Boost Addicts SR20det engine conversion
 

First and foremost, if you don't like, agree with, or understand why i would do this swap, you can gtfo. I am doing this because it's fast, cool and unique.. Not because of the opinion of some Internet voice....

A bit of background; my name is Zander, I'm 19, and currently working I a machine shop. My boss let's me work on whatever I want after hours. I was previously planning on an fe3n turbo engine conversion, however circumstances changed. I was traded the engine for a 700$ turbo, and I saw the potential; all aluminum block, huge aftermarket, and of course, a tranny that can hold some real power. *Currently the engine has 264 cams, pistons, bigger injectors, and a real greddy intake. *Still has the stock t25 for now.

Attachment 192214

Attachment 192215

To fit this engine is not as bad as it would seem. *With the cas positioned how it is on the bp, you loose firewall clearance. *The sr does not have this issue, and will come forward in the engine bay just as far as the bp. *The shifter even sits just an inch farther back than stock, which is really kind of nice..

Current list of mods to make it fit include:

-converting the oil pan from its front sump design to a rear sump
-drive shaft
-motor, tranny, and diff mounts
-vmount setup (not required)


I started by cutting the oil pan down, and machining a nice clean flange for me to build off.*

Attachment 192216
Attachment 192217

Fabbed up the walls
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Attachment 192219

Little drain bung

Attachment 192220


Currently just needs some welds!

Updates soon.

Welcome!

Very nice start on what looks like a promising build.

What are you doing about a rear end? I'm assuming you can make your own driveshaft.

I see v-mount setup. You better not be one of these V-mount guys that acutally do a 7-mount...where the trend lately has been laying the IC flat if not even titled forward.

looks like good work far!

Just because.... this swap is not worth it for motor buy in vs benefits vs cost.

Woot!

Keeping the LSD for now, have a drop in rx7 diff for when it blows.

No fucking way! Lol Ducting will be in order as well.
Idk if you heard when I said it cost me 700$.
Labor is free (well, time = money but w/e)

I don't think you heard me :)

nice work what tool did u use to bend the aluminum like that ...a brake ?

Ahh yes, you're right. Thank you ;)
Just put it in a vice and hit it with a mallet. A bit time consuming, but not hard.

:)

I love the custom pan work btw. I debated doing that for my build, but I'm just going to customize the subframe to deal with it all. Didn't want to run into sealing issues and the pan design on the VQ is bit different also.

I don't see it in the pics... but are you bolting the pan down to anything? (spare block/thick steel etc...)
I'd really recommend that to avoid warping, even if you are spacing your welding from side to side and stuff.

We have a lot of tools here. The welding table is like a grid so you can stick clamps in it; hold it down from every edge. Also, VQ? Build thread?

Good deal :)

[flamesuitON]Subscribed, because I like SR20's better than that lump in my Miata.

C

I don't understand why everyone is so defensive: the only hate towards sr swaps that I know of in here was in that retarded "sr swap bracket kit" thread where they basically wanted 2k for it.

I don't think there's anything wrong with an sr swap if you absolutely want to do it and do it right.


That said good start OP. What churbo you plannin to use with that setup?

Cool project, now baffle that pan.

Wasn't it over 3k?

I think it's interesting...and have seen some nice ones. I don't get pulling your 2.4L motor out of the SX for this, but makes sense in old 510s, early Z cars, and Miatas.

Lot of work for a little more potential, but the character of the motor is much more fitting to the Miata.

That kit is too expensive. Eventually think a twin scroll gt30 would fit on real nice, along with custom Mani.

Being baffled!

Yup. Honestly, when I drive my wife's G20, which I think weighs somewhere in the 2700 lb range, I can't help but wish my Miata had that motor. An SR20 with bolt ons would be plenty of fun, usable power...

More than just a little. A set of JWT S4 cams, larger injectors, and a T28 will get you 300whp easy. Make it a GT2871 and it's more like 400whp. This is on a stock bottom end, no headwork, and with a stock cast iron exhaust manifold.

C

Can you get parts for this engine at the neighborhood parts store?

Probably not since the DET never made it to the US.

I'm actually a bit curious about a KA-T setup on a miata now that we're talkin nissans: 2.4L, tons of torque, and its really not expensive or hard to build one up. I've seen plenty of 400whp KA-T cars around here, and those engines are dirt cheap. even cheaper than the BP

I have a KA24DE. it's burning oil and I cant find the source.

just buy another one for like 30 bux lol

Most of the parts are the same as a FWD SR20, so effectively, yes. And some of the turbo bits can be found on the 300ZX. But realistically, what are you going to buy at the parts store anyway besides spark plugs and maybe hardware.

C

I'd say that's dependent. Still lots online though.

Remember the ka24 is an iron block. I bet the sr20 with it's turbo hardware comes im about the same weight as the bp.

The SR20 also has ALLOT more aftermarket support than the KA, and the DET came boosted from the factory, so it has things like piston squirters, sodium filled valves, and slightly lower compression.

Drool - http://www.mazworx.com/

C

Alright guys, starting welding in 1:15 mins. Just going with a 4"x4" 2" tall box around the pickup with drainage area underneath. Any better ideas?

Easy example with lots of pics.
http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewP...idproduct=7069

Good luck with your build. In for lots of pictures

Sensors and seals. I own a 20-year old Miata, things like this are important to me.

70+% maintenance parts for the SR are the same between the DE and DET. The parts that are different are the few parts an auto-parts store doesn't carry for boosted cars to start with.


The only issue I see so far with the oil pan is that is looks like it doesn't slope back towards the pick-up tube.

Boost_Addict, how making a 2nd copy of everything and selling it to me? :)

^ what he said. My Miata would be happy with a DET drivetrain,

C

Modifications are more likely to break than OE parts, so I don't know why you're concerned about this.

It's a simple OBDI engine, so for sensors you have WT, o2, knock and cam sensor, which are all the same as a FWD DE except for the cam sensor. Seals? Valve cover, and a few o-rings maybe. Nothing you couldn't easily keep in stock.

Ok, I thought of ONE thing - coil packs.

C

Hell yeah! I still have that sweet rwd O2induction intake manifold and Boost Logic equal length exhaust manifold/wategate/downpipe setup that I bought before deciding to go LS1 on the S13. I'd love to put it on a Miata.

you are a bitch, here is a list of shit that's broken on my car recently that makes me consider / worry about that crap:

• water temp sender plastic cracked and won't hold the contact

It's a pretty long list as you can see.

I was going to do this conversion before I decided to just turbo the 1.6.
Over here in Ireland there are endless amounts of sr20's, and aftermarket go fast bolt on bits! All for cheap.

The only reason I didnt do it was because it as going to be a pain in the ass to fab up a sump! But seeing as you work in a machine shop and have access to all the tools, and obviously have the skills, then I think its a very good alternative to turbo'ing the original lump.

The SR is a great engine, and very very tunable, with bolt on bits you could see 400bhp easy.

Good look with the build, and keep the updates and pictures coming.

longer than your cock

Ok, you're right. This isn't the swap for you. :loser:

C

Where do you gays get all these SR20's from?

^Move along, Mary. There's nothing here of interest to you.

C

Subscribed for a sexy build. Please feed us many pictures!

To clarify the engine will be tilted back about 5-10*. The floor of the pan is at an angle, but it's hard to see due to it's low grade.

Finally got to welding today.
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This is the design I settled on for the baffle. The post have it raised 3/8" off the pan floor. During a leak test in my bathtub, When I shook it around, the baffle kept the water at least an inch higher! Safe to say it works.

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Updates soon.

If you are serious we can talk about it on completion.

This build is serious business :laugh:
Those welds look solid though

I dig this but shit, im running over 300rwhp now on my stock block and i kick the shit out of my motor everyday with no issues. Nice build but for 300rwhp, you can get that on a stock miata block no prob. Subscribed nonetheless

Someone did this build in central florida a few years ago and it came out great

I am glad this dude is actually doing this instead of some douchey fanboi saying it would be dope, and telling us were stupid for building our engines. Keep it up. I would do this if i wasn't lazy/a shitty fabricator/wanted a v8.

Don't care if you put a lawnmower engine in there to be honest. The fab work and effort you are putting fourth makes it worthy.

That's pretty much what this place is about: show people you know more than the average toolbag and no one hates on your choices or decisions or plans.


Jump in with hopes and wet dreams of someday "OWNING DA BEZT DRiFt moBILE y0" and we will give you golden showers.

Thanks guys, won't be long before I update, I'm on a tight schedule.

I read the thread title and was like........ :facepalm:




Then opend the thread and read and saw pics and was like........ :drool:

Keep up the good work, in for updates!

good build so far, keep it up :)

this is awesome....


to get cleaner looking welds on aluminum your joints need to be an L before welding (primarily the 90 degree weld at the edge of the pan)

in for updates!

In for cool build... looking good!

Cool thread. Can't wait to see it finished.

Thanks for the positive feedback guys.

Did a test fit today; fits like a glove.
Attachment 192178

Pulling the engine Monday, where I can start with my engine, tranny and diff mounts. A custom driveshaft also looks like it'll be making it's way on.

Any opinions on retaining the stock ppf or going with a conventional cross brace for the tranny, and a diff hanger bracket? I have read that it'll destroy the liveliness of the car, but I'm not convinced.

Anyways, updates soon.

it would probly be easier to go with a cross brace and hang mount, but the cool factor would be keeping the stock PPF! :D

Where's the oil pickup now, at the back of the engine, in the sump? Got any pics of how you modded it?

C

Well as for the PPF. It would depend, if your planning to keep the stock Miata diff, then making a PPF bracket like the one company could be easier. It be one brackets instead of two brackets. Also since the stock Miata diff doesn't already have locations for a standard mount, it would make that easier.

http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/t...-89/MockUp.jpg