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Totaled! $4145 repair estimate. Car valued at 3811. Shwoops. $250 deductable and the buy back is $1000 (that surprised me). Got a check for $2561 and change.
Best part is, NJ doesn't do salvage titles on cars older than 8 years old or something like that. So clean title still. Now to try and find a hood and headlight assembly.
The hint I will give, is that it has to do with the way the megasquirt calculates it's fueling needs compared to the stock ECU. Read up on speed density vs. MAF or AFM control.
Let me give it a try:
Stock ECU- Airflow Meter fuel management, the air bypassed into the intake manifold by the ISCV has to be pulled through the AFM to meter correctly and provide the correct amount of fuel; so air has to come post AFM, pre TB. Thus the hose to the SC elbow.
Megasquirt uses Speed Density management, doesn't require Airflow Meter. Therefore, you can just pull atmospheric air into the ISCV.
How did I do? If I win, would you mind posting the part number of that little K&N filter?
Stock ECU- Airflow Meter fuel management, the air bypassed into the intake manifold by the ISCV has to be pulled through the AFM to meter correctly and provide the correct amount of fuel; so air has to come post AFM, pre TB. Thus the hose to the SC elbow.
Megasquirt uses Speed Density management, doesn't require Airflow Meter. Therefore, you can just pull atmospheric air into the ISCV.
How did I do? If I win, would you mind posting the part number of that little K&N filter?
BTW- nice score on the insurance payout!
Exactly correct. Next assignment is why does it not matter with speed density?
Will grab the part number later. Only issue you may run into is that the IACV tends to leak 0.5-1psi if you don't put a check valve on it. The filter was loke 18 and the check valve would be another $20 if I remeber right. My kit came with the check valve, so I just did that.
Yeah, I wish the buy back had been closer to $500, but whatever. I only payed 2600 for the car when I bought it. Also, it looks like it will be about $300-350 in parts to fix this.
Exactly correct. Next assignment is why does it not matter with speed density?
Will grab the part number later. Only issue you may run into is that the IACV tends to leak 0.5-1psi if you don't put a check valve on it. The filter was loke 18 and the check valve would be another $20 if I remeber right. My kit came with the check valve, so I just did that.
Yeah, I wish the buy back had been closer to $500, but whatever. I only payed 2600 for the car when I bought it. Also, it looks like it will be about $300-350 in parts to fix this.
Speed density determines fuel needs from a calculated Volumetric Efficiency (VE) of the engine, based on related sensor inputs, rather than an actual measurement of the air being pulled into the engine.
I already have the check valve, which is currently in the middle of the big ugly hose going to the elbow. Your check valve/air filter dongle is pretty clever, I'm going to steal that.
Looks like you just need a hood, fender and headlight assembly. Maybe a front bumper if you want to make her purty again. Should be easy!
Correct enough. It uses the pressure and temperature of the air in the intake manifold to calculate the fuel based on the (calculated) Volumetric Efficiency of the engine. It doesn't care how the air got there, as long as the intake manifold is the same pressure as the air at the back of the intake valves.
Check valve is good. K&N PN 62-1560. I got mine on amazon.
Yeah, head light assembly, hood, fender. I have the fender in the shed already though, found a pair at a price too good to pass up. Bumper cover seems to have survived, though will need sanding and paint. The metal bracket that holds the top of the bumper to the rad support is bent though. Going to have to either find another one or bang that one back into shape.
So far, I have found a red hood for $100, and a full head light assembly and blinker for $75. THinking I may go LED projectors to replace the one smashed hella E-code and just upgrade both.
So, doing the math on parts and upgrades (THinking LED projector headlights instead of E-Codes). I will have about $2k left over... which is just about what a set of Xidas cost.
Need to find a local to go for a ride on 700/400 to decide if that is liveable or if I want to stick to my current rates or similar. Currently running 450/350, probably would go 550/400 on the Xidas? Or maybe 600/400? The care spends 95% of it's time on the road. Not really planning on ever running more than 200tw tires at the track or autocross. I plan on sticking to a very street friendly 5" to 5.25" pinch weld height. So what do we think of spring rates? Would I need the dual springs with the 550/350 or 400 set up? My current 450/350 set up goes juuuust loose at full droop. But never lets the springs rattle around.
I already have almost new NB top hats and all the bushings for them, so I will be doing those.
I threw down for the Trucklite 25025C projectors a few months ago. They're pretty good I guess. Lot of light out to the sides, not as much in front of you where the road is. I don't know that I would spend the money on them again.
I have Xida envy because basically all of the miata guys here in the ATL have them. They're pretty great. Most do 700/400, and they are silky smooth- better for everyday driving than stock suspension IMO. I think the extended top hats are a pretty important part of the recipe, don't know if stock NB hats are gonna work well for you. I think the need for helper springs has nothing to do with spring rate, and everything to do with ride height (and driving needs). At taller ride heights, the springs can't go loose at full droop. At lower ride heights, they can. But only if you're planning to do some driving where the tire leaves the ground.
Totaled! $4145 repair estimate. Car valued at 3811. Shwoops. $250 deductable and the buy back is $1000 (that surprised me). Got a check for $2561 and change.
Best part is, NJ doesn't do salvage titles on cars older than 8 years old or something like that. So clean title still. Now to try and find a hood and headlight assembly.
So basically you hit a deer and now you get to buy used parts and new Xidas? Solid outcome.
I threw down for the Trucklite 25025C projectors a few months ago. They're pretty good I guess. Lot of light out to the sides, not as much in front of you where the road is. I don't know that I would spend the money on them again.
I have Xida envy because basically all of the miata guys here in the ATL have them. They're pretty great. Most do 700/400, and they are silky smooth- better for everyday driving than stock suspension IMO. I think the extended top hats are a pretty important part of the recipe, don't know if stock NB hats are gonna work well for you. I think the need for helper springs has nothing to do with spring rate, and everything to do with ride height (and driving needs). At taller ride heights, the springs can't go loose at full droop. At lower ride heights, they can. But only if you're planning to do some driving where the tire leaves the ground.
Xidas don't use extended top hats. They have a shorter body so they don't need them
So basically you hit a deer and now you get to buy used parts and new Xidas? Solid outcome.
Exactly. I really can't complain at all. Other than a bunch of driving to collect parts and some time, I made out well. ONly one who didn't is the deer.
I picked up the hood and headlight today. Both should clean up nice with a good cleaning and polish/compound. Just need to find a blinker and then get the bumper off to figure out what I need to do with that.
Outcome is going well. All the repair parts are collected and ordered some upgrades. Between FM and 949 I have spent as much in the last two days as I did to buy the car.... This is quite the rabbit hole...
Bought a cheap borescope. Took a peek in cylinder 1. Can't tell if carbon build up or det damage? I did flood it this morning (Still tuning cold cold start)
Also sold the dented driver side fender for $40. I was amazed at the pile of dirt behind it.
Getting ready to pull the engine, but one of the nuts holding the stock downpipe to the stock manifold is stripped and the bolt it is on spins (guess someonen broke the stud in the past). And of course it is the one closest to the block and hardest to reach.
Will the engine come out with the downpipe still on without too much more hassle? It looks lkke it should work ok to me.
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Correct enough. It uses the pressure and temperature of the air in the intake manifold to calculate the fuel based on the (calculated) Volumetric Efficiency of the engine. It doesn't care how the air got there, as long as the intake manifold is the same pressure as the air at the back of the intake valves.
