Travis has been amazing at taking time to answer my questions and retarded self but you can only take a sales guy's word so far.

How well does the auto system work to get a good power tune over the base maps.

more of a general tuning question. Dallas gas is 93oc with upto 10% ethanol, if i get gas in Oklahoma they only sell up to 91oc. what would i do? would i have to have a different map for every gas types or are they close enough to not have to worry about blowing up at 10psi (supercharger)

who is near Dallas and can help me out if i get one cuz i'm teh (and pay with beer)

 

Travis isn't a salesman, just an enthusiast. He's spent at least three hours on the phone with me getting mine going as I was the first to try it. Always willing to help. Heck, he sent me second unit with no payment or deposit a week ago just to try to see if the issue I was having was ECU related. (It wasn't, so I returned it this week. He did find the problem in my ECU file, though, over the phone.)

There are a couple running now in the US. I still have some small issues but it is a capable ECU and the only thing in the price range that is PnP. Other than that you are looking at MegaSquirt for $700 (or less if you build) and several mods that you have to make or Hydra for $2K.

Autotune works pretty good to get a base tune and then I hand smoothed from there. It will make changes pretty quickly. I had really nothing for a base map to start and autotuned in about an hour on Rapid Learn and a Day or two of regular driving in Slow Converge. Even when I swapped stock injectors to 600's I made a gross across the board adjustment percentage and autotuned again. It works well.

If you want to do two maps, there is room in the unit to store two. Otherwise, if you need more the ECU file is only 8K and uploads in about 30 seconds.

I can't answer your question if 93/10% vs 91 is enough to justify a second map.

 

not really if it justifies a new map but if 93/10% vs 91 at the track will hurt my car. 02 motor with mp62 10psi (11psi peak 6-7k)

 

Agreed on the autotune feature, it works, at least for fuel. I have only used the rapid tune so far, and then hand-smoothed it from there. The 3-D map display in WARI makes the smoothing process visually intuitive so it is pretty easy to do. Idle you will still have to tune by hand but that is no big deal IMO.

For the 10% ethanol issue... you could tune for non-ethanol fuel, then have a second map like Stein said and switch back and forth, either with a PC or a toggle switch wired to an input. There is also a master fuel trim, so when you filled up with fuel/ethanol blend, you could add a global percent increase to the fuel table easily.

I have not tried the spark map autotune yet so cannot speak to that personally.

I am happy with it and would buy it again. The only thing I did not like was the board-based adapter harness but I think they are working on a new version, sans the board.

 

You might want to post that specific question on one of the Insert BS Here board or General Miata Chat board. That isn't Adaptronic related specifically and you will get more views there from those that can answer that question. Many of the knowledgeable folk won't see it here.

 

^^ Good point

 

How are we doing with the CEL? On, off?

 

Mine is off. I have not checked for codes though.

 

Even with codes that I know I have, I've not seen the CEL illuminate.

 

with my custom fancy harness, I dont have any CEL. but I've only driven about 3 miles.

 

Same here.

 

I'd love to hear more about how well the ignition auto tuning works. And I don't mean how it does it, I mean how well it does.

 

Nobody on this forum has tried it yet as far as I know.

 

FYI, any OK station that sells fuel with ethanol it has to have a sticker on the pump stating so by state law.

 

they do, in Texas the highest grade is 93/10% and in Oklahoma (we go to hallett raceway a few times a year) the highest you can get is 91oc so if i tranel to a out of state trace how bad can i hurt my motor because of different fuels

 

Ideally, you should adjust the timing and the boost accordingly when you change octane levels; as to how much, there are too many variables to calculate IMO. Careful testing would help, as well as the use of Evans Coolant. Evans is more effective at removing heat that a traditional water/antifreeze mix. The website is not the best, but the stuff is proven and has been around for nearly 20 years now, Evans Cooling Systems - High Performance Engine Cooling and Power Production.. If you have any questions, I have been using this stuff for 5 years now on a non-turbo'ed car and truck with no issues.