Can you not just switch seats the night before going to the track?

I can, but if I cut off the humps and mount my track seat to the floor, how do I install the stock seat again?

I was under the impression that you passed the broomstick test with the Sprint seats you already had. At least that is sort of what I gathered from you being allowed out on track already with them.

NASA doesn't technically require you to pass the broomstick test for HPDE. I did a few sessions with my head sticking up too far, figuring I was just trying it out and not really pushing that hard. When I got a bit faster and graduated to group 3, I decided that I shouldn't be driving on the track without figuring out how to do it safely.

TRURBO SELFIE!!!


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446847240

lol @ your sig pic. You can see your helmet sticking up above the winshield frame, even from that low angle.

Have you made a seat decision yet?

Yeah, sucks.

The decision I've come to is that I won't do anything for 6ish months. I want this to be a street car first, and if I can take it to the track that would be awesome. With the Marrad not working for me, I think I'm out of options beyond going with an aluminum seat to the floor. Maybe I'll just have to knock over some cones until I get a second car. Then maybe I'll bit the bullet and make it less commuter friendly and more track friendly.

Drill out rivets in the humps and put bolts in instead.

Then you can unbolt your humps and put an aluminum seat in, then bolt your stock seats back in.

Win win.

I accept donations

Progress was made this day.

I added a boost gauge and some switches (fuel map, data log, launch).

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447035882

Slapped on a MSM spoiler because it adds 10hp.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447035882

Also, I installed a pair of Garage Star delrin door jams. There are some rave reviews out there but I was a non-believer. For $65 though, I just thought WTF, I'll give it a try.

When I first "repaired" my car it was pretty floppy. The roll bar did something, and seam welding made a big difference. These door jams though, no joke, made a bigger difference than seam welding. It's a bit of a pain to close the door, but it feels really solid over the shitty roads in my neighborhood in a way that it really didn't before. I'm so impressed.

I love your gauge cluster, something about it is just so right. Good work :)

So I suggest you sell the deuce and get an M2 or M2 hard core. That bar is simply not high enough to you to get under safely, regardless of seat.

The for and aft measurement difference I don't think will make a difference for you.

For street driving I move the seat up a couple of clicks. This gets my head reasonably away from the bar.

Thanks! I wanted to go super simple with the stereo - just a bluetooth input and the smallest amp I could find, and that would free up the space for gauges, switches, and a phone mount.

So you sit farther forward for street than for the track? I'm the opposite. For street I want a comfortable driving position with my legs stretched out a bit, whereas for the track I want my wrists to touch the top of the steering wheel when stretched out straight. I'll try driving home today with my seat forward a bit, but my knees are already bunched up in a way that isn't super ideal.

I'm with you -- ideally on the street I run a bit further back than I would on the track. Course I'm quite short so neither one is a problem.

Would you share where you got that little amp thing? Link if possible... I be buying one.

Careful, it'll break the bank: http://amzn.to/1RIFZHr

:likecat: thanks!

Understandable, but in the case with the roll bar, he is sliding his seat forward more to get his head away from the roll bar in the event of a rear-end accident. Give some comfort up, to save your noggin.

The idea of replacing seat floor mounts with bolts is a great one, noted.

I literally came up with that idea on the shitter. in like 2 seconds.

No way it hasn't been done.