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Old 05-10-2009, 10:06 PM   #1
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Default F/IC CAL Files

I've noticed the F/IC hasn't really taken off so to speak so I feel then best way to get support going is to create a thread with some cal files listed.

Car Configuration:
1999 1.8L 10AE
FM Voodoo II 2560 Turbo with intercooler
Stock Injectors
6psi
FM 2.5" Mid Pipe no CAT
Racing Beat Duals

FIC:
MAF not connected
02 Connected with correct resistor
Injectors and Timing Connected
z110.hex slave firmware (confirmed by AEM for 99+ cars)

Only basic tuning

Edit: Did some more tweaking to get rid of a bog off the line. See the file labled R2
Attached Files
File Type: zip Miata Working 5-10-09.zip (17.1 KB, 362 views)
File Type: zip Miata Working 5-10-09 Leaned out low RPM R2.zip (18.6 KB, 256 views)

Last edited by kingofl337; 05-15-2009 at 04:41 PM.
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:50 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingofl337 View Post
I've noticed the F/IC hasn't really taken off so to speak so I feel then best way to get support going is to create a thread with some cal files listed.

Car Configuration:
1999 1.8L 10AE
FM Voodoo II 2560 Turbo with intercooler
Stock Injectors
6psi
FM 2.5" Mid Pipe no CAT
Racing Beat Duals

FIC:
MAF not connected
02 Connected with correct resistor
Injectors and Timing Connected
z110.hex slave firmware (confirmed by AEM for 99+ cars)

Only basic tuning

Edit: Did some more tweaking to get rid of a bog off the line. See the file labled R2
how come you never hooked up for maf and is there a need to clamp it on the 99 model i have a 99 miata and i just got my aem fic. also what resistor did you use for your o2 clam this info will save me a lot of time.
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Old 05-20-2009, 10:31 PM   #3
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I used a 1k for the 02 sensor but recently found out it should be 10k. I never hooked up the MAF because it just added another variable. The Miata doesn't need a MAF clamp for boost levels under 12-14psi. I wouldn't recommend running the FIC for boost levels over that anyways.
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Old 05-20-2009, 10:35 PM   #4
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thanks the fic is in and working but i have to wait to be able to start it. im going to try your map and then drop the car off to my boy junior at the shop ct for tuning he is going to make sure it wil be safe for 20psi on pump but im going to go by what he says. he is an amazing tuning well know in the Subaru world of things but know his ****. so ill keep posted on what happens
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Old 06-17-2009, 03:57 PM   #5
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Im being told that the 110.hex is the wrong firmware for 03 miatas? Currently asking AEM for some freaking documentation so I can figure out what im suppose to be using.

OK I was Corrected 110.hex is correct

Any way Im having a world of problems getting the settings right for my 550cc injectors. The reaction time plays a huge role in drive ability. People with stock injectors may not notice it as much.

RC injectors have a 1.4ms reaction time @ 13.3v This setting didnt work well in the AEM.

Last edited by Mikeymx5; 06-26-2009 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 07-10-2009, 01:36 AM   #6
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Default 03 Miata 550cc Cal File

OK here is My cal file, its not yet done and has not been tested above 5-6psi. The Map does extends to 10psi but it is only a calculated map.

2003 Miata LS 1.8 VVT
RC 550cc injectors (1.4ms IRT)
Begi S2 T2554 turbo with intercooler 1
FM 2.75" Duals with High Flow Cat
Manual Boost control not installed
LC-1 Wide band


Key settings:
IRT = 607.5 (Im still experimenting to get this perfect but gave up for the sake of completing a working map)
Factory Injector IRT Table of a 99 miata
Battery Offset
Voltage (V)---Pulse (uS)
6 ---------- 2550
7 ---------- 2260
8 ---------- 1700
9 ---------- 1320
10 ---------- 1070
11 ---------- 880
12 ---------- 740
13 ---------- 610
14 ---------- 470
15 ---------- 390
16 ---------- 290
MAF: - Not connected to AEM, (got enough crap to worry about without messing with this additional setting)
O2:
Set to MAP/Offset -
Period = 100ms
Start delay = 10sec ( dont want the AEM to make adjustments before the 02 is warm)
For AFR table these settings worked for me
14.1 = 0
13.5 = -.111
12.5 = -.13
12.0 = -.14
Like I said Im still working on this map and my experience has shown that once my boost controller is installed I have to re tune alot of the lower map areas, so use at your own risk. If you are a tuner and want to just put my map in you car and drive on it, Ill say a prayer for you because its in Gods hands, not mine.

Problems: Because no map is perfect
Cruise: I occasionally get an unsmooth cruise feel - out of boost, I think that it has to do with the IRT setting, but it is minor and doesn't effect the drive ability of the car. Most people probably wouldn't notice it but it annoys me, as I want the car to feel stock.

Currently my car goes into open loop at 5000rpm, and the ECU will add 11% fuel causing the car to run 11.1 while in open loop above 5K. I was waiting for the ECU to reset but it hasn't, I'll unplug the Battery later to reset it and see if it returns. I think that this just got stuck this way from all the tuning that I have done and not resetting the ECUs fuel trims.
Attached Files
File Type: zip Miata no maf 550cc071609.zip (20.5 KB, 201 views)

Last edited by Mikeymx5; 07-16-2009 at 10:37 PM. Reason: Added factory IRT table, Edit 2 added updated map.
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Old 07-12-2009, 02:07 PM   #7
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My map is super lean with the boost controller installed, so I dont suggest the map for anything other than setting up vacuum areas. Now with the boost controller installed I will start making a boost map
Uploaded an updated map, does 11psi fine, little rich at 5-6psi, will fix that after some logging.

Update: 7-24-09

I changed the 02 setup after fighting the offset values to give the correct closed loop AFR. This just wasnt working for me and would cause my long term fuel trim to go wackey. So I made a change to the 02 map based on how the FM 02 clamp works.

Use this settings for the 02 map.
  • Set the map to Voltage mode, with High level drive checked.
  • At idle find set the 02 map to .35v and watch the fuel trims, if the car starts to go rich raise the value, and if it starts to go lean which it shouldn't lower the value. Do this until you find the dead zone which the ECO will not try to trim the fuel.
  • I ended up with .43v where the ECU did not adjust fuel trims.
  • No take this value and fill in the map above 14.7.
  • Reset the battery to erase all your fuel trims and tune out any rich and or lean areas.

I will post my map after I have a few more miles to make sure that this doesnt cause any long term problems.

Last edited by Mikeymx5; 07-23-2009 at 10:58 AM.
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Old 12-08-2009, 03:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeymx5 View Post
My map is super lean with the boost controller installed, so I dont suggest the map for anything other than setting up vacuum areas. Now with the boost controller installed I will start making a boost map
Uploaded an updated map, does 11psi fine, little rich at 5-6psi, will fix that after some logging.

Update: 7-24-09

I changed the 02 setup after fighting the offset values to give the correct closed loop AFR. This just wasnt working for me and would cause my long term fuel trim to go wackey. So I made a change to the 02 map based on how the FM 02 clamp works.

Use this settings for the 02 map.
  • Set the map to Voltage mode, with High level drive checked.
  • At idle find set the 02 map to .35v and watch the fuel trims, if the car starts to go rich raise the value, and if it starts to go lean which it shouldn't lower the value. Do this until you find the dead zone which the ECO will not try to trim the fuel.
  • I ended up with .43v where the ECU did not adjust fuel trims.
  • No take this value and fill in the map above 14.7.
  • Reset the battery to erase all your fuel trims and tune out any rich and or lean areas.

I will post my map after I have a few more miles to make sure that this doesnt cause any long term problems.
This is wrong... I had a wacky 02 sensor that would not give correct data, even though it appeared that it was working fine. After data logging from a cold start i found that my 02 would take up to 10 minutes to come on line properly and would sometimes quit. Couldnt tell what was wrong with it and it was a little over a year old so I never suspected it instead i was blaming the FIC. After replacing it I found that the value was closer to what a user had in a previous post something like .021 with out high level drive checked.

I also changed my IRT back to the default to trouble shoot a problem with uneven power and fuel economy. This was also related to the intermittent o2. It appears that it doesnt matter what IRT you have as long as you are close enough, but having the IRT closer to 600 will make your maps more linear and easier to tune in the vacuum area.

I will post my new map up soon its much more complete then the rough maps I posted before. Next I will be looking into emulating the MAF so that i can use an external blow off.
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:56 PM   #9
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Default Latest Cal file posting as backup

Here is my latest cal file

The car for the most part is running great but I am still not getting the fuel mileage that i should be.

I have the IRT at 500.... Im going back to the drawling board to redo the cal file with a higher IRT not that I figured out my previous problem was a faulty 02 sensor.

Im hoping that I can find my missing MPG.
Attached Files
File Type: zip Miata 11dec90.zip (18.6 KB, 252 views)
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Old 07-09-2010, 11:41 PM   #10
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Hey so im currently turbo charging my 94 miata with similar setup, and using the
FIC, just wondering if you have updated your file, and how are the AFR's in boost? i plan on using your cal file :-)
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Old 07-12-2010, 06:03 PM   #11
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Even though a 94 has 1.8l both setups would be completely different. I couldnt guarantee that my maps would work at all. The map that I posted on the forums is a rough draft at best. I will probably upload my final map before the FIC is sold, but I wouldnt suggest using it for anything other than initial setup of settings.

Also just to mention a funny little phrase that was said to me the other day, "no two BEGI kits sold the same day are similar." Meaning you can use one to from one setup on another car with the same setup.

As for a 94 you dont have obd2 so you really should use the MS pnp you would be much happier!
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