Originally Posted by Sean
(Post 488544)
i am using a drive shaft out of a 93 lexus sc300 witch are two piece so i will use the front half toyota and the back half mazda
you said you are using a w58 tranny as well right? this seems to be an extremely cheap setup if you ask me. i might consider this..but if i were to do it, id just go with the n/a 2jz for now until i had money for the turbo setup, or maybe source out an automatic 2jzgtte and attach a w58 tranny :) i used to own a sc300 and the stock motor was suprisingly peppy, could only imagine how it would be in a miata. |
Originally Posted by -Banks-
(Post 496014)
driveshaft from the sc300. you are using the sc300 manual driveshaft i presume?
you said you are using a w58 tranny as well right? this seems to be an extremely cheap setup if you ask me. i might consider this..but if i were to do it, id just go with the n/a 2jz for now until i had money for the turbo setup, or maybe source out an automatic 2jzgtte and attach a w58 tranny :) i used to own a sc300 and the stock motor was suprisingly peppy, could only imagine how it would be in a miata. |
Originally Posted by Sean
(Post 496882)
It is an extremely cheap setup when you find the parts in the right spot, and it is relatively cheap with stuff that anyone can find I got the motor for 100 bucks but only because a buddy of mine just did a swap on a 95na supra and he deals with these cars all the time so I have the advantage of having a lot of extra parts available to me. Reality is you can buy and engine harness ecu and trans for about $1100 and if you have a little skill and some tools at your disposal and the will to do it you can for under $2000. I paid $800 for my BP that broke and oil pump 2 months after I put it in. So for the extra money and time I can't go wrong. It also dose not hurt to have a friend as a machinist and another as a welder.
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Oh nice. These guys are right down the road from me. Sean how far are you from York Automotive?
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i was lookin at some of the pics for the motor swap and i couldnt help to notice how close the turbo came to the side of the engine bay, wat do you think you're gonna do to the bay to get intercooler piping to fit right?
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Originally Posted by MicaCeli
(Post 497925)
Oh nice. These guys are right down the road from me. Sean how far are you from York Automotive?
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Originally Posted by -Banks-
(Post 498097)
i was lookin at some of the pics for the motor swap and i couldnt help to notice how close the turbo came to the side of the engine bay, wat do you think you're gonna do to the bay to get intercooler piping to fit right?
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what are you gonna do for a downpipe and exhaust? obviously its gonna be custom, are you gonna bother routing it down the right side like it is stock? or gonna try and make it fit down the left?
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Originally Posted by disturbedfan121
(Post 498472)
what are you gonna do for a downpipe and exhaust? obviously its gonna be custom, are you gonna bother routing it down the right side like it is stock? or gonna try and make it fit down the left?
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any more progress? keep us updated!!! id love to see a video of this beast running!
did you mention your engine management yet? |
Originally Posted by -Banks-
(Post 498559)
any more progress? keep us updated!!! id love to see a video of this beast running!
did you mention your engine management yet? There is a lot of snow on the ground so it messed up the weekend a lil but I am waiting on a bunch of parts to come in and there will be much more progress near new years. I will get some pics when I get the other cars out of the garage and mine back on the lift I got all my fuel system stuff so Ill have pics of that too. The management is going to be a stock Toyota ECU with an APEXI SFAC and that should be good for 500hp witch I think is more than enough for the car.:p |
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Ok guys I know its been a while but I got to do some more work and I'll have even more pics tomorrow. Here is the pics of the new clutch installed and the fuel system re-ran to the drivers side of the engine compartment. I replace the whole feed side with -6 AN aluminum line and just re-bent the return line to where I needed it.
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Finally some pictures, this is like trying to watch porn through static
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Originally Posted by buffon01
(Post 505614)
Finally some pictures, this is like trying to watch porn through static
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I made a short list of all the things I've gotten to do this swap and the price just to entertain evreyone.
Engine - $100 Trans,Clutch,Flywheel - $400 Innovate LC-1 wideband - $100 Intercooler - $85 BOV E-bay typeRS - $25 Radiator(Civic 1/2 core) ALU- $65 Turbo,Wastegate,Dump pipe- $220 Boos Gauge Auto mete - Freebie Brembo Front Rotors - $45 Wilwood superlite calipers -$85 Oil feed line -$30 Oil return line - $100 Modified water neck - $20 Hardog Bar - $50 5-point RCI harnesses - Freebie Bulk Steel - $100 So far all in all not bad but I am an avid e-bay monster and cl deal hunter gotta keep it cheap somehow. |
this thread is very inspiring! :drool:
hey, with the ebay type rs bov (one of the best ebay blow off valves i might add, depending on the manufacturer,) if the diapragm ever breaks, you can always fix it yourself on the cheap. DIY: Rebuild your ebay Greddy type-s/rs bov for $3.19 - D-series.org in for video of the motor in miata on the first fire up! and will the miata gauge cluster work fine with the 2j motor? if not, i think you should fab a gauge cluster like so: http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/6394/img0747fg4.jpg |
i am deff suscribed! i have been thinking of this for a while.
for the guys talking about handling? wouldnt using a Rear sump version of this motor be better of? if your using a front sump oilpan i assume you just mounted the engine over the steering rack...with a rear sump pan i am sure you can drop it a few inches lowering the center of gravity thus making it handle much better? as long as you pus the motor as far back as possible i dont see you hurting the handling much more than your average V8. ls1 just has the advantage of the alum heads/block. |
Originally Posted by Jeepster118
(Post 505820)
i am deff suscribed! i have been thinking of this for a while.
for the guys talking about handling? wouldnt using a Rear sump version of this motor be better of? if your using a front sump oilpan i assume you just mounted the engine over the steering rack...with a rear sump pan i am sure you can drop it a few inches lowering the center of gravity thus making it handle much better? as long as you pus the motor as far back as possible i dont see you hurting the handling much more than your average V8. ls1 just has the advantage of the alum heads/block. A rear sump would have worked better as you will see in pics soon but it would have only sat down another inch and I didn't want to spend the 500 on the pan. But it would have saved me some pounds in front of the crossmember. |
moar pics please!
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Originally Posted by WonTon
(Post 505871)
moar pics please!
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