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I was mostly complaining about having to pay to have the clutch installed lol. I want the stock clutch to last till I can find a 6 speed I can afford. If I'm paying someone else to do the work... might as well knock it all out at once.
We'll figure it out. I'm going to be a little crazy (more than usual anyway), but I'll probably need sanity time.
Virtual dyno put my last pull at 7 psi in the 160-170 hp range. I'm still working on fueling though. I think it's way better today than it was a few days ago. My car has been acting bizarre lately though... high idle, weird surging up and down when first turned on for a bit, rev hangs at 2k when driving and off the gas and in neutral... etc. But it's still pretty driveable lol.
Latest addition to the crew. My friend's (the one who owns the rhino liner turbo one) girlfriend picked up a 1994 Laguna blue to hold her over until her blazer is fixed. High miles (177k) and a good bit of rust (rockers are gone, a-pillars have rust on both, looks like the scratched the paint bad changing the windshield and it rusted from that), but the interior and engine bay are in nice shape and it runs super well. We have a whole shell that is bent on the bottom to cut parts off to weld into this one, so we should be able to get it to live for quite a while. Needed brakes bad, needs a ball joint an rear shocks, and something other than the heavy 16"rims that are on it now, though the tires are decent.
It came with new rad, new spark plug wires, new coolant hoses and a brand new roof that was half assed installed, so we will need to re-install that. She is borrowing my hard top for now.
Anyway, I managed to not get any good pictures of it, so here are a few bad ones.
It's a base model with AC and no PS, so it has a unicorn pulley.
Also, what is with this dual lever nonsense on the throttle body?
Just put a deposit on a 73k mile 2002 VVT engine that showed up in a local junkyard. $650+ tax. Gonna go look at it, still in the car, on saturday to confirm condition and give them the list of pigtails and parts I need (huge shout out to Sav for that killer thread on VVT swapping!). Time to start planning phase 2.
Otherwise, everything has been running super well. I haven't touched anything in the last 4k miles, just driven it and checked the oil. I don't know why everyone complains about issues with the belts and such, mine runs perfect. I should also have no issues selling the supercharger parts for way more than what I payed to cover phase 2. Just need to replace the bearings and the seal in the other one and slap it in my car to test.
Phase 2, btw, is likely an NA VVT setup for a bit, then snag a Kraken Subaru TD04 manifold for all the spool and responce. I don't think there is another cheapish turbo around that will spool as low or respond as quick and make about 200hp. I am open to suggestions though!
Need to research what it takes to get a VVT to 150whp. I would rather use the stock exgaust manifold since I will replace it with a turbo eventually (or find something cheap and local I can resell).
just have them clip the whole engine loom where it meets the chassis. that way there is no way they can screw up what you do and don't need for connectors/pigtails and you can do what you want with it that way. junkyards usually screw up when you have to be specific.
just have them clip the whole engine loom where it meets the chassis. that way there is no way they can screw up what you do and don't need for connectors/pigtails and you can do what you want with it that way. junkyards usually screw up when you have to be specific.
That is a very good idea and saves everyone time. I will likely do that. Also planning on getting the throttle cable and header (I can just make an adapter pipe.to connect to my current exhaust, need to practice welding anyway). Gonna call mazda and see what trans and rear end are in it. Depending what those are and what they want I will either snag them or post on the local group where the car is for them to ravage. I like this yard and have no issues sending business their way. They use to let me wander and pick parts off subarus to keep mine running when I went to collage down the road from them.
Went and looked at the motor. It started right up, but developed a miss as it warmed up. It also puffed a lot of steam out the exhaust, but that may have just been a lot of water sitting in there? It didn't smell sweet and the coolant looks clean. It has also apparently been sitting for a long time.
I pulled the weird psudo coil on plug things and cleared out the water in the spark plug wells and gave it a compression test. It was 180, 150, 180, 180.
They are going to take a look at it and see if they will sell it as a engine that needs work or if it is just a stuck injector or something. What is a good price for a VVT core? I may still get it even if it needs some work.
water happens in cold start (condensation) I wouldn't worry about it. compression is "low" in the one cylinder. I would get it...
It puffed the steam for a good long while. It idled for a good 25min and then when I restarted it after a compression test still puffed some. They are looking at it today and will decide if they are selling it as a good motor or needing work. I will likely pick it up either way.
You may want to look into the SR20 turbo as well for your goals. Good spool. Some upgrade path if you want to change out the compressor for a 60 trim and can be rebuilt because it's a JB turbo.
They sell for 200-300 from what I've seen.
TD04 is nice too because there are so many of them. I believe dnmakinson is running one and his response/spool is pretty fantastic.
Whelp, supercharger locked up. Don't know why yet, but the ends of the rotors are scored up now, so it looks like axial movement? Which would indicate the rotor pack bearings went out, or the housing or rotors got too hot and expanded? I duno, I will have to look into it more. Of course, this happened two days before an autocross, so now I have to quick convert the car back to N/A and get it ready for that.
Gonna rebuild the second supercharger I have and get that in and test it out to make sure it is ok. Then figure out what happened to this one and see if I can fix it. After that I will probably sell both supercharger setups and go after the new motor. Mine is starting to leak real bad from the main seal and a few other places, but this poor 1.6 has been on it's last legs for a while now and the supercharger didn't help.
I am starting to think about a 145-150rwhp VVT build. Should just be intake, header, tune? Yes? Will be about the same power output as the supercharger and I have been very happy with that power level.
Whelp, supercharger locked up. Don't know why yet, but the ends of the rotors are scored up now, so it looks like axial movement? Which would indicate the rotor pack bearings went out, or the housing or rotors got too hot and expanded? I duno, I will have to look into it more. Of course, this happened two days before an autocross, so now I have to quick convert the car back to N/A and get it ready for that.
Gonna rebuild the second supercharger I have and get that in and test it out to make sure it is ok. Then figure out what happened to this one and see if I can fix it. After that I will probably sell both supercharger setups and go after the new motor. Mine is starting to leak real bad from the main seal and a few other places, but this poor 1.6 has been on it's last legs for a while now and the supercharger didn't help.
I am starting to think about a 145-150rwhp VVT build. Should just be intake, header, tune? Yes? Will be about the same power output as the supercharger and I have been very happy with that power level.
For 98% of the driving I do, 150ish with some low end grunt has been perfect. And I know I am not ready for more than that on the track. We will see what I decide to do. Need to get an engine first and get it working well in the car.
I have no working ones right now. Both are disassembled. Don't think I haven't thought about it though. Though I have no idea where I would shove a second M45.
I would do a leakdown test on that VVT motor while it's still in the donor car and you can get it warm, so you know what needs to be fixed. I'm rebuilding a motor for the first time (95 bottom and 2000 top), and it's really pretty simple. Just make sure the keep the parts well-organized for when you put it back together. You can do a valve job in a weekend, pretty cheaply. If you want to to N/A, you could go with higher compression pistons and build the motor to rev to 8k, would be a scream to drive.
The only challenge is knowing where to stop. I was going to do an OEM rebuild, but it didn't take long for me to move on to stronger valve springs, forged rods, etc. Now I'm wrestling with whether to do a billet gear oil pump, harmonic damper, etc.
It's in a car, in the middle of a junk yard, so I have no way to leakdown test it. (Also donct have a tester, it is on the list of things to buy). Most I would do is a clean up and rods build. I am looking for 200hp or so max and quick responce, so a small turbo.
05-13-2017, 11:18 PM
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