Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
#6485
The idiot who harvested the parts off my donor car (that would be me) cut the wire to the sensors inside the wheel well, so I didn't have those grommets any more. Routing the wire through the firewall, interior, up under the rear deck, and through the tunnels to the rear of the car sounded like a PITA, whereas zip-tying it to the PPF was easy. There didn't really seem to be any downside.
--Ian
--Ian
#6492
Cpt. Slow
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You can get a much easier cutting tool at home depot for less than $20 iirc. I use it to cut fairly precise spacers from 1/2" tube stock and brake line when I did my prop valve. Very handy.
#6497
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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Also need to get an alignment. So what do you guys think about these specs. Car is still a commuter, and gets driven to thunderhill at least every year. So I want decent front tire wear.
Ride height: 4.25F/4.5R
Front:
Camber: 3.3
Toe 0
Rear:
Camber: 2.9
Toe: +1/16~1/8
Ride height: 4.25F/4.5R
Front:
Camber: 3.3
Toe 0
Rear:
Camber: 2.9
Toe: +1/16~1/8
#6498
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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The kit that i borrow from yank has all the cutting, deburring, flaring, etc. I just grabbed this cutter so I could cut and route brake lines ahead of time, and then borrow his flaring kit to do the actual flaring. Its the only kit they have at his shop so I can't borrow it full time.
#6500
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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I'm ok with it being squirmy. My commute is 5 miles, and having less toe should help have less inner wear right?
Also, if I want to increase front camber, is there a "ratio" to increase the rear camber by?
Also, if I want to increase front camber, is there a "ratio" to increase the rear camber by?