Annnnnd that's backwards.

At least from how I've mounted it, tap flips back for me, not forward.

Although the way you've mounted it is kinda useful, you can paint/sticker/nail polish the tap a bright color so see it before you drive off with the hood open.

Instructions say try and put the smaller part forward, but I don't think it actually mattered. I looked at yours and a bunch of others and decided to go this way. It was definitely harder to cut out the underside but oh well.

Also holy shit aluminum dust goes everywhere. I'm going to be cleaning this stuff for a while.

Update to the list:

To-Do:

1. Inconel studs (most likely 10mm OEM, not sure if thats rx-7 or something nissan)
2. Exhaust bracing. (Ordered a 3 inch exhaust clamp)
3. Locking downpipe bolts (ordered but amazon still hasn't sent them, cancelled and switched to summit)
4. Seats + Harness + back braces (Drivers side harness + seat installed minus back brace)
5. Install new springs (550 Front, 350 rear)
6. Oil+water temp guages. (Going with a VEI systems gauge)
9. Put beads on intercooler pipes (Probably DIY: DIY $5 charge pipe bead roller - D-series.org, unless someone local knows somewhere to get it done cheap)
11. Find diff leak.
12. Heat Shielding. (master cylinder, brake lines)
13. Tune.
14. Break stuff.
15. Manifold relief cuts

Done:

8. Hardtop (Got one)
7. Helmet (Going to continue to run my open face helmet and wait for sa-2015)
10. Find coolant leak. (risky to put this here but so far I haven't lost any coolant)

Also thinking about getting some of these:

Toggle Latch Lock Medium Size Adjustable Type | eBay

And DIYing some side latches for my hardtop.

What aluminum seat was that? I missed where you said what company makes it. I really like it.

It's an ultra shield. I drove to Seattle and back this weekend (3 hours each way) and all I needed was a bit of extra foam right under my ass bone. Otherwise super comfortable.

New item on the list: Brake ducts, DIY or purchased, time will decide that.

Update to the list:

To-Do:

1. Inconel studs (most likely 10mm OEM, not sure if thats rx-7 or something nissan)
2. Exhaust bracing. (Ordered a 3 inch exhaust clamp)
3. Locking downpipe bolts (ordered but amazon still hasn't sent them, cancelled and switched to summit)
4. Seats + Harness + back braces (Drivers side harness + seat installed minus back brace, also fender washers to prevent tearout.)
5. Install new springs (550 Front, 350 rear)
6. Oil+water temp guages. (Going with a VEI systems gauge)
9. Put beads on intercooler pipes (Probably DIY: DIY $5 charge pipe bead roller - D-series.org, unless someone local knows somewhere to get it done cheap)
11. Find diff leak.
12. Heat Shielding. (master cylinder, brake lines)
13. Tune.
14. Break stuff.
15. Manifold relief cuts


Done:

8. Hardtop (Got one)
7. Helmet (Going to continue to run my open face helmet and wait for sa-2015)
10. Find coolant leak. (risky to put this here but so far I haven't lost any coolant)

How normal is the smell of burning oil after a boost pull? I used to think it was because of my dipstick but I have a check valve in the pcv line and it doesn't pop anymore. I'm also very slowly losing oil. Compression check?

If you ruined Laz's old motor already I'll be really disappointed... I ran the piss out of that thing with no issues, please tell me how you managed to ruin it already... for shame sir, for shame.

It's called boost. Plus, if you beat on it a ton then even more reason it'd be toast.

Compression test.

No oil smoke at all though which makes me think its a leak. I've done the engine brake then accelerate test and get no smoke so I don't think its the rings.

Also its not something new, I've had it since I first put the turbo in, maybe even before.

And were talking almost no oil lost. The oil stayed gold looking until at least 1000 miles since the swap, and its barely brown now. I have no reason to think its the motor, I'm guessing pressurized crank case or need an oil restrictor.

I'm going to first try routing the exhaust breather hole to a catch can, then get a gtx pcv valve.

Maybe Ed will let me borrow his compression tester this weekend.

Compression test last night. Pretty sure I did it right lol. The Autozone gauge was pretty hard to read but everything was within 10psi of the other. With these numbers the oil smell must be coming from somewhere else right?

170
180
180
175

Yeah those are great numbers. This was no plugs, WOT, and 5 compression pumps?

Damn, I didn't count the pumps. But yes no plugs wot. This was until it stopped jumping like 5psi per pump. Somewhere between 5 and 8 though. If I have time I'll do it again tonight. But they all climbed the same so I think my oil smell is something else. Right now I'm thinking valve cover or turbo related. Might try a catch can off the exhaust breather first though.

Also how the hell do you tighten the compression tester all the way into the cylinder, just twist the hose really tight?

Yeah, just twist it. Most have an o-ring. Doesn't have to be super tight, just right enough to seal. You're not really looking at the numbers unless it's a super expensive gauge, just comparing the numbers.

There's a finite amount of places where you can leak. I'd look extremely close at oil feed and oil drain, since that's close to the exhaust. If not there, then route the PVC lines to the intake side, let them dump on the ground, or into an incredibly well vented bottle, to catch and measure any output. Then work on a catch can solution if the smell goes away. But with a properly operation pcv valve, you should be able to leave the intake side stock, and the exhaust side VTA, until you start racing, usually with higher hp.

Compression test:

Read, diagnosis.

http://www.linnbenton.edu/auto/perform/compress.html

My compression tests. I'm confused. I guess my compression is super low. I did a wet test and it didn't change much.

Compression test:
Compression test cylinder 2:
Compression test cylinder 3:
Compression test cylinder 4:
Wet compression test cylinder 1:
No smoke out of the exhaust while driving. Had a friend hang his head out the window for a solid 5 minutes. Did boost and vacuum pulls.

According to your gauge you're in the green...what's the problem?


I've always used compression tests as a relative number, not an absolute. 140psi vs. 180psi vs. 210psi doesn't really matter to me...all that matters is that each individual cylinder is within 10-15%.

If you really want to know if you have a compression issue, do a leak down test...it's the only way to know for sure.

I'm worried that after 5 pumps its only at 60.

Than do a leakdown test.

I've watched your videos like 3 times...it seems all fine and dandy to me. But seriously, if you can't sleep tonight because of it then do a leakdown test. It will give you 489% more info than a compression test.

First time ever doing a compression. Test so I'm really just shooting in the dark here. I think I'm just worrying about nothing.

^ probably. Hopefully.

Just bought these because my other fog lamp broke (cheap ebay shit without a replaceable bulb)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1422395849

I use them mostly as driving lights so other people can see me, but with all the fog we have had lately they will help.

Also got these in the mail:

http://i58.tinypic.com/j997d4.jpg

Locking downpipe fasteners.

Grabbed some RX-7 studs and just need to get some resbond and that will be my fastener plan.

Haven't worked on mine much because this thing has been taking all my time:

http://i60.tinypic.com/xwo7q.jpg

What're you doing there?

Pulled the turbo to clean and diagnose. Got a pressure washer and some soap lol.

Ah. Thought maybe you were going to build another manifold :laugh:

:hahano:

Things seem in good condition. I just know I'll get a bit more money if it is buttoned up nice and looks good.

You got that right. Craigslist would call that a fully refurbished turbo kit.

Wait. No it wouldn't. Nobody on Craigslist knows what that word means.

Oooh I like that, fancy sounding words will definitely up the price.

$25 each yo. You go to college.

Psh, I'm an engineer, I don't speak gud and them fancy words don't help me with math any.

I have actually managed to go the past 3 years without writing a single paper over 2 pages. Fancy words are not my forte. :)

I'd take a 3-page paper over a few math problems any day. Linguistics major FTW. Actually no -- FTL. I'm a car salesman with a college degree :cry:

Put some time in this morning mounting my passenger seat. I now have matching fixed back seats and 6 point harnesses. The passenger seat is mounted to the stock sliders.

Harness:

http://i57.tinypic.com/33p7b48.jpg

Mock up:

http://i60.tinypic.com/2h2o7b6.jpg


2 metal straps to connect to the seat:

http://i62.tinypic.com/3582ydt.jpg

Which are bolted to the stock rails.

http://i59.tinypic.com/2l8hlkj.jpg

Big washers to prevent pull through:

http://i62.tinypic.com/1zpmq6p.jpg

Boom:

http://i59.tinypic.com/25itx.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/33uczdh.jpg

http://i57.tinypic.com/2myql1l.jpg

http://i59.tinypic.com/awalup.jpg

Also, found this above my oil feed line. Could it be coming from under the head?

http://i58.tinypic.com/2efqrf8.jpg

Bought this to try and track it down:

http://i62.tinypic.com/i3gr39.jpg

How did your driver seat feel on your drive to/from seattle?

Really great on my back, but my ass bone needed a pillow. The way I had my right leg up meant that the bone was right on the seat. But otherwise it did fine. We will see what my gf has to say after this weekend's drive to seattle.

Update to the list:

To-Do:

0. FIND OIL LEAK/BURN
1. Inconel studs (RX-7 ordered, still need resbond but I think I am going to run without resbond for now because its a biatch to find)
2. Exhaust bracing. (Ordered a 3 inch exhaust clamp)
3. Locking downpipe bolts (Arrived)
4. Back braces (DIY)
5. Install new springs (550 Front, 350 rear)
6. Oil+water temp guages. (Going with a VEI systems gauge)
9. Put beads on intercooler pipes (Probably DIY: DIY $5 charge pipe bead roller - D-series.org, unless someone local knows somewhere to get it done cheap)
11. Find diff leak.
12. Heat Shielding. (master cylinder, brake lines)
13. Tune.
14. Break stuff.
15. Manifold relief cuts


Done:

4. Seats + Harness
8. Hardtop (Got one)
7. Helmet (Going to continue to run my open face helmet and wait for sa-2015)
10. Find coolant leak. (risky to put this here but so far I haven't lost any coolant)

Just read through the build, Subb'd! +1 :) :jerkit:

At this rate I feel like you're spending more time re-organizing your to-do list than actually completing items.

Lol. I can organize my list in class though. Can't work on my car in class. My oil feed was kinda loose so maybe that fixed it? I hate oil leaks. I don't think it is burning oil because I've never seen smoke.

Also lists make me feel organized (even though I'm not lol) and keep me from dicking around doing other stuff.

OEM axle seals or NAPA? I hate Rosenthal shipping charges.

Napa/az/orileys are all fine. They're either Timkin or felpro, both amazing brands.

Thanks

Found the oil leak, no idea where its coming from:

http://i59.tinypic.com/160u14.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/2h825op.jpg

that would be the head gasket, no?

I'm kind of in denial....hoping someone will come along and say oh no thats a really easy small seal that costs 50 cents.

I'm going to try and pull the valve cover gasket and try see if there is a nick somewhere.

wellll.....





its actually a really small crush washer that cost $0.49.





how was that?

Awesome! All worries gone! Actually this makes me a little happier because it means I'm probably not burning oil.

not wanting to search right now, didnt you have the head off when you painted the block? or am i remembering wrong?

trying to determine if just old HG that didnt like boost, or if maybe something isnt smooth enough on the block or head surface (assuming MLS of course)

Nope, this motor came straight out of greddygalant's garage into my car. Anything that happened before that curly or greddygalant would know. I just tapped up the head when I painted.

Maybe adding the oil feed moved more oil in that galley or something? I think its external only though.

in either case the issue remains the same. i think you know what you have to do. head gaskets really arnt that hard to do, but i would want to know the failure mechanism.

Would be my first hg job. Once all my fasteners get here and I make a downpipe brace I will probably pull everything.

I should be good to drive it as long as the oil is kept topped off?

I should put in my oil to fix it right?






...kidding :)

ive seen people drive on head gaskets puking much worse for thousands of mile because stupid, with surprisingly little/no ill affects.

ive probably done 100+ HGs, i think they are a piece of cake, especially on a 4 cylinder. the miata is good to learn on because non-interference motor.

that stuff makes me want to strangle people.

https://www.miataturbo.net/insert-bs...st-read-21521/

relevant.

:rofl::rofl::rofl: