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-   -   My 2001 NB Adaptronic install thread (https://www.miataturbo.net/adaptronic-63/my-2001-nb-adaptronic-install-thread-42159/)

dgmorr 12-17-2009 03:26 PM

My 2001 NB Adaptronic install thread
 
EDIT:

Ok, so I decided to create a thread of my install and I will take pics as I go. I'm new to real tuning 'stuff' so I thought other n00bs would like some dummy pics and info in one place to help out. I'm going to be doing the install either tomorrow night, or Saturday morning depending on the answers to the questions below.

The install will be on my 2001 NB


Dec 17 2009
1.
Looks like my ecu will finally be here today based on the tracking number. I don't have my LC-1 yet but i really want to get this thing in! I am mostly stock right now, other than intake and exhaust. Would I be safe installing this thing and just running the base map on the Boundary site without trying to tune?

My turbo parts collection is not quite complete yet, but it'll get there.

2.
I ordered the 3bar MAP sensor, but I am not turbo'd yet. Do I have to do anything different to calibrate this properly, or do I just leave the boost cells on the fuel/ign tables alone? Should I be using a vacuum pump with gauge to set the minimum kpa value or is this already pre-calibrated?





December 18

Here are a couple pics of my car. I don't have many decent full pics

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/7457/img3992e.jpg
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/2614/img4675h.jpg



Pics of the contents

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/4096/img4790x.jpg
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/3114/img4791.jpg
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/156/img4793.jpg

Should I be worried about this?
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/3926/img4794i.jpg
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/213/img4795h.jpg
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/1743/img4796m.jpg
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/7278/img4797r.jpg
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/2755/img4800h.jpg

timk 12-17-2009 05:08 PM

I don't have a wideband and I drove mine 100km to my tuner. Kept it out of boost though!

dgmorr 12-17-2009 11:32 PM

So I decided to turn this into my install thread. I find a lot of information in many different threads, but I thought it would be helpful to some if a lot of these install questions and info are in one place

TravisR 12-18-2009 12:04 AM


Originally Posted by dgmorr (Post 496998)
EDIT:

Ok, so I decided to create a thread of my install and I will take pics as I go. I'm new to real tuning 'stuff' so I thought other n00bs would like some dummy pics and info in one place to help out. I'm going to be doing the install either tomorrow night, or Saturday morning depending on the answers to the questions below.

The install will be on my 2001 NB


Dec 17 2009
1.
Looks like my ecu will finally be here today based on the tracking number. I don't have my LC-1 yet but i really want to get this thing in! I am mostly stock right now, other than intake and exhaust. Would I be safe installing this thing and just running the base map on the Boundary site without trying to tune?

My turbo parts collection is not quite complete yet, but it'll get there.

2.
I ordered the 3bar MAP sensor, but I am not turbo'd yet. Do I have to do anything different to calibrate this properly, or do I just leave the boost cells on the fuel/ign tables alone? Should I be using a vacuum pump with gauge to set the minimum kpa value or is this already pre-calibrated?

1. I really really recommend a wideband if your going to be doing alot of driving. The maps aren't really made to plug into a narrow band. I drove around on that very map thats in there for a long time, but other people have reported less successful attempts at the same thing. Every motor is different, and that could be the difference between rock stead idle, and extreme vacuum leak idle. Ultra lean cruise, and safe cruise.


2.
Don't worry about converting anything with the 3-bar. The 3 bar reads atmospheric just as well as boost, and plus it will allow you to have more tuning time with your part load cells that will be hard to tune when you do go turbo.

PhantomRoadster 12-18-2009 12:31 AM

I'm in for pics and install info. I'm not going to install mine until after January where I can finally get my inspection done before the ecu install. Good luck...

dgmorr 12-18-2009 12:32 AM

Thanks for the info, Travis.

I do not drive this car daily and it is mostly sitting in my garage for the winter, so I don't plan to do much driving, other than around the block a few times. The LC-1 should be here in a couple weeks.

I take it from your answer to question 2 that I can plug in the MAP sensor straight out of the box and go?

I'm due for an emissions test in January (valid for 2 years) and a bit reluctant to mess with much, but the curiosity is killing me. I may end up installing it to get things running and play with it, and then return it to stock shortly and take it for the e-test.

timk 12-18-2009 12:49 AM

If you want it to be easily removable you can wire the MAP sensor into the Adaptronic plug-in loom so you don't have to butcher your TPS/AFM wiring. This is how I've been running, and it works well. In fact I have the MAP sensor inside the cabin next to the Adaptronic, but you could just as easily run wiring out into the engine bay.

dgmorr 12-18-2009 12:58 AM

Thanks for the tip, I will consider that too. I was planning on using a couple inline splice connectors as my temporary solution.

dgmorr 12-18-2009 08:49 AM

I was able to stop by the post office this morning to pick up my package. Everything looks nice but there are a few wires with broken strands at the base of the soldering point near the PCB. I may have to fix this up a bit so I have no issues later on. It was probably a combination of being mailed in the cold and shifting around. Pics to follow when I get home from work. I should have called in sick today so I can do the install....

What exactly is the 2-pin jumper for on the PCB? Is it to bypass the Adaptronic and use the stock ecu? How does this work if we are using a MAP sensor? Or is it for reading OBII codes and other diagnosis?

Norm 12-18-2009 09:41 AM

I'll be watching for your posts as I have an '02 in which I installed my Adaptronic, but had to swap back to stock until I can find more time to devote to it.

I followed the installation section that Travis sent me (basically Stein's install thread). Couldn't use the square tube bracket idea under dash for the ecu due to an electrical device mounted there. Securely zip-tied the Adaptronic ecu instead, worked fine. MAP sensor section of the manual addressed wiring colors for 89-95 and 99-00. You have to go to the last page of the install manual to find the correct 01-05 wire colors for tying the MAP signal wire into the MAF signal wire. I initially cut the pink MAF wire and connected the red MAP wire, but later respliced (all soldered connections) the pink MAF back in to make it easy to switch back to stock ecu. Now all I have to do to go back to stock is unplug the MAP and plug in the MAF (plus swap ecu connectors and injectors, if not stock). Works fine.

Unfortunately, I'm still stock but hope to get back to that project soon. I'm hoping that all the idle issues with '01+ models will be resolved by that time. Mine were/are a bitch.

Good luck,
Norm

dgmorr 12-18-2009 12:55 PM

Anyone know what I should be using to set the minimum kpa value or is this already pre-calibrated? Is there a common name for a pump like this? Is it the same pump you would use for bleeding brakes?

Just putting a list together of the things I want to pick up on the way home.

I've been reading the transient throttle and idle documents over and over for the past few weeks just to get this stuff to stick in my head. It doesn't sound too hard....in theory.

dgmorr 12-18-2009 06:15 PM

Picked up my USB>serial adapter and cable. I'm going to start doing the install and head to the auto shop to get a vacuum pump.

Looks like the broken strands of wire may be just from being a thicker gauge wire and unable to fit through the PCB hole. If it were up to me, I would have enclosed this in some sort of other case.

dgmorr 12-18-2009 09:05 PM

It's alive! The idle was hunting from about 300-1500 rpm and trying to die. I was revving it a bit, keeping it under 3k rpm and it eventually smoothed out. Once the fans kicked on the idle went up and then the engine died. I've seen a couple other threads about fans and idle issues which I'll read up on later.

1.
Is there any reason why my fuel pump is louder with the adaptronic? I never used to hear it....ever. And I have never had my fans come on at idle, at least not while sitting in my driveway.

2.
As I was revving the engine ever so gently, I was watching the gauge window. I noticed the knock incrementing to a max of 8. Is this normal? Should I be getting any knock at all?

3.
Occasionally while the engine struggled, I would hear popcorn noises coming from the intake. I've also seen a couple other threads on this that went unresolved. Is this a concern?


I've never felt so lost before. It's like reading about a foreign city vs actually traveling there.

Don't worry, I'm going to clean it up.
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/5981/img4802e.jpg

Jfornachon 12-18-2009 09:47 PM

I am planning on doing the same thing as soon as I can get the propper harness for the adaptronic. I will be watching this build thread and writing my own. Good luck and keep us updated.

Have a great day,
Jared

y8s 12-18-2009 11:46 PM


Originally Posted by dgmorr (Post 497869)
It's alive! The idle was hunting from about 300-1500 rpm and trying to die. I was revving it a bit, keeping it under 3k rpm and it eventually smoothed out. Once the fans kicked on the idle went up and then the engine died. I've seen a couple other threads about fans and idle issues which I'll read up on later.

if you haven't already installed the 2.000 firmware and started using the V2.000 WARI, do that and convert over to VE from milliseconds. The reason your idle is like that and it dies is probably fueling. the VE method will allow you to more finely tune idle.


1.
Is there any reason why my fuel pump is louder with the adaptronic? I never used to hear it....ever. And I have never had my fans come on at idle, at least not while sitting in my driveway.
check the output that runs the fans. verify it's set correctly. i haven't noticed any fuel pump issues but my pump is run off the stock ecu. :dunno:



2.
As I was revving the engine ever so gently, I was watching the gauge window. I noticed the knock incrementing to a max of 8. Is this normal? Should I be getting any knock at all?
look at the knock background noise map. it should have a big hump or peak to "ignore" noise that isn't knock. once the car is running pretty well, while sitting still, rev the engine somewhat smoothly to redline and back again while datalogging. take a look at the logs and see how much knock is registered. map that number into the background noise table at the appropriate RPM. some of mine go up to like 60-65 around 4000 rpm.

oh and make sure the ignition closed loop setting for "Knock level to retard 1 degree" is set to a reasonable value (20-40 to start with maybe) so it doesn't pull your timing to ZERO when it sees any knock or noise.


3.
Occasionally while the engine struggled, I would hear popcorn noises coming from the intake. I've also seen a couple other threads on this that went unresolved. Is this a concern?
dont know what that noise is. maybe just bad tuning sounds? :)

good luck!

Matt

ismael_pt 12-19-2009 03:53 AM


Originally Posted by dgmorr (Post 497869)
1.
Is there any reason why my fuel pump is louder with the adaptronic? I never used to hear it....ever. And I have never had my fans come on at idle, at least not while sitting in my driveway.

My fuel pump is doing the same thing. I don't know why.

dgmorr 12-19-2009 09:39 AM

ugh, couldn't get it started this morning. It's about -10* C. I decided to put everything down and do some more reading before frustration and broken parts set in. I upgraded to V2.000 firmware and Wari V2.000. That's the only change I made since last night. I am going to warm it up on the stock ecu and then see if I can get it going after that.

y8s 12-19-2009 10:08 AM

post up a screen capture of your cranking enrichments and then tell me your injector size.

dgmorr 12-19-2009 10:16 AM

This the screen you want to see? I have stock injectors right now. Everything is just the base tune that Boundary provides, except I have it in open loop idle. It wasn't starting in closed or open loop idle this morning. I haven't set it to VE tuning yet either.

http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/8859/cranking.jpg

dgmorr 12-19-2009 11:27 AM

What should my kPa value be roughly, during cranking? While at rest and cranking, they are reading the same. Shouldn't there be some vacuum?

Ignition during cranking is set to 7* BTDC

It starts and runs fine on the stock ecu, so my plugs are still ok. The only change I made from last night was the upgrade to V2.000 which probably wouldn't cause this no start.

y8s 12-19-2009 12:13 PM

MAP during cranking should be closer to 100kPa.

timing 7-15 degrees depending on what works best.

and given your stock injectors, i'd suggest almost doubling your cranking ms below about 30C. so at -10C, use like 130 for example.

cjernigan 12-19-2009 12:31 PM

I'll be following this as well. My adaptronic is plugged in but the car has sat for over 7 months untouched. Maybe i'll get time this weekend to do that.

dgmorr 12-19-2009 12:33 PM


Originally Posted by y8s (Post 498022)
MAP during cranking should be closer to 100kPa.

timing 7-15 degrees depending on what works best.

and given your stock injectors, i'd suggest almost doubling your cranking ms below about 30C. so at -10C, use like 130 for example.


Going to try this right now.

dgmorr 12-19-2009 12:51 PM

Doubled all the settings below 30* and played with the timing between 7-15* and still nothing. A couple stumbles and a big backfire, but no idle

micagreenmachine 12-19-2009 12:51 PM

When you get close, small changes can make a big difference... Going from 132 to 133 for example made a big difference in my starts at a certain temp.

dgmorr 12-19-2009 01:16 PM

I tried setting the enrichment from 120 (in steps of 1) to 150. Nothing really changed other than the smell of raw fuel and a couple massive backfires.

Is there anything else I may want to look for? When I revert to the stock ecu, everything is fine.

While cranking on the Adaptronic, it feels a lot rougher and the whole engine/car shakes and rattles. Is this indicative of anything? Flooding? I do a few cycles of cranking at WOT to clear any possible fuel.

My key light will sometimes come on in the gauge cluster, does this just happen if the engine fails to fire after x amount of revolutions?

So discouraging.... :(

timk 12-19-2009 03:36 PM

Are you sure the MAP sensor is still getting a good reading?

dgmorr 12-19-2009 04:43 PM

I was wondering about the MAP sensor as well. My vacuum pump can go to 2inHG on the gauge, but when at that reading the MAP shows 29kPa

y8s 12-19-2009 05:45 PM

2inHg is almost no vacuum... most cars idle at closer to 16-22 inHg.

you sure you dont mean 20 inHg? cuz that's pretty close to 29kPa.

timk 12-19-2009 05:49 PM


Originally Posted by dgmorr (Post 497869)
Is there any reason why my fuel pump is louder with the adaptronic? I never used to hear it....ever. And I have never had my fans come on at idle, at least not while sitting in my driveway.

You'll find it will be this loud on the stock ECU if you ground F/P on the diagnostics connector.

This is just a guess but I think the stock ECU relies on existing pressure in the fuel system for starting, then fires up the fuel pump after. Grounding F/P will cause the fuel pump to run all the time, like it does on the Adaptronic.

dgmorr 12-19-2009 07:25 PM


Originally Posted by y8s (Post 498141)
2inHg is almost no vacuum... most cars idle at closer to 16-22 inHg.

you sure you dont mean 20 inHg? cuz that's pretty close to 29kPa.

You're correct, the pump gauge shows 20inHg.


Originally Posted by saboteur (Post 498143)
You'll find it will be this loud on the stock ECU if you ground F/P on the diagnostics connector.

This is just a guess but I think the stock ECU relies on existing pressure in the fuel system for starting, then fires up the fuel pump after. Grounding F/P will cause the fuel pump to run all the time, like it does on the Adaptronic.

Makes sense

dgmorr 12-19-2009 07:45 PM

is there something wrong with my ecu?

EDIT: rebooted the laptop a couple times and I was able to reflash the ecu. This is starting to get to me.

http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/2633/failkx.jpg

dgmorr 12-19-2009 08:39 PM

Ok, first set of spark plugs fouled :jerkit: . Not sure why I waited this long to check.

They're soaked in fuel and black. Gonna pick up some new ones this morning when stores open up.

:loser:
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9928/img4812xr.jpg

dgmorr 12-20-2009 03:06 PM

OMG it runs! Got the new plugs in. I cheated and warmed it up on the OEM ecu. Flashed to V2.000 again and all is well. Now I have to wait for my LC-1 to get here to see what is really going on.

How on earth could the old plugs have gotten so bad :giggle:
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/9223/img4815q.jpg


Takes a couple seconds to actually start from cranking

Notes to self:
cranking
MX-5 takes ages to start

additional idle tips
http://www.adaptronic.com.au/forum/i...hp?topic=232.0

dgmorr 12-21-2009 01:03 PM

What do you guys use for your max MAP setting? 5-10psi over the max boost you want to run? I'm planning to run no more than 15psi at the most, should I have my MAP sensor set to a max of 18psi so I can have more usable adjustment range on the tuning tables?

dgmorr 12-21-2009 09:48 PM

So I was in the garage trying to fine tune idle and crank. While I was doing the cranking fuel portion and trying to start it up I had thick grey smoke coming out of the intake filter/header area. I turned it off and went to my room to cry for a bit.

Any idea on what it was? Not familiar with the smell at all. It happened while the engine was trying to fire, but couldn't quite make it and was struggling at 250-300 rpms.

PhantomRoadster 12-21-2009 10:59 PM

Damn... Everyone else's issues scary me from even installing mine. Good luck dgmorr. Hopefully someone else can help.

timk 12-22-2009 01:36 AM


Originally Posted by dgmorr (Post 498935)
So I was in the garage trying to fine tune idle and crank. While I was doing the cranking fuel portion and trying to start it up I had thick grey smoke coming out of the intake filter/header area. I turned it off and went to my room to cry for a bit.

Any idea on what it was? Not familiar with the smell at all. It happened while the engine was trying to fire, but couldn't quite make it and was struggling at 250-300 rpms.

This happened to me as well, exact same scenario. I happened to notice the engine was running backwards (direction of pulley/belt movement reversed), I'm not shitting you.

dgmorr 12-22-2009 08:07 AM


Originally Posted by saboteur (Post 499027)
This happened to me as well, exact same scenario. I happened to notice the engine was running backwards (direction of pulley/belt movement reversed), I'm not shitting you.

You actually saw it move backwards? This was my first guess, but I was sitting in the car so I couldn't see it in time.

micagreenmachine 12-22-2009 01:58 PM

Ha...

I've seen model airplane engines do that, but never a real engine! Wow.

AutoFreak57 12-22-2009 05:25 PM

This has me worried a little about getting Adaptronic, but hopefully it will be more worked out in a couple months when I get mine

PhantomRoadster 12-22-2009 06:07 PM


Originally Posted by saboteur (Post 499027)
This happened to me as well, exact same scenario. I happened to notice the engine was running backwards (direction of pulley/belt movement reversed), I'm not shitting you.

So how did you fix it and did it ruin the engine?

cjernigan 12-22-2009 09:54 PM

If your enrichments are too rich the excess fuel can backfire through the intake. The residual fuel from a unsuccesful crank can be ignited. It shouldn't have hurt anything, though I've seen it blow intercooler plumbing and create some carnage in the process.

timk 12-22-2009 10:12 PM


Originally Posted by PhantomRoadster (Post 499329)
So how did you fix it and did it ruin the engine?

Yeah I saw it happen, I had the hood up ready to burp the cooling system and was just cranking the car through the window (not sitting in the seat).

I just cranked it again a few minutes later after checking everything over. No damage was caused, the only thing that needed replacing was my underwear.

dgmorr 12-23-2009 09:58 AM

The amount of smoke and unfamiliar smell was the alarming part.

I have an open loop idle question. My extra effort for AC value works noticeable. My problem is with the extra effort for electrical load. Any change I make in this box doesn't seem to do anything. Does the Aux In for electrical load need to be active high or low? I've changed the value from 0 through 100 and notice no difference. The settings for AC are very sensitive even in increments of 1.

I haven't looked at the calculation trace for this yet as I am at work now, but thought someone may have noticed this as well.

dgmorr 12-26-2009 09:13 PM

Anyone know if the electrical load digital input trigger needs to be active low or high? When I turn on a few electrical accessories with the trigger set to low, I get nothing on the calculation trace, idle drops and I can't compensate for this (open loop). When I have it on active high, it doesn't seem to do what I expect it to.

The AC digital input set to active low seems to be fine.

Thanks again for the answers to my other thousand questions.

ismael_pt 12-26-2009 11:36 PM


Originally Posted by dgmorr (Post 500515)
Anyone know if the electrical load digital input trigger needs to be active low or high? When I turn on a few electrical accessories with the trigger set to low, I get nothing on the calculation trace, idle drops and I can't compensate for this (open loop). When I have it on active high, it doesn't seem to do what I expect it to.

The AC digital input set to active low seems to be fine.

Thanks again for the answers to my other thousand questions.

The only "extra loads" connected to adaptronic in the pnp harness are PSP and AC. BTW there is no need for other electrical load inputs since the closed loop PID will compensate this (headlights, defrost, etc). I think these are the 3 magical steps to complete a perfect idle setup:

- Give full resolution from 0% DC to 100% DC adjusting the idle screw.

- Setup open loop DC to match closed loop target, the same for AC and PSP extra efforts.

- Turn on the PID for closed loop.

timk 12-28-2009 02:55 AM


Originally Posted by ismael_pt (Post 500534)
- Give full resolution from 0% DC to 100% DC adjusting the idle screw.

Can you elaborate on this? My idle valve doesn't seem to do much below 50%.

Also, you can account for the fans kicking in if you want, by using the logic stuff:
http://www.adaptronic.com.au/forum/i...hp?topic=969.0

ismael_pt 12-28-2009 09:55 AM


Originally Posted by saboteur (Post 500794)
Can you elaborate on this? My idle valve doesn't seem to do much below 50%.

Also, you can account for the fans kicking in if you want, by using the logic stuff:
Logic input

Yes! I forget to say the fans are also wired in the pnp loom.

About the idle screw adjusment:




The open loop section has to be setup first, in order for closed loop to work.

Initial Setup

1) Start the motor and bring it to operating temperature.
2) Locate the motors idle bypass screw. This is normally around the throttle body or idle control valve/solenoid
3) Within WARI, set the max idle value to 0 and idle the motor to 10-20rpm less than the desired idle by screwing the motors idle bypass screw in or out. This step has to be done with no electrical load (lights/thermo fan) and air-con off. Reset the max idle value to 120 within WARI once base idle is set.

Open Loop Idle Control

Open loop idle control is done via a stepper motor or a PWM idle control solenoid(ICS). The specified idle value is given as a range of stepper motor or % of pulse width modulated idle control solenoid (ICS).

This means that at 0 idle, there is no extra air, and at 120 there is full idle air being added. The RPM which the motor is raised to is dependent on the size of the valve obviously. 120 on a small valve might idle the motor up by 3000rpm on a small motor, but only 300rpm on a large motor.

1) Leave the car to cool to the minimum temperature.

2) Start the car, and adjust the corresponding temperatures open loop idle setting within WARI. This sets the idle valve position at each temperature point. Colder temperatures require a higher value. The value is the amount of stepper motor or % of solenoid required. Adjust this value until the RPM reaches the desired idle value for that temperature(around 100rpm higher when cold, fading down to the desired idle at 50deg.

3) Adjust the air temperature correction similarly

4) Once up to temperature, engage the aircon and adjust the extra aircon effort setting until the RPM increases to 100rpm above your idle setting.

6) Adjust the extra effort after cranking value and duration to suit your motor. This setting will increase the RPM after the car starts by leaving the idle high, for the duration specified.

7) Set the electrical load value. This is the value added to the idle value (for that specific temperature) when the electrical load input is triggered. The electrical load input is programmable via any of the digital inputs.

8) Set the low battery level. This is the amount of idle to the target value (for that specific temperature) when the battery voltage is below 12.00v. This should be left at 0 unless specifically needed.

9) Save the ECU file.


Closed Loop Idle Control

Closed loop idle control works via a PID controller and a table of target speeds and corrections. It uses the same solenoid, but instead of having just a fixed value, the stepper or ICS adjusts its own value to match the target.

1) Adjust the target idle speed table, entering the desired idle values per temperature. (around 100rpm higher when cold, fading to desired RPM at round 60 degrees)

2) Set the electrical load value. This is the amount of RPM added to the target RPM (for that specific temperature) when the electrical load input is triggered. The electrical load input is programmable via any of the digital inputs.

3) Set the low battery value. This is the amount of RPM added to the target RPM (for that specific temperature) when the battery voltage is below 12.00v. This should be left at 0rpm unless specifically needed.

4) The control bands dictate the RPM in which the idle control will commence. This value is given as RPM above the target RPM. Set them around the 50-200rpm mark.

5) Neutral timeout is the amount of time the car is in the idle state before closed loop idle will commence. A setting of 1000ms is ideal for most motors.

6 Set the recovery RPM values and efforts if needed. These are the RPM at which extra effort will be given by the idle control.

PID Control

This guide is not a PID tutorial, it is how to set up a PID controller in the field.

1) Set the target RPM values all to 1000. Set the recovery RPM's to 0. Set the elec load and low batt rpm to 0. This saves these values interfering with tuning.

P) Starting at 0, adjust up by 10. This should bring the rpm closer to the target (1000rpm). Adjust in increments of 10 until the RPM is stable, even if it not on 100rpm. Continue to adjust by increments of 10 until the rpm becomes unstable. This can be done by watching both RPM and IDLE values in the F2 page. Once the RPM become unstable and "hunt" back and forth, adjust the P value lower until stable again. It will most likely not be at the desired RPM but it has to be stable to continue. Go as high as you can before it starts to hunt. Load the motor by loading the power steering or aircon to ensure the idle returns to its stable state quickly.

I) Increase this value by increments of 10 until the RPM converges to 1000rpm. Put load on the motor via the power steering or aircon, and make sure the idle returns to the target setting quickly. A higher I value will make it converge quicker, but can cause an overshoot. A setting of 120 is usually good for stepper motors, and 50 for ICV.
D) This value is rarely needed. It will lag the I value, causing a slower convergence. Low values of 0-20 normally are all that is needed, but it is not recommended.

2) Return the values which were adjusted in step 1 to normal.
Use increments of 1 instead of 10, I think this writing is based on the 420b ecu.

dgmorr 12-28-2009 02:43 PM

How do I know if I have too little or too much cranking fuel? Sometimes during cranking the engine seems like it hydro locks and all cranking stops. I attempt to start again, and it seems to be ok. I usually have to go through this cycle.

timk 12-30-2009 07:40 PM


Originally Posted by ismael_pt (Post 500861)

Open loop idle control is done via a stepper motor or a PWM idle control solenoid(ICS). The specified idle value is given as a range of stepper motor or % of pulse width modulated idle control solenoid (ICS).

This means that at 0 idle, there is no extra air, and at 120 there is full idle air being added. The RPM which the motor is raised to is dependent on the size of the valve obviously. 120 on a small valve might idle the motor up by 3000rpm on a small motor, but only 300rpm on a large motor.

I take it the 120 they talk about is for stepper motors and 100 is the max for our IAC valves since it is a PWM percent?

Great post!

PhantomRoadster 01-10-2010 11:41 PM

Looks like I'm having the same issues you had trying to start the car. I'll check my plugs tomorrow. After installing everything I've installed in the past few weeks with no experience, I now feel burned out and helpless.

dgmorr 01-11-2010 07:53 AM

I was able to get it starting in 10*C and up, but now that it's gotten a lot colder out, I haven't been able to get it going. I'm going to be doing my timing belt and associated maintenance items for now until it gets slightly warmer.

TravisR 01-11-2010 09:07 AM


Originally Posted by PhantomRoadster (Post 506594)
Looks like I'm having the same issues you had trying to start the car. I'll check my plugs tomorrow. After installing everything I've installed in the past few weeks with no experience, I now feel burned out and helpless.

Set up a time thats convenient for you and I can work you through it.

Best,
Travis

DecoyOctopus 02-19-2010 12:36 PM

subscribed. good stuff

Stein 02-24-2010 07:28 PM

Subscribed. Congrats on the turbo kit purchase. Let me know if you have any install questions.

dgmorr 02-25-2010 07:10 PM

I guess I will turn this into my Adaptronic and turbo install thread.

So I bought a kit from a member here that originally purchased it off Stein. Took me about an hour to take off the stock manifold and put this in. I've got it in loosely to do a test fit. Seems like the 99-00 cars might be slightly different, but still manageable. Anyone have tips on what order to fully tighten things? ie. manifold, turbo then dp?


My camera battery died while I was about to use it, so these will do for now.
http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/8990/50083135.jpg
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/1601/87554362.jpg

Stein 02-25-2010 09:40 PM

On this setup I had the best luck with,

Mani installed and tight, tighten upper part of DP to turbo as you can't reach all of the bolts otherwise, then drop in, loosely bolt to mani. Slide the lower half of the DP on, hang midpipe, bolt together and tighten with a knee under the pipe to hold it up. Then push the works up with a knee and tighten the two lower turbo bolts then tighten the top ones. Finally snug up the DP joint bolt.

If I didn't, it would rattle against the tunnel.

dgmorr 02-25-2010 10:43 PM

Did you have to relocate your PS hose or bend the hard line going into the pump out of the way?

I so want to finish it all up tonight, I can almost feel it.

I also have nooooo idea how the heatshield is supposed to be mounted.

EDIT: oops, re-read your PM, and saw the part about the PS line.

Stein 02-25-2010 11:01 PM

Forgot this until you mentioned it. I shortend the hard line coming out of the tank by about 1" and reinstalled the hose. THere are two bumps on the hard line. I cut it off right before the second one. Download the Begi installation manual for the Begi S for 1.8's from their site. Pretty step-by-step directions. Even this step was in that manual.

Heatshield uses two existing holes - closest to the shock is a tapped hole and the rear one is just a through bolt and nut. Find the tapped hole and start a bolt and the rear will be apparent. This was on a 99 so I can only assume it's the same for you.


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