Bond's Yata v2.0
 

Well, I smashed my white one up so I bought this one. $1600. 168k. I didn't want a red yata but it's growing on me. Plans are to go MS then swap over all my turbo crap. God it's slow, its got all the options so it's a pig, I'm keeping my a\c this time around.

btw, it's JDM as fuck, got them 195's on my 8inch 0 offset wheels dawg

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Looks nice. How much rust?

No rust, not in this great State

Looks like you got a great deal. Waiting for build pics.

Good build. Would read again

$1600? Fucking good deal bro! :bigtu:

Did the hardtop get damaged at all or are you swapping that over as well?

So JDM! I like it.

needs more fatlace and illest stickers

Somehow it survived, It kinda got chipped on the corner by the door and scuffed up a little bit. I also cracked the top of it with my head, like a boss.

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I need to figure out what I'm doing with the wheels. The tires are almost done. I hate the chrome lip. I might sell them on CR but I need wheels to fit the flares or I'll look like a goof-ball. Maybe some spacers are in need so I can run my TR wheels.

Is it on mad tyte ricelands too? That would make it hella ill. Can't wait to see this thing become a mans car :D

Fuck yah!!! BONER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! X3

Fuck you Mike, now you're on the Jake, and Josh crew. I'm the only whitey left :cry:

cracker

red carz

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6551793_n.jpg

Ok, so I finally have some free time to work on the red car. I have everything I need I believe, I just need some opinions on how to approach this install.

I need to fix my a/c, which I think is just a bad compressor, but I have no clue about a/c systems. I also want my PS gone, and I have a manual rack from my other car to swap in. I also have a stage 3 F1 clutch I'm going to try.

The engine currently in the car isn't doing so hot. It burns a fair amount of oil, atleast a qt every 2 weeks, and it smokes in between shifts at high RPM. My other motor (from the white car) seemed to be ok when I yanked it.

Sooo, should I just remove the engine and trans and just do everything out of the car? I need to swap racks and if I do decide to blow up the current engine, I still need to tap the pan (I did my last one with the engine in). I also would switch out the clutches.

Well, after typing this out, I feel like I kinda answered my own question. It would be easy with eveything out of the car, so that's what I'll do. I'm thinking I'm going to use my current engine to learn how to tune before I go blowing up my only good motor.

oh ya, the tampon:

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gay horseshit

If you were closer, I would let you borrow my compressor. Also, I would just yank the engine and trans, It makes it so much easier, and if you have the time and skill, I don't see why not, It would probably be faster and you would have a less sore back if you would both yank your engine, and stay away from hustler.

You ninja editing mother fucker.

I am sly. :cool:

But yes, I'm just gonna yank everything out next week and do work. I need to get some OEM bearings for the clutch job. I also need to un-dent my DP because I smashed it in the wreck.

18psi,

fuck you pal

:makeout:

Quit my job so I have some time to fuxxor with the Yata.

making a mess:

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Yankin it:

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Interesting cuts here toward the firewall...v8 swap?

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All I did was swap racks, drill the pan, motor mounts, install my F1 stage 3 clutch, change front springs. and clean up a bit.

Hooking everything back up tomorrow, see if she still works.

Let me know if you need any parts, I'm trying to shrink my garage. Besides, I need an excuse to drive the green car.

A/C Compressor? Got one?

fora 1.6 but the not-so-good state of my AC was a motivating factor in it's removal. All that shit is in Irving. How do you know the compressor is bad?

I don't. I don't know shit about AC, but I am trying really hard to keep it. I might just bring it to a shop and tell them to fix it. I ditched a/c last time, and had trouble getting laid.

When was the last time you did a recharge?

Yep, this was my next suggestion. Try some cheap R134 and see if it makes the compressor work and / or fill it will that shit and put dye in and start looking for leaks.

I just drove by this ho, the paint looks great.

Ok, so a little update.

Been DD'ing the car, fixing minor problems and shit. Yanked the AC.

Began my MS install. Everything went well, until I had to start the car to match the timing up. It won't start. It cranks well at ~350rpm or so but it won't catch.

Anybody want to chime in and tell me what I fucked up? I will be searching threads in the meantime. I'll snap some pics aswell.

btw, it's ms2 with 3.1.0 extra I believe.

TIA

hahahhahahahaha


HAHAHHAHAHHAHAH!!!!HAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHH!!!!!!!!!11 11!!

i feel the same way about red na's as you felt when you picked this up. i didn't read anything else.
have fun with that car!

first things first. are you getting a tach signal in TS when cranking? are the coolant, air temp, tps, and o2 sensors displaying correct values? are you still running smaller injectors? I see nothing in the map I loaded that would cause it not to start.

Tach in TS is good, ~350 rpm or so.

Everything calibrated, atleast I think. Still have the stock inj in, 230cc.

Checked for fuel and spark, got both. I got it to start using alot of throttle, it ran like shit. Then that was it. I changed my req fuel to 1600cc engine, 230cc/min inj, 4 cyl.

What else is there? Injector delay?

I'm lost.

change req_fuel from 6.2 to ~11. not enough fuel.

It's at 11.7 with those settings. Should I be trying to start the car with the timing fixed at 10* or what?

doesnt really matter if youre not synced yet. could be anywhere right now. but sounds like you need more fuelz.


see if this map helps.

That map made starting easier. It won't idle without my foot on the pedal though. My WB02 is going wacko, it's all over the place. I tried adjusting the idle valve but that didnt do much.

What should I be messing with to get it to idle? And for my TPS, I am stock, so what are my values? 254 closed and 255 open didn't work very well.

Edit: Got it to idle with the screw all the way out. Saw 16 afr pulling 22 vaccumm. Going to richen up a bit and see what happens.

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Daddy Faeflora cured the idle sickness. Just needed more fuel.

I'm off on Friday, do you need me to get that car running for you? Are you in Denton or Southlake?

It would be pretty cool if you had a bunch of bare wires floating around in there.

Car is in Southlake. I will be messing with it all day tomorrow as well, so hopefully I can figure it out. Plus, I don't have any NT-01's laying around. LOL.

However, I may give you a call tomorrow when I get stuck, or blow my shit up.

Don't hate on my AIT wires :)

You get a special "bottom" price.

***NSFW***

I think you'd appreciate this:

http://gainesville.craigslist.org/cas/2468317996.html

lol! He is on the shitter! roflcopter

Got the car to idle, going to sync the timing and try to set up a good map so I can drive the car this weekend.

Car runs ok. I know it could use more tuning but it is getting the job done for now. Trey helped me get a decent road tune on the car, but he hates my WBo2. It sees a lot of noise in the signal, very jumpy. I have it grounded off the DB37 connector or whatever the hell it is that plugs in to the front of the MS.

Attached is my .msq and a datalog, any input is appreciated. This is N/A with stock injectors. 1.6l.

I have a spare LC-1 that you can replace later if there is a cash-flow issue...the gauge is blue.

Problems have arisen. I drove the car for about 3 weeks with out any problems. Then on my way out East, it started acting weird. I would hit bumps in the road and it would miss, tach was also cutting out. I parked it and came back from work and it didn't start. It would turn over, but there was no power to the WB02. Towed it 50 miles back home.

So I was convinced my WB02 was at fault, picked up treys extra lc1 wired it in to the DB37 connector on the front of my MS, and it got power. Calibrated it as directed, so I guess it worked? not really sure, LED never blinked so I just did it by manually connecting the wires with my hand.

Same problem as before though. It will crank, it has spark, TS shows fuel pulses while cranking. I found the 20A fuse for the fan in the main fuse box was blown and keeps blowing, so I'm guessing there is a short somewhere in that system. I'm pretty lost at this point, when I bought this car it had some pretty weird electrical glitches it seemed, and the ignition switch is kinda finicky.

Anyone have an idea on what is at fault here?

PS my dad was messing about with the car when I was gone and put ST_SIG fuse back in. It didn't do any damage I don't think as MS still connects and the car still cranks, just doesn't catch.

halp

Dad fail. ISthe WBo2 working or not? If it's not, let me know so I can send it to Innovate and get it repaired.

Yes the LC1 is working, or atleast it has power, haven't got the car to start so I don't know if it is reading correctly or not.

I checked out my fuel pump and the connector has power, but I don't hear the pump turn on when I turn the key. Searching now on how to bench test the pump.

Well since your dad put that fuse back in, you destroyed the Megasquirt's fuel pump relay driver. Jump FP to ground in the diagnostic connector and it will fire right up.

this.

Did your dad try starting the car with the ST_SIG fuse in? I am almost positive that kills the fuel pump setup on the MS and will cause the car not to start.

want a simple fix that require minimal soldering?

Jump the fuel pump at the connector next to the steering rack at the fire wall (yes, you'll need a ton of extensions and a wobble).

There's another local guy who runs MS who called AAA or something because his timing belt broke. The tow truck driver tried to do him a favor by putting the "ST SGN" fuse in and it never worked again.

yeah, what is it?

Open your DIYPNP by removing the 4 screws on the db15 side. Slide out the main board.

Remove the two wires going to the High Side Driver Circuit (from FP to IN and from OUT to 1C)

Solder a wire from FP to 2O.

On your AFM connector jump pins 2 and 7.

done, never worry about the ST-SIGN fuse ever again.



Alternatively:

Buy a TIP125 (not at radio shack sorry)

Open your DIYPNP by removing the 4 screws on the db15 side. Slide out the main board.

Remove the TIP125 from the High Side Driver Circuit

Replace.

done.

I love you gays. So after I do this, do I want to keep the STSIG fuse out or in?

There is still a bad connection somewhere though. The fan fuse has a short and it still hasn't explained why it died on me in Mckinney.

2O eh... I have a 3O, but no 2O, or maybe I'm blind. It only goes to 2L.

Test the fan circuit for the short, it's probably the shortest set of wiring on the car.

2O is factory. that would 4O on the diypnp.



which fuse is popping?

The fan fuse, 20A yellow, right above where the stsig fuse originally goes.

So I want FP to 4O? oui oui. and for that matter the bigger one or smaller one, even though it looks like both 4O has no leads running to it.