Gee Emm

A lap timer is a great idea, will be a big help in going faster.

The Solo may be just right for you, but as one burned by an AiM Solo, I am encouraging anyone contemplating one to be sure they are comfortable with the way it works, especially if they opt for the DL datalogging variant. My recommendation is to find a mate who has one, and who can lead you by the hand through the tips and tricks. And don't forget that there are competitors - look around before you jump.

Z33Taxi

What happened that you got burned? I dont think I'd spring for the DL version, just a solo2

Gee Emm

Short version? AiM bullshitted us that all we had to do was was plug it into the ECU, we were a bunch of idiots that couldn't follow instructions - nothing wrong with our product. Three years after purchase, and after whole lot of work by highly competent people, AiM finally admitted to a bug, and modded one of the boards. No apology forthcoming. That is a Solo2DL, and the problem was the ecu connection. I spent a bit of time on the FB page for AiM, and I saw a lot of stuff going on with their PDM (amongst others) which confirms that they seem to see the user base a beta testers, except the products are sold as operational for good money. You can follow the saga on here in the AiM thread if you have nothing better to do, but that is the essentials.

If you are only doing lap timing, my experience is only marginally relevant. However, if you are only going doing lap timing, you really need to convince yourself that is all you are ever going to want - like driving with one arm behind you back ...

flier129

iTrader: (7)

On the flip side for me......

I've used an AiM Solo (first gen) for many many years without issue. My MXL2 install was probably the easiest dash install I've ever done(CANbus to Kpro). Super easy UI on their software, all the sensors are plug-n-play, and they have a LOT of sensor choices. The only downside is cost, but it seems it's always expensive for lap-times+data-acquistion.

Quigs

iTrader: (2)

Solo will hands down work better than phone for sure. A dedicated GPS device that does nothing other than track your position and collect data is well worth it IMO. I've heard all the issues @Gee Emm mentioned with the DL as well, so I stuck just with the regular Solo2 and it has been worth every penny so far as far as driver development short of coaching.

​​​​​​​

I can certainly understand the stress of such a big life change! The good thing about TT6 is that there are many weights that have been shown to be successful/competitive. Some people actually prefer to run a little heavy. I have a set of scales if you have a weekend where you want to swing by and see what she weighs.

​​​​​​​

Having installed a Sparco Ergo into a NB before, be ready for a struggle getting it in. It's a big seat. Seat brackets will make all the difference with whatever seat you choose. Don't waste your time with PCI or Planted, Jerfspeed is the way. I have Jerfspeed brackets for my passenger side also for when my wife wants to jump in for a ride at non-competitive events. They were worth every penny both for ease of getting the seat as low as possible and also quick and easy install/removal when needed.

I run the same pads, so I don't think the pads are the issue. Heat will cause them to wear faster, but I've never had them fade. Maybe fluid is the weak point in your system? Or if you're significantly heavier than me then maybe you are taxing the pads a bit too. I also think that as you become more and more comfortable and keep moving up the DE ladder you'll start braking less and with more efficiency. I used to eat through pads like crazy when I was in DE2, now I can get a set to last six weekends or more.

I'll see you at all of those ​​​​​​​

Z33Taxi

WHAT YEAR IS IT?!?!?!

Its been awhile since I posted, but its been equally as long since I've done anything of note. A few weekends ago I traveled 10hrs to my favorite track, Lime Rock Park. Its my old region, as I now live in VA/NC, so it was fun seeing everyone again. I did my first session and then asked to do a check ride and was moved up into DE3. So this was my very first time running in DE3 and it felt like the group I'm supposed to be in.

The weather was absolutely perfect, 75-83 all weekend and even with running at VIR and Watkins Glen, LRP is still my favorite track. Its smaller enough where you can walk everything, get on grid without rushing and the paddock is so close that you should never be late to anything.

The car remains unchanged from last year. I did buy an AIM solo 2, but even with thinking I had it all set up I ran into issues of it recording lap times while driving to grid, the light indicators not going off, but thats more of a me error than anything else.

I had a Mid-pack/front running SM driver ride with me and then he drove my car and he was around 1.5 seconds faster than me, but provided a lot of great insight. He noticed my following error and I agree:
- I really need to focus on looking up instead of just to the end of that particular turn/segment
- I lift well before I brake, then I'm slow to roll on the throttle. This was the biggest thing we worked on while he was driving and I did improve a bit on this throughout the weekend
- He can tell that I'm adhering to the basics and now wants me to focus on driving my car. The main thing is I want to brake in straight lines only and he said that's correct for most cars, but the Miata can be handled differently and not to be afraid of letting the throttle rotate the car more while I keep my hands still.

With all this I gained a lot more confidence and improved from a 1:08.6 to a 1:07.3. My goal was to drop into the 1:05s. Front running SM cars run 1:02s.

This video starts at my fastest Lap, where I follow a SM car. I find that I drive much faster when following some. A lap or two after this the SM driver makes a mistake and I get the point, so that was a confidence booster


***Current set-up***
Weight 2450: Driver and 1/2 tank of gas
Engine:
-Monsterflow intake
-SuperMiata radiator
- RB Header
- Goodwin racing catted midpipe
- RB race muffler
Suspension:
-Xida Coilovers 900/500
-Racing beat front sway bar
- SM Rear sway Bar
Drivetrain:
-Factory 3.9 Torsen
- SM clutch
- SM 9 lb Aluminum flywheel
Interior:
-Spec Miata ultrashield seats Driver/passenger bolted to floor
-Hard dog double diagonal w/ harness bar
- Racequip harnesses
-Momo Steering wheel w/ Nrg hub and quick detach
Brakes:
- DTC60 Front
- DTC30 Rear
-Centric blanks rotors
-FM SS brake lines
Wheels/Tires:
- Konig Dial in 15x9
- Hankook RS4 225/45/15

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

The SM was making mistakes in almost every turn. You look tentative, little or no slip angle. As if, perhaps, you're worried about the front or rear sliding. Track like that, min corner speed is everything. With low power, you need higher entry speeds to generate slip angle early and maintain it through the turn. Turn in with no tire slip angle front or rear, and tire scrub requires more torque to overcome than is available. 900/500 rates were developed around the way I drive. Max possible entry speed, light trailbraking to initiate rotation then right back to throttle to maintain that slip angle on all 4 tires through mid corner and exit. You are smooth, keep that up.
A few spots you're too focused on late apexes. Overslowing then taking too long to get down to apex, reducing min corner speed. I'd dial that back a skosh. Rotate in a bit earlier to generate more entry speed and carry that through apex. Work up to that gradually until you are sliding from apex to track out at WOT

Tricky part is if you don't feel confident in your ability to manage slides with those trees and guardrails in your face. West coast tracks usually have acres of runoff. Like those X games athletes practicing into foam pits. Much easier to develop the skills and confidence when getting it wrong doesn't involve a life flight and flat bed.

Work up to higher entry speeds sufficient to fully load the tires to their optimum slip angles earlier in the turn. Downshift a bit later in T1. Don't die.

My .02

Z33Taxi

I don't disagree with any of those critiques.

What's odd is I don't feel nervous when I'm out there, but then I get off track and kick myself for not implementing the stuff I want to try. My goal is to improve one sector at a time and I pick a goal, like my goal is always try not braking on the up hill and to just get through with a lift. However, when it comes time to actually do it I don't. I enjoy my consistency, when I have a clear track I can get with .2 +/- of my previous lap or best lap, but with that being said I would much rather do faster laps and break the habits I have. If I could go faster, I would consistently go faster.

This was after a year of not being on track, but I'm hoping once November at Summit Point comes along I can really put everything together and pull out a respectable time. Summit looks fun because it seems to give off Lime Rock vibes.

Quigs

iTrader: (2)

I'm sad NASA doesn't run the chicane going up the hill. That looks like so much fun from watching the IMSA race.

Consistency and smoothness are good things for sure! I'm going to start looking into some coaching this year, might be beneficial for you too. I spent some time with Dion van Moltke from Blayze (formerly Racers360) this weekend at Pitt and he helped with find some time in a very informal down and dirty session. I know I'm certainly to the point where I need some help finding more time, so maybe some formal coaching might be worth it for you as well.

Excited for Summit in a few months!

thebeerbaron

iTrader: (1)

Blasphemy! That ruins one of the most fun corners on the track.

An eon ago, I did the Skip Barber MX-5 3-day school at Lime Rock and it was amazing. It was the first and last time I got a car airborne, or at least so light the rear wheels were spinning. Going over the crest of the uphill, the car would get real light, the rear wheels would rev up for a split second, and then you could feel each wheel return back to the track - left front, right front, left rear, right rear... Super fun, however one student didn't have the steering wheel completely straight when he went over the crest and he spun to the inside guard rail, doing some pretty serious damage to the car. Another student absolutely destroyed another car on the last session of the last day - he was fine but his checkbook was not. Lime Rock does not forgive mistakes cheaply.

My fastest lap in the MX-5 was probably the one where I came out of the Downhill with just a wee bit more slip angle than was comfortable for me. Truly a pucker moment, but the momentum that gave me going down the straight was incredible. Just don't look at the guard rail.

Thanks for the memories!

Z33Taxi

I agree, the uphill is a lot of fun and gets your nerves properly prepped for the downhill. It's a great sequence of turns

Z33Taxi

Long time no see guys. I'm prepping for another HPDE season with NASA, this time in the Mid-A as I recently bought a house about 15 mins from VIR. The goal is the same as always: Change fluids, track the car, try to go fast, try harder not to crash. However, I am also prepping something for the next season at the same time


I picked up a well priced K24z3, for 600$


Started slowly taking it apart, this will be the first motor I've torn down aside from a 68 Beetle. So Im not rushing.





No shiny bits in the oil, but oh lord is there a bunch of RTV/Honda bond


Goooooooppy





My first real hurdle, other than the perfectly rounded hex bolt holding on the last piece of the chain tensioner, so I'll have to extract that. The main issue is I have a cracked cam cap, #5



I noticed it as I was ready to pull the head off. I have all the caps off and as I pulled off the intake cam, I noticed this



I'm guess what happened is this piece of metal got in there, raised the height of the cam and that cracked the cam cap, either way Im trying to figure out where to go from here.

Are the cam caps specific to the cams or can they be machined to match a new set of cams or even after market cams. I see Skunk2 makes drop in cams, but I'd rather stay as close to OEM/Stock as possible. Hopefully I can pull the head off soon and take a look at the block. I'm hoping to find a machine shop, but being new to NC I need to do a bunch of research on a reputable shop.

The goal is a TT/ST5 car, aero, Haltech....but I'd be happy with a K Powered Miata that runs as well and reliably as my 1.8 does.

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

Sadly, that cylinder head is likely just a paperweight now. Cam caps are line bored together so they are match up. You might be able to find a shop that can redo that work (i.e. all new caps on that side and bore them to match the cam), but it will likely be more expensive than getting a different cylinder head.

vtbandit

Congrats on the house down south.

The NASA SE TT6 group is looking to go to the NASA October event at VIR. We’ve been getting 5-11 drivers regularly. Hope to see you there.

Z33Taxi

I doubt I'll be in TT by that time,but I'm glad to see that TT6 still has interest. I wanted to try and make an event I'm the SE. I'd love to try CMP or Rockingham speedway, always wanted to try driving on a bank

Z33Taxi

Completed my first event of 2023 at VIR w/ NASA. First day I ran similar times to the last time I was there, but I reached out to @Quigs ,who has left the Miata world and now has a TT3 C5, and asked him to do a ride along with me. We linked up during the first session of the 2nd day and after that I took his advice and I just started shaving off time. The last time I was at VIR, 2021, I could do better than a 2:35. After my outing with Quigs I stayed consistent in the 2:26-2:27 and ultimately managed a 2:25.78.


Here's my 2:25 run. The GoPro telemetry didnt import correctly, but I verified with my Solo2.

I know that I can go faster and I think I know where I can make up the time.

T1- I need to get the car settled better and carry more speed with my trail breaking and utilize more of the outside of the track before cutting over to the right towards T3.

T3- I downshift into 3rd here and there's a small patch of concreate that I use as my turn in, Quigs showed me this, and I need to be more patient before my turn in

4A-6B Breaking later here would help. I would like to get closer to the curb instead of having to muscle the car over to 4B. A slight lift to WOT at 5B was another great tip and sets me up for the up hill esses.

7-9 I just have to remember to stay flat here. I shift into 5th and turn it where the entrance road is to the right of the bridge. I am comfortable staying WOT now, with the exception of 9 where there isnt a curb and just a gator. I lift slightly and maybe hold throttle at 80%. It helps me get over to the right and prepares me for 10.

10 I love turn 10 now. It was my scariest part of the track and something I really wanted to learn this weekend. I either need to carry more speed through there or blip into 4th. I think carrying more speed is the answer and just using more of the curbs on the left and right on the downhill.

11-12 This is where I think I lose the most time. I can't seem to get the inner apex in 4th and allow myself to get into 3rd before 12. What I kept doing is the safe/slow route and getting 4th to 3rd done then turning in. I slow down here and dont carry enough speed onto the rumbles coming out of 11, which of course slows me for the straight.

13-14 I feel more comfortable with this area now, but still know its a problem area, where I'm losing time. I shift into 4th at maybe the 4 or 3 board, maybe the 2, but instead off getting on throttle I ride hold the brakes a little too long, then brake again to heel toe to 3rd. I'd like to brake, turn in straight, throttle, then heel toe 3rd so that I can put the car on all the curb at 14

15-17 This section is also pretty butt puckering for me, but I enjoy it. I know use all the curb at 15, WOT(or attempt to) shift into 4th at 16A. What I would like to do is carry more speed and stay on throttle after 16A for a bit longer until the down hill gets steep then coast a bit, tap the breaks then WOT, jump 17 and then just full throttle until T1.

In all I'm getting more and more comfortable with being on track, especially being next to or side by side with other cars. I'm driving my own car, instead of getting fixated on others and just keeping to my own lines. I'm trying to get off the "school line" and working on the racing line or adapting to the line that I'm on even if its not optimal. I passed my DE3 test, so I really want to do well in DE3 and start thinking about TT. The car is more than capable, I think I'm capable. I just need to fine tune my skills and try and stay consistent

Z33Taxi

New PB, found 2 seconds since my last post, but there is still some time in there with my current setup.

Another VIR event done and for me it will end the 2023 season. I am now in DE3 and run in the advanced group on open run days. My goal for 2024 is get into TT because suddenly NASA MA actually has a few TT6 guys and I want to join them. Which brings me to my off season goals which is to bring the car closer to TT6 spec. I have dynoed the car, but I'm sure Im down on power, running only bolt ons and stock ECU. I'm hoping to grab a MS3 during black friday and getting a base tune before installing it. I know that I am also on the heavier side, so besides heading back to the gym I need to take some weight out of the car as well.

The modifiers I'll be looking to run are

• 2450
• 140whp, or as close as I can get
• Manually, mechanically actuated throttle body (no electronic servo) +0.3
• NASA Section Width 226mm or less with MCW between 2400 lbs and 2749 lbs +0.3
• I love my RT660, but I will run 225/45/15(15x9) RC1's
• A-Arm -.5
• BTM Aero +0.4, planning on running hood vents which I believe are still allowed under BTM
  
  If for some reason I can't get close to weight, then I may consider ELBJ or a different tire selection.