Ok so putting this out for criticism. And to get some input. These are the requirements I am trying to meet.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bebe8e4efd.png

Current oil drain is a 10AN welded fitting to the oil pan, and a 10AN flange fitting on the turbo.
45* AN fitting on the oil pan, straight fitting on the turbo.

The 45* AN fitting has an ID of .45", so tossing that out immediately. I haven't measured the straight fitting on the turbo, but I assume its the same.

I also need to measure the ID of both the turbo drain fitting, and the oil pan fitting. And possibly enlarge both of those with some sort of reamer. You can see in this picture that you can take out a good amount of ID and still get a surface to seal.

Attachment 235630

Here is my current oil drain.

Attachment 235631

So I don't trust my measurements in the car to make a full hardline tube, so instead I am going to have 2 10AN stubs of thin wall tubing flared for 10AN. One of them will be bent towards the turbo, and the other will be a short piece that will come off the turbo. I will then connect the 2 pieces with a piece of oil cooler hose and some clamps. This should give me a direct flow, with minimal restrictions.

New drain line will be:

10AN in the oil pan
10AN tube flared, with a sleeve and tube nut. This piece will have a radius bend to point towards the turbo.
Piece of high temp oil hose, clamped to the tube
10AN tube flared with a sleeve and tube nut, this piece will point straight down from the turbo, or possibly point towards the drain.

Both 10AN fittings will be drilled out to maximum size.

Fingers crossed that this stops the smoking.

Now all you need are inconel exhaust valves so you can run man boost on track! :)

I feel the need to pull my motor to fix my drain now too....


efff

fixed

You buying? :D

If it ain't broke don't fix it. Mine is broke.

And in reality this may not be my issue, but its a first step.

Not available around here. Bring me a barrel to MRLS.

Better yet: stop by sacramento on your way to MRLS and gimme a ride :D
or
I might make it out to MRLS if I need to tune a car up there or something. hint hint, G ;)

Lol. I'll see what i can do.

My current setup is 3/4" NPT tapped the pan, put a fitting in it with a 3/4" hose barb, and put a 3/4" hose on it and ran that to the turbo. No leaks, no smoke, and it's not expensive or complicated to do. If the turbo is so sensitive to having a good drain, I'd go 12AN or 3/4" hose. The 3/4" hose approach keeps the ID large everywhere. As you know AN fittings can get smaller in bends, etc vs bending a large hose with a smooth radius doesn't kink like the fittings often do.

https://www.flyinmiata.com/inconel-1...ust-valve.html

I'll buy you one, not joking. Get a group funding thread going, I'm sure you could get the other 7

Its good for the community, and it allows people to live vicariously through your boost.

Also, I'm tired of your excuses... ah its too hot for this, too much of that, blah blah blah :P

Currently you are running a Journal bearing turbo too right? This mostly applies to ball bearing turbos.

It also appears to mostly apply to EFR turbos? Never had any problems with a -10AN drain on my Garretts. I use a 45-degree NPT-to-AN fitting though, rather than a 45 degree hose end.

http://www.codrus.com/miata/fm2r/dra...-installed.jpg

--ian

Yeah. And other people have run EFR's without issues. You have a much longer drain line. Which allows the oil to return to liquid form, which can help keep it from backing up.

The general principle is simple.

I don't know what you are reffering to by "this". Anyways you said you thought your oil drain isn't working well enough for your turbo, so I posted what I think would work better, and that's as far as my post was intended to go. I don't know what drain ever turbo needs, but I do think my turbo drain would flow better than what you have now.

^
​​​​​​This.

Your drain is awfully short, so do what Pat said and move on.

It must be luck of the draw on the EFRs all the MZR turbo kits, including the EFR ones have the turbo oil drain below the oil level in the pan. Which I do find annoying, but there's really no other way to do it, the resting oil level is above the oil pan gasket (mine dribbles where I forgot to torque one of the bolts when the rtv was wet). But on the other hand that motor also pulls a ton of oil out of the crankcase while its running.

Ryan_G had EFR drainage issues, check his build thread. Not sure why they are more sensitive but all manufacturers are different. Bigger than the listed minimums wouldn't hurt.

ftfy:D

No problem:)
Gotta find some straight and uncrowded roads near there tho. It was a serious struggle with Geoffs car to do a proper pull/log last time

No miataing this weekend. Instead we were gamblin.


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