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94 Brilliant Black on Road to Glory
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I purchased a 94 Brilliant Black with 140K miles on it for 2K at the beginning of May. Ultimate goal is to get a turbo in it, and have some fun doing it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401370215 Starting Status:
Immediate Fixes
I drove it for a couple weeks and then moved to the next phase.
The MS3 from Reverant was plug and play, and the playing was a lot of fun. The MS3 worked great, engine feels and sounds better, and I am enjoying the learning experience. Only issue was the magic box for the wideband to CAN. My AFR's were varying from what the AEM gauge displayed, they were spot on around 14.7, but the further away, the larger the drift. Reverant is looking into, hopefully this will get resolved soon. Last weekend I pulled off the front bumper cover in order to repair a crack, several dents, and paint it (was in a dull black primer, it had obviously been replaced before). By goal for this car is for it to look nice from twenty feet away, not a show car... Having said that, I fiberglassed the crack, repaired the dents, and got a couple coats of paint on it. Paint was sourced from AutomotiveTouchup.com. The paint matched well (not real obvious in photo), however I need a couple more cans, it currently does not have enough coats on it. And, will need some additional wet sanding as well... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401370215 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401370215 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401370215 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401370215 Next step in the process is COPS. I have sourced the COPs and tested them, working on getting together some wiring goodies before I plug it all together. Wiring the IGN C and IGN D pins from MS3. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401370215 Spark Test https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401370215 Two pictures after wheels were painted, but before bumper repair. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401370215 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401370215 |
As I mentioned in my first post, I have sourced a set of Toyota COPs, and they have been bench tested. I am running wires from MS3 behind the seats to the engine bay. At that point, I plan on joining the other ignition wires at the existing coil pack, and using the standard wiring outlined in the COP thread.
However, I have found a secondary connector that connects all 5 ignition wires to the two connectors at the coil pack. After a bunch of searching, this looks like a 6-pin connector from Sumitomo DL Sealed Series, and is only available from Eastern Beaver, or a junk yard loom. So, I can either pull mine apart and splice in, or try and find a connector. Realistically, this car is never going back to stock, so at this point I think I should just bite the bullet, man up, and pull the coil pack and start hacking into the harness. Or, I can keep trying to track down a connector, or try and pull pins and re-stuff them. Heading out of town for a couple days, so no need to make an immediate decision. And, I still have work to do on getting the bumper painted, wet sanded, and polished. |
Welcome, pictures no worky :(
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No pix for me either.
Sounds like you're doing it right. |
Pics worked yesterday, so something got moved.
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Thanks, should be fixed now.
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Alright!! Another mature person. LOL.
Show us your Lotus too. Now that you're MS'd, you should check out the cold air box I built for the red car (it's a normally aspirated '95 for tracking). In the build thread. |
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My current plan is to do a cowl induction like in your first thread.
I let my daughter drive the Lotus most of the time, she is a better driver than I am... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401375864 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401375864 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401375864 |
Quality intro thread. Welcome to here.
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Ha! Cute.
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Wired up my Toyota COPS tonight. Did it quick and dirty, spliced and twisted some wires just so I could test my config. Was rewarded with an immediate start-up. I currently have configured as wasted spark, will add IGN C+D tomorrow night to the mix, and if working correctly, I will wire them up properly.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401761215 My understanding is that : Spark A goes to Cylinder 1 Spark B goes to Cylinder 3 Spark C goes to Cylinder 4 Spark D goes to Cylinder 2 In Tuner Studio, it looks like I just need to switch Number of Coils from wasted spark to coil on plug. My nominal dwell is current set to 2.3ms (MS3). I ended up pulling the stock coil pack and wiring directly into the ignition wires. Worked like a champ. |
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Progress this week consisted of wiring up the COPS and programing them to run Sequential in Tuner Studio. I also fabricated a hold-down bracket that I am pretty happy with. Used a sheet of aluminum, drilled the proper holes, and it all actually worked out nicely.
I have my wiring complete, just need to finish up the triggers, and wrap in a wire loom. I bought some ballerz red wire loom at advanced auto, and I plan to use allofit. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402105808 While under the car the other day, I noticed this. Pretty damn sure I need a bolt in there. Makes me wonder at what point in the last twenty years it went missing. Looks like a M12 something, but nothing I have fits... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402105808 Hoping to finish up bumper this weekend and start on my air intake, I plan on going into the cowl, have a feeling it may not be pretty... |
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Activities completed this weekend:
Finished up repainting bumper, looks good from 20 feet away, not so much up close. Lesson learned is to just pay a body shop, but oh well. I also changed the transmission fluid, used the Ford Unicorn Jizz. May just be in my head, but shifts seem much smoother, 2nd and 3rd were not great before the change. I completed my wiring for the COPs, the red loom looks fancy. I also punched a hole in my firewall and have the cold intake installed. First drive resulted in some odd fuel cut-out issues, but I disabled launch control and that seemed to resolve the issue. After that problem, the car ran very well. The intake temps were noticeably lower than I was seeing before, usually only a couple degrees higher than ambient temp, this is 20-30 degrees lower than I was seeing before. And, the intake growl is awesome... Here are some of pictures of the engine compartment. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402411695 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402411695 I am curious what is behind this black box? It looks like a couple relays, have not had a chance to trace back the wires. Anyone know? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402411695 In my last post, I had a picture of a bolt that was missing on one of the rear suspension braces. I sourced the correct bolt, and while starting to torque it, the captive nut broke free (was probably rusted from being exposed to elements). So now I have a loose bolt stuck in the captive nut that does not appear to be accessible. Will need to figure out a solution to that... Open to any ideas.... |
Options:
1. Cut out the sheet metal and weld in a patch panel with a new nut. 2. Remove the bracing and call it "lightening." 3. Don't worry about it. |
Love that sound...
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I am going with don't worry about it for now. Will wait for a great idea, or just dump a tube of JB Weld on it, that should hold right?
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Last two weeks have involved driving and tuning, adding lightness, and general clean up. I have been using the car as my DD as much as possible, and have been impressed with the drivability and overall fun factor. Switching back to the Lotus reminds me the handling still sucks, and driving the Infiniti reminds me the car is still slow, but somehow it still has been a blast to drive around in.
In search of lightness, I have started removing everything in the engine bay that is not controlled by the MS3. Not sure I have saved a ton of weight, but it has cleaned up the look. The power quest got side tracked with a sound quest. The stock stereo was not going to cut it for commuter duty. The stock speakers were blown, headrest speakers not working at all, and in addition my speaker grills were a mess of rusted ugliness. I upgraded to a Alpine CDE-143BT with a Alpine KTP-445A amplifier. I have the same setup in the Lotus, so I knew what I was getting into, and figured it would help to have similar control placement in both cars. For speakers, I went with Alpine SPS-610 in the doors, and Kicker DS35 in the headrests. I bought some grills off of E-Bay that claim to be from a Jaguar XJ and fit the Miata. They actually worked very well, and look good. Most everything was plug and play, and it sounds great. I did have to rewire the headrest speakers as the wiring had been ripped up. In Progress https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403356479 Trashing the Old https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403356479 New Speaker Grills https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403356479 Full install https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403356479 When I pulled the console, I was greeted to double ripped gear shift boots. Not surprising I guess on a 20 year old car with 140K on it. After reading a bunch, I decided to do a full turret refresh, and picked up the parts at Rosenthal. When reading, there seemed to be a lot of confusion on parts required. This is what I went with, I replaced all plastic bushings, both wavy washers, and both boots. The lower boot is listed as for a NC, but works fine on my 94. BOOT,DUST (R501-17-47Z) BUSH (M501-17-515) BUSHING, SHIFTER (0398-17-462A) INSULATOR (NA01-64-481B) INSULATOR,LEVER (M501-17-501) 2 WASHER,WAVE (M505-17-482) 2 I would not have called the shifting sloppy before, but I noticed an immediate improvement, the shifting is perfect now. Wish the Lotus felt like this... And, last comfort replacement were two new pedal pads, the old ones were gone, so $10 well spent. I guess that is all, next power projects will be ExIntake which has already been sourced, and fuel injectors. I have been looking to find a deal on some used fuel injectors, but have not seen any bargains. At this point I am thinking of just playing it safe and getting some plug and play Fuel Injector Clinic 650ccs. That is assuming I don't break down and blow my budget first on a new top. Last week I lost a gorilla tape patch while hitting 80mph down I-70... |
Originally Posted by gjsmith66
(Post 1142035)
hitting 80mph down I-70...
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Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1142039)
I went to USNA and U of MD for an advanced degree...
I live in a rural section, so on I-70 you can definitely get moving. However, I work down in VA and have to battle the beltway, so, a stereo is definitely needed. Thanks for your service. Given your handle, did you fly F-18s? |
USNA BSAE in '85 (received from Ronaldus Magnus himself).
U of MD MSAE in '86. Finished flight training in late '87 and flew 18s after that. They were band-spanking new back then. My ship (Saratoga, CV-60) was not new but was always in the thick of it. |
The Saratoga set a lot of records in the Gulf, some good, some bad I guess.
Maybe we should get you this hat, you know, since you served in the Air Force... :-) |
Yeah, lost some friends. Knew a couple of guys that died on that ferry. Scott Speicher was also a good friend. Another friend, Jeff Zaun ("Zule") made the cover of Time magazine all beat up as a POW. We didn't get fresh vegetables in the Red Sea and all my hazardous duty pay went to paying my wardroom dues for bad food, LOL. Lots of Suez canal transits.
Air Force? LOL! They stayed at the Hilton. And they probably got per diem too. |
So, I spent another couple weeks enjoying the weather and the Miata. However, as the temperatures went up, it was clear that the gorilla tape was overmatched at keeping the top hole free.
So, I broke down and ordered up a cheap Ebay top. I spent the other day stripping the top off of a used NB frame that I bought on CL, and then pulled the old frame and top off the Miata. The package tray and other hidden bits all seemed to be in pretty good shape. I clean some rust off the fuel tank cover and threw some Rustoleum at it, also cleaned up the retaining rails. Today I will clean out the drains, although I was surprised that they were not too crudded up, looks like the OP may have recently cleaned them. Not like the ten pounds of crap that came out of the front fenders... Top should arrive early this week, and then we will see how much of a challenge it will be to get it installed. http://www.z-car.com/miata/IMG_3517.jpg http://www.z-car.com/miata/IMG_3519.jpg http://www.z-car.com/miata/IMG_3520.jpg |
Those covers are in good shape. I put an E-bay special with a glass window on my Silver car back in 2006. No problems. Still like new.
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I used an E-Bay zippered plastic window top and I have no complaints!
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I have been patiently awaiting my new top over the weekend, it should be here tomorrow. Hopefully the new tension cables will show up at the same time.
This weekend I did some more cleaning of the back sill, and took the opportunity to swap out the original clutch master and slave cylinders. The fluid was black when I got the car, clearly it had never been flushed. Replacement parts were cheap, so I did the full swap. The slave was a bit of a pain to mess with, either I was reaching in through the sub-frame, or laying underneath having fluid drip in my eyes.... I also tossed in a couple cans of r134a, I knew the A/C felt a bit weak, but was surprised to see 20 low /150 high. After two cans it is up to 35 low/ 215 high. Probably could do one more can. I noticed on my low pressure cap that there was no flat rubber washer. Standard, or is mine missing? Will update thread on my new top experience. |
Clutch fluid turns dark quickly. Not sure why . . . I think it's from the plunger material in the slave. In any case, it won't stay clear like brake fluid does.
Rain rail in good shape? |
Either way, after 20 years, it was a safe bet to replace them, but I have noticed that as well.
Rain rail was not in bad shape, but I went ahead and got a top with a new rail. For most items, I would rather do it right the first time. |
More pictures and details to follow, but had to post these pictures today. Finished up the top last night, best $189 I have spent in a while. Overall it came out just about perfect, especially given the price. Now I can spend the difference on some new 650cc FICs...
http://www.z-car.com/miata/IMG_3578.jpg http://www.z-car.com/miata/IMG_3579.jpg |
What a difference!
BTW, recommend downsampling your pics to 800x600 before uploading. |
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It has been a couple weeks since I last posted, I mostly have been enjoying the ride. And, while I have a nice clean top now, the weather has been so perfect that I have been top down almost everyday this month.
Changes to the car this month included new Kosei K-1 wheels and Yokohama SDrives 205/50/-15. I got a great deal from an Acura fan on craigslist, and none too soon. The original crappy walmart tires were no longer cutting it, especially with the number of miles I have been putting on the car. So, I now have some much grippier tires, and the wheels looks nice as well. The 15 inch rim will give me more tire options going forward. http://www.z-car.com/miata/IMG_3625.jpg In addition, I also installed an ExhIntake that I picked up a couple months back. The main driver for cracking open the valve cover was that I had a nice leak in the back, I figured while I was cleaning that up, I may as well swap the cam. The overall project was much easier than I expected, the whole process, including realigning the time belt was probably two hours, and that includes realizing that the previous owner had somehow lost the alternator adjusting bolts, and had just bolted it to the arm. http://www.z-car.com/miata/IMG_3612.jpg http://www.z-car.com/miata/IMG_3614.jpg While in there, I noticed that the timing belt had a nice slice in it, so a new belt will be swapped in this week, along with the new alternator adjusting bolts. Thanks Arlington Mazda, it is nice to work so close to them... http://www.z-car.com/miata/IMG_3616.jpg I don't have definitive results on the ExhIntake swap, I am still in the process of retuning. It certainly has not hurt performance. Next on the agenda are swapping injectors to FIC 650cc units, and I am in the process of building a set of Bilstein coil-overs. I had originally planned on doing the turbo before suspension, however the stock ride is just not getting it done, especially after driving the Lotus for a day. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1406830887 I also am buying a de-powered power steering rack. It currently does not have the spool welded, so I will need to figure out how to get that done as well... |
Ok, I have to make a confession... I made one of the bigger dumb headed moves in quite a while. I probably should pretend it never happened, however I figured I would fess up in case anyone else ever wonders why their car won't start.
Yesterday I decided to swap out the old fuel injectors for the new FIC 650cc's. This is probably the last step I will take on the engine before adding the turbo. I have read a ton, both in swapping the injectors, and updating the MS3. I felt pretty confident, so I went at it. I pulled the fuel pump relay, and let the car idle until stall. I then pulled the old injectors, I didn't even lose a spacer, I loosened up all the bolts, then used some long needle nose pliers to hold the spacer while removing the bolt. Lubed up the new injectors, and I was out with old and in with the new in about 30 minutes. Super painless. I went into the MS3, changed the req fuel from 12.9 to 4.7. Turned the key and after several cranks, nothing. Went through everything in my mind, but nothing, no fuel or vacuum leaks, no obvious issues. I was able to get the car semi-running by turning req fuel up to 65 when cranking, then dynamically lowering it to 20 while idling. It would run rough and AFR's jumped all over no matter what I tried. After an hour or so, I gave up and went out and had dinner and beer with GF. So today, I head out to garage and try again. I reset the MS3 back to a good tune, updated req fuel, and still had same symptoms. After messing a bit, I decided I must have screwed up the install so decided to pull off the new injectors. First step, pull the fuel relay. As I look up the steering column I am shocked to see the pump relay unplugged.... WTF? Plugged it in, car fired right up and after some minor tuning, is purring like a kitten. Yes, I now know that you can get the car to run in siphon mode, but runs like shit... First really stupid mistake on this project, but I am sure not the last... |
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A couple weeks back I picked up a used Spec Miata suspension off CL for an unbelievable price. I decided to upgrade to NB top hats and give the crazy 700/325 springs a try. I figured if it beat the crap out of me I would just get some QA1 springs at a lower rate.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409174938 While doing the tophat conversion, I added 36mm MCU bump stops all around. Final height after swapping over was 11.75, 12.25. First drives were amazing, totally transformed the handling, however the first week trying to daily drive it was not that much fun. The rear was bouncing off the bump stops at speed, which was not much fun... The front (with the 700lb springs) actually never had any issues, did not hit the bump stops, and the front-end handled the dips with no issues. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409174938 So, this past weekend I popped it back up to 13.25, 13.75. That 1 1/2 inch made a huge difference in the back. No more visits to the bump stops, and still handles well. The car certainly does not have a cushy ride, but it is not bad to drive at all. Of course, my other car is an Elise, so take it for what it is worth. For about $400 investment, I am pretty damn happy with it. On the comfort side, I wrapped my cracked uncomfortable console cover with memory foam and leather. One of the best $20 I have spent on the car so far... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409174938 All the items I wanted to complete before adding a turbo are now finished. However, I have a leak down tester on order from Amazon. My engine has 145K miles on it, and when checking the compression I get 180, 135, 125, 155. Dumping oil down the cylinder does not help any of the readings. I have a feeling that the engine was over-heated in the not too distant past as all the hoses and belts were all replaced at the same time. My guess is that they blew a line and replaced them all. It did not seem like they spent money on maintenance unless something was broken... Even with the low compression, the car runs fine, no oil consumption in 5K miles, no water loss, runs cool, no water/oil cross contamination. So, depending on what the tester says, I am probably looking at head gasket or a valve. Need to decide if worth addressing now, or just turboing it and when it blows up swap in a VVT engine. Makes me lean towards just going turbo now. Decisions, decisions... |
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Shit just got real...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409860505 Bought a 2004 VVT with 68K on it with 6-speed... Now time to swap out my tired old motor. Did a cold leak-down and got 90%+ on all cylinders. Start prepping everything for the swap is in progress. VTCS delete and 99 fuel rail with 94 damper is the first step. Currently labeling all wiring and connectors. Wish me luck... |
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Plan of Action
Steps on new Engine before pulling old Ream valve cover for COPS Remove Engine Remove VTSC After Pull, Before install Attach new fuel rail for test fit with hose - Bought a 1.6 FPR, 1.8 is supposed to work with mods, the 2004 Tracker FPR looks like best if bought new, nipples point up and down. After new engine inSwap oil pressure sender Swap Coolant Sensors - two in back Swap exhaust manifold Replace Engine Mounts - Competition vs MSM vs Stock? Connect Cam Sensor Girls are ready to start pulling that engine.Connect Crank Sensor Connect VVT - Get Power and Trigger from FPR valve and wire to harness? Pin 23 -Yellow/Green on ECU - MS Pin 36 Connect TPS and IAC Connect Knock Sensor - MS Pin 33 Connect Throttle Cable - Sourced NB Connect Fuel Line - Sourced Quick Connect, Gates 27348 Rebuild Tran Shifter - Sourced shifter, inner boot Remove or Modify the starter bracket. Connect Power Steering, A/C, Alternator, Starter, Clutch Slave https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410273740 |
I think I also plan to tap the oil pan now for turbo oil return line while engine is out, should be easier, right? Idea is to do 3/8NPT and plug for now. Smart or stupid?
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Reroute?
I've never heard of anyone reaming the valve cover for COPS. ?? |
The spark plug holes on the VVT head are slightly smaller than the Toyota COP width. They need to be enlarged slightly to fit.
Good Description of Issue Here |
And, in a perfect world, I would do the coolant re-route now. However, I do not want to open up the engine and swap head gaskets right now. In addition, I have read some conflicting info on if needed if I am not running 100% FI at the track, which is not in my immediate plans.
Thanks for the suggestion, it made me at least think about it again! |
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Engine out
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410788181 Now has two sister power https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410788181 Son helping slide the new one in. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1410788181 Still finishing up the wiring, but all in all the swap went pretty smooth this weekend. I do have one question however, is it even possible to put a new engine in without smashing the coolant sensor? Definitely should have swapped it after the install. Seems inevitable that that sensor will hit the firewall no matter how careful, or, I just suck at maneuvering 300lb engines. |
I've never smashed the coolant sensor, but it has always been well protected by the coolant reroute waterneck.
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Originally Posted by gjsmith66
(Post 1165453)
I think I also plan to tap the oil pan now for turbo oil return line while engine is out, should be easier, right? Idea is to do 3/8NPT and plug for now. Smart or stupid?
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Luckily a new coolant sensor was available at Advanced Auto, and only cost $20 or so. Even after buying drill and tap, I chickened out on tapping the oil pan. My thinking was that if the engine stuck a rod through the block after I started it, I would always wonder, did I buy a bad engine, or did a shaving travel through my bearings and screw me. So, I will deal with that when the turbo shows up.
The good news is that the engine fired up on the second try. Only issue was the need to switch MS3 Ignition Input Capture from falling to rising edge. Once I made that change, bam, it fired right up. Took the car for a quick spin, love the new six speed, and amazingly the car had no leaks or issues. Still need to hook up the VVT and Knock sensor, that is the final step and this process will be complete. Never could have done it so quick without Reverant and the definitive VVT thread by Savington. |
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So, I have not posted in a long while. This is because I had the misfortune of getting rear-ended by a brand new Telsa S on the DC beltway. It has taken a year and a half to negotiate a settlement on my total loss, and I am still working on an injury settlement, so I will not go into too much detail on that.
In Nov 2014, I was minding my business in stop and go traffic when the Tesla S behind me decided to stop paying attention. I definitely felt all 4,647 pounds as it tried to imprint its license payment as clearly as possible into my bumper.... This is what the car looked like shortly after getting home. Bumper destroyed (notice blue license plate imprint), finisher cracked, trunk would not open because the mount had gotten pushed back. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460656199 Underneath the diff mount snapped like they all do, and the frame rail from the bumper mounting point was accordioned for about 2-3 inches. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460656199 Laser cats not happy about the carnage. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460656199 So, first step to fixing was swapping the diff mount with a RX-7 mount. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460656199 Ultimately I ended up pulling the trunk, getting a new bumper and cover, and patching up the finisher. Within two weeks I had it back to 96%. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1460656199 Of course the insurance company totaled the car. However, the car was basically in perfect shape, I had just completely replaced the drivetrain and suspension. Dealing with the insurance company has been a pain, but I ended up putting 20K miles on Miata since the accident, and just received payment for my loss. And, the best part is I bought the car back for salvage, so in the end I got my Miata for free. I have done minimal work on the car since the accident, mainly because I was not sure what would ultimately be its fate. But, now that the loss has been settled, I am moving forward with the next part of my build. |
I honestly don't see what's so "green" about Teslas. I've got an overly liberal friend (would be a staunch conservative in MD) who's just gaga about them.
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I have to admit I always thought they were pretty damn cool, but after having met one in a violent collision, I look at them a bit differently now. And, while I have always despised tail gaters, I now have a burning hatred for them.... Even if it did get me a free Miata, without Bernie's help...
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So, I have been daily driving my car for the last year or so, and after my accident I have been more cognisant of trying to make the little Miata more visible. We also have a lot of divided highway out this way that require head lights to be on, and the cops enforce it. I hate raising the barn doors, and if I just turn on my parking lights, they don't really do much, and I always forget that I left them on. So, I decided to get a couple smoked replacement lights ($50 on Ebay for a pair), and modify them. I opened up the unused half of the light and used a LED for the parking and turn signal, and used the main bay with a H11 LED. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461625983
As you can see, it worked out pretty well. I wired in a relay that turns them on whenever the the car is in Run, instant DRL. I also wired the side markers to flash with the turn signals. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461625983 Then I did this... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461625983 To this... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1461625983 |
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So, I finished my power steering delete this past weekend. I took a spare rack and completely gutted it, along with removing the spool valve. What I did do that was unorthodox, and pictured in one my previous pictures, was to use JB Weld to get rid of the pinion slop. I know most folks either leave as-is, or weld them up, however I felt like there were potential disadvantages, even though I know that there are a lot of cars (including lots of Spec Miatas) doing both ways. My theory is that if the internal portion of the pinion, and the key-way are filled with epoxy, this would essentially create a solid pinion.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462584164 I picked up some Acetone, Carb Cleaner,syringes, and JB Weld at my favorite Tractor Supply. Interestingly, you now have to show ID to buy both carb cleaner and acetone... I thoroughly cleaned the pinion, and used the syringes to flood it with acetone. After it dried, I plugged up all but one of the openings at the top. After mixed up some JB Weld with a VERY small amount of acetone, I sucked it up with a syringe. I then slowly injected it into one hole, rotating the pinion as I went. It slowly oozed out of the key-way, and I rotated the pinion to keep from dripping all over the place. I used some plastic sheet to tightly wrap it, secured with tape. I let it set for 48 hours, and then removed the plastic. As you can see above, it completely sealed the whole pinion. After that was complete, the rest was easy. I removed the old rack, the boots and tie rods were all actually in awesome shape for a car with 170K on the chassis. I find it hard to believe the previous owner would have replaced them, but who knows... Anyhow, I replaced inner rods, boots, and swapped in the R tie rod ends (last purchase from Rosenthal before they shut down). I got my toe-in set, and put some miles on it. The feel is incredible, and I am glad I was able to get the power steering pump removed before the turbo happens. I should also thank @sixshooter for posting the belt required for running the A/C without an idler pulley. "I'm running the AC compressor right off the crank pulley. Find the right belt. Here it is: 4PK0775 or 5040305" https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462584164 |
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I have put a couple hundred miles on my JB Welded steering rack pinion, and so far no issues. I even lucked out and my tape measure toe-in appears to have gotten me close, and the steering wheel is actually centered now. I was actually hoping that I would get some comments that I was crazy to JB Weld my steering rack together... Although I have been very happy putting 30K miles on my budget Bilstein coil-overs, I do plan on making a couple further changes to my suspension in the next few months, so I will hold off getting a real alignment until those are complete. My lower ball-joints definitely look like they could use some love, and I am thinking about some extended top-hats in the rear so I can lower the car another half inch or so and still stay off the bump-stops.
Last weekend I was able to score a set of Minty MSM seats from @airbrush1, my old seats were a bit worn, and I really wanted to get some extra head support in case I ever get rear-ended again. Because I daily this car, and need some tunes for the ride, I really wanted to keep my headrest speakers. So, a couple hog-rings later, I pulled the covers and cut into some pristine MSM foam. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463529443 This location was perfect, the speakers fit in nicely, and it actually ends up about neck level. A little extra foam over the top, a couple zip-ties, and it was all ready to go into the car. I cleaned out 20 years of crap under the driver's seat, and was thankful that I did not find any hidden signs of rust. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463529443 In the end, I was very happy with the result... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463529443 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463529443 |
Really enjoying this build. Sucks to about the wreck.
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I want to be your friend
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Do you want to be friends, or "friends"?
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It has been a little over a year since my last update, however I should have a bunch more shortly. I recently sold my house, and while I am losing a ton of garage space (and yard space), it has helped free up some cash for the next phase of my build. Three years, and 40K miles, after I picked this sucker up, it is finally going to get a turbo.
I pulled the Trigger on a MKTurbo, I have the order in with Lars and am hoping to have it in my hands by the end of July. I also started the process by getting a nice shiny Vibrant intercooler that will be getting installed shortly. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...364400b71.jpeg |
Finally!
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One of the downsides of moving is that I needed to put the Lotus into storage. My original plan was to sell it to help fund a place down in Clearwater, FL. But, everytime I drive it, I change my mind and decide to hold on to it for a little while longer. This picture was taken on the way to storage, seems as if the more things change, the more they stay the same...
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a4f2a57f42.jpg |
Just curious, what would you be asking if you did sell?
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I would not sell for less than 30K. Will probably list at 35K. It has a hardtop, and while I put 50K miles on it, they were mostly easy miles, no track time. It also is a fairly rare color, and never had any body damage. Hard to find an unmolested early Elise anymore.
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That Elise is gorgeous.
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Although I have a couple weeks before my MKTurbo arrives, I have started working on installing the intercooler, IAT, and piping. I went with the FAB9 Vibrant intercooler. I know, I know, I could have bought the same unit on Amazon for $100 less. However, I did not want to fiddle around fabbing the support brackets, so I pushed the easy button. I have heard the horror stories with FAB9 customer service, however the unit arrived in three days, and looks great.
The first step was removing the front bumper and my baby teeth which were still on the car. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...62125ddf85.jpg Then I test fit the unit. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...99db63771b.jpg I plan on installing the IAT on the cold side of the intercooler. I have marked where I plan on placing it. I will start drilling tomorrow after work, so please let me know if I am making a critical mistake. Or, just say, yep, that is where it goes. On Lars advice I will be running 2" pipe on both the hot and cold side. They are on order, hopefully will get here by the weekend. Has anybody ever run an intercooler N/A? I wonder what it will do to my temps if anything. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...56e7ad0bd4.jpg |
*interfooler
Should help a bit, but... :dunno: |
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