Dunno, but should be whatever the latest and greatest is when I last reflashed in March to fix the first MAP issue. I can check tomorrow.

I had a similar intermittent problem which I thought was PC pro related at the time. Turned out to be the egr valve acting up. I blocked it off and no problems since. If you still have yours unplug it next time it acts up.


http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...h_MOV06125.jpg

My EGR is blocked off

Mine is also.

OK I just installed the new Walbro 255HP fuel pump. It was a pretty easy installation.

At any rate I idled the car in the driveway, running the a/c, top down, revving the engine, to get the coolant temperature up. It got up to about 210-215 depending on which gauge I believe.

I did get it to do the rough running thing again, though it was at a higher temperature than before, maybe 5-10F higher. But, it cleared up faster, and with some tweaking of the 2500-3000 rpm fuel table cells I got it to go away completely. However I am far from certain that the problem is fixed. I need to take it for a drive on a hot afternoon for more testing.

While I had the fuel pump assembly out of the tank I tested the fuel pressure regulator using a compressed air source. It was completely closed up to about 60-65 psi, then opened up, just like it should. So that is not the problem.

I think it will be Monday before I hear back from them, I'll post up as soon as I do.

I thought I had mine licked today. Drove for about 30 minuts tuning cruise cells. All of a sudden it died and from then on it was a bitch to keep running. I know it is not strictly temp, as I was watching my very first warmup of the day. It went to 110C before the thermostat opened, then dropped to the normal 100C. It convinced me that I need to change the thermostat as it must be getting sticky. Not tied to the problem, but it shows that it isn't strictly temp related as I drove die free for 30 minutes after the temp spike.

I also did some large scale tuning and hit the 2500-3000 ranges hard as well. I did get it to stop dieing with a lot of effort on tuning idle cells but I'm sure it is just masking the problem.

I didn't get to do the full tuning cycle that I linked earlier as I didn't know where the idle air tuning screw was.:noob: I have an autocross tomorrow so hopefully can get back on it tomorrow afternoon/evening.

Is your problem only around idle? Have you tried cleaning the IAC valve and the air screw port?

Are you guys using the correct wari software version with the correct flash? They come in pairs, and if you don't use same with same it can cause instability. To my knowledge you guys are the only 2 with the problem thats this severe. It has to be something that has just gone overlooked, but I swept the software settings looking for anything and couldn't find a single mis-step.

OK I did not know about the pairing. So based on this Adaptronic page we should be using V1.0N firmware, Flashit V1.0, and WARI V1.11?

The thing I do not get though is if they are paired, how do we try out the beta releases like this one of WARI if there is not a corresponding beta of the firmware?

Right now I am using the beta version of WARI linked to above, and using the firmware supplied with the base maps Travis sent out about a month ago.

If you goto Help on the wari panel and then goto about. That window that pops up will tell you what software you have and what flash to use with it. The newest version on that page you referenced uses V1.12 wari and V1.0O flash.

I like the new Wari by the way. Pretty nice setup...

OK then I'll try checking WARI and flashing the corresponding firmware. I'll do that this morning and report back if I have problems. It may take a day or two to be sure I do not have the same problem again since the weather is going to be cooler here for the next couple of days.

Yes the new WARI is better. The active cell locator feature on the tuning table is a big help.

UPDATE: OK I loaded firmware V1.0O (using Flashit V1.0) and am running WARI V1.12. I verified the firmware version required under 'about' just like you stated above.

That new Walbro is loud during the initial key on 3 second prime. When I turned the key on this morning I thought "WTF is that?!" :giggle:

those guys need to start naming their releases with version numbers.

i've got like 3 wari.exe files and fuck me if i know what version they are.

Agreed, lol. I think I named the one I sent out in the packet. Drives me nuts.

I can't wait to get mine in... those big walbro's remind me of the space shuttle hydrogen pumps. 3...2...1... ignition :giggle:

OK problem still not fixed. When the temperatures climbed to about 205-210 on the way home (a/c running, cruise speed, light to moderate throttle) it happened again. So matching the firmware to WARI and the new pump did not cure it. This time though I noticed that the AFRs did not appear to be going lean like they did before, which is interesting.

On a positive note I have the EBC working now.

I did notice that VVT was enabled on trigger 2. That should not be checked. Rob is on the case now, so we'll see what he comes up with.

In for EBC install thread with pics!

Rob needs logs of this happening. Anyone by chance logging when any of this occured?

I'm sure I do but all logs were when I was tuning and changing fuel cells so might be bad data.