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Old 11-14-2010, 08:59 PM   #1
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Default absRTP' B6T built

Hi, I'm on this forum for over a year and I never even started a build treads,

so here we go!

This is how the car was when I bought it in August 2009

It was red in 1990, now it's Burned Orange

When I bought it:



No mods, except powersteering deleted





I rebuilt the engine in May 2010 because the engine was drinking 1 Gal of oil every 1000 km (600 miles)

So that's how it was when I took it out!














Rebuilding / Cleaning :



the timing belt was about to give up


I bought this little tool in a local Autoparts




And, ready to go



Then; Turbo shitzzz











as it stand right now:

dirty


Clean




So, here is what I put in that beauty

Engine / Tranny
Magnacore KV85 wires
Innovate LC-1 wideband
Standalone Megasquirt I PCB 3.0 (build by my self)
460cc RX7 Injectors (soon to be replaced with some 750cc Denso Deatsch Werks Injectors)
626 mazda oem oil filter (taller than the standart one)
Twin radiator fan Flyin Miata
1.8 Fidanza flywheel 8lbs (no clutch yet)
BOSCH Vtps BMW E34
Toyota COP (soon to be installed)
Walbro 190 lph HP

Turbo stuff
Garrett T25 (from a SR20, soon to be updated with 2860RS impellers)
2.5" Begi SSSP downpipe
Begi exhaust manifold
Flyin Miata Stainless Steel 2.5" exhaust line (no cat, no resonator)
Arc-TECH complet oil and water turbo lines
turboXS TYPE-H bov

Wheels / Suspension
205-50 r15 Yokohama S Drive on mx-3 15" wheels

Interior
2001 sports seats

Body
1994 hard top with defroster



This car is being built to became a track *****, on a student budget

I drive it at 7 psi on 94 octane pump fuel

I'm gonna need a big dyno tune
And my goal is to do more than 250 whp



Thanks for watching!
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Old 11-14-2010, 10:05 PM   #2
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Wow, an instant build.

Quote:
I rebuilt the engine in May 2010 because the engine was drinking 1 Gal of oil every 1000 km (600 miles)
LOL, was that a Canadian gallon of oil?

That looks like a nice clean build!
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Old 11-14-2010, 10:22 PM   #3
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Their is no Canadian Gallon :-P

Our units are suppose to be Metrics not imperial, so I would say 3.78L which is an American Gallon, we also bought mils in bag! eheh


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Old 11-14-2010, 11:02 PM   #4
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lol @ the milk info

sell me your hard top ,now
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:27 PM   #5
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NEWS!!

I now have a superb clutch kit!

Flyin Miata Happy Meals stage 2

And some nice clear bumper signal light

One months until I can start to work on this thing again!!!


That's how it stand right now

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Old 02-16-2011, 12:29 AM   #6
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Nice car. I really like your coolant feed line setup to the turbo.
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:16 AM   #7
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Arc-TECH stuff's!

I love it too, totally worth the price I paid for!
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Old 02-16-2011, 05:30 PM   #8
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Beau petit set up combien de Hp poussait tu comme il etais ?
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:28 PM   #9
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Comme il était, tu veux dire avant que je mettre le turbo?

Je suppose 70-80 au roue avec beaucoup de chance.......
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:33 PM   #10
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avec le turbo et toute sur les 440cc
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Old 04-11-2011, 04:26 PM   #11
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First start of the year!






(Next to my all seasons DD)

And the season as started last week!

:-)
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Old 05-06-2011, 09:56 PM   #12
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Hard work tonight, making the rollbar fit


But I had a big surprise when I remove the metal plate between the fuel tank and the wall behind the seat.

Two road flares!!!

How the hell the previous owners had the "briliant" idea to put them there, just beside the fuel tank..... It's not an easy access area....

Plus, one of them cracked due to humidity...











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Old 06-20-2012, 12:53 PM   #13
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Little update, this is where I am now.

After the rebuild, I drove the car for about 20 000 miles with a non-working properly wideband, I mean, it was'nt working at all, so it was burning rich as hell.


Everything was drivable until August last summer, I had a coolant leak from the intake manifold due to loose nuts. After this, problems started to arrive, the coolant started to become darker (presence of oil I assume) and presence of coolant appeared in oil....

It was hard to get from 65mph to 75mph with foot down.
The compression was bad (from 145 to 185, can't remember which one were the baddest)
I was able to drive for 20-25 minutes in city without overheating, but as soon as I was doing highway, the coolant temp would reach out 224 fahrenheit (readed with the megasquirt), every time it happens, I had to stop on the side of the road, put the heater at maximum heat and open the hoods to help the fan cool the engine down.

(This was during warm summer day, here in Montreal, around 85-90 F)



So, I decided to pull the head off yesterday to see what was there and the prep the head for a flatness check at a machine shop.

I was surprised to see all of this carbon buildup and was expecting a clearly blown headgasket, but it seems to be "OK".


Here are the shots of what I did yesterday.


Head :



Block :




Assuming the cylinder order on a 1990 1.6L miata is like that:



Closer shots :

Cylinder 1, head side:


Cylinder 2, head side:


Cylinder 3, head side:


Cylinder 4, head side:



Cylinder 1, block side:


Cylinder 2, block side:


Cylinder 3, block side:


Cylinder 4, block side:




What I am going to do:
-Have the head prep then check for flatness
-Have to block prep for new head gaskets and clean the surface of the pisons
-New Felpro composite head gasket
-New ARP head bolt
-Now I have a working wideband that I tested lately!
-What else?



So, what else do you think I should take care of? Does this even make sense?

*note, the head gasket was an egay one.



Bonus shot (why not taking advantage of hot summer days, the longest one of the summer, time of the picture was 8:45 pm) :
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:00 PM   #14
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Do you have the head alignment dowels? I do not see them stuck in the block or head...
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:44 PM   #15
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to be honest, I don't remember having seen dowel pins on a 1.6 short nose, I teared down this engine twice and did two others (friends cars)

Do they exist on 1.6?
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:54 PM   #16
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I have never seen an engine NOT have them from the factory.

Believe it or not, with out them it alows the HG to move.

I have a buddy who was popping a HG every 500 miles or so on his Protege, 3 times till I looked and saw his were missing, FE engine/FS9 head, same happened to another guy I know on his 626m FE engine/FS2 head.

Some times they stick in the head and when you take it to the machine shop they will get pulled out for surfacing, and then forgotten to be given back to you.

I have a pile of them from that.......

I stole your pics and marked them where they go...
absRTP' B6T built-6bt1a.jpg
absRTP' B6T built-6bt2b.jpg

If you notice these head bolt hole are a tad larger, it will be the same for the corasponding holes in the block. The style you have will be a "sleeve" style, it allows the head bolt/stud to pass thu it.

Hit up the dealer or Junk yard or look on line and find a pair.
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:59 PM   #17
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Oh, I was thinking about different type of dowels, now that you had mentionned, I remembered having them on the head I think... Before I first send it to the machine shop, which definitaly forgot to gave them back to me..... It was a pita to put the head back on...

Do you know how much are they at the dealership?


Btw, thanks alot for pointing this out!
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:02 PM   #18
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I have no clue what they cost....

I buy for 5.0 ones for like .75 each

So on the high side from the dealership...$10 max?? as a guess
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:08 PM   #19
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yeah, $10 seems to be something the stealership would be able to do....

thanks again!
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