AutoFreak57's build thread - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Build Threads Building a motor? Post the progress here.

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-29-2010, 11:24 PM   #21
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 232
Total Cats: 0
Default

Ok, it has been a couple days, so I guess I should update this.

Next was the gauge install. The previous owner put in the sony radio and cut the stock radio connector almost all the way off. I decided to reattach it to the harness and get an adapter for the radio. I then wired my gauge lights off of the radio and made a harness the signal wires for the gauges. I used the wiring connectors they sell at radio shack to make the harness. I also got all my gauges working 100% at this point. This was all over Easter weekend.

The miata had some roadster company


Picture of the TDR gauge panel again


Wiring mess after day 1


Hood open to wire up sensors (note: actually had coolant reroute installed at this point, beauty of after the fact builds)


Me staring very intently at something (I think I was messing with wiring connectors)


Here is a side view of the TDR gauge panel. I am not a fan of how thin it is, I was expecting a little more for the price. I still like the gauge panel and it would be my choice if I did it again too. The push button is the calibration for the LC-1. Takes me 5 seconds to pull out the gauge panel to calibrate if I want to.


Best picture I have of it installed (This was actually taken this weekend)


Also removed baby teeth




Next update: A close-up of the completed gauge panel
AutoFreak57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2010, 10:54 PM   #22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 232
Total Cats: 0
Default

Here is a close up of the gauge panel I took the other day




Next: The fun part...
AutoFreak57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2010, 08:04 PM   #23
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 232
Total Cats: 0
Default

So I guess it's turbo install time. I did this over Memorial Day weekend and it was hot as ***** inside the garage.

Thursday:
Friend comes down from Columbus and we take the car and parts over to a co-workers garage. Put car on lift and spread parts out to make sure we have it all. Leave car over night to cool off. Here are pictures of the garage. It is 40'x70' with a lift.

Note: My friend takes shitty pictures so some of these are blurry






Car on the lift


I'm super strong!!



Next update: Day 2 of turbo install
AutoFreak57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2010, 10:51 PM   #24
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lompoc, CA
Posts: 579
Total Cats: 12
Default

Pretty sweet garage... all my work gets done in the driveway :(. And I don't think 'day 1 of turbo install' should count. Seeing as day 1's pictures include the car being in the garage and up on the lift. Now show real build pics, with stuff taken apart, and then a big hunk of metal hanging off the block.
baron340 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2010, 03:29 PM   #25
Junior Member
 
Golferluke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 497
Total Cats: 3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by baron340 View Post
now show real build pics, with stuff taken apart, and then a big hunk of metal hanging off the block.
+1
Golferluke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2010, 08:30 PM   #26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 232
Total Cats: 0
Default

Well you're lucky, because we took all the pictures on day 2 so no boring pictures of taking it apart. The rest of the days will be posted later today, just wanted to post a teaser, see if anyone was paying attention
AutoFreak57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2010, 09:35 PM   #27
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 232
Total Cats: 0
Default

Ok, so here is the actual turbo install. Will post cliffs in a couple minutes if you don't feel like reading all this

Day 2 - Friday
My 2 friends and I get an early start (8AM-ish) and go over to the garage (It was really more like 1 friend cuz the other never really did anything). The goal for day 1 was to get everything uninstalled. Tore apart everything and had no real surprises. Installed the injectors and the 323 pcv valve. Cut the access slot from the flyin' miata directions and went to install the turbo/manifold/elbow. We could not get the assembly on. The little slot was just not enough room for the turbo to fit in. We ended up pounding down the whole section next to the turbo to get it to fit. I think the slot might work if I was running the banjo bolts, but not with my AN fitting. We called it quits about 9:30PM and drank way too much Captain's.

Day 3 - Saturday
We got a late start (10-ish) because we were all hung over. We got everything installed this day and took all the pictures. Here are the things we struggled with. Because this kit has the upgraded intercooler, I had to bend a bunch of AC and PS lines (expected) and bend the horn bracket (unexpected). The intercooler was also a pain to install because we didn't pull the bumper off. The downpipe nuts are very hard to tighten. We ended up with a little exhaust leak and had to retighten a couple. The FM exhaust brace does not work with the roadster sport midpipe. It pushes the exhaust like 1" too far over to meet the downpipe. Anyone want a FM exhaust brace? The FM lower coolant hose is a pain in the ***. It leaked on me before I went turbo until I clamped it really tight on the block. It is very hard to get over the radiator inlet. We tried to press -6 lines onto the coolant outlets on the engine and could not get the bottom one on. We ended up using the stock hose to go up to the top of the PS pump and then a bung to the stainless line. We had the car on 4 wheels and put together by sunset. Hooked up the ECU and calibrated the sensors. Find out the 3-bar map sensor is toast (reading 3 bar all the time). Now I'm really frustrated, but we are done for the night. Drink, play pool, sleep.

Day 4 - Sunday
We search around for a 3-bar map and cannot find one locally. About to leave to get a 2-bar and Travis calls. He ends up bringing a new 3-bar over and gives it to me. Car cranks over and starts, but idles like complete crap. This is also where we find the exhaust leak. Travis spends a couple hours trying to get it to run right, but no go. We did put a suspension on my buddies STi though. So still no car :(

Day 5 - Memorial Day (Monday)
Get there in the morning, kinda depressed. Try to start it again, still idles like crap. I get looking through all the sensor readings in the computer and notice a weird trend in the injector test. 3 of the 4 injector voltage tests are over each other. Cylinder 1 has a flat line. Tear the intake manifold apart and pull the connector off. We managed to bend the electrical tab on the injector when we installed them. Plugged it in right, cranked her over and she runs purrs like a kitten. Button up the car, do a little tuning, and go play putt-putt!

Actually installed the heat shield and underbody during the week after the install.

Pictures (no particular order):

Tapping the pan. It is very tight in there, but not hard to drill at all

This is what she looked like after day 1

You can see the shelf we beat up


Decent shot of oil sump for people who want to see the space we're working in

Large intercooler really fills the mouth

Close-up of oil drain

Coldside pipe

Hotside pipe




Stainless Coolant Lines









AutoFreak57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2010, 09:39 PM   #28
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 232
Total Cats: 0
Default

Cliffs
-Everything installed in 2 days, but would not run right
-Broke 3-bar map sensor by over-tightening
-Travis brought new one over but car would not run right
-Bent connector on injector 1, fixed and she ran
-FM exhaust brace does not fit with roadstersport midpipe, but is for sale
-Drilling and tapping the pan is very easy, despite the tight space
-FM's cut-out slot is too small, solved with BFH


Next update - The next 2500 miles after turbo
AutoFreak57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2010, 01:24 AM   #29
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lompoc, CA
Posts: 579
Total Cats: 12
Default

Not half bad. Just one question... why in the world did you drill and tap the oil pan with it on the car. It isn't that difficult to pull off, especially with your nice lift and would've made the process much easier.
baron340 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2010, 07:26 AM   #30
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Taos, New mexico
Posts: 5,702
Total Cats: 237
Default

Looking nice. In for videos.
Fireindc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2010, 10:35 PM   #31
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 232
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by baron340 View Post
Not half bad. Just one question... why in the world did you drill and tap the oil pan with it on the car. It isn't that difficult to pull off, especially with your nice lift and would've made the process much easier.
It took maybe 15 minutes to drill and tap the pan. That included stepping up the drill size at least once. Looks like you would have to drop the subframe to take out the pan. Even if you don't, I bet it would take me longer to get the pan off and back on. It is not hard at all to drill the pan. You can almost get a straight shot at the pan with the drill.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
Looking nice. In for videos.
Well there's an autox tomorrow so you might get one
AutoFreak57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2010, 07:11 PM   #32
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 232
Total Cats: 0
Default

Car was not running for the first time yesterday. Full update and results soon. Need to upload video first
AutoFreak57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2010, 10:23 PM   #33
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 232
Total Cats: 0
Default

Ok, finally updating this.

Issues since turbo (~3000 miles)

-Random erratic idling. Turned out to be adaptronic adapter board got scratched.
-Overheating on highway
-Broken map sensor


1) Random erratic idling.

It turns out the adapter board was rubbing on the clutch pedal switch for the cruise control. It was jumping the idle control and making it go all the way open. I "fixed" that by covering the back of the board in e-tape. Noticed some bad solder joints too. Now some of the wires are crossing and messing with the idle. This week Travis is bringing a new adapter board to me and we are switching mine out.
Pictures:








2) Overheating

The car was overheating on the highway. It was 104*C-110*C on the highway. I made sure the system was bled and I put the underbody back on. Still ran pretty hot. The solution will be my next update.

3) Broken map sensor

I did my first autox since the turbo install on 7-11. I made it to corner 5 and it broke. I was at about 7000rpm and went hard onto the brakes. What I think happened is the engine torqued over and the map sensor hit the hood. There is a large scratch directly above the map sensor. As I said before, do NOT mount a map sensor to the throttle body like I did. Met the nicest guy with a locost that loaned me his truck to get home. Replaced the map sensor and moved it to the washer bottle and got the car running.

Dave's Locost ('93 miata based)


Tow Rig Home


Original, bad location


Relocated map sensor






Next Update: Radiator install
AutoFreak57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2010, 09:32 PM   #34
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 232
Total Cats: 0
Default

Since the car was overheating, I decided I needed a bigger radiator. I bought the Mishimoto because my friend had good luck with one in his RSX and it was cheaper than the Koyo. I read about the fitment issues and was expecting to fight it putting it in. It actually went in very easily. I think I spent more time taking pictures than actually installing it. I also put a 180* thermostat in.

Modifications I had to make to install it:
-Bent the AC condenser brackets forward maybe 1/4". Not hard to do; just unbolt condenser and shove forward by hand
-Installed radiator without fans attached
-Moved clamps on charge piping around so they would not hit the fans
-Cut the bottom corner of the drivers side fan shroud off because it hit the PS lines

Here is the radiator when I got it





Compared to stock radiator

Stock


Remove driver's side fan so I can get to the lower radiator hose from the top


Here is the back of the AC condenser. Unbolt and bend the top tabs forward

Replace Thermostat


Fans bolted up with 0 modifications

Mishimoto sitting in place

Driver's Side Fan Shroud Modification (I think I made the cut a little bigger than this)

Clearance to charge pipes (clamp rests against fan)

Stock Swaybar clearance

Finished




Now this thread is caught up to current events. Who knows what the next update will be.
AutoFreak57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2010, 10:10 PM   #35
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lompoc, CA
Posts: 579
Total Cats: 12
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoFreak57 View Post
Who knows what the next update will be.
De-rats-nest-ify the wiring and vac hoses. How has that radiator been working out for you? Any over heating issues since?
baron340 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2010, 10:11 PM   #36
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,105
Total Cats: 518
Default

I had leaking issues with their cap, ditch it.
curly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2010, 10:44 PM   #37
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 232
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by baron340 View Post
De-rats-nest-ify the wiring and vac hoses. How has that radiator been working out for you? Any over heating issues since?
Haven't ran the car for a long period with the computer hooked up, but the fans aren't on all the time anymore. So that is a pretty good sign it is not overheating anymore. If you are talking about the gauge wiring rats nest, it is actually better than the last picture. Everything is in a harness and is removable from the car and the panel disconnects from the harness


Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
I had leaking issues with their cap, ditch it.
Yeah, I heard about that and I was planning on picking up a cap from AutoZone or something
AutoFreak57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2010, 09:40 PM   #38
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 232
Total Cats: 0
Default

Well, I did some more modifications. First, I did install the stock radiator cap onto the Mishimoto.

Next, I picked up some winter gear off of Craigslist. 5 - 15" Borbet wheels with winter tires and a hardtop. I might get it painted by winter time, we'll see.




I also decided that my FM turbo muffler was too quiet. After running no muffler for a little bit, I decided on an Enthuza Lightweight Turbo muffler. Arrived about a week later and it took me 15 minutes to install. I love the new sound. It is the perfect volume and not boomy on the highway. The FM muffler is for sale in the classifieds too.
Free beer coozie too!








Next update: maybe a dyno tune....

Last edited by AutoFreak57; 08-18-2010 at 09:57 PM.
AutoFreak57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2010, 11:49 AM   #39
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 232
Total Cats: 0
Default

Well it's official. I'm getting the car tuned on September 18th. Looks like I will be running 10psi which should give in the range of 250whp. I'm looking forward to it because I have been too lazy to put the time into cleaning up the tune after I got VVT working.

Here is a new autox pic too:
AutoFreak57 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2010, 06:43 PM   #40
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 232
Total Cats: 0
Default

Result of dyno is 220whp on a Dyno Dynamics at 10psi



AutoFreak57 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
OTS Bilstein to motorsports ASN conversion stoves Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 5 04-21-2016 04:00 PM
WTB MP62 (Hotside) (NB2) Rick02R WTB 3 01-03-2016 08:18 PM
Going back to stock. Need some 1.6 parts. Trent WTB 2 10-01-2015 01:15 PM
Leaky Wilwoods mx592 Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 1 10-01-2015 01:45 AM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:07 PM.