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Zossy, I did sell it. Just thought I would post up pics of the last time I took it out. I am going to Winton next weekend. And the subbie nats are on up there in a month or so. Not sure if I can get there yet. Would be good to take the WRX up.
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Originally Posted by lightyear
(Post 1129574)
Zossy, I did sell it. Just thought I would post up pics of the last time I took it out. I am going to Winton next weekend. And the subbie nats are on up there in a month or so. Not sure if I can get there yet. Would be good to take the WRX up.
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I did a 1:50.1 at Phillip Island in the 1.8 MX5. And my first run at Phillip Island with the WRX not set up was a 1:52.2, and never having driven anything other than MX5's it was a learning curve. And I only did 7 laps as I had some trouble with the intercooler pipes. I am sure it would do around a 1:48 now.
First proper track day with the WRX setup at Sandown was a 1:24.4, but the brake pads were shit. So only did 20 laps. Best I did in the 1.8 MX5 was a 1:27. And the best time in my old 1.6 turbo MX5 at Sandown was 1:24 as well. And Sandown is a hp track. I think the WRX isn't as slow around corners as most MX5 people think. Went over the data, and the corner speed minimums are pretty close. Once I get the WRX dialled in and get used to driving it, it will easily be faster at all tracks. 1.8 MX5 had 90+rwkw's. 1.6 turbo had 120rwkw's. WRX has about 150awkw's. |
7 Attachment(s)
So I did exactly this over the last couple days, with an insulating foam the doesn't melt from paint or adhesives. Forum member 99Racer (my dad) can chime in on what melts and doesn't melt.
Last fall I built a splitter for my DD while AuoX'ing it, though never got time to finish more than the basic plywood shape before the season ended. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399666206 I needed to bridge the gap between the splitter and the plywood, original design was vertical sheet metal as many have done. Then expanding foam was suggested, but ended up deciding on rigid insulation foam 1-1/2" thick. I cut two pieces to about the contour of the bumper using a jig saw, which gave a surprisingly smooth finish. I glued them together using PL. IF you do this, take of the metal foil on the glue side of the foam, it would have made shaping it so much easier. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399666206 I set the upper one back to give the spacer a bit of a rake, may eventually shape it into a curve. Here it is cut, I cut it using a hack saw blade (no handle) and a body file to smooth it out somewhat (it's still not smooth). https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399666206 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399666206 The first AutoX of the season is this Saturday so for now, the whole assembly just received a shot of flat black spray and was put on. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399666206 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399666206 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399666206 Future play are to cover the plywood and foam in fibreglass to have a nicer smooth finish. |
IF you plan fiberglass with polyester resin (cheaper than epoxy) to add strength over the shaped foam (plug), then urethane based foam board (polyisocyanurate) is best. Lowes Canada sells foil wrapped construction insulation board in many thicknesses. What was used retails here for about $35 for 4'x8' x 1.5". Polyisocyanurate at Lowe's Canada
Something similar is likely available in other building supplies… HD racing here in Canada however only seems to sell styrene based material. Polyester resin will eat "styrene" based foam. If you must use a styrene plastic, protecting it from the polyester resin is necessary. Options include: plastic food wrap, drywall plaster (mud), body filler, etc. Test the foam and its covering first or risk losing the shape of your foam based plug. M.Adamovits and I have been racing together for some 14 years (first karts and now cars). And yes, the 99 Racer and the silver #51 in Mikes signature line are the same car… we endurance raced it as a team for 2 years. Road racing is hold for now as I build up a new business. |
Originally Posted by 99Racer
(Post 1129827)
IF you plan fiberglass with polyester resin (cheaper than epoxy) to add strength over the shaped foam (plug), then urethane based foam board (polyisocyanurate) is best. Lowes Canada sells foil wrapped construction insulation board in many thicknesses. What was used retails here for about $35 for 4'x8' x 1.5". Polyisocyanurate at Lowe's Canada
Something similar is likely available in other building supplies… HD racing here in Canada however only seems to sell styrene based material. Polyester resin will eat "styrene" based foam. If you must use a styrene plastic, protecting it from the polyester resin is necessary. Options include: plastic food wrap, drywall plaster (mud), body filler, etc. Test the foam and its covering first or risk losing the shape of your foam based plug. M.Adamovits and I have been racing together for some 14 years (first karts and now cars). And yes, the 99 Racer and the silver #51 in Mikes signature line are the same car… we endurance raced it as a team for 2 years. Road racing is hold for now as I build up a new business. |
One of our local boat shops sells West System Epoxy for ~$105 for a gallon kit (1 gallon epoxy, 1 qt hardener). A gallon of laminating epoxy goes a LONG way.
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14 Attachment(s)
I had a Car of Tomorrow wing fall in my lap and quickly threw some front end stuff together to balance it out.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405030721 NASCAR CoT wing Flyin Miata mounts Blackbird Fabworx endplates DiY undertray/splitter GarageVary copy front lip CarbonTrix extractor vent in spare hood Dollars spent: ~800 including shipping, paint, jigsaw blades, etc Hours spent: 4-5 How effective: 2(because I havent tried higher wing angles) 0=slower, 1, no improvement, 2 =slightly better,3= big improvement Materials used: 1/4" HDPE, angle aluminum, carbon fiber. Bracket location: Radiator support and subframe, rear quarter panels. Tracks tested on: Mid Ohio Sports Car Course, multiple autocrosses. Race/TT class built for: DE's, casual TTD. The 'splitter' slides into the flange on the underside of the lip. I originally cut this piece to fit perfectly in an authentic GV piece. I've since destroyed the real lip and this piece doesn't fit as well in the eBay copy. It pushes the outer corners of the lip out, effectively covering a smidge more tire by straitening the lip. The black 1/8" aluminum pieces nut and bolt to the angle aluminum coming down from the radiator support, sandwiching the undertray material. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405030721 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405030721 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405030721 The hood vent is CarbonTrix, painted Montego and simply riveted onto a spare gutted hood. Gutting the hood causes it to flap around a bit. It stays pressed down up to 65-70mph, but above that begins to lift off the back of the headlights covers a bit. I believe some aerocatches are in my future to solve this issue. I may also just try it on my original hood and leave the webbing in place. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405030721 Out back its pretty much standard issue meta-Miata aero: CoT wing on FM mounts and some of Moti's endplates. Apparently I lucked out, my wing came with a carbon L shaped gurney, which gives me two gurney height options: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405030721 I didn't expect much from the front end stuff, so ran the wing -1° with no gurney. Car was loose and I didn't have an allen set with me(never needed it before lol) so I couldn't play with it at all. Next chance is ~a month away, same track, same tires, we'll see what a few more degrees does. I'll take the gurney flap too. |
I'd consider changing that aluminum mount, I had square aluminum tubing of about the same wall thickness mounted to the frame rail above that rad mount taby thing you're bolted to and just from hitting cones and bottoming out I managed to bend the aluminum tube enough that it bent that mouting tab to the point where it was touching the radiator core and bent some of the fins. I think a couple more auto-x's like that and I would have had a very bad day, so a few trips on the rally line could probably put that aluminum angle through the radiator. You can bolt/screw/weld it to the outside of the frame rail and be clear of everything, as an added bonus the outside of the frame rail is more or less perfectly vertical, unlike the front.
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Made up a new aero package on Brendan's car. Still needs a couple more days work but ran out of time.
Should have seen the massive rooster tail in the wet morning session. http://s2.postimg.org/tgwdju0nd/image.jpg how to take a screen shot |
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That wing is epic! What was the balance like with the new floor? Any improvement?
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Still a work in progress. The flat floor has not yet made any noticeable difference. Once it is fully finished, and we get some time to make adjustments, there should be some noticeable difference. The wing is actually triple element, but couldn't find the bolts for the third element. Next time out is Winton, so we can crank on a ton of downforce.
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8 Attachment(s)
throw my hat into the ring
http://begoodphotography.smugmug.com...IMG_0347-M.jpg https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405342875 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405342875 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405342875 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405342875 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405342875 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405342875 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405342875 should finish it up, and set her down tonight. |
Originally Posted by OGRacing
(Post 1147873)
throw my hat into the ring
should finish it up, and set her down tonight. |
I am now in a position to start building a Crusher front and undertray for the blue beast. But I am limited to not going outside the outer edge of the existing bodywork of the nose with front aero, which means I can't actually run a splitter with the Crusher nose.
With that in mind, I see that some have run the undertray level with the bottom of the flat front, and others (I think including Emilio) have run the flat front lower than the undertray, creating a lip on the flat front running under the bottom surface of the undertray. Which is better, and if a lip is better, how much of a lip is ideal? |
Originally Posted by zossy1
(Post 1148111)
I am now in a position to start building a Crusher front and undertray for the blue beast. But I am limited to not going outside the outer edge of the existing bodywork of the nose with front aero, which means I can't actually run a splitter with the Crusher nose.
With that in mind, I see that some have run the undertray level with the bottom of the flat front, and others (I think including Emilio) have run the flat front lower than the undertray, creating a lip on the flat front running under the bottom surface of the undertray. Which is better, and if a lip is better, how much of a lip is ideal? |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1148133)
We found some additional downforce by running the undertray 2-3" above the bottom of the air dam. Changed the balance of the car just by raising the undertray.
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7 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by zossy1
(Post 1148111)
I am now in a position to start building a Crusher front and undertray for the blue beast. But I am limited to not going outside the outer edge of the existing bodywork of the nose with front aero, which means I can't actually run a splitter with the Crusher nose.
With that in mind, I see that some have run the undertray level with the bottom of the flat front, and others (I think including Emilio) have run the flat front lower than the undertray, creating a lip on the flat front running under the bottom surface of the undertray. Which is better, and if a lip is better, how much of a lip is ideal? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405481654 While "Crusher Style" is shown in #5, there is something in between 4 and 5 that could work. I have been planning it for a while for our junkyard toy. I angled the airdam out to try and cover more tire and it is now outside the outer edge of the nose, but it could be hung totally vertical allowing a 4" splitter out front, as mine is. The splitter depth would either trail off towards the wheels, or you could keep a 4" splitter all the way around and need a 4" wide tire spat to cover the tire, just like #4. Keep in mind, my setup is built to shroud a 13x8.5" et0. 9" et36 would have a way narrower track width. Please excuse my dark garage potato photos. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405481654 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405481654 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405481654 |
Originally Posted by doward
(Post 1148501)
While "Crusher Style" is shown in #5, there is something in between 4 and 5 that could work.
I have been planning it for a while for our junkyard toy. I angled the airdam out to try and cover more tire and it is now outside the outer edge of the nose, but it could be hung totally vertical allowing a 4" splitter out front, as mine is. The splitter depth would either trail off towards the wheels, or you could keep a 4" splitter all the way around and need a 4" wide tire spat to cover the tire, just like #4. Keep in mind, my setup is built to shroud a 13x8.5" et0. 9" et36 would have a way narrower track width. |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1148133)
We found some additional downforce by running the undertray 2-3" above the bottom of the air dam. Changed the balance of the car just by raising the undertray.
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Originally Posted by OGRacing
(Post 1148562)
in what direction did it change the balance?
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1148655)
Added front downforce.
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Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1148669)
This
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Originally Posted by OGRacing
(Post 1148672)
cool thanks. we need to bring crusher the the wind tunnel..
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Saw this link posted over on the s2000 forums. Great tests and data from older magazine articles:
Technical Data :: Reverie |
13 Attachment(s)
Dollars spent: $200
Hours spent: 15 How effective: TBA Materials used: Structural Plywood, Speedway Motors Polyethelyne, Aluminium Angle, Gutter Mesh Size/thickness of materials: 12mm Ply, 3mm Poly Bracket location: Front crash beam and subframe mounts (behind steering rack) Tracks tested on: TBA Race/TT class built for: CAMS 2B Production Sports My Crusher front - will text next weekend: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408194432 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408194432 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408194432 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408194432 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408194432 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408194432 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408194432 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408194432 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408194432 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408194432 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408194432 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408194432 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408194432 Still have to tidy up the edges a bit. Used OEM radiator guide and shaped up additional plastic ducting for the radiator out of the leftover Speedway plastic. Used some rubber door trim I had lying around to seal it.vim a bit concerned the gutter mesh might be a bit dense and not let enough air through for cooling, but we'll see next weekend when I test. The fit isn't perfect but it is good enough for a good test. I learned heaps making this and could make another in a lot less time. Dropped around 8 lbs over the old plywood and 3"x2" splitter and OEM nose / GV lip combo. I have also cut and holed an old rear bumper I had lying around and will test that with the nose next weekend. |
Nice job, turned out very clean.
Originally Posted by zossy1
(Post 1158049)
a bit concerned the gutter mesh might be a bit dense and not let enough air through for cooling, but we'll see next weekend when I test.
-Ryan |
Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 1158120)
Nice job, turned out very clean.
This was my first thought when looking at it, just be sure to keep an eye on your temps. -Ryan |
McMaster isn't really an option here in Oz... But I'll source something else before next weekend. Thankfully removing the front panel is only a 5-10 minute job.
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That looks very sharp indeed!
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What's the value of keeping the plastic stock air straightener? I haven't seen too many cars keeping that... Or maybe I didn't notice?
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Looks pretty good. However, the 1/2" plywood bellypan is unecessary. Mine is made from the 6mm flavor and holds up just fine. Its plenty strong for a belly pan. would probably save you an additional 7-8 lbs which in my book is alot
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Originally Posted by Seefo
(Post 1158401)
What's the value of keeping the plastic stock air straightener? I haven't seen too many cars keeping that... Or maybe I didn't notice?
As for the 12mm ply, it may be a bit heavier but the survivability is also that much better. In the future, I might go with a laminated fibreglass tray but again, one decent off track plow run and I'm out of business. But you ain't gonna smash 12mm ply to easily. |
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408194432
came out looking fantastic. but rivets man, rivets! probably would have saved you $50 in hardware using rivets. PS lighter too. |
Originally Posted by OGRacing
(Post 1158487)
came out looking fantastic. but rivets man, rivets! probably would have saved you $50 in hardware using rivets. PS lighter too. But yeah, might have saved a few grams. |
big kilograms are made up up those little gram things ;)
yes, probably nit-picking over very minor things, but I always remind myself it alllll adds up. -Ryan |
4 Attachment(s)
Here was my attempt at a radiator exit duct. This is the split configuration, as I will be running a cowl induction air inlet setup. It is tall enough to clear my mongo SPAL fan, and will exit through two diamond-ish shaped holes in the hood.
If it doesn't flow sufficient amounts of air, I'll be bummed, and will end up yanking it off and just leaving the holes in the hood. It should be in the negative pressure zone of the hood, I'm just concerned whether the volume will be enough. I can't make it any bigger than that, as it's as tight to the engine accessories as I can make it without fear of shredding a belt (engine is leaning back in that pic as transmission isn't in). It is made from a very thin-walled 3/8" box tubing skeleton, and a 1/16" ABS skin that is riveted on. Seams are sealed with black silicone where necessary. Rivnuts hold it to welded tabs on the radiator end tanks. |
I believe you are right about the negative pressure towards the front of the hood. Ive seen plenty of people with that design. Most of them have a lip around 3 of the 4 sides with the back flushed. I believe this aids in a more uniform flow above the duct to extract maximum heat. I really messed up when I did mine. I placed a naca duct in the front with the vents in the back.
https://www.miataturbo.net/media-53/...upplies-52825/ |
I just finished reading this entire thread and I am impressed. I've been trying to get open foam running on my Linux pc but have been having issues. What other software are you guys using besides cosmos and openfoam?
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Also just wanted to put out a big THANKS to the folk on this thread. Been lurking for a while, and learned a lot.
I've autocrossed a friend's Subaru off-and-on over the years, and was blown away by how much it mattered when did some fairly extensive aero. He ran in X-Prepared, which has allowances for something like 8sqft of wing and a huge splitter that extends 6" ahead of the bumper and goes back to the centerline of the front wheels. The biggest difference was in braking. I wasn't sure what difference it would make to my CSP Miata, which has relatively small allowances for splitters and only allows a spoiler. The spoiler can be 10" off the bodywork, so still pretty large. But the splitter has to be behind the leading edge of the bumper and can only go back to the front of the wheel opening, which results in a pretty small splitter on a Miata. We put together an alumalite front splitter and a durabond rear spoiler on the car a couple months ago, just at the end of the season, and it made a noticeable difference, even at autocross speeds. Neal |
Here is my EP bumper. Just the same as everyone else. I haven't made any ducting to the radiator yet because I was limited on time. But I did pick up 5 mph on the straight away at NCM motorsports park with the air dam and under tray. I also made a spoiler like the blackbird one and added a gourny flap but I really don't think it does anything. I have a COT wing also, Im just waiting on my buddy to find time to make the stands.
Dollars spent: 50ish Hours spent: 2 How effective: 3 0=slower, 1, no improvement, 2 =slightly better,3= big improvement Materials used: 1/8th inch abs and 1/4 inch HDPE Bracket location: right beside the tow hooks Tracks tested on: NCM motorsports park Race/TT class built for: PTE https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...890f6e317039be |
2 Attachment(s)
Finished up the new front aero setup just in time for GTA SLB Finale.
Old: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416780058 New: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1416780058 A few things to add/improve still that I didn't get around to before the event, but performance was excellent even as-is: http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w...ps0fce654b.jpg |
Your car looks very purposeful. Nice work.
I made a front spoiler buck. Just need to sand and polish it, then take a mould. This design is intended for a street/track car. So doesn't hang down or out too far. Will upload some better pics when it's done. I used 20mm foam, and plaster. Then hi fill primer, and black paint. I will make a carbon fibre spoiler from the mould. This will only fit NB8B 2001-2005. Hopefully have the first spoiler done in the next week. Also, I made some panels up to block the sides of the radiator opening, reducing the size substantially. Alloy sheet was used. Pics up when it's all done. http://s24.postimg.org/yfhw0do91/image.jpg photo upload |
Forgot to upload the finished pics. Will be testing it on a high speed track at the end of the month.
http://s29.postimg.org/cuugfjlvb/image.jpg http://s29.postimg.org/beixxeiyf/image.jpg windows 7 screenshot |
That came out great! Wish I had one for my RX7, very similar look to a number of the European hill climb cars.
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Ryan, your car has always looked impressive from an engineering perspective and now the paint looks as good as the aero. Nice job. Is the rear still the same what you showed us last?
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Originally Posted by lightyear
(Post 1193352)
Forgot to upload the finished pics. Will be testing it on a high speed track at the end of the month.
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Most likely make a support behind the bumper to the Oem hole where the inner liner and bumper bolt together with the plastic screw. But use a metal bolt and captive nut. And bolt on a small removable alloy strap under the front edge on each side that will wrap around to the top side with a cable attached onto the tow points to support the leading edge.
I have had it to about 70mph as is, with only the Oem plastic screws holding it on. |
Whether it survives at speed without falling off is a different thing entirely than how much downforce is being lost in flex.
Originally Posted by mx5autoxer
(Post 1193533)
Ryan, your car has always looked impressive from an engineering perspective and now the paint looks as good as the aero. Nice job. Is the rear still the same what you showed us last?
-Ryan |
i'm shocked by the rolls of plastic that summit sells. they all color match oem miata colors...
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Originally Posted by lightyear
(Post 1193602)
Most likely make a support behind the bumper to the Oem hole where the inner liner and bumper bolt together with the plastic screw. But use a metal bolt and captive nut. And bolt on a small removable alloy strap under the front edge on each side that will wrap around to the top side with a cable attached onto the tow points to support the leading edge.
I have had it to about 70mph as is, with only the Oem plastic screws holding it on. |
Originally Posted by OGRacing
(Post 1193763)
i'm shocked by the rolls of plastic that summit sells. they all color match oem miata colors...
Allstar Performance purchased via Amazon. 4x8' x .100, $56 shipped. Amazon.com: Allstar Performance 22465 4X8 PLASTIC ORANGE: Automotive Note the self clearancing and crack resistance where it got whacked. HDPE is the ideal material for this. http://www.trackhq.com/forums/attach..._225_2014.jpg? |
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^ First set of our NC hood louvers in the wild... and they're on an NB :hahano:
-Ryan |
Originally Posted by ThePass
(Post 1193760)
Whether it survives at speed without falling off is a different thing entirely than how much downforce is being lost in flex.
The idea that dowforce is lost due to trunk lids or bumpers or other parts flexing is just an old forum wives' tale. Think about trying to compress a spring with your hands. If you push the spring with your right hand, then your left hand has to push back with the same force to compress the spring. Your left hand does not see less force because the spring is compressing. You're putting potential energy into the spring as you compress it, but energy and force are two separate things. The same goes for body parts flexing under aero loads. If an aerodynamic device is creating a downward force, then 100% of that force is eventually going to end up at the tires. The downforce doesn't just disappear into space when one of the pieces in the middle flexes. The only way flex comes into play is when it starts changing the shapes of parts and the angle at which air is hitting those parts. However, as Formula 1 has shown recently, that flex can help you just as much as it can hurt you. Without testing, it's just another unknown. |
Originally Posted by jpreston
(Post 1194251)
I regularly see this comment pop up in aerodynamic discussions and have always kept my mouth shut, but I like this place too much.
The idea that dowforce is lost due to trunk lids or bumpers or other parts flexing is just an old forum wives' tale. Think about trying to compress a spring with your hands. If you push the spring with your right hand, then your left hand has to push back with the same force to compress the spring. Your left hand does not see less force because the spring is compressing. You're putting potential energy into the spring as you compress it, but energy and force are two separate things. The same goes for body parts flexing under aero loads. If an aerodynamic device is creating a downward force, then 100% of that force is eventually going to end up at the tires. The downforce doesn't just disappear into space when one of the pieces in the middle flexes. The only way flex comes into play is when it starts changing the shapes of parts and the angle at which air is hitting those parts. However, as Formula 1 has shown recently, that flex can help you just as much as it can hurt you. Without testing, it's just another unknown. |
Originally Posted by jpreston
(Post 1194251)
I regularly see this comment pop up in aerodynamic discussions and have always kept my mouth shut, but I like this place too much.
The idea that dowforce is lost due to trunk lids or bumpers or other parts flexing is just an old forum wives' tale. Think about trying to compress a spring with your hands. If you push the spring with your right hand, then your left hand has to push back with the same force to compress the spring. Your left hand does not see less force because the spring is compressing. You're putting potential energy into the spring as you compress it, but energy and force are two separate things. The same goes for body parts flexing under aero loads. If an aerodynamic device is creating a downward force, then 100% of that force is eventually going to end up at the tires. The downforce doesn't just disappear into space when one of the pieces in the middle flexes. The only way flex comes into play is when it starts changing the shapes of parts and the angle at which air is hitting those parts. However, as Formula 1 has shown recently, that flex can help you just as much as it can hurt you. Without testing, it's just another unknown. |
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1194278)
What about flexing transferring the direction of the load? Is that possible?
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1194281)
Nope. If your wing mounts bolted to the roll bar and your wing was behind the bumper it acts on the car the same as if its bolted to the bumper. What the flexing can do is change the angle of attack or shape of your aero component. So when the air pulls down and on that bumper cover and stretches it out its moving the cow catcher in relation to the ground, and that could change the downforce.
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