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Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 686499)
Noise is no issue, but as far as vibrations go, how bad is it really? Teeth chatteringly bad, or just more like a go cart?
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You may want to think twice about the delrin mounts. They work great but I had a set in my miata with a 1.8L and it made everything shake it makes the car feel like a drag car.lol But unless you really don't mind vibration I would stay away from its the same as a solid mount. In my 92 all the dash shook the seats, gauges everything it was not such a great idea.
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Originally Posted by Sean
(Post 686893)
You may want to think twice about the delrin mounts. They work great but I had a set in my miata with a 1.8L and it made everything shake it makes the car feel like a drag car.lol But unless you really don't mind vibration I would stay away from its the same as a solid mount. In my 92 all the dash shook the seats, gauges everything it was not such a great idea.
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It deff. gives that awesome race car feel but it gets real old real quick.lol
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Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 686573)
Jasonb
I was planning on lining up the engine vertical.. Do you think this will throw off my shifter location so substantially, like in inches, what are we talking? I've gotta look into that Vvt head clearance thing to. Also, with the ppf, are you recomending i modify the ppf to fit the tranny, or make a tranny mount that fits the ppf? Ill take any help I can get so any pics you are willing to share, please feel free to post them Thanks for your help Attachment 191150 that ppf thing. to be honest, i've never held a ppf in my hand, so i'm not sure how hard it would be to get it mounted to sr trany. i suggested giving a shot because it just looks pita to get a torsen solidly mounted to the subframe. i'll try to get some pics of mine tomorow so you can see what i'm talking about. i'll try to get some motor mounts and front sway too. the front sway (rb in my case) is really close to the crank pully. easiest fix would be to put an aftermarket pully to get some clearance there though. the other fitment issue ive got is the stock sr exhaust manifold doesn't fit so well. my temporary fix is topmount while i work on making a bottom mount for the car. sounds like your stock mani/turbo fits. in long run doesn't really matter, but sure helps getting the thing back on the ground if it does. |
Does your shifter feel fine with it bent? Or does It feel weird?.. I would really prefer having the engine vertical if I can.. It would keep me from having to cut the oil pan up a bit..
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The shifter in my miata is bent cut and welded to get it where I wanted it. It feels just like a normal shifter in any other car but when you pull it out and look at it you would think it would never work.
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Originally Posted by Sean
(Post 687478)
The shifter in my miata is bent cut and welded to get it where I wanted it. It feels just like a normal shifter in any other car but when you pull it out and look at it you would think it would never work.
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Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 687472)
Does your shifter feel fine with it bent? Or does It feel weird?.. I would really prefer having the engine vertical if I can.. It would keep me from having to cut the oil pan up a bit..
i took a bunch of pics, i'll post them up here when i get home. i also did some thinking about the ve head swap thing and i'm wondering if it wouldn't just be better to forget the cam angle sensor thing altogether. saves having to buy a 20v cas as well as the packaging headache. (i wonder how hard it would be to run crank sensor only sequential ms3. probalby would be feasible with the crank angle code work being done now). if its feasible for crank only then you always have the option later on. :naughty: EDIT: had a re-think on the sequential/crank only and it seems maybe not possible. batch mode is probably an ok compromise though. |
8 Attachment(s)
Attachment 191124
says 3" from firewall to edge of spark plug cover. Attachment 191125 Attachment 191126 passenger side motor mount Attachment 191127 driver side motor mount Attachment 191128 Attachment 191129 Attachment 191130 Attachment 191131 |
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Originally Posted by jasonb
(Post 687351)
that ppf thing. to be honest, i've never held a ppf in my hand, so i'm not sure how hard it would be to get it mounted to sr trany. i suggested giving a shot because it just looks pita to get a torsen solidly mounted to the subframe. i'll try to get some pics of mine tomorow so you can see what i'm talking about. Here are a couple of pics from my swap without ppf. Attachment 191122 Attachment 191123 |
Thank you guys for the pics i appreciate it, and it helps.
Hignstonwm, your approach looks very reasonable, I am just curious as to if the sr20s extra torque will have it's way more than an f20c.. Either way it'll likely be the way I do it.. Possible that I'll just use that Delrin from work for the connection point for it's connection.. Ball joints aren't free. Jasonb, thanks for going the length to take these pics. It's great to see the same design of tranny mount is working fine for you (along with hignstonwm's diff brace) I say fuck the ppf. Now it looks like you have the engine a good 3/4-1" forward from my mock up.. Is the a reason for this, or were you trying to get your shifter in the middle of it's stock location? Also, how would you say the space beneath the car looks for a 3" exhaust? That's the plan for me, but with my car as low as it is, I can't have anything below the frame.. Motor mounts are coming along btw. Should have some presentable material soon. |
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Here is a shot of my 3" exhaust before I got rid of the "s" bend you can see it's tight but there is room. My final exhaust crosses under the car at a diaginol, creating the room needed for the fuel pump. Both systems were even with the chassis rails. The under car hot was taken before i ran the braided lines for the fuel system.
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...P1010028-2.jpg Attachment 191120 |
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Cool thank you Hopefully the sr20s trans isnt too much bigger.
Got a little necessary trimming done to the driverside mount flange, and it looks like it'll work great. Just so you guys know, those are not even the right bolts.. Just so I could see it there. Attachment 191117 And with my little Delrin mount (same height as a stock mount) for reference of actual size Attachment 191118 Gotta pull the starter off to get the driverside mount on.. Lol I didn't have time today.. Anyways its coming together, updates soon. |
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Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 687831)
Jasonb, thanks for going the length to take these pics.
Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 687831)
It's great to see the same design of tranny mount is working fine for you (along with hignstonwm's diff brace) I say fuck the ppf. Now it looks like you have the engine a good 3/4-1" forward from my mock up.. Is the a reason for this, or were you trying to get your shifter in the middle of it's stock location? Also, how would you say the space beneath the car looks for a 3" exhaust? That's the plan for me, but with my car as low as it is, I can't have anything below the frame..
i got some pics there of my modified subframe. i wouldn't suggest this design though, since there is a lot of force going through something which isn't solidly mounted. i'm looking to redo it but haven't settled on a design yet. interested in your thoughts on this. (i want something which can withstand 500hp). Attachment 191111 Attachment 191112 Attachment 191113 Attachment 191114 Attachment 191115 |
I personally am looking at a diff brace somewhere in between you two. With a solid mount coming from a more centered top, but with the renaming ppf bracket would still be the core; after all we know it holds on well. I'll try to make a drawing and post it up. I at least think that should be plenty strong for Both of us.
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Here's that drawing I said I would make.. "the plan" anyways.. Maybe it'll vary, we'll see.
Attachment 191109 |
Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 687981)
Here's that drawing I said I would make.. "the plan" anyways.. Maybe it'll vary, we'll see.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...a/40220c8d.jpg sorry I don't have anything more valuable to add but nigga cun dra! |
:rofl:Thanks G
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i haz a sudden fascination w/ that drawing.
found this in one of my photos from earlier today. um. Attachment 191108 |
Excellent thread. Love it.
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Originally Posted by jasonb
(Post 688037)
i haz a sudden fascination w/ that drawing.
found this in one of my photos from earlier today. um. http://i892.photobucket.com/albums/a...m_DSC02219.jpg |
It looks like your design is pretty solid really. The only thing I see is that the rear bolt seems to be off-center in it's upper hole, and maybe the spacer as well. I would look to see if you can extend the subframe pickup point straight to the top off the diff, possibly with a tighter tolerance on those bolt holes.
Do you have any calipers? Should make the job a snap.. |
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Small update
Got around to "adding lightness" to the passenger side mount today.. I was using one of the 3axis cnc machines Manually. This means there was no automated program to run, it was instead manually moved on each axis independently (manually ou cannot move in two directions at once). As you may Imagine (some of you) that means making that little 45* cut was very obnoxious... :lol: I had to go 10 thou at a time in each direction then smooth it out on the buffing wheel. Attachment 191043 I am happy to see my mounts are coming right along, and I'm confident it won't be too long at all before I can move on to the tranny and diff mounts :D Anyways, as always, updates soon. |
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Originally Posted by hingstonwm
(Post 688097)
Looks like you have a little issue. Is it possible that your attachment point is to close to the pivot point? The further away from the fulcrum point the less effort required to control the load.
true that small issue i haz. i think i will try to rig up something where you have your heim joint piece so that all of the longitudinal stress isn't going through such a short lever arm (what u said). do you have any pics of yours from the side? i've been under the car and i still can't puzzle out how to fix it for good. looking for pic something like this view: Attachment 190421 |
After reading the other sr20 swap thread in here, it looks like I may be going another way with The diff mount, and I bet you'll agree. The idea is to box In the rear subframe, and place a vertical support between the top of the subframe, and the newly added brace. From there a simple bracket will extend to connect the diff. There's numerous benefits from a setup like that, and it's easy as well.
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Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 689019)
As you may Imagine (some of you) that means making that little 45* cut was very obnoxious... :lol: I had to go 10 thou at a time in each direction then smooth it out on the buffing wheel.
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Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 689019)
As you may Imagine (some of you) that means making that little 45* cut was very obnoxious... :lol: I had to go 10 thou at a time in each direction then smooth it out on the buffing wheel.
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I think its funny that the SR20DET is now becoming a motor more seen in the miata well being put in a miata but you get what im saying. Also might i ask what is your location you dont have it listed. If you are close im going to have to stop by and take a look some time.
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Originally Posted by mgeoffriau
(Post 701350)
This immediately brought to mind memories of the frustration of making diagonal lines on an Etch-a-Sketch.
Originally Posted by miatamike203
(Post 701492)
I think its funny that the SR20DET is now becoming a motor more seen in the miata well being put in a miata but you get what im saying. Also might i ask what is your location you dont have it listed. If you are close im going to have to stop by and take a look some time.
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Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 701623)
Sorry to say I'm down here in sunny south florida, so we may not be able to check each others cars out :/
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Well maybe we can work something out then. I just have to focus on getting things made again, my life has been so busy I can't keep up. Haha.
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LOL i know the feeling now that im starting school again.
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Got a bit of bad news guys. After being fucked out of the turbo, injectors, ecu and wiring harness AND loosing a place to hold the engine, it looks like I'm selling the swap.
All it is now is the block with it's coilpacks, turbo manifold, greddy Mani, and the Internals like the clutch and cams. The oil pan is done, but the motor mounts and pickup tube are incomplete. I'm asking 3000 for everything.. Which is damn good considering to buy a stock block and tranny is at least 2000. The miata specific oil pan would be over 2000. a greddy intake is over 500, this one is chrome as well.. Please let me know if you are interested, pm me. |
I have tons of extra parts ecu and more if thats what you need. Im going to be sad to see it not done.Also any news on the drive shaft?
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Originally Posted by miatamike203
(Post 711799)
I have tons of extra parts ecu and more if thats what you need. Im going to be sad to see it not done.Also any news on the drive shaft?
Unless you could make me some mounts too idk if I could. I no longer work at the machine shop.. Let's say having you girlfriends father as your boss is not the best idea. If your interested we could talk though, I'll pm you Y number |
Bump on these parts... nothing has been parted. I would trade it If someone had the right offer.. Like a nice turbo setup, or maybe cash + the right wheels.. Somebody make me an offer please.
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pm' , i need some info!! i hhave mike old car.
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SR 20 sump
Originally Posted by Boost_addict
(Post 669819)
First and foremost, if you don't like, agree with, or understand why i would do this swap, you can gtfo. I am doing this because it's fast, cool and unique.. Not because of the opinion of some Internet voice....
A bit of background; my name is Zander, I'm 19, and currently working I a machine shop. My boss let's me work on whatever I want after hours. I was previously planning on an fe3n turbo engine conversion, however circumstances changed. I was traded the engine for a 700$ turbo, and I saw the potential; all aluminum block, huge aftermarket, and of course, a tranny that can hold some real power. *Currently the engine has 264 cams, pistons, bigger injectors, and a real greddy intake. *Still has the stock t25 for now. Attachment 192214 Attachment 192215 To fit this engine is not as bad as it would seem. *With the cas positioned how it is on the bp, you loose firewall clearance. *The sr does not have this issue, and will come forward in the engine bay just as far as the bp. *The shifter even sits just an inch farther back than stock, which is really kind of nice.. Current list of mods to make it fit include: -converting the oil pan from its front sump design to a rear sump -drive shaft -motor, tranny, and diff mounts -vmount setup (not required) I started by cutting the oil pan down, and machining a nice clean flange for me to build off.* Attachment 192216 Attachment 192217 Fabbed up the walls Attachment 192218 Attachment 192219 Little drain bung Attachment 192220 Currently just needs some welds! Updates soon. cheers Bob |
ask him again in 8 years
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