Borderline Irrelevant Honda Build Thread
 

I know, not a Miata :eggplant:

This project got started a few months ago because I wanted a cheap platform for experimentation. This, combined with the teal color of my '94 coupe, lead to me naming this "Project Gemini".
I am exactly like NASA, except I have no budget and no idea what Im doing.

__________________________________________________ _______________

Here is the car when I first bought it for $700

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719322

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719322

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719322

Complete with ricer clear corner lights, factory mud flaps (notorious "awesome" to drag on the ground when youre slammed), steel wheels with the lip painted red, JDM fog lights, a "woodgrain" steering wheel, a hood painted flat black, no interior, and of course an engine that wont run.

After getting it home and doing some exploration I found some more interesting shit under the surface.

It was lowered on high quality racing suspension courtesy of China.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719322

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719322

The bushings were all looking pretty worn, and there was some dodgey shit going on. The front brake lines, while connected, were not attached to their proper mounting points, and were perfectly ready to get pinched, torn, etc.
Most of the nuts were not tight and one of the ball joints didnt even have a castle nut, and the other castle nuts on the ball joints and steering tie-rod ends didnt have cotter pins.

Oh, I found some free chips in the driver side door pocket!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719322

I later read them (after straightening the pins) and found they all contained some shitty looking turbo maps.

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I immediately pulled the D15B7 engine after finding it had zero compression on several cylinders.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719322

I pulled the head and found it had chipped exhaust valves.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719068

I dont know how, but I dont care. The bottom end looked otherwise fine, and the pistons showed no signs of contact. Luckily my buddy had a good condition head from a D16Z6 that he gave me. I also bought a Skunk2 intake manifold from another buddy and tossed that on there.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719322

This is a common hybrid that has been around something like 15 years. Putting a VTEC D16 head on a non-vtec D156 bottom end. The result is ~10.5:1 CR and a better cam/head. The only real downfall of this setup is that the rods in the D15 are very skinny and dont take to boost well. Most say 180-200hp is about all you can throw at the rods before the bend/break.

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The engines mounts were in good condition, but are notorious for tearing even with moderate power. There are lots of fancy aftermarket mounts available, but they cost upwards of $200. The cheaper solution is to fill the stock mounts with polyurethane.

Attachment 232776

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719068

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719068

I think they came out pretty nice.

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Engine back in the car. Now equipped with a VTEC head, ARP head studs, an eBay 6 puck sprung clutch, and a new flywheel.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719068

Started mocking up the turbo setup. Im using a used cast T25 manifold I bought from a guy who does hill climb racing, and a BEGi T25/T28 chinacharger. The turbo had been sitting for years, ever since I parted out my old NB.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719068

Push-lock -8 AN drain line

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719068

On to the fuel system. In true MTnet fashion I went with Bosch EV14 injectors (550cc).

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719068

and I fixed that fuel feed, which had the swaggin JDM fuel filter delete done by the previous owner. No fucking idea what that asshat was thinking. So I had to improvise.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719068

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719068

Shortly after this, I got it running (shitty video, dont bother watching).

I rigged up some super ghetto charge pipes so that I could limp it 30 miles to my friends shop so he could TIG up a downpipe and charge pipes.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719068

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719068

This is what the car was looking like at this point

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443719068

Setting up intercooler and charge pipes

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443721814

and downpipe

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443721814

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443721814

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443721814

The final product

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443721814

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443721814

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443721814

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443721814

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443721814

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443721814

__________________________________________________ ________________________

I needed a place to put a couple gauges, and the a-pillar pod was out of the question. I wanted something that would not be that visible from the outside of the car.
The only place I could really figure out where to put the gauges would be where the center air vent is. The problem is that its a weird, leaned-back, concave surface. So to make it happen, I would have to do something I had no experience with. Fiberglass.

My first attempt was so bad I through it in the garbage. I dont think I even took a pic.

The second attempt was only mildly shitty.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443721814

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443721814

another coat of resit after sanding, plus filling in some gaps

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443721814

more sanding

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443721814

I then put a coat of "Rondo" on it. I had never heard of this, but I read about it on the replica prop forum. It is a 50/50 mix of bondo and resin. Its basically a thick mixture you can paint on, which fills in everything and makes a smooth surface.
What I didnt know until I tried it is that it takes an eternity to cure (even out in the sun), and even then it always felt kinda tacky. After sanding through the tack the results were pretty good though.

After a coat of satin paint

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443721814

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443721814

So we are finally caught up.

The car has been up and running in its current state for a couple weeks.

The details

Engine:
D15B7/Z6 "mini me" engine, 10.5:1 CR
Bosch EV14 550cc injectors
GM 3 bar MAP
Running on CROME Gold software on a chipped ECU
Skunk2 intake manifold
Cast chinese manifold
ISIS/BEGi/Chinese T25/T28 turbo (seems to be burning oil at idle off and on)
CXRacing FMIC
2.5" cold side piping
2" to 2.5" hot side piping
No BOV
Knock-off Tial 38mm v-band wastegate, vented to atmosphere
Stainless downpipe 2" flared to 3", currently running to right behind the firewall
3" aluminized exhaust kit (not installed)

Suspension/Brakes:
Blown bushings everywhere
KYB GR-2 shocks
ebay ~400# springs and threaded sleeves
Ground control 340# springs and sleeves (not installed)
Stock sway bars
Acura Integra brake upgrade, including rear disk

Interior now has carpet and seats from a 99-00 Civic Si

Last Sunday I took a few photos of the car. This time I used a camera that was more valuable than the car instead of just using my camera phone like a pleb.

Attachment 232772

Attachment 232773

Attachment 232774

Attachment 232775


Finally, as customary, here is a couple little street pulls

just builds a car with horrible torque steer...drives limp-wristed, with one hand so he can waste all his time and effort into a guardrail.






nice work none-the-less.

One of these days... with the knowledge i didn't have back then, i will build one last Honda. I just don't know if it'll be an EG coupe or an EK hatch.

would it be louder than your current dickmobile?

Possibly. More power typically means more louder in an n/a application.

What's on the floppy disk?

EK :drool:

Or at least that's what I would want :likecat:

Nice build OP :bigtu: you've done exactly what I've always wanted to do with a D series motor :likecat: :likecat: :likecat:

Its mostly bump steer. The alignment is pretty fucked.
Kinda feels like a death trap. Keep me in your prayers.

I think Ive seen your posts on Honda-Tech, way back when?

Its actually a coaster

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443736507


I like the Dirty D. Cheap, light, decent torque.


More to come guys :party:

$15 for 6 coasters? Pfft. I have BOXES of floppy disks. I should start a business.

Yeah, but the condensation just soaks into them and they get all nasty.

I also have a shit ton, no idea what to do with them.....until now

Holy crap that wastegate placement actually works?

I had an employee come into my office about a year ago complaining that her desk legs were uneven and made her desk wobble. I gave her a stack of 10 or so 3.5" floppy disks and told her to use as many as needed. Pretty sure she's still using them.

why wouldnt that work?

I've been tempted to do something like this just because how easy those cars are to boost, and how many cheap parts are available, and how easily hawnduhhs take to boost.

That video confirmed why I've never done it lolz

I was trying to find a datalog, but I cant at the moment.
The boost control is fantastic. I dont think it varies by half a PSI from when it hits 6 all the way to redline. Quite a bit different to the creeping beast it was on IWG, back when it was on my Miata.

Ill have it running with electronic boost control soon enough. A couple more PSI, plus more WG sealing for spool.

Its a hoot to drive. Talk about cheap, this whole car has cost me less than my Shanghai-S kit costed me.

I cant wait to get the suspension sorted. There is a local corvette club that sets up an autocross event down in St. Augustine. Its awesome because you get lost of runs, as many as you want.


So right now Im dealing with a smoking problem.
When the car is fully warmed up, it will intermittently smoke at idle. It doesnt always happen, but about one out of every 3 stoplights Ill see smoke pouring out from under the car.
The plugs all look fine, and I even pulled the wastegate off and swabbed my finger into the runner and found no oily residue. It was dry, black soot. So Im pretty sure its coming from the exhaust side of the turbo.

Do you guys think the oil seal could have gone bad from sitting? or, does it sound more like drain line/crank ventilation?
The latter I would think would not be a problem at idle or when warmed up because the oil pressure is lower then, but Im not sure.

Ive been trying to find a SR20 T28, but havent had too much luck. I did find an SR20 T25, but Id like to go bigger for when I get a stronger bottom end in this thing.

Nothing wrong with that wastegate placement. Works just fine. I have similar on my MX6, rock solid boost control from wastegate pressure (even back when i was running a 7psi spring) all the way to 30psi with two stacked springs and a controller on top.

3rd gear datalog from tonight. Its so nice and cool out. 70 degrees according to intellicast.

That puts IAT about 15 degrees above ambient, which seems pretty excellent considering that these cars actually have the IAT sensor mounted in the intake manifold. Lots of heat soak I would imagine.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1443849075

Ive been playing around with virtual dyno a little bit.
I forgot to screenshot it, but even running on smooth roads my graphs have lots of big spikes and troughs with 0 smoothing. If you look at my datalog above you can see how fast the data is being aquired, and consequently the RPM line is not smooth looking. Im thinking this is the problem.

With smoothing at 3 I get graphs like these, which dont look right, and the numbers are significantly higher than they should be, even when underestimating curb weight.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444399038

For these next runs I went through the CSV file and thinned the data evenly. Basically just removing 2/3 of the rows. It looked a bit better at 0 smoothing, and pretty nice with smoothing at 3, but I dont feel good about this from a data perspective.
I need to fix it at the source...

Since I put this engine together the mechanical timing has been wrong. Part of putting the VTEC D16 head on a D15 bottom end is that the timing is off roughly half a tooth. I was just barely able to get the base ignition timing set, but the mechanical timing couldnt be fixed without a different cam gear. Yesterday I aquired said cam gear and got the timing right for the first time. After setting the ignition timing this is what I got in virtual dyno based on 2nd gear pulls with the data "thinning" method mentioned above.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444399038

Green line is tonight, with the mechanical timing fixed, dark red line is 2 days ago with the cam advanced half a tooth. So according to virtual dyno, it has lost a bit of power with this fix. No other adjustments made, and without the wideband being datalogged Im not really sure if the AFRs have changed much or not.

:dunno:

I'm not sure that it's just the fast polling that's causing the spikes
I've tested slow and fast polling and it still gets smoothed out easily on smoothing 3
Perhaps your car is just making really peaky and jumpy torque

Would you happen to have any screenshots of your logs in VD with 0 smoothing?

Oh zero is always super hacksaw looking. on any car. I'm talking about 1 at least.

here's 2
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444410278

here's 1
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...ge2pre-e85.jpg

and another 1
on a miata
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444410347

Oh, to live somewhere that old civic don't have rust!

Once I am done building (and de-rusting...) my Miata I want to do a late 90s 3 door Civic build for a daily.

If you could find a bonnet in the right colour it would look less ghetto, you have built a pretty nice car otherwise.

^Ive been trying to find one. The hood/bonnet that is on the car is pretty banged up as well. Not that I could paint match it anyway.

18psi,
Here is the above run, with two thirds of the data thinned, compared to the original data set.
0 smoothing:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444438669

1 smoothing:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1444438669

Looks pretty shit compared to your stuff.

Im wanting to replace my turbo with a journal bearing garrett T28. While Im at it Im thinking of revising my oil drain and feed.

The feed s -4AN with a 1.5mm restrictor. Im thinking of going to -3AN with no restrictor.
The drain is -8AN push-lock. I notice a lot of you guys are running -10AN.

Thoughts?

If you're not having issues with smoking or turbos blowing up due to lack of oil then I wouldn't touch the feed line.

Can't hurt going to a -10 return but if it's not broke...

..if it aint broke

And the whole sizing thing is mostly trial and error. Even the garrett site just tells you:
"try this...if it smokes...try this"

etc

I like the civic I had a 30r b18a a few years back that was a blast. Get a matching hood and it would be really nice. I also have a ball bearing gt28r forsale that would go great with this build pm if interested.keep up the good work

That Drain looks kinked. Maybe it's the angle of the pic, but I'd look at that for smoke issue.

Also, Check out the Vibrant Oil restrictor. It has a default bore size of .060" and two inserts for 0.045" and 0.03". Easy to change the orifice size if you're still experiencing smoking, just change out the Jet size. Fits with your existing -4AN feed. Linky

^lmao

The color looks pretty close, no? Maybe when I go to repaint this thing Ill go with "splash green". Then Ill just have to paint my charge pipes purple...

So some work has been done. In particular I upgraded the turbo. Retiring the old BEGi turdblow for good.
I got a "T28" from a Nissan Pulsar GTiR, seen here compared to the BEGi T25/T28 hybrid:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446755758

As mentioned above, the drain line was looking a little dodgey.
I tried to "fix" it by remaking it, and added some zip ties for cross sectional support.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1446755758
It seemed to smooth it out and prevent it from forming that kink, but after a few guys on another form kept insisting I try it with two 45 degree fittings, I decided to give that a shot.
It was quite hard to install because of how close together the ends of the fittings ended up being to each other, but it looks like it should be more effective.

Attachment 232769

Attachment 232770

I ended up using a -4AN banjo with a restrictor on the new turbo.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kinugawa-Ban...BV3O5R&vxp=mtr

I also plumbed up the water lines and the electronic boost control solenoid.

Attachment 232771

Much improvement. you'll like the real garrett, and looks like the drain is proper now.

I got my electronic boost control working!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447648687

Wow good effort! That's a nice hole you've got there. :p Hopefully in for bigger and better things

This is a notoriously weak bottom end. I was hoping I could push it a little bit but it let go while working out the boost control duty cycle. A couple quick spools to around 10 psi and it let loose on a freeway exit. Luckily it was close to home so I was able to tow it.

Now Im wrestling with the question of what to replace this engine with.
I could get another stock D series, one with a stronger bottom end. Or, I could get back to work on the built engine (I need a crank and one rod). Or, I could swap for a bigger and better engine.

The last option would most likely be a B20 from a Honda CRV.
The other day I was tuning a B20 swapped civic running 12 psi on a T3 turbo and it was a lot of fun to drive. It really put you back in your seat.

Doesn't the CRV motor have mad torques?

Torques are pretty mad

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447687176

-and the bottom end will hold around 300.

:eek3:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447687339

Started tearing her down a couple nights ago.

Getting started:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448044666

I pulled the intake manifold off and disconnected the harness to get it out of the way. This gave me the opportunity to get a look at the hole a little bit better:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448044666

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448044666

The rod karate chopped the oil feed cast into the block. When it let loose I was quick to clutch in and cut the ignition. My only hope is that the crank is still salvageable. Im sure someone could get some use of it.

I then pulled the turbo setup off and put it in a bin to keep it clean and safe.

Boost in a box:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448044666

After the turbo stuff was out of the way, I started pulling the AC bracket (front torque mount) off, underneath which I found another window in the block:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448044666

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448044666

Here is how she sits at the moment. Im ready to get this old heap yanked out:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448044666

The only question is what do I put back in?

Ive been talking to a few people and it sounds like my best bet is picking up a low miles JDM imported B20B, which was found in the following vehicles during the late 90s:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448044666

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448044666

and of course

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448044666

and then I have a buddy who rebuilds B series transmissions, and Im planning on getting a Integra GSR box from him.

Just to put into perspective how much better the gearing is between B series and D series, check out these here graphs:

The Integra GSR transmission (again, that is the one I want if I go B20B) vs The shortest D series transmission (the one I wish I had on my engine before it 'sploded):
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448044666

and here is the GSR transmission vs the transmission I actually have in the car (Civic DX trim):
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448044666

I think gearing alone will make the car a lot more fun, not to mention another 400cc of earth shattering honda torque

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448044666

Delete

It has been a long time since Ive updated this I havent gotten much done because Im lazy and its hot out but here is the super fast cliffnotes of the past 8 months.

Got sweet JDM truck engine overnighted from Japan for $300
Attachment 232764

Chinese turbo parts because fuck it #baller
Attachment 232765

Spent a shit load of money on a transmission (I miss D-series already) that was recently rebuilt. Of course it had stripped mount holes because Honda kids are retarded (myself included probably).
Fixed it with standard bolts to confuse future owners.
Attachment 232766

Attachment 232767

Tried to install engine in car. Didnt fit. CRV motor mount is all stupid, almost as if it wasnt designed for Civic. Get that shit out of here.
Get full of fuckit attitude, buy expensive aftermarket mount instead of filling a used stock mount like a true #baller would.
Attachment 232768

https://i.imgur.com/PLr2MaVh.jpg/

Why did half my post disappear? Was it edited?

No one edited it. That is all I saw before you posted the update.

The B20 is notorious (widely known) for being the weakest B series block by a huge margin. The sleeves are extremely weak. Not trying to crap on your plan, but its known for failure in the Honda world. Just do some searching around google, it will be quite evident. A B18B would be a much better option, and it would make more power and torque, because it can handle those power levels without failing. The .2 litres won't be missed.

But, good news is you would only need a B18 short block now if bad things happen, since you have the top-end already.

Only commenting on this part because, unlike Miatas, I am not new to the Honda boost world. This is a complete pipe dream. Literally the same as saying a 1.6 BP will handle 300 TQ at 3000 RPM, no way in hell. Do a little searching around. Even the much stronger B18B would hold that power and torque level for only a "borrowed" amount of time.

I know all about the B20 sleeve issue. Things that are "widely known" in the Honda world, are frequently bullshit.
Are they weaker than other B-series? Yes. Will they crack at a mere 300 HP? Probably not.
300 HP is the upper safe limit with P75 rods, the B20 sleeves will reliably hold more than 300 HP. Ive done it numerous times. One of my long time tuning customers has been making right at 300 HP for several years now and he even tracks the car occasionally.
There are lots of things I have to worry about on this setup, the sleeves are near the end of that list.

Well fuck.

More late update cliffnotes:

Got LS Integra intake manifold because the CRV one would stick through the hood. -1 torque, +1 aerodynamics.
Attachment 232758

I decided to clean up shop a bit by selling a bunch of random shit as a lot. All this garbage priceless Honda parts went for a grand total of $80
Attachment 232759

Unfortunately in this lot I accidentally included the stock 60mm throttle off of the B20 engine, thinking it was a shitty 55mm D15 throttle. Turns out the one I set aside was the shitty 55mm.
Well shit. Fuck it, 55mm has more velocity for throttle response or some shit. #racecar Had to make sweet blockoff plate to prevent crazy vacuum leakage.
Attachment 232760

Put turbo stuff on engine and starting mocking up. Charge pipes dont fit anymore. Stupid engine is different size than old engine. Why did Honda have to make everthing so difficult? The forums told me it would be like legos, not an erector set.
Attachment 232761

I later bought a 3" stainless mandrel bent downpipe from a guy for $30. It was for a different manifold, so it would require careful modification to make it fit. Since it was such a nice piece, I decided the best thing to do would be to MIG it together with mild steel wire.
Attachment 232762

Shit actually fits well. WTF. Its almost like effort was applied.
Attachment 232763

More belated updates with sarcastic commentary coming soon.

TQ kills things, HP not so much. FWIW, B18/20 rods are identical, P75, and hold the TQ just fine, hence why B18B's hold the power fine. The sleeves are manufactured differently, and are weaker, by design in a B20. I am not going to argue, simply because people don't search Honda B Series turbo build info. on a Miata site, so it matters none that you are wrong.

Cool little build tho! In for updates, reminds me of the old days.

This is a bit of an oversimplification. RPM plays an important roll in this issue in my experience.

I know. Hence why I said
I know.

Eloquent statement, old chap.
Since Im wrong, can you please tell me what the safe limit for the B20 sleeves is? The B20 is much, much cheaper than a B18B, so I want to know exactly how much more power I could make for my money.

Updates continue (still not caught up to current).

Putting a B-series into a Civic, that was designed for a D-series, means that certain small things need to be changed. Luckily the 92-95 Civic chassis is very similar to the Acura Integra chassis, which came with B-series. So of all the Civics, the 92-95 are pretty easy. You basically just need a different transmission bracket and axles, plus some little odds and ends. One such odd and/or end, is the throttle cable.

It was immediate obvious that the stock throttle cable would not work, so I go to Honda-tech, repository for all things stupid and also some honda technical information. Here I read that I needed to just buy a new Acura Integra throttle cable to make it work, and I also read that if someone was so inclined to use their existing cable with a modified bracket, that this someone would be both "ghetto" and "retarded". I have no desire to be either ghetto, or retarded, so I bought a nice new official Honda throttle cable on eBay.

Now, I thought, I was definitely working smarter, not harder. This would be the moment that turned this whole build around. Things would start coming together quickly and easily as I took the path of least resistance through careful research and smart purchases.

Upon receiving the cable, I installed it and found...
Attachment 232751
THIS FUCKING SHIT DOESNT EVEN FIT WTF HONDA-TECH!?
Guess who is retarded now!? Me. Im retarded.

Cut. Weld. Bury the pain. Move on.
Attachment 232752

Back to cliffnotes.

Made pipe longer so boost can go where it goes
Attachment 232753

Traded old D-series Garrett T28 GTiR turbo setup for brand new turdbonetics ball bearing T3/T04B
Attachment 232754
Decided good turbo would make car too fast. Chinacharger is much more sporting. Sold for roughly what I originally put into the T28 setup.

Bought Koni Sport shocks with Ground Control coil/sleeves from some dude.
Attachment 232755
Again, car may handle too well. Dont want to attract media attention when I start demolishing lap records. My friend is using them on his Civic instead.

Bought a nice Honda so I dont have to think about how ugly the green car is
Attachment 232756

-and here it is. All ready to be tuned and make boost.
Attachment 232757

Hopefully soon Ill be posting videos of it doing the full tilt boogie and spinning these shitty old tires.

Lol I don't post from the garage.

deleted

Fuck you mobile

please delete

Wrong thread..

A bagel head.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...0a742350c9.jpg

I realize I'm bumping this. Not gunna lie though, I think you mounted this bracket backwards, i.e. it's supposed to angle in towards the manifold.

Oh damn. I forgot about this thread.
As for that throttle bracket. I have no fucking idea. I ended up cutting it up and welding it together so it worked.

So after playing around with the CRX (Ive always wanted a CRX) I realized that it was the car that I was interested in making "good".
I had fun building a dirt cheap street car with the green civic, but the long term goal of developing it into a a good race car was misguided. The chassis is just not as good as the little CRX. So I shined it up a little and put it up for sale. Here's the last pic of the engine bay before selling it (minus the air filter):
Attachment 232750

Some kid drove all the way up from Tampa to buy it. As he drove away I thought for a moment about how much of a POS it was while being pretty quick. Hopefully I didnt kill a teenager.