 12psi, but I stopped using it during the day because of the smoke. I got bored this past Sunday and decided to take it all apart.

I actually ended up breaking a bolt for the turbo in the manifold and I'm having trouble getting the manifold off the engine. It's gonna be hard times to get it back together.

I am sorry that it is beeing a pain in the ass. What was the power you were getting at 12psi? I bet it was a kick in the pants.

Have a great day,
Jared

Ah it's not a problem, I was planning to use this as an intermediate step into turbos but I really like how it makes power at low rpms.

I didn't dyno it yet, but I'm guessing around 200whp.

Anyone have any tips on how to get two of the inner lower manifold nuts out? My turbo manifold doesn't let me use a socket on these, only an open end wrench will fit. I have an oxyacetylene torch but I'd like to avoid this until the last resort. The nut is starting to round off. I've been spraying it with WD-40 these last two days. The reason I need it off is because one of the 4 bolts holing the turbo to the manifold broke, so I need to drill it out and tap it.

Try PB Blaster instead of WD-40 and you will wonder why you ever used WD-40. Also try just heating it and not torching it off

U can also try a reversed drill bit. If that is even what you would even call it. Good luck. Pictures of it might be of some help.

Have a great day,
Jared

PB Blaster is that much better eh? I'll give it a try. I think even propane might be hot enough, since I only mounted this about 2 to 3 months ago.

It's two of the nuts holding the manifold to the head that are stuck. I'll get pics up later.

I was able to get the broken stud out of the turbo flange on the manifold, but I couldn't get the lower nuts off the head to remove the manifold. I guess it will be ok as long as I don't ever have to remove the manifold. I am going to replace the 7 nuts that I can get off. What type of nut should I be using? Is it fine to use a Grade 8 zinc plated, or do I need something better?

Going to have to break out my oxyacetylene torch sooner or later, propane was not enough.

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/3078/picture007e.jpg

You actually trying to cut it off or just using the heat? Manifold bolts can suck.

Edit: and now for something constructive. Just use some kind of locking nut on it. 8.8 or 10.9 would be fine (I think those are the right grade numbers for metric). Off the top of my head, the size is 8mm-1.25

And after the rebuild, my turbo still smokes :vash: