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With the "JDM" engines, you still need to reseal the oil pan, replace water pump and timing belt components, and anything else dry and crusted. They're still 25 years old. And like you said, you wouldn't have billet oil pump gears, forged rods, new piston rings, etc. Plus UK/Japan engines can arrive quite rusty, so you're spending a lot of timing wire wheeling and painting.
I put a JDM K24 in my civic so I know how it goes with those imports. I did everything short of rebuilding it. I had most of the work done by a Honda master tech. Lots of work for 250hp lol. And expensive. I only briefly looked into a JDM engine for this car. Decided rebuilding one would be a better option. Plus I wanted to learn as much about these engines as possible. I love the car and have a feeling it won't be the only one I own.
I would do 1 shim max, you don't actually want a lot of pressure, 70 max. I start up at 120psi cold, cruise with hot oil at 80psi, it's ridiculous and I wish I had less shims.
I would do 1 shim max, you don't actually want a lot of pressure, 70 max. I start up at 120psi cold, cruise with hot oil at 80psi, it's ridiculous and I wish I had less shims.
I think I'll just do no shims. I had great oil pressure on the old engine.
I went ahead and ordered a Gates water pump as well. $45 shipped. The one currently on the engine looks new but who knows. I already have a new timing belt with pulleys. I ordered an OEM head gasket last night so outside of a few other gaskets I should be all set.
Finally pulled the mains. The main journals look worse than the rod journals did. I can't really feel anything with my nail but I can see it. Bearings on the cap side look pretty rough. I will attempt to polish and see what I can do.
I'm just about ready to start putting stuff back together, but I still don't have rings.
2 of the main journals have one visible line each going around the entire thing, I can't feel them but I can see them. I've polished as much as I'm willing to do myself. Debating just taking it to the machine shop with the head, but my gut is telling me it's not necessary.
Pretty happy with the way the block cleaned up. Cylinders look good, everything is clean and rust free and I was able to get the sludge out of the water jacket. Still no rings and no shipping on them so I just ordered some sealed power rings from Rock and I'll reach out and try to figure the OEM ones out. I ordered most of the parts from the same place as the rings and everything else arrived so they may have slipped through.
I went another round on the main journals. I had been using 1000 and 1500 then noticed most people start as low as 400 then go up. I grabbed some 600 and hit each with 30 seconds then went to 1000. Much better results. The front journal is the only one that has a line that worries me. It is also the hardest to polish. I can ever so slightly feel it with my nail, my wife and kids say they can't feel it.
Going further down the rabbit hole.... I just discovered THESE @curly you steered me clear of upgrading valve springs, what is your opinion on the pnp coil on plug kit from fab9? Fab9 is who I ordered most of my parts from. Including the rings
Definitely not. Good stock coils with new wires and plugs gapped appropriately are good to ~300hp. I still have my vvt coils running at 330. I’ve heard plenty of stories of issues with the fab9 setup. Modules over heating, weak spark, etc. most people here avoid fab9 at all costs. Prices are great, customer service not so much.
Definitely not. Good stock coils with new wires and plugs gapped appropriately are good to ~300hp. I still have my vvt coils running at 330. I’ve heard plenty of stories of issues with the fab9 setup. Modules over heating, weak spark, etc. most people here avoid fab9 at all costs. Prices are great, customer service not so much.
Ha, go figure. I ordered most things from them because when I was searching, they seemed to have what I needed. I got everything but the rings, hopefully I can call them tomorrow and just get a refund for the rings. Rock already shipped the sealed power rings.
I will stick with my stock coils, grab some quality wires. What plugs do you recommend?
Dropped the head off at the machine shop. He really didn't think it would need guides but I left them and told him if it needs even one to just change them all. Said I should be able to pick it up next week so not a bad turnaround.
I took the crank as well, he spent about 15 minutes taking some measurements and looking at it with some sort of magnifying thing and said it's good to go. The line I was worried about has no ridges so it'll hold oil and the journals are round and in spec.
Miata down...
Daughter ran a red light today in her 99 and t boned a pickup truck. Truck rolled twice thankfully everyone was ok. Trying to figure out what to do with her car as it's a total loss. I want the motor but the valve cover and one cam gear were damaged. I doubt the damage goes beyond that but what do you guys think
Dang, glad everyone was ok. Look like the Miata turned into the flip car from Fast and Furious.
Honestly the damage to the engine doesn't look terrible to me (I'm far from a trained eye). My main concern would be if the camshaft attached to that cam gear was bent or cracked, but it looks like the cam gear might've busted before that happened. If nothing else I'd bet the bottom end is usable.
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