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2000 SE Turbo
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Car:
2000 SE with about 90k on engine/chassis Story: While deployed to Afghanistan I bought a 97' Miata. My good buddy arctct (Tom) talked me into it. While since then I haven't been able to stop buying Miatas. Over the years I've noticed I spend more time working on them than driving them. I have learned a lot of lessons. I lost my 97' due to trying to run ALL THE BOOST. Ended up parting it out, and it never really became anything. Eventually it was sold. I inherited another miata which was already well sorted with an FM kit. I eventually parted that out in order to try out other cars. I purchased a 04' MR-S. It was fun, and a bit exotic. But I wasn't really happy with it. At the time I also had a 09' Honda Fit. I really missed having a miata, so I ended up trading my Fit for a 00' SE. It was a Northern car and had a bit of rust, which I knew about when purchasing it. Over the past few months I went back and fourth between whether I wanted to invest the time and money into a semi-rusty miata to restore it and possibly go turbo. Money was tight and I really just wanted to drive it. Well after some luck (Found out I was owed $3700 from my job) I decided I would rebuild the Miata. The deal I made with myself was if I restored it, I would turbo it, and drive the hell out of it. No more being in a constant cycle of making more power. I'm shooting for 180-200whp, using only quality parts. I haven't decided on whether I will be going with a kit, or piecing it together. I like the painless assembly of a kit, but there are some sexy pieces out there that are just as good (ARTech). Anyways so here I am, digging into the Miata again. I'm shooting for the first part of the build to be done this month, or very early February. I will be out of town for 5 weeks starting in January, which will put everything on hold. I will be doing the build in three parts. First will be everything to get the car prepped for the turbo. Suspension/bushings/maintenance/etc... Next will be the MS and Injectors... And finally the Turbo parts. Goals in order of importance: Reliable Fast (Street) Looks Let the fun begin. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1324231462 |
PART ONE
Maintenance: [x]Timing Belt (FlyinMiata) [x]Water Pump (FM) [x]Acc Belts (FM) [x]Shifter Boots (FM) [x]Fluids (FM) [x]Spark Plugs (FM) [x]Alignment Bolts (FM) Performance [x]Full Polyurethane Bushings (Renown Performance) [x]FM Sway Bars (FM dur) [x]FM Happy Meal w/ 10.3lb Flywheel (FM) [x]Megan Racing Coilovers (1xRacing)** [x]FM Slotted Calipers/Decent Pads (FM) [x]949 Racing Endlinks (949Racing) ** I know. They are shit. The one non-quality part. Hopefully it will hold me over until I get something proper. |
Is that color called "black cherry mica"? If so, that is my favorite Miata factory color.
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Originally Posted by thirdgen
(Post 807791)
Is that color called "black cherry mica"? If so, that is my favorite Miata factory color.
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That car is sooo sexy. I wish I had that front bumper on mine. Is that a racing beat header? What are your plans for that?
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Car currently has a full RB exhaust. Also a RB intake. Plans are to sell it this spring when I go turbo.
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My car has a 2.5" catless midpipe and a dual outlet racing beat muffler. It has served me well for years and will remain on my car. I see no reason to go bigger than 2.5" exhaust if your goal is under 300whp, but that's just me...
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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1324584745
I have Friday off, work Sat night, then have Sunday and Monday off so expect some good progress. Also have 4 days off next weekend too. |
Bushing kit REORDER.
Lesson learned: Don't order anything from EBAY ever. Just go with a freaking forum sponsor and win at life because you don't have to wonder 7 days whether or not something has shipped. Thanks for the hookup Renown Performance. |
Subscribed
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great start!! saw you mentioned ARtech-highly recommend him
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Was at it for about 2.5 hours today. It was cold, and I'm working in a storage unit...
First I fixed my compressor. The valve that adjusts line pressure broke... in the NO pressure position. Luckily there was a spare port on the tank pressure side... so I moved one of the connections to that side. Probably not the best for the impact gun, but I NEEDED air. So I tried getting the end links off the control arm. Ball joint is just spinning. Fuck it, I cut that shit, my 949 End links were laughing at me, I'll drill it out later: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1324683525 With that sorted out the front end was pretty much ready for the bushings to be removed. So I moved to the rear of the car and started prepping for the rear subframe removal. Exhaust had to come off first. The midpipe and muffler are basically one thanks to a bit of rust. So I pulled off the subframe brace that needed to come off anyways and dropped it straight down: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1324683525 Only a few casualties, 2 bolts from the subframe brace. They were the ones that connected to the subframe, very easy to drill out. All good. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1324683525 Easily disconnected the ABS, the harness that runs along the PPF, and calipers. Then went up top and unbolted the shocks. After much praying, I attempted to disconnect the brake line that runs to the sub frame. This must happen to drop the subframe. SO happy it came undone very easily: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1324683525 Once everything was disconnected I threw the jack under the diff and hit the outer 4 subframe nuts. Those came off easy. Then slowly removed the 2 middle bolts. All came off easy. With the weight on the jack I slowly lowered it and all was good in the world. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1324683525 I left the PPF attached, and drive shaft. The drive shaft will take some work... it's rusted to the diff. Figured I'd fix it now instead of just putting it off since I don't technically need to remove it. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1324683525 It looks fairly rusty, but it's not too bad. Some sanding and paint will go a long way. The control arms are the worst. The rear subframe is worse than the front. Removing the bushings will be an experience. Tomorrow I will attempt to disassemble the rear. Then I have a few heat shields to pull off for paint. From there I will start to drill out any of the broken bolts. After that I'll pull the trans off the motor and install the clutch. A few of the clutch bolts need to be drilled/tapped because they are bitches. Cross threaded like a mofo and I want to not have to worry about that shit anymore. Then I still have to pull the timing belt off and fix the water pump. Going with RTV shit this time, that gasket is shit. |
Not happening, it's cold as shit. Look for Sunday/Monday updates lol.
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I give it 3 months before you get bored and part it out. Then another 2 months after that till you buy another miata and start the process over again.
You go through miata faster then strippers go through cocaine. |
FRT_Fun = splitime? :idea:
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 810379)
I give it 3 months before you get bored and part it out. Then another 2 months after that till you buy another miata and start the process over again.
You go through miata faster then strippers go through cocaine. |
Thanks for the Plug! Anything else I can get you, let me know!
-Sam |
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Officially balls deep.
I knew knew knew this was going to be a problem. The rear lower control arm, outer bolt. IT"S ALWAYS A BITCH :vash::vash::vash:. It was on my last car, and it is on this one. Completely seized. I tried like hell the other day to get this thing loose, and even with my huge muscles it wasn't enough. Well today I came prepared. Went to lowes today and spent $150 on random shit. But of that 150, 20 was spent on one of those butane torch things. FUCK YES. Well I get to the shop, whip out the torch and fucking get torching. I rotated between torch, impact, and hammering the shit out of it. Sometimes I would switch it up and torch/impact at the same time. Or impact/hammer at the same time. It was pretty sexy. It would have probably turned half of you homos on. Here is a picture of fire: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325031123 After 30 min of that I had 2 of these: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325031123 Part of the $150 also bought me some cool shit to rig up one of those bushing... pusher... things. It called for 3/8 threaded line. It seemed a bit small at the store, but that is what the tutorial stated, and I didn't want to change it up. Well I set up the pusher and got pushing. Here is a picture: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325031123 Seems to be working. Picture: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325031123 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325031123 Oh shit son. WTFUUUUUUUUUUUUU. By looking at this picture: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325031123 You can see 1/2" thread will probably fit. So tomorrow I will go and make this shit again. On the bright side I did manage to get 3 of the bushings out. Picture: J/K I don't have a picture of that. Giving up on the bushings I moved over to the engine and started pulling shit apart there. To be more specific, I started removing the transmission to do the clutch and flywheel. All went smooth. Here is a picture (for real): https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325031123 That is really about it for today. I worked on it about 3 hours. Tomorrow I will get the bushings from Renown Performance, and hopefully remove the rest of the bushings from the control arms. That is really the last big thing I have to do. On reassembly I will be using a ton of this: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325031123 |
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Yea yea I know megan racing. One day I'll buy some real stuff, but this will do for now. They sure do look pretty though.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325092977 Bushings arrived too. About to walk over and grab em at the leasing office. |
Originally Posted by FRT_Fun
(Post 811785)
Yea yea I know megan racing. One day I'll buy some real stuff, but this will do for now. They sure do look pretty though.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325092977 Bushings arrived too. About to walk over and grab em at the leasing office. |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 811790)
You should paint them purple so they match your car. :giggle:
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Originally Posted by FRT_Fun
(Post 811792)
For some reason I actually thought they were purple. But when they showed up... blue. AND IT"S NOT PURPLE ITS MAHOGANY MICA!!!
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Should I do it with a lisp? hahaha.
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Looks like all the gear, can you drive to the cars capabilities or is it just a shelf queen?
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Shelf queen? All the gear? lol what?
This is a daily driver that I plan to have some fun with on the weekends. So if you are asking if it will be sitting in my garage, the answer is no. It will be driven every damn day. |
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Went and bought some new threaded rod. This time 7/16". It worked great on everything but the rear upper control arms, which have a bolt diameter of 3/8ths.... now I see why. Anyways got all the rest of the bushings out with a bit of fire and an impact gun. The front upper control arms flexed a bit which scared me, but they look fine now. Here is a picture:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325109738 The first try actually sent the nut off the end and flying half way across the shop... it just stripped all the threads on the nut. So I put TWO nuts on, aw yea: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325109738 Bushings were definitely shot: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325109738 Why are there so many bushings?! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325109738 Ended the day with paining the top of the front subframe: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325109738 And the front lower control arms: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325109738 I spent a good bit of 2 hours removing the rust from the front subframe and control arms. It sucked. The shop is dirty as hell, so I decided I will finish the front subframe/control arms/rack/suspension and bolt it back up to the car before moving to the rear. Once the rear is done I will install that shit. And finally put the engine back in. I MAY have it done by Monday. That assumes my bolt extraction works out. |
Currently doing the same bushing swap on a rusty 96 p.o.s.
I feel your pain, keep it up! |
Originally Posted by doward
(Post 812638)
Currently doing the same bushing swap on a rusty 96 p.o.s.
I feel your pain, keep it up! |
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Got some work done today. Please enjoy the ride:
Started out with some painting and grinding today. Hit a few spots on the subframe and front lower control arms. They are looking pretty fine: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325216735 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325216735 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325216735 Next I took a good look at the front end and decided it was best to replace just about everything. It was all one big rusty piece. So new tie rods (inner/outer) and ball joints are in store. Also might be picking up a properly depowered rack to go along with it. The upper ball joint seems to be in okay condition. We will see, might get new upper control arms. I installed the lower control arm energy suspension bushings and it went pretty smooth. I found it works best to install the bushings, then hammer in the middle cylinder/spacer thing. That is where I stopped with the front end. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325216735 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325216735 I moved on to the rear and boy is that going to be a job. Got the diff ready to pull and really that is where it ended. Short day, but I have the next 4 days to work on it. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325216735 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325216735 I'll be removing all that rust from the diff, as well as the subframe and repainting. |
Lars, thanks for cleaning up this thread.
Alex, I wish my suspension looked as good as yours. Where did you buy the bushings from? I need to re-do my suspension, as I have highly noticeble vibration at around 80mph+. 159,000 miles, and all I ever replaced was the shocks, springs (junk Racing beat's...they're called that cause they're the most "beat" spring you could use), and FM sways. There is no way my stock control arm bushings are still good. |
Glad you asked. I got the bushings from our forum sponsor renown performance. They had a group buy sale. I went with the energy suspension, a bit more expensive than the super pro ones or whatever they are called. But I've heard ES is much better.
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Your pics of removing the bushings are better than the sticky, thanks! Will using the 7/16" rod after seeing your 3/8" sheared. I'll be removing mine today - so was renown the cheapest, or were you just supporting a MT vendor? Both is great, but I'm not one to bitch over much of a price difference.
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Originally Posted by GeneSplicer
(Post 812825)
Your pics of removing the bushings are better than the sticky, thanks! Will using the 7/16" rod after seeing your 3/8" sheared. I'll be removing mine today - so was renown the cheapest, or were you just supporting a MT vendor? Both is great, but I'm not one to bitch over much of a price difference.
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Originally Posted by GeneSplicer
(Post 812825)
Your pics of removing the bushings are better than the sticky, thanks! Will using the 7/16" rod after seeing your 3/8" sheared. I'll be removing mine today - so was renown the cheapest, or were you just supporting a MT vendor? Both is great, but I'm not one to bitch over much of a price difference.
Also found that when using an impact the threads would strip a bit on the threaded pipe. So I recommend just going slow with a wrench. |
Holy poop stain. Installing these bushings is actually harder than the removal. Even after thorough cleaning these bushings do not want to go in. And getting the metal cylinder in there involves me physically abusing them with a hammer for 10 minutes. Then I usually have to use a bolt to clamp them all the way in. And even then they barely fit back into the subframe. And getting them into position involves more whacking. My back is killing me.
I'll probably have some pictures up of todays work in a bit. Need food and rest. |
I remember putting bushings like those on aftermarket control arms for a chevy s10. It was a pain in the ass and took patience and lots of pabst blue ribbon to get the job done.
I don't really look forward to doing it again, but I will in the name of high performance. |
Honestly I really worry about these things squeaking. I was conservative with the lube at first because I wasn't sure how much I was going to have. I have progressively been using more, and I think I will run out on my last bushing. I'm considering installing zerk fittings, there are already holes in the control arms, so I would just need to thread in some fittings.
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Got mine out today, thanks - Yeah, you need to add the Zerks - that's my plan any way. http://949racing.com/installingzerkfittings.aspx
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Some photos (Going back in time on some of these as they are off a different camera):
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325312923 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325312923 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325312923 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325312923 |
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Diff oil... yuck, I'll be changing that out.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325312997 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325312997 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325312997 |
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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325313165
Washing them down for some more prepping. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325313165 Round 1: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325313165 |
Like the work you did on the subframe and control arms, completely changes the look underneath, it is well worth the time! Very nice pictures of the bushing install as well
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Im hoping the bushings completly change the feel of the car, in a good way :D
Very excited to get this thing back together. Unfortunately this thread will get a 5 week break thanks to work. Only 2 days left :*( |
Good looking car. I like how you get stuff done quick with quality parts and take lots of pictures in the process. Subscribing for future boosting goodness!
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I never. Ever. Want to do differential mounts again. Unfortunately this is the 3rd time I've done them. And probably won't be my last. Enjoy.
Step 1: Drill the frack out of these mounts like they owe you money. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325464113 Step 2: Jig saw. Like you've never jig sawed before. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325464113 Step 3:And keep doing it until this happens: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325464113 You should then get this: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325464113 From here the fun starts. You beat the ever living crap out of the metal inserts that are left. As you can see from the picture below, there is a crease, which if you get a nice sharp punch, you can just hammer down the middle of that crease. Do that on both sides, and then start pounding around the edges. Unfortunately all I had was a some beefy Snap On pry bars. And the handles reduced the blow to the mounts so much it took me forever. A few hammers into my thumb later I really hated life. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325464113 So if you did it right, your thumb will not be hurting, and you will have these: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325464113 Next clean all the rust and junk out. I used this: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325464113 Most of it out: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325464113 And finally grab your new bushings, ensure you are inserting them the correct way, and hammer the ef out of them with a mallet until they go all the way. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325464113 This is about all I did today. I was painting the rest of the sub-frame in between hitting my thumb with a hammer. The amount of flex that the old mounts had, vs the new ones is insane. I could rock the diff about 4 inches with the old mounts. New I can't really rock it at all. |
Originally Posted by Golferluke
(Post 813732)
Good looking car. I like how you get stuff done quick with quality parts and take lots of pictures in the process. Subscribing for future boosting goodness!
The front I'm waiting on inner/outer tie rods. Lower ball joints. Spindles. Hubs. and then I'll be putting that all back together as well. The engine is just about done. I need to drill out a few bolts that broke in the engine bay, as well as a bolt on the intake side of the EGR tube which happened a while ago when the RB downpipe was installed. I'll probably need two weekends when I get back from my trip in February before it's done. So probably March. |
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Careful with all that wacking. Seems like it didn't cause you any issues though. These were most likely more of a tolerance issue though.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1325481121 |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 813846)
Careful with all that wacking. Seems like it didn't cause you any issues though. These were most likely more of a tolerance issue though.
[sad face image] |
Well I don't have time to work on the car today. I leave at 4am tomorrow so looks like everything will be on hold until I get back. I'll update purchased parts at least though ;)
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Think those bushings would come out easier with a torch?? When it comes time to do mine, I'd rather not fight that hardcore. Did your differential bushings come with your kit?
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I did use heat. Not a whole lot, I used my little butane torch. Didn't seem to make a difference which is why I didn't mention it. With something a bit more powerful might be more successful. Yes the diff bushings came with the kit. Seems like the trick to these is just splitting bushing down on the creases. Once I reached the bottom they pretty much just fell out.
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Nice...I'm buying that kit then. I have an oxy/ acetylene torch, so I'll rock that. I also have "kroil" which is the awesomest penetrating oil known to man.
I wonder if those bushings will dramatically help with wheel hop, and also my vibration issue. I can't wait to hear your testimonial. |
There is a much easier way to remove/install the diff bushings. I did it on mine with the diff dropped down but not removed from the car. It is a variation of what you did with the control arm bushings, you press them out. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures as I spent so much time trying other methods I just wanted to get it done. Took maybe 10 minutes per side to remove and a little longer to install the new ones.
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Care to explain a bit more? I don't see how the control arm bushing method could work, it seriously took a beating to get those diff bush out.
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To remove them I used a two arm puller along with a 2 1/2" diameter (IIRC) spacer from my ball joint installation tool set along with a flat plate from the same kit. The spacer just fits into the inside of the diff bushing housing. The two arm puller clamps onto the lip on the bottom of the diff bushing housing and you use it to push the bushing out the top.
To install I put one bushing in and jacked up the diff until the car started to rise, then hit the bottom of the diff bushing housing using a piece of wood to get it started. Once that was done I used a BACC (big ass C-clamp, I'd have to double-check but I think it's an 8") along with a bigger spacer from the ball joint kit on the bottom. Two plates from the ball joint kit, one top and one bottom s the load. Then you just tighten the C-clamp and it will pull the bushing into place. If I can find where my wife hid my camera I'll lay things out to try and give you some idea of what I'm talking about, if the above doesn't do it. |
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