Ebay rad is in. Other than having to reseat the clamp for the upper hose, no leaks so far other than the mess from the guiser burp. Hopefully this one holds up ok.

 

You're my hero.

Td04, 1.6, ~200whp, and less than 15psi.

Wanna trade cars and start completely over?

Really awesome man glad it's all mostly going good. Nice seeing my goals are obtainable too. I have got... Jack **** done. Haven't driven mine in four months. Moved across states, changed jobs three time, while fighting a one year old. Those are my excuses. To be honest though it mostly inexperience and doubt on my part holding me back. I'll get there though.

Seriously, love watching your progress keep doing what you doing. Still crazy about the Rad. A supermiata was never in the cards for me anyway but now I dont even want one. If my cheap rad ever gets a problem I'm thinking about a double pass civic Rad. Opens up a lot of room and if it works then why not? Dont see mine ever going out though...

 

Learning a new skill. Also, don't ignore your toe..... (I had to turn it in 5/6th of a turn to get to 1/16" toe in....)




I made a simple non marking tool for getting them on and off as well, so I can do alloy wheels.

 

It's /fine/. Honestly surprised it took 15k miles to do this, I was almost 1/4" toe out. The turn in response felt amazing, which is why I didn't want to know, lol.

 

Today's project is to finally get some heat shielding made.

Started with some CAD work.




Then had to cut and bend up the stainless sheet. I ordered 18 gauge and now realize that is way too thick, but, oh well. It's what I have. Suprisingly easy to bend with some heavy duty angle iron and a dead blow.





And it fits! Need to make some brackets and some parts to shield the heater core hoses.

 

That's a nice looking dipstick you got there.

 

They are $15-20 for an OEM replacement and lots of people seem to not know that....

 

They also come in different lengths and are dipstick tube specific. Don't get the wrong year.

 

I would hope anyone buying one would know to get it for the correct year!

anyway, finished up the main part of this heat shied. Looking at it now, I would have moved the folded part about 1/2" further toward the front of the car to make some future add ons easier, but, oh well. Too late now. Yes the bracket is on crooked, the spot it is mounted to is messed up because I had folded it out of the way before to make room for the supercharger intake... Overall, it came out well.

I may try welding the bracket on in the future (I have stainless mig wire) and it vibrates a bit, so probably needs a little gusset as well. But that's another day, another problem kind of thing.

 

You can still melt the dip stick handle. Sixshooter says he now removes it when tracking his car.

My shield goes over almost to engine in order to protect the heater hoses and dipstick.

Not as bad as a brake manifold, but Six said it cost him an engine (glob of plastic fowled his oil pressure relief valve).

DNM

 

Yeah, the next part of the heat sheild is going to cover that back section and protect the hoses and dip stick tube and such.

Also, on track, I am only going to be running wastegate pressure for a while, so hopefully not making too much heat. But my skills are not up to snuff for how quick this thing is.

 

Haha, yeah. Making more power made me a much worse driver than I was with every increase. There's so much more time to focus and get it right when naturally aspirated. Above 300 I'm as bad a driver as any point and shoot Corvette owner. I think it will require a lot of track time at one particular power level to get dialed in to the car as a driver.

 

Yeah, and with how little time I have to get to the track anymore, as well as this car being 98% a street car, I am not too worried about it.

And really, all I need for the track is enough power that people stop thinking I am declining the point by because I am not passing, those straights at pocono are looooong.

Also why autocrossing my DD (a 2011 Honda Fit) is so much fun. It's so slow that it feels like everything is in slow motion.

 

Getting in way over my head now. I finally, after 3.5 years of looking (and even "buying" an automatic parts car) got my hands on an honest to goodness, 1.6 Auto engine. Wasn't expensive, but did have to drive 2 hours each way. 87k miles out of a crashed car, so it was running.



Looks good, but it looks like it got a little wet with the oil cap off. This is my first time taking a head off a car engine, so I am getting well out of my depth hear, so let me know if my assesments are correct?



This is all surface and almost completely comes off scraping with my finger nail. I am thinking some scotch bright and WD40 will clean it up enough to use? Of course it is the impossible to find exhaust cam.







And it looks like some water got in the exhaust ports too. Good thing the pistons are aluminum.



Did a real quick wipe down do see what I have to work with.





This is the only spot I am concerned about on the block. It is rough to the touch and doesn't wipe off. Don't think a dingleberry hone will take that off. I have other blocks floating around, so not a huge issue if I can't use this one.



Little bit of rusty water/suface rust on the valve seats. Will have to take it all appart to see how bad that is, but I am thinking I can just lap the valves and be good to go.



I still need to pull the cam caps, but there was nothing in the oil and no debris in the head so I am not too worried about there being any surprises there.

 

Guess those 22 drag passes in one night took their toll. Fuel pump wouldn't prime when I tried to leave work today. All the relays click, but no wirr. I guess 170k miles and 31 years is a good run. Called AAA and had it towed home. Got to check out a pretty sunset while I waited and ordered a Walbro 190HP kit from 5x racing. Will do troubleshooting and pop that in hopefully this weekend. Curious to see if I am going to need to retune or not.

 

Ok. I am stumped at this point. I put the new fuel pump in (walbro 190HP) back in November. Everything ran perfect, tune was good, smidge rich up top. Put a good number of miles on it. Even have some data logs from back then.

All the sudden, a few weeks ago, it started running just a little off. I looked into it and it is 10-15% rich everywhere. Idle all the way up through high rpm, full boost, WOT. I haven't touched a thing. It took me a while to notice since I have my EGO correction dialed in fairly well, so anything under 85kpa or so is quickly pulled to where it needs to be. Idle vacuum and map readings are all as expected. The log from december when it was running right was 36F, the recent log was 46F, so not enough to make a difference.

I suspected the new FP was maybe too much for the old FPR, but fuel pressures are perfect. 47 at atmo, 38 at idle. Voltages are the same. I haven't changed anything in the tune. Need to sit down and really look at the fueling calculations to see what it is up to there. But overall, I am baffled as to what would have changed to change fueling by that much.