So if it is a hg then I obviously need a new gasket. What about fasteners and other seals?

If it is a hg (check valve cover gasket first) I recommended an oem hg and arp studs. Also use head gasket copper paint. I did that on mine and it has been gold I mean copper.

I don't think you'd use copper stuff on 1.6 composite head gaskets.

You'll want new OEM IM and thermostat gaskets. Might need a new EM gasket if yours is cruddy. Are you due for a timing belt/water pump? Good time to do it. Good time to do a reroute/add an oil cooler/clean and match the fuel injectors too. List can go on and on. I'm terrible about that.

Cleanliness and flatness are the keys to HG success!! And, yeah, don't use any type of RTV/sealant on a composite HG.

I did it on my 1.8. Been working great. What's the reason not to do it. I figured it would help fill in any of the imperfections in the cylinder head or block.

Shit never mind realized I used an mls

Are arp studs really required? This isn't a built motor.

If you go back a few pages I already have a rerout and cleaned injectors. This motor was out of the car 2 months ago.

Should I take the head to get checked for flatness?

Thanks josh.

If the head comes off, it definitely needs to be milled. My head guy cleans it, surfaces it, replaces valve seals, grinds valve guides, paints it with aluminum paint, and pressures tests. All for $225.

That's more than I want to spend on a 1.6 head. Any idea what just a surface costs. (Clackamas auto store right?)

For track duty, ARPs and MLS (which requires surface prep to both block and head). For street duty, OEM bolts and composite have given reliable service up to 12psi. That's a sample size of 1. LOL.

The fact that you have a leak tells me you should get the head milled like Josh suggested. That $225 he quoted sounds like a bargain to me. Clean/inspect the block carefully too, although they are cast iron and usually fine.

I don't think this 1.6 is going to stay long so this is going to be done on the cheap. I'm thinking OEM studs, gasket. Surface the head.

Local engine shop said 70 to clean and surface, 115 if I don't pull the cam myself. Are new cam seals required? If I determine its a head gasket looks like I'm at 100 minimum. Add in valve stem seals and it goes up.

Looks like I might be learning how to remove camshafts too yay!

Hydraulic cams. They just bolt in. Respect the tightening sequence. Really easy.

Once the front caps are off, the seals fall out. If they're still pliable and don't look like they've been leaking, they're probably still good.

Thanks guys.

Little side project. 25$ GPS chip + 7$ Bluetooth chip = cheap external Bluetooth receiver. I'm probably going to 3d print a case and sell a couple in the near future.

Attachment 238344

GPS is working:

http://i62.tinypic.com/2yv9mon.jpg

i want a case

For sure. Want me to put a whole module together for you and we can finish out our trade?

works for me

Sounds good :) Should be a week or so. Need to figure out the best way to power it. Mini-usb would be perfect but adds space, I might just leave 2 wires hanging out and leave it up to you to find power.

like i said no hurry. mini usb would be much preferred, please no micro though.

have you tested to see if it will talk to trackamster "BT GPS service"?

Trackmaster - Welcome

https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ooth.GPS&hl=en

I use google rewards and have like $3.78 of credit. So I'm waiting for one more survey so I can buy that. But it should work with any of them.

i dont see why it wouldnt, NMEA protocal, was just curious. if you dont make $0.21 in the next couple of weeks, i shall be the guinea pig lol

I will probably break down and buy it. I also need to test it driving before I determine if its going to work.

trust me, that app is soooo worth $4. its not super accurate, even with a 10hz, but its consistent, so you can compare it to past runs. i find its about 0.2 seconds off on a 1:15 lap. the fun part is video with gforce, speed, lap time, etc data. and it has a virtual dyno which ive never really screwed with.

Does it take video too? I use my gopro for video and put my phone in the center console. Then use something like race render after to combine them.

Found a bunch of these in a storage closet at work.

yes, it data logs while taking video, i use my "gopro equivalent" to take rear footage for my videos. just got another cam so i was thinking of doing a door mount.

it will also call out split times while your driving so you can improve while on course instead of waiting to review the video.

well that just makes it too easy. now you have no excuse.

I have a bottle of resbond if you want a few drips. Swing by PRE if you're in the area. Or PM me your number and i may be able to swing by one night when you're working on the car. I live up in NE Portland so you're not too far away.

Alright I might do that. Mobius has some too apparently. Do you have enough to give me a small bottle? I need to pull the head one of these weekends but between midterms and selling my extra smurf I'm running out of town. PM me.

Picked up a sweet cooling panel

http://i57.tinypic.com/ou9ue8.jpg

Also did more searching and the oil leak is definitely coming from between the head and block. Ed grabbed the gaskets I need from Mazda, and the machine shop can get my head done in a day on friday. So head will be pulled thursday night, cleaned/surfaced on friday and back on for saturday.

Hopefully will be going to the PRE dyno day next weekend and will get some numbers finally.

Just got final pictures of my new tach, its freaking awesome:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423778418

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423778418

:D :party:

that looks simply fukin fabulous. adam, whos car is that?

edit: just realized its probably a test/free standing cluster...

I'm going to end up ordering a second one of these, lol... After seeing the pics of the actual gauge I need a full party one :party:

The lighting is what blew me away. I just told adam pink redline and blue name. The rest is just epic.

i agree, the way the lighting has a gradient thing going on looks really cool

+1 for fab greatness. Love the gauges!

Greatest f%#%ing gauges ever! Super jelly right now!

Picture dump from pulling the head:

Cylinder 1:

http://i60.tinypic.com/4t21c6.jpg

2 and 3:

http://i60.tinypic.com/2s7gnih.jpg

4:

http://i57.tinypic.com/qoxabs.jpg

Bolts:

http://i62.tinypic.com/24ql4x1.jpg

I found it interesting that some bolts were covered in oil and others weren't.

Grime on one of the bolts:

http://i60.tinypic.com/123vzhg.jpg

Ok so the head is at the machine shop. What do I do to the cylinders and block surface while I have it off. What is the best way to clean them.

Anything I need to be careful of when re-assembling?

Also I could tell that my CAS o-ring was about to start leaking out the back, can I get a thicker one or something? I might see if Ed can get me an OEM one.

Shoot me the part number.

There is, however, going to be a point where they start asking how many Miatas I own since I've been using my employee pricing on everything :laugh:

And cylinder pictures:


http://i60.tinypic.com/17btyo.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/2h5latg.jpg

http://i59.tinypic.com/2chs7td.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/55jedz.jpg

To be fair you owned 2 until about a week ago.

And nvm, OEM doesn't seem any better, I might just try a thicker one.

sticking with composite right?

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...stalled-65074/

Going with whatever the dealer sells. Which I don't actually have yet. Getting it from Ed tonight.

figure out what that is first. the prep for the head will be differnt for each type, and i assume the block would be too. and reagrding the head, you need to make sure your mahinist knows which type he is prepping for.

Getting this one: GASKET,CYL. HEAD (B6F4-10-271B) - $43.14 - B6F410271B

someone correct me if im wrong, but im 99% sure thats a composite

There is some back and forth in that thread, some people say just a razor blade, others say sand paper.

to be honest, ive never used that method. i have done more headgaskets than i can remember and have always used a razor blade to get to clean metal, then "sterilize" the surface with brake clean, leave absolutely no oil/grease/build up or old gasket behind. ive had not one HG fail on me, but they were all composite on (with the exception of a supercharged 3.8 that i can recall)N/A vehicles.

i like the sandpaper method as it cleans and "resurfaces" the block, but i dont see why either method wouldnt work well.

I'll just sit there with some razor blades and get it all clean, need to go pick up some brake clean and seafoam to clean the pistons.

do pack the rings with grease, or something equivalent to keep crap from getting in the rings/ring lands. i always used a grease or oil soaked rag. and please note my obligatory ninja edit.

When I pulled the head I had some carbon and coolant drop into the cylinders, will this be an issue?

Also should I do anything with the HLA's? Soak in cleaner, re-oil, etc?

get out what you can, wet/dry vac first, followed by compressed air. do an oil change when your done.

weve had customers whos engines ingested sooo much shit it was ludacris, or let coolant sit in the holes for months, so the bores were super rusty. some didnt want to pay for us to pull the bottom end apart to clean everything out and just had us do the headgasket, and not one of those engines had an issue that im aware of. im amazed at what some engines can take. obviuosly this is no excuse to not do it right, but jut some anecdote for ya.

That's what I was hoping to hear. No excuse to not clean it well but something to make it less stressful. First time this far in an engine.

unfortunately, i have no hard science for that and usually didnt touch HLAs on customers cars, just replaced them if they had issues. i have no miata specific experience with HLAs, although i helped one of the shop helpers with his 323 from the early 90, i cant remember if it was a b6 or what though. on one of my nissan KA24s, i painstakingly pulled everyone of those apart and cleaned and reoiled them. it was a fuking bitch, but they were $30 a piece from beckarnly, and more than double that from nissan, and a few were collapsed from 175k of "wife oil change intervals".

You could give this a read through if you want.
http://www.miata.net/garage/hla/cleaning.html