I'm same place. 420cc not enough to support the 13t, just put in FF. The TD04L-13t is still all I want, however. I just want to maximize it. From many builds, that seems to be about 235WHP.

See other threads about the futility of 19T wheel. Vlad says swap in a VF Something-Something to accomplish what you want.

Put your location in your profile, so it shows under your name in the posts.

Yes I’m considering a IHI vf something as well. I’m following your thread, nice work. How much boost are you running are are you with stock internals?

I have had excursions to 210 kPa with no known ill effects.

To be clear, I am staying with the TD04. I was only suggesting you go to the VF. I should be good with the 235 or so WHP, which should remain safe.

Question will be how much boost, and therefore torque, I apply at 4500-5000 RPM. In other words, the compressor map on the 13T should deliver the same HP at the lower RPM. That's my thought.

Wow, you may be the first Bulgarian. Welcome.

Thanks

Ordered the 19t billet wheel. I'm curious what its gonna be like. I may up the boost a little bit to 170-180kpa but wont go too crazy until I change the rods. Lets see what the bigger wheel can do :bigtu:

dyno or butt dyno? carpassion channel has a video on shinny billet wheels and their affects on butt dynos.

He did show an improvement on the dyno though, just not a huge difference. He figured its a 7% decrease in the amount of time to build psi at certain rpm ranges... or something like that :D

here's the vid if you're interested:

Right I played with open loop ebc today and added 3 psi which is what i wanted but a problem occurred. The AFRs started fluctuating like crazy. I used tune analyze live during the run but it doesn't seem to get any better. Do you guys think that the wideband needs calibrating or i just need a tuneup? Or could it be the stock 18 year old fuel pump with not enough flow?

If the issue started up top when you turned up the boost, then Id guess fuel pump as well. I also wouldnt try to autotune in boost like you seem to be doing just now!

Right. So I got a few bits ordered. AEM fuel pump and ev14 mustang injectors are on their way and made a hardwire harness for the pump while I'm waiting. Also I purchased a set of Manley rods from a mt member. I haven't opened up an engine before so I was wondering if someone could share some wisdom. Can I just install the rods with standard size acl rod and main bearings if the crank has no scoring? Do I have to change the counterweights on the crank for the Manley rods? Cheers

What about the piston rings? You're going to re-ring right?

so you're just going to do the rods now right? You have to pull the Pistons out for it. Will you just be dropping them back in or will you re ring them?

Check your injector duty cycle in those logs. The stock injectors get stuck open up fully at ~80% iirc , which can cause you to go full rich.

Wouldn't you need a different manifold for that?

Yes and internals too. I could still keep my manifold if i use a IHI VF.

тъкмо се чудех какви са тези чуждоземни болтове :)

Homemade tophats :bigtu:

A little update. Got hold of a good used gt2871r . Going forged with 84mm wisecos and manley rods purchased from MT members. Come see your old parts put to use, :D

I See my pistons!!!!! AHHHHHHH haha

A little update and a possible problem. Installed the crank and can't do anything else for now as waiting for piston rings. I've done some reading online and found this: Wiseco Turbo 9:1 Pistons from Flyin'Miata for BP . It seems that i have the same and they don't work with a 99 head. Has anyone tried these pistons with a 99 head?

Some progress. Almost ready to start. Turns out these pistons touch the valves at top dead center and the valves fully open. No contact with the cambelt installed.Not a non-interference engine any more but meh, hope it works. :D







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Car is going strong 500 miles so far. Gonna switch to synthetic oil and install vag cops this week.

Im glad the pistons are working for you. Are the FM Wisecos somehow shallower on the valve relief cuts than the off the shelf Wisecos?

More like the the diameter of the reliefs not big enough. Maybe doesn't have this problem with the bp05 head but as far as i know the valves are the same size so might still be the same.

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Some audi coils.

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Made some numbers. Running 20psi. Experiencing major heat soak issues. The red line was with the hood closed. So next up air box and ducting.

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Next up: diy 4 pots.

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A little update. Got the 4 piston calipers fitted with a set of 300mm discs. Also fabbed up a set of engine mounts using rubber bushings. Have yet to see what they are like.

Not wasting any time.
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New goodies. Got a viscous damper for some insurance and a 36-2 trigger wheel. The recommended belt from fluidampr turned out too short so I ended up using a longer one (4pk875). Also replacing the vics manifold with a square top. Can't wait to slap it on and see the results.


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4th gear WOT and around 6k it suddenly died.It scared the crap out of me but thankfully turned out that the trigger wheel broke. Fab9 should consider making specific wheels for both ati and the stock 4 bolt pattern to avoid this.
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Could'd help but notice how hot the car got in the summer weather. Wasn't so bad when moving but at a stand still the car could barely stay under 100C. Heres what I came up with. Got inspired by Shifti's rad duct design even though it seemed like a bad idea to block the rad with the IC the car keeps a steady 80C when driving and stays under 90 at a stand still with the fans having to work noticeably less time than before. Last but not least a set of Wilvern motorsport hood vents evacuate the hot air when driving and as a result of all this the car runs 10 degrees C cooler than before https://www.miataturbo.net/images/sm...iggthumpup.gif


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I found the need to bypass some air around the IC, but your's is quite a bit larger than mine. Glad it worked for you.

May I ask for some turbo advice? I am currently running a gt2871r and I'm seeing 300whp peak at 20psi. If I get a gtx2867 gen2 supercore and slap it on my exhaust housing what gain other than a better spool will i see? Could it reach 350 at the wheels? We don't have e85 here so I run 100RON which is like 93 octane I think.

A little update. Purchased a kunugawa gtx wheel for the good ol' gt2871r. It's 58 trim and has extended tips so we'll see a before and after dyno in a month or so.Hopefully this will be helpful for someone looking for a budget turbo upgrade.
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A GTX2867R can easily hit 350whp

Actually this is a gtx2871 wheel. Isn't that a bit optimistic for pump gas? The highest we have here is 100RON which is like 93 octane i think and the most I made on it is 310 on a dynapack.

I was making over 330 wheel horsepower on a first generation GTX2867R at 19psi. Actually, I'm running 21psi now and am limited by things other than the turbo for going up from there. This is on pump 93 octane.

Post your engine details and timing map.

The engine is a bp4w with stock head and cams, forged short block with 9:1 CP gt2871r turbo. It still had the vics manifold at the time of the dyno, kraken top mount manifold, 640cc mustang injectors.
Now I changed to 980cc injectors, volvo valve springs and a kraken low mount and I have yet to fit the gtx wheel and visit the dyno.
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You are running more timing than I am.

I'm on a '95 head and stock intake manifold, 8.6 pistons.

Usually a turbo's rotating mass is rebalanced if the wheel is changed.

Yup. Gonna take it to get balanced after I swap the wheels. I already done this to my old td04(was a bit pointless but it looked nice :D).

What did you do to the TD04? I am eventually planning on making my 13T into a 19T

Go to the beginning of the thread and see. You have to machine the cartridge 1mm though.

Ahha, I see now. 19T as well, but seems you didn't manage to get any more power out of it. I was hoping to eventual get to 270-280 at the wheels, but doesn't look like it will.

I do know what goes into the 19T upgrade, we did it on my friend's TD05H-15G, but that's a totally different turbo.

Just get a bigger turbo.

Gettin' there,
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Dotted lines are before with the original gt2871 comp. wheel and not ported exhaust housing.

Finally have results. I'm quite happy with the gain. Keep in mind that the old run was made in november in colder outside temp. It does reach peak boost 500rpm later but power doesn't fall off as much as before.

impressed :)

Figured i share my trans solution. Getrag 260 from an old bmw, e60 530d pressure plate, Kmiata flywheel and adapter and a locally made driveshaft. Everything else made by me :D
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Happy new year!
This year should be very interesting. Ever since I built the engine 2 years ago I have always regretted that I didn't touch the cylinder head so I bought a used head to have a go at porting.
Looking at photos from supemiata cnc head I have decided to go easy on the intake ports and use only sandpaper rolls from 80 to 400 grit to get them as smooth as possible and to go a bit more aggressive on the exhaust ports by smoothing out the bulges that the valve guides stick out and knife edging the dividers. Hopefully I don't slow the exhaust gasses too much but we will find out . Also purchased a set of std size supertech hi flo intake and exhaust valves if there is something to be gained there as well. It will be interesting to see how these changes will affect power and spool. I plan to swap the heads first to take datalogs and then to change the china cooler with a garrett core and fabricate end tanks and move to a larger turbo. So far I am still porting the head and have yet to take it to a machine shop to do the valves skimming etc. Any advice is very welcomed.
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Intake
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Exhaust

Update time. I've done a few things to the car this year. Added a setrab oil cooler and a garrett intercooler core and made ducting for both of them.
I also had a go at making an intake manifold. It's a dual plenum like the one that HF-mx5t made for his awesome build. He was really helpful along the process. Super cool dude he is.
Slowly paving the way for making some good power.

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Really really cool work!