Pretty much my situation as well. It was a quick fix when I installed my turbo, but I've also been running mine for a good amount of time and it seems to be fine.
I'm just going to route mine over to a bottle with a breather on it for now. Ghetto catch can style.

 

After tons of bodywork and prep, my car is now painted
The color is Nissan's Midnight Purple (LP2)

 

Looks great. Nice stance too. How's the Beer Money ecu tuning going?

 

Thank you.

I've been using BMM for the last year now, and its my first time working with a standalone. I'm pretty happy with it so far, seems to have all the features I need. There are still some aspects of my tune that I'm working on smoothing out (acceleration enrichment, cold starts), but overall, the car drives well.

 

Color looks great! I'm a sucker for Midnight Purple haha.

 

Took my car for an autocross shakedown a few weeks ago: task failed successfully
ECU coolant sensor signal was lost, supercharger bypass died, and throttle was sticking/feeling awful

Luckily easy enough fixes all around
1. My used sub-harness had poor splices that failed - removed those and pinned in fresh wires
2. The bypass on my charger was a VA784A, which was apparently discontinued. Replaced with a VA784, which is almost identical except the port points down towards the valve cover. Luckily there's enough clearance, so still fits on my setup. I capped off the old vacuum source on the outlet, and tapped the vacuum after the throttle body adapter in a location where the bypass would never see boost (which likely killed it)
3. I'm working on a DBW conversion, but currently running into issues on my ECU. In the meantime, I cleaned up the old throttle body, and made a new throttle cable bracket to better align the cable with the throttle body. Feels significantly better.

Also I picked up a big stupid wing

 

Installed a $60 Carplay head unit, new speakers, and fixed more failed splices from the previous owner. Sounds quality isn't great, but for about $120 all in, I'm happy

 

I hope you run with a hardtop or softtop up, wings perform best in clean air.

Tell me about your DBW, my Link has that capability, and I am thinking bout it more for cruise control than anything else.

 

If one day I decide to be a hardo about lap times I'll put the top up. For HPDE I'll likely keep sending it top down, since times don't matter and its all just for fun anyways

I have a 2014 v6 mustang throttle body and a remote pedal position sensor that came on Honda CRV, Odyssey, Civic, etc. I'm building a TB adapter plate out of 1/2" aluminum and will mount the PPS near the factory TB location. Currently, all of the sensors are getting read in by the ECU, just the H bridge isn't driving the throttle motor for some reason. Unsure if its a configuration issue on my end or what's going on, but I'm putting it on hold for now. My choice in throttle body only makes sense for a supercharged setup like mine - N/A or turbo builds should get a smaller throttle.

Does Link support DBW for cruise? My desire to switch was for more linear throttle response and better return to idle manners

 

Big wing with the top down is the way to go. It shows that you care about performance, but not at the sacrifice of fun

 

It supports DBW, and cruise control, just going on the PR bumph. I want cruise for the street, I assume that it will require the DBW TB, it might be doable with a servo motor though - need to look into this but so much to do, so little time!?! If it is doable on DBW, I will take the other advantages/features of that with thanks.

 

Couple track days in for the year. One of the dumb apex cones walked its way into the middle of the track and after I clipped it, the bolts holding my pulleys tack sheered, and the car needed a tow home. Turns out the bolts that came with my SC pulley were made out of cheese, so I got grade 12.9 replacements. My radiator intake duct seems to be very effective, the car didn't even get over 100C on my last track session in 80F ambient

Adventures in being cheap:

• $8 amazon brass shift bushing is great - works far better than the $$ one from 5x Racing
• $10 ebay wire sheathing sucks, do not recommend
• Porsche GT3 ducts are like $5 from FCP Euro, and and with a little trim and zip ties, can mount on the sway bar with no rubbing.

Fun laps from yesterday

 

Solid lap dude! Car sounds great and it looks like you’re pushing the limit with it. The lego racers thumbnail is icing on the cake.

I also ran an eBay $8 brass bushing on my 5 speed and it worked perfectly. The generic eBay 5 speed short shifters are solid as well (I ran one so I could put on a shift **** extender without making the throw too long).

 

Finally wired in a couple bits that have been on my shelf: Crank sensor with 36-1 trigger wheel and R8 coils

 

Coils look good. Notice a difference with the 36/1 trigger wheel or done at the same time as the coils so hard to tell? Any issues calibrating it in TS? Also, what plug is the bracket at the front of the valve cover holding?

 

I did them separately. The car starts way faster and smoother with the new trigger wheel. The setup was surprisingly easy - I guessed a trigger offset of 75, verified with a timing light that 81 was correct.

That plug/bracket is for the crank trigger sensor. I don’t have the factory piece, so I made that out of scrap aluminum. I might make something different, or source the OEM bracket, but this works for now.

 

Great stuff. Good source of inspiration for my build.

 

I thought this was cool. Comparing two logs, you can clearly see the difference in RPM accuracy between an NA CAS and a 36-1 crank trigger

 

Looks good. Looks like boost is up as well. Pulley?

 

Over the winter I swapped from a 1.7 to 1.9 pulley ratio. And maybe, no longer running a hot air intake helped.