Ugh, I sux. I got most of the IC and piping in place, but my driver side inner fender doesn't look so healthy. I guess the 99-00 and 01+ are different enough to make this a bit harder than I thought. Is any of the inner driver side fender structural where the pipe passes through? I pretty much copied the spot that you had it in, but it didn't fit right for me, so I ovalized the opening towards the front.

The wheel rubs the IC pipe on the driver side and I haven't even rolled the car back and forth yet, so it hasn't fully settled. Maybe I'm a bit too ricer and low.

I'm a bit saddened by my crappy measuring, so I'm probably gonna go out and get a crappy flux core welder to patch up the fender hole tomorrow. Sure wish I had better measuring and fabbing skills.

I'm almost embarrassed to post this
http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/3273/img4865w.jpg

I wouldn't weld to it. Get some aluminum sheet, .030" thick or so, trim a cover plate to cover the hole and around the tube with clearance and pop rivet it in place. I did this when I pulled the kit to cover the holes and it looks good. The bare aluminum doesn't really look out of place and it will conform to the curves.

Thanks. I think I will end up using rivets and some sort of adhesive after doing a bit more reading. I think I need to move it forward about 2", which will involve more cutting :(

Is this going to cause any structural weakening?

Nope, not out there. You are outside of the rail. You will have to move it forward to clear the tire. Mine wouldn't rub on full lock/full compression at 13R/12.5F ride height.

Alright, I was able to enlarge the hole a bit more :eek5: and get the IC pipe out of the tire's way.

Today I am going to tap the pan. I have no idea how n00bs do this. I took all the splash guards and bumper off and the oil pan position is burried in there!

Anyone got a quick answer...

Should I tap for one of these, or use a threaded fitting for both ends? I've used this on one of my previous cars, but I know everyone uses those baller AN fittings...which are not easy to find around here.

http://us1.webpublications.com.au/st...6/2692_3lo.jpg

/\ That's what I used. You can get at it. It just takes some work. I don't recall if I removed my AC from the bracket or not. Don't take the lines loose if you do.

Did you download the manual that I told you to? It covers this.

http://www.bellengineering.net/templ...es%205_1.1.pdf

Yup, I've read both the FM and Begi manual a few times. It's very easy in my head, but doing it is another story.

Spent an hour at a couple hardware stores and cannot find an NPT tap. All the real Tool shops are closed on the weekends.

NPT taps are a little hard to find at regular stores. I ended up ordering one online, but I'm not in the middle of the install either

I found a tool shop in the ghettos about 45 minutes from my place that had the tap in stock and open Sunday. I went there as soon as it opened and got it. Couldn't find a 37/64 bit, so I used a 9/16. It wasn't a problem but a 37/64 would probably be easier to tap. Everything on the hot side is done but the oil feed and coolant hookups. Just have to connect those and connect the cold side of the IC piping and it'll be ready to start! I'll take some pics tomorrow as I'm pretty beat now. Worked on it since noon today.

I was able to hook all of the hot side up and fire it up today. Is it normal for any oil to come out of the compressor side? I have a little bit coming through compressor outlet...this is without the cam cover PCV hose connected. Is this turbo on it's way out? There is very little to no shaft play and is said to have around 6k miles on it.

I don't have the cold side of the IC done yet, so I just took a slow drive around to make sure I have no leaks - all good!

I also have what sounds like an exhaust leak, but only while the engine is still cold. Is this just something to do with the thinner metal of my manifold vs the stock heavy header? When warmed up it sounds smooth and I don't get that exhaust leak crackle.

Let me be the first to say that having an FM 2.5" turbo exhaust with no turbo is completely ricer. The volume of the exhaust is sooooo much better now.

Here's a quick pic

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/1015/img4869aq.jpg

Looks good. Glad that you have gotten it installed. Hope the oil leak issue gets worked out.

Have a great day,
Jared

Thanks, I don't think it's too major, just a bit more than I was expecting, but no worries.

I just took it out for a quick spin around the block all hooked up. It feels so fast to me now. I didn't take it over 3500 rpm and only gave it 25% throttle and it moves well! So pleased!

Stein, the DV that you used, did it make a fluttering noise or was it just a simple woosh? I'll have to double check that it's opening up as I hear a lot of fluttering.

DV? If you mean BOV, never, ever a flutter. Just a nice psssshhh when you let off. It never gave me a lick of trouble. If you are getting fluttering, it probably isn't opening right and you are getting compressor surge. But, I was always really pleased with how it worked. I wouldn't change springs or spacers, either. You might want to unscrew it and clean and lightly oil, but the spring that is in there worked perfectly at wastegate pressure (IIRC, 7 psi) and at 10 psi on the MBC.

I wasn't sure if it was a DV or BOV :giggle:. Looks like the DV that was on my Saab. I'll check it all over tomorrow and make adjustments. I'm all sore from working on the car for 10 hours.

Thanks for all the help guys :wavey:

OOps, I think I plugged the BOV vac line in to a port before the throttle body. I'll get to that in the morning :)

Yeah, that should do it. I had mine on the previously capped port just after the TB on the top of the IM.

What causes the revs to hang when I let go of the gas? I gave it about 50% to 5k rpm and when I clutched in the revs were hanging at about 6k for 15-20 seconds.

The install was easy, now comes the hard part :sad2:

Ugh, I am so lost. I understand most of the theory, but actually doing it all is a whole other world.

How did you guys get your base tunes? Did you just drive it around and let the ECU rapid learn? Even under boost?

I have the fuel map set pretty high above 100kpa but the car falls flat on its face when exceeding 4k rpm. Everything builds nicely up to that point and then all of a sudden it feels like the brakes are slammed.

btw, I can leave the wastegate hose disconnected since the spring is only 7lbs correct? I should get out there and test the wg spring with my compressor just to make sure it is 7lbs or so. It certainly sounds like a hell of a lot more, but my data logs say i'm maxing at only 138kpa.

make sure your control authority minimum is low enough (10-15) and that your base idle value for open loop is only about 10% higher than your normally logged closed loop values. you can put the car into open loop by zeroing out the PID values on the lower left and fiddle with the open loop table until it seems close.

are you running any "dashpot" (upper right)? that could make the rpm hang like that too.

check your "Power Cut" tab for any values that are close to that RPM. Check your overboost is set higher than your WG can.

make sure you dont have a flat shift/launch control enabled.

are you using VE for the fuel map? it's hard to guess at fuel values without getting close to those cells.

I have my PnP board set so that the stock ecu handles the idle control. I also don't know what functions are handed back to the factory ecu.

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/5522/img4859q.jpg

My power cut is set to 167kpa which is about 9.5psi. I haven't seen higher than 138kpa in the logs. I'm afraid to keep trying it to get a good log.

I am using VE for the fuel map.

There's no way I can run less boost than the wastegate spring is there? I don't have a threaded wastegate rod.