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It's pretty much the same dimension, but the inlet is outside adjacent to the welded mount on the operating right side. Just enough for the hose and clamp, not much else.
i can move the oil cooler down an inch or so that would clear the hose neck then I could make the oil cooler bracket shorter so that it stops with the end of the cooler and has 3 points of contact instead of 4? It would still be sealed all the way around just only bolted in 3 of the 4 corners. What do you think
If you move the oil rad lower, it might collide with the front roll bar. Especially when running an oversize one. It really is tight down there. I had to redrill the brackets that hold my alloy rad in order to bring the lower part of the rad a bit more to the front and to increase clearance to the roll bar
I'm aware of this. I have the tubular roll bar that I will be test fitting with. I'm going to make it as low as possible while still clearing the roll bar so I can remedy the top clearance for psyberoptix csf radiator.
I steered you to the single volvo fan because if you made a double 12" fan shroud you'd be going against at least two other established solutions for the same stupid ****. The single volvo with no shroud will probably be the hot ticket for street/track guys that want to keep AC.
Got the fan today and will be cutting it out after work today. As far as compatibility with the crossflow radiator ill cut the top right off the oil cooler bracket for hose clearance and run 3pts of contact or i will make a new fancy bracket to capture all the mounting points. You decide.
Got pricing on the fan shroud today and we are looking at $130ea if we order 5 or $115ea if we order 10 and $108ea if we order 15. You would have to source your own fan and wiring. The shroud will come with bulb seal to seal the fan portion of the shroud to the radiator to maximize efficiency. For another 175 I can source and ship the fan and wiring as well.
As far as the oil cooler mounting I'll be doing this in the near future once I get myself an oil cooler to verify fitment.
Last edited by matrussell122; 12-01-2017 at 01:43 PM.
Reason: Updated pricing
Trying to make up my mind on wiring I have 3 options
1. Dual relay for just hi/low
2. Same as above with soft start to not go past 22a draw ever
3. Variable speed based.. rpm based off water temp maxing at 22a on hi
So got a wiring plan. Going to do option 3. It costs a bit more but is by far the best way to control the fan. The controller that ill order to test controls the fans 1-100% power with a soft start feature so there should be little to no idle dip at all which will be nice for the people that arnt able to run idle control. Total price for me with the variable fan control puts me right at $400 which is higher than anything on the market but will probably be one of the most functional.
I do heaps of this oil cooler location for customers. had great success so far. Quality hose and high flow -10 fittings and it hasnt caused us any issues at all.
Good to know it fits there. I should have an oil cooler after the new year to start fitting on the radiator. Ill probably have the fittings come out towards the center with a -10 180 fitting but well see how much space is left once it's all mounted in the car. Also working on a replacement undertray that seals that area up.
also if anyone else has any good ideas on formed parts they want let me know and I can draw something up.
Fan is in. Had to trim for the sway bar but lots of extra material on the fan. Currently there is about 1/4'' clearance. I have a variable fan speed controller with soft start so amp draw is a minimum while running.
Last edited by matrussell122; 12-11-2017 at 10:29 PM.
This controller but i will just tap into the temp sensor wire for a signal instead of the probe that comes with the controller. The signal for the controller is 1-4000ohms according to derale's tech department.
11-21-2017, 03:06 PM
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