Catching up on this thread. It is garden edging and they will have it (if they have it) in the garden section. Lowes or Home Depot should have it. Maybe even Walmart for that matter though I have never looked for it there.

Attaching the air dam to the splitter is not a big problem IMO, and there are significant benefits with overall structural rigidity and splitter support/stiffening.

I looked at every place in this village (40,000 people), so I ended up using fiberglass edging strip and so Dzus fasteners.

Even with that flat underbody and diffuser or was it splitter only?

Looks really nice. Especially the side sills and the underbody inlets for the front brakes. I think you could gain a lot by giving the air another way out of your wheel wells (back or top).

- Tom

I test my aero around a corner every day coming back from work, its a one way corner out in the country. All speeds don't go under the noted mph

on 185 Barum Bravuris 2 no aero.............................................. .........56 mph
w/ 225 Nitto NT01 and no aero.............................................. ............62 mph
w/ underbody/diffuser/dive planes on 185 Barum Bravuris 2.............63 mph
205 Hankook Hankook Ventus HRII w/all aero...................................57 mph

The back is to happy to go any faster. I took it out to a 90 mph plus corner and at 90 the steering is way heavier than with out the splitter, but feels firmly planted. As for the wheel wells for venting is why I'm working on carbon GT style 30mm body fenders.

Took most of the front tires out of the air flow:

Here is a simple setup for making the splitter detach when you need it too without compromising on the rigidity of the mounts. When the nose of the splitter hits, the mounting bolts are allowed to slide in the channel you see, allowing the splitter to drop off underneath the car without causing any further damage. The kit is also simple to take off the car for those loading up the trailer. This kit is made by P1 Special Projects for the honda boys. I believe the mounts can be sourced seperately from the splitter and lip they sell.

Well kiss my grits! That's the cutest little thing I ever did see! But after a brief search it looks like that company just up and died. Does anyone here think they could make this their own special project and build a few to sell to us non-machinists? One that would integrate to the Miata frame layout, perhaps?

I think "KaZeSpec" was making something just like this over on CR. Thread was called "Full aero kits" or something.

Yeah kazespec sells a splitter kit like that for I think 350. Unfortunately he became a sponsor on cr and got tons of intrest in the kit until he finished it. That's when everyone decided they don't want it.

Sounds about right.

I completely forgot they made that kit. But now looking at it i remember why i forgot. The kit is overpriced at $315. I understand it requires them designing it and troubleshooting the product before releasing it to the public; which requires an initial investment of money and time. The hiems make the kit so expensive and the brackets are just simple aluminum pieces. This kit also does not solve the problem of breaking the splitter off in an o sh%* moment. The heims will rip off all their supports and the lower mount i dont believe will allow the slip needed to seperate the splitter as designed. In no way am i trying to knock Kazespec for their product and support their efforts to add a new miata specific product to the market. That kit just needs to be under $200 for it to appeal to the "diy" market.

Feel free to make a kit and sell it for $150. Why would a DIY market even be looking for a kit?

That's actually not how they work. They don't slide off the channels, you are thinking of it backwards. The channels are to allow the splitter to slide ON to the car so that it is easily removable. This kit doesn't allow the splitter to break off any more than the KazeSpec Engineering kit.

Former Honda Owner

It's still a very nice design, would be great if they were closer to 200-250 though.

Give it time, the price will eventually drop in a few months when they realize they aren't selling that many.

Please stop armchair speculating about the merits of "breakaway" splitters. It's just the wrong way to do it. That is all.
-Ryan

Dollars spent: $220ish (excluding wing)
Hours spent: 20
How effective: 3
0=slower, 1, no improvement, 2 =slightly better,3= big improvement
Materials used: 12mm Marine Ply, 1 inch ali box section (3mm wall), 10mm ali plate, 3mm ali T piece, 3mm ali L piece, 2.5mm ali wire, various nuts and bolts
Bracket location: Splitter is to mounts in front of the rad
Tracks tested on: Llandow, no timing
Race/TT class built for: N/A track day car

Lessons Learnt:
Don't use a hacksaw on 10mm ali plate
When people say boot mounting a wing won't work, they aren't kidding
If you run with just a splitter, expect large amounts of oversteer

I haven't played about with the wing angle yet but at the pictured setting it balances the front aero nicely. That I can just keep up with the guys on semi slicks through the faster stuff is good confirmation for me that the aero is working well.

I do have slightly more lateral movement in the wing than I would prefer, any suggestions would be welcome, and apologies for how filthy my car is...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1367662576

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1367662576

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1367662576

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1367662576

Use a couple of guy wires to make an X brace between the two wing mounts. Keith did it first: Targa Miata

BGW and air brake
 

Heres my attemp so far, just found this thread. Brilliant, going to try the plywood front dam next



Works off a switch on the brake pedal.

*

HeresJohnny - first of all, bravo, for trying some active aero.
I do see some theoretical problems with that though - usually from what I've seen air brakes are done with spoilers, not so often with actual airfoils. Coming into a braking zone and having the airfoil drastically change angles as you transition onto the brakes could do some very funky things to your grip balance - you might get a sudden increase in rear downforce as the angle increases, taking weight off your front tires momentarily, and then all rear grip will go away a moment later as the wing passes its stall angle. This would be much worse in higher speed braking zones - there are several tracks around here that have 130 mph to 50-70 mph braking areas. If this is intended for autocross, it might work better as the wing won't be creating massive downforce at those speeds, so the change in downforce as the wing moves will be less severe..

Just thinking out loud here.
-Ryan

Could you revise your design to only actuate the second element of the wing? I'd expect that to make it less susceptible to the issues that Ryan voiced.


I've put some thought into active aero and have what I think would be a decent design for an active spoiler/air brake. It'd resemble any other comically large auto-x spoiler when raised and lay flat against the trunk lid with a few inches of overhang off the back when lowered. If somebody wants my CAD files, parts list, and control logic, I'd be glad to share. I mean, it's an untested design and my files aren't complete but it'd make a good starting point. It's something that I eventually would like to make however I need to get my car running first.

For example, this is the assembly that bolts to the inside of the trunk lid and forces the base of the spoiler back to raise it up. If my math is right, this will push the spoiler though it's full range of motion in under a second.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1367782290

Flip the end plates out?

Pulling them back in would require some force though.

Another reason for keeping the end plates huge :)

It's a good idea. But would take a ton of force on the mounts. The boot skin may not be strong enough. I wanted to do something similar. What motor/solenoid did you use?

Yeah.. needs 1/4" steel uprights for that..

What I was thinking of awhile ago was to put a speed brake that would be like the factory trunk spoilers (or like Lightyears car with the ABS plastic around the back of the car) , then under braking it would pop up being 4"-6" taller to catch more air. That way it wouldn't disturb the air going to the rear wing as much.

Kinda like this

Is the effective braking from air resistance greater or lesser than the mechanical force of the brakes and rear tires firmly planted?

If the downforce increased in the rear, would that lift weight off the front?

If the stall angle of the rear airfoil is exceeded and the downforce indeed goes away, does the rear end get light? In a very high speed corner where trail braking is occurring, a reduction in downforce could make the rear end catastrophically loose.

I think a smaller angle change might be very effective on a fast track, but as stated before, the large change would likely be effective at lower speeds such as an autocross.

But don't get it twisted, I'm very impressed with the design and the work you put into this. I would love to experiment with it.

Jeremy Clarkson said that the Veyron's air brake produces more braking power than a normal car

My idea was to have 3 positions. Base setting would be at aoa that you require. And run low angle for straights, and high angle for brakes. Could have a switch under acc, and brake to trigger. Or buttons on steering wheel. But was only going to change a few degrees each way. Flipping up all the way will make a huge difference. Be interesting to see how you go.

^^ Yes! It will take time to determine what is most effective and how much is too much in terms of stall on the wing and the potentially dangerous adjustments to the car's attitude but we all applaud you breaking new ground. Please keep us updated. It may warrant its own thread if you end up with bunch of testing and design revisions. :party:

Used a power seat motor from a BMW, was the right speed and really strong

I'm sure you're right, I started with just the top wing flipping but go carried away

I started out with just the top wing moving but more on the DRS lines, then went the air brake route

It's been a concern, they are stainless steel and there are 1/4" plates on the underside where it bolts through.
I'm thinking the boot skin may deform, we will soon see.

Well are you trying to slow down faster or increase the downforce? For example a parachute doesnt cause downforce but will stop you a lot faster than a spoiler would.

*

The plan was to put the momentary switch under the brake pedal which would be closed off during hard braking. Although I was surprised how little the peddle arm actually moves when applying the brake so finding the right location will be tricky. Had also considered maybe taking a signal from the tachometer so it only allowed the air brake to operate above/ below a predetermined speed. But at the moment it's little steps at a time and see where it takes me TBH.
Thing is I'm not racing as such just doing track days but I like the challenge and testing bit nearly as much as the sideways action.

Are your spats/canards/whatever they are called in front of the tires vertical or do they have any slant to them?

I have only thumbed through various CCRs but my hunch is active aero would immediately put you into unlimited classes if it is allowed at all. This is probably more a project for the track day warriors many of us are. ;)

Hey, Redline Time Attack allows active aero in Modified. You have to keep your dash and glove box because they are supposed to be "street cars", but active aero/DRS/etc. is all totally acceptable. ;)

Well, as long as the glove box is there... :giggle:

wouldnt want it to be TOO aerodynamic or light weight... might give you an advantage over others... :drool:

They follow the fender/bumper so there is some angle, but I could improve by adding canards.

that didn't help the Veyron that bounced off the tire wall in phoenix a few weeks ago haha

I was working that event. while I don't advise ANY cornerworker taking their eyes off a cornerstation while working, there were only 3 cars on track so I managed to snap a few pictures.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1367893215

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1367893215






anyways, ill be updating this thread with my DIY aero as soon as I can get some good non phone pics. HUGE difference on track with just a "crusher" type airdam and an APR gtc200

I guess the Stig wasn't driving. But of course its going to matter how fast your going to be effective.

From 400-300kph maybe, but JC talks alot of shit - it's his trademark.

Here is some thing I found quickly

"It employs carbon disc brakes and is supplemented by the rear wing that acts as an airbrake at speeds higher than 200kph.The brakes can withstand a maximum heat of 1800°C. Also when the air brake is at an angle of 55 degrees, it generates 70 percent of an average car's braking force."

And as for the DRS wing we were talking about previously, why not make the wing angle level off as the top speed of the car is reached. At lower speeds have the attack angle at 15 or so degs.

So, 70% rear brake at 200kph? :D

70% of a normal car's brakes in the rear at 200kph. The regular brakes do quite a bit more than that.

Here: .68g for the air brake, 1.3g for the discs.

Dollars spent: ~$100
Hours spent: roughly 18 or so
How effective: 3, HUGE improvement
Materials used:
*APR GTC-200 universal wing
* some misc bolts from ace hardware
*steel flat bar similar to this available at home depot then cut into various lengths
*plastic ABS sheet from speedway motors
Size/thickness of materials:
1/8" thick plastic sheeting for airdam, L Stock to mount uni-GTC 200, 1.5" x 1.5" L stock, 1/2" x 1/8" steel flat bar.
Bracket location: airdam is attacked to front bumper via washers/nuts/bolts
Tracks tested on: INDE Motorsports Ranch, 2.3 mile configuration 4
Race/TT class built for: NASA TTD



To start off, I got the APR GTC-200 for relatively free from my teammate who got it off craigslist for $40. yes, forty bucks. got to love crackhead pricing. I mounted that to the trunk using 1.5"x1.5" L stock, cut into ~10" strips and then grinded down into a wedge shape so that I could still use the trunk. still a very tight fit and has taken some paint off the trunk. oh well.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368061163



the airdam material is 1/8" thick and comes in a 10 foot roll from speedwaymotors.com. Found this material from a post within this thread, youd be a fool to not use this stuff. super easy to cut, stiff but flexible.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368061163


covers up MOST of the tire sticking out. current wheel/tire is a 15x8 +25 on 205/50 NT01s.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368061163

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368061163




HUGE improvement with on-track behavior. before, all I had was a GV-replica lip. With this, I was able to take a corner at the end of the straight at INDE WOT in 4th, were others (comparing with miatas) had to brake and then turn in. There were a few times where I almost lost the rear end due to hitting a berm, but the car was VERY predictable to get back in control--almost drift like-- whereas before I would've probably spun out. turning the wheel seemed to be noticeably slower, yet the car went wherever I pointed the wheel and just stuck.

not my video, but this is the track/configuration I ran:
This was my first day with the aero on and as much of a shock it was to me and was trying to get used to it, I was able to run a 1:50.016 with this package/205 NT01s with roughly a day of tread left on them, FM front bar w/stock rear, 4.3 LSD, koni yellows with 500F/350R springs and a '99 motor swap w/122hp to the wheels. The next comparable Miata/my competition to mine was just over 3 seconds behind my time, usually we are within a half second.

track record is a 1:47.493 in TTD in a supercharged Miata with fresh hoosier 225's..

im hoping to break that record next time I hit that track in the fall with fresh hoosiers. also debating on tossing in the 4.78 gears I have sitting here.


as the car sits, I still have 6 points left before im maxed in D. :D

Couldn't resist


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368061517

haha yup! that would be robs car.

probably more damage than the cost of my house and everything I own.

I like the new paint job, its like marbleized. Now what about the other side

Using a parachute to slow down is much different than using rear brakes at the tires. One directly reduces traction available at the tires while the other increases drag at the rear.

Post the Veyron to Clubroadster, they'll like it even more with it's "battle scars". Needs more zip ties though.

haha nothing a little buffing wont fix!

that picture doesn't show the cracked headlight and side mirror, and various dents on the whole driver side.

needs a little more than buffing!

Dollars spent: Scrap Aluminium
Hours spent: 1
How effective: 1
0=slower, 1, no improvement, 2 =slightly better,3= big improvement
Materials used: 5052 Aluminium
URL, brand name, material type
Size/thickness of materials: 1/8"
.060", 3/16" etc
Bracket location: Under fender
Tracks tested on: N/A
Race/TT class built for: N/A

So to vent out high pressure air out of the wheel well

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368410281

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368410281

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368410281

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368410281

Could the fender improve with a gurney flap?

Where at exactly? Info