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Old 03-02-2016, 09:27 PM   #6481
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Why didnt you wire it like stock? For the rear and front there are grommets built into the sensor leads and spot on the chassis where the grommets pop out so you can wire the whole thing inside the car.
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Old 03-02-2016, 09:31 PM   #6482
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Iirc it was because they are a pain to get to by the gas tank and stuff.
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Old 03-02-2016, 09:32 PM   #6483
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I thought it was pretty easy, you just take that big tin cover off. And you get to find the sockets and **** that found their way back there and you never knew you lost.
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Old 03-02-2016, 09:33 PM   #6484
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I'll try it.
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:01 AM   #6485
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The idiot who harvested the parts off my donor car (that would be me) cut the wire to the sensors inside the wheel well, so I didn't have those grommets any more. Routing the wire through the firewall, interior, up under the rear deck, and through the tunnels to the rear of the car sounded like a PITA, whereas zip-tying it to the PPF was easy. There didn't really seem to be any downside.

--Ian
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:10 AM   #6486
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Front suspension is buttoned up. Just waiting on the f-body studs before hubs and wheels can go on.
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Old 03-04-2016, 11:21 AM   #6487
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Brake line stuff showed up last night

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Aidan's loose oily bunghole-nwbctim.jpg  
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Old 03-04-2016, 12:28 PM   #6488
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Those little teeny tubing cutters work, but will rip up your thumbs. I recommend gloves when using it.

--Ian
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Old 03-04-2016, 12:29 PM   #6489
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My hand have gloves of calluses built into them.
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Old 03-04-2016, 12:33 PM   #6490
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No deburring tool?
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Old 03-04-2016, 01:04 PM   #6491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rleete View Post
No deburring tool?
Part of the flaring kit I borrow from yank.
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Old 03-04-2016, 01:29 PM   #6492
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You can get a much easier cutting tool at home depot for less than $20 iirc. I use it to cut fairly precise spacers from 1/2" tube stock and brake line when I did my prop valve. Very handy.
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Old 03-04-2016, 01:33 PM   #6493
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Link? I really like these kind of tubing cutters. Just spin it around a few times while tightening down the ****.
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Old 03-04-2016, 03:35 PM   #6494
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Ridgid 31622 1/8-Inch to 1-1/8-Inch X-Cel Constant Swing Feed Cutter - Pipe Cutters - Amazon.com Ridgid 31622 1/8-Inch to 1-1/8-Inch X-Cel Constant Swing Feed Cutter - Pipe Cutters - Amazon.com

I think this is the one I have, little more expensive than I thought. But the trick is to search for pipe cutter, not tube cutter.
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Old 03-04-2016, 04:18 PM   #6495
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Old 03-04-2016, 04:49 PM   #6496
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I have exactly that cutter (the small one Aidan linked) -- I clicked on the link and Amazon said "You purchased this item on August 17, 2013"). It works fine for brake tubing, except for the aforementioned tearing up of my thumb tightening the wheel.

--Ian
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Old 03-04-2016, 04:49 PM   #6497
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Also need to get an alignment. So what do you guys think about these specs. Car is still a commuter, and gets driven to thunderhill at least every year. So I want decent front tire wear.

Ride height: 4.25F/4.5R

Front:
Camber: 3.3
Toe 0

Rear:
Camber: 2.9
Toe: +1/16~1/8
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Old 03-04-2016, 04:51 PM   #6498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codrus View Post
I have exactly that cutter (the small one Aidan linked) -- I clicked on the link and Amazon said "You purchased this item on August 17, 2013"). It works fine for brake tubing, except for the aforementioned tearing up of my thumb tightening the wheel.

--Ian
Ahh, ok. So it needs a "not for sissy miata drivers" warning

The kit that i borrow from yank has all the cutting, deburring, flaring, etc. I just grabbed this cutter so I could cut and route brake lines ahead of time, and then borrow his flaring kit to do the actual flaring. Its the only kit they have at his shop so I can't borrow it full time.
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Old 03-04-2016, 04:59 PM   #6499
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You'll probably want a smidgon of toe in front for a commuter. Otherwise it feels a little squirrelly when you hit small bumps, like on a highway.
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Old 03-04-2016, 05:02 PM   #6500
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I'm ok with it being squirmy. My commute is 5 miles, and having less toe should help have less inner wear right?

Also, if I want to increase front camber, is there a "ratio" to increase the rear camber by?
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