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Borderline Irrelevant Honda Build Thread

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Borderline Irrelevant Honda Build Thread

 
Old 02-07-2018, 12:00 AM
  #61  
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CRX update time

Ive been seriously considering prepping this car for a race class. My first inclination was to see if I could run in PT, but even with the B16 the power to weight is too far out of line. So Im now looking into the global time attack "street" class. The rules are weird enough to allow even a highly modified car run pretty easily. Still just researching.
In the mean time Im going to try to get out to some more local autocross events. Ive only been once in this car since Ive had it and it was a bit of a **** show because I was so unfamiliar with the car.

The car had a relocated little motorcycle battery in it when I bought it, but it was not forgiving enough for me and I eventually killed it. So I decided to put a more normal sized battery in the back. I found this cool, steel, dimple-die-stamped battery holder on ebay:




Still need to hook this little breaker up somewhere


I bought this "lip" because I think it will work well with a splitter. It a solid 2.5" lower than the factory Si lip


I also finally took the time to get the little B16 on the dyno to see what it would do


Pretty decent considering what it is (A torque-less wonder)
Here is a video as well, because it turns out that spinning a 1.6 to 9500 rpm in 4th gear is the dyno equivalent of an endurance race

Last edited by Full_Tilt_Boogie; 02-07-2018 at 11:46 AM. Reason: added dyno sheet with torque
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Old 03-06-2018, 11:42 AM
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Its rust busting time.

I pulled the hatch off because there are a couple of holes rusted through right around the hinges.







I also pulled the sunroof out because I want to delete it. The whole assembly weight 28 lbs.





I gotta say, with the sunroof and hatch off, the car feels really peppy. This little B16 would be great in a truly light car, and I dont think the Si version of the CRX is truly light (<2000 lbs IIRC).

The current dilema is how to get rid of the sunroof. The obviously (propper) solution is to find a good roof skin of a std or HF. But that is going to be a bit time consuming, mostly because Im not finding any CRXs within a few hundred miles of here that would make a good donor candidate.

The other thing I thought of doing was cutting a piece of similarly shaped steel from another car, like perhaps from a hood. The curve is in both directions, so I dont think a piece of fresh, flat steel will do it without buckling. Then, just welding it in very carefully and slowly with a million tack welds and hoping I dont warp the roof.

Finally, I could buy one of the sunroof "delete" kits where you rivet in a piece of carbon fiber or aluminum and window weld it around the edges. But its not the best for looks and not cheap.


^Pretty sure that is going to be illegal in any racing other than maybe Solo

EDIT:
After some research

Originally Posted by NASA CCR
15.13
Windshield / Sunroof Clips
, Headlights
Windshield clips are recommended to hold the windshield from ejecting in case of a crash. Sunroof clips are
required. Glass sunroofs (moon roofs) must be removed or completely covered with tape on both sides.
Taping
to protect headlights from rocks is recommended.
Originally Posted by NASA Honda Challenege rules 2018
4.5 Sunroofs/Moonroofs:
4.5.1
All cars equipped with Sunroofs or Moonroofs made of glass must be either:
a) removed from the vehicle (in this case arm restraints required); or
b) replaced by an acceptable covering such as sheet metal, aluminum, or composite (i.e. Lexan,
carbon fiber) that is securely attached to the vehicle covering the opening, or
c) covered with tape on both sides of glass.
4.5.2
All cars equipped with Sunroofs or Moonroofs made of metal must be either:
a) retained if additional fasteners are used to secure them to the vehicle; or
b) removed from the vehicle (in this case arm restraints required); or
c) replaced by an acceptable covering such as sheet metal, aluminum, or composite (i.e. Lexan, carbon fiber) that is securely attached to the vehicle covering the opening.
So thats the NASA CCR and Honda challenge rules.
Unfortunately, This car could never run in Honda challenge or PT with the engine that is currently in it, but still that is good news as far as what NASA should be okay with.
If I did ever end up running in NASA I would probably end up building the car for ST4.

I also found this:
Originally Posted by SCCA Street Modified Rules
Removable OE hardtops, T-tops, targa tops, sunroofs, moonroofs, and sim
-
ilar roof-mounted panels may be removed/replaced with alternate panels
provided that the area of interface is limited to the original perimeter of
the t-top, sunroof, etc. or utilizes the OE panel mount points, and that the
contour of any replacement panel surface does not vary from the contour
of the part being replaced by more than 1.0” (25.4 mm) in any direction.
The material used to construct the alternate panel and the method used
to attach it to the interface is unrestricted.
Any actuation mechanism and
the associated wiring, if any, may be removed. Vehicles utilizing alternate
(non-OE) hardtops will be considered as open cars in regard to Section
Im not sure where I got the idea that a carbon fiber plug would be illegal. At this point now Im thinking I just might make out out of fiberglass...

Last edited by Full_Tilt_Boogie; 03-06-2018 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 03-06-2018, 08:23 PM
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Lexan is also popular to replace a sunroof with.
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Old 08-09-2018, 06:54 PM
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Old 03-14-2019, 05:17 PM
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I figured after a year it was about time for an update.
I would like to have made more progress with this car during this time, maybe have gotten it out on the track a bit, but unfortunately life had other plans.

We left off in the middle of rust-busting around the top of the rear hatch. Here is what I was looking at after cleaning off the flaky stuff.





I started by cutting out the cancer and MIG'ing in some filler pieces.







After grinding down the welds I applied some POR15. Hopefully this stuff will prevent rust from forming any time soon.



I didnt take any detailed photos after painting, but it came out "okay". Im not interested in building a show car, I just dont want it to look like **** and to leak water. Im satisfied with the results.

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Old 03-14-2019, 06:21 PM
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Bought my first home in June



I took this photo after putting up some cheap T8 fluorescent fixtures.
As you can see I have the CRX situated among the post-moving mess, meanwhile the the Corvette sits out in the driveway. Im sure the neighbors think Im nuts...



The new house is much further from work than where we were living before, which means lots of revs when commuting in the Honda. Pretty similar to Miata gearing.



One of the issues I've dealt with since buying the car is it overheating in stop-and-go traffic or even when driving at low speed for extended periods. It hadnt been a huge problem, but going to get lunch during the summer would often cause coolant temps to break 215 degrees (This is where I have the ECU set to turn the CEL on). If I turned the AC off the temps would drop back down after a few minutes. Since the overheating only happened at low speed I figured a fan upgrade should be an easy fix. It had an OBX slim fan on it with no shroud. Here is the cute little radiator with the fan removed.



and after retrofitting an OEM civic fan (lots of trimming required)



I topped it off with distilled water and Redline water wetter. Happy to report, zero overheating issues since doing this mod.

This is what the engine bay is looking like at this point. The extra large air filter conceals a large radius 3" ID velocity stack



I had been putting off replacing the heavily heat-cycled bridgestone RE-11 tires for a while. The debate in my head was between getting another set of 16" tires with their higher price, or do I spend a little more to get some lighter 15" wheels and enjoy less expensive tires in the future. I finally caved and bought a set of 15x7.5 Konig Hypergrams. Tire fitment is a little challenging on these old civics, the wheel wells are pretty small and as much as I would have liked to have to 8+ inch wide 6ULs, its not very feasible without fender flares.





Taking my fresh Federal 595RS-RRs to get mounted at the shop



Goodbye 16" Buddyclubs



Hello 15" Konigs



The difference between the old worn out tires and these was dramatic. Additionally the larger sidewalls added some compliance that I appreciate. The steering is less sharp feeling but still excellent imo. Wet traction is good too.


Last edited by Full_Tilt_Boogie; 03-14-2019 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:58 PM
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In October I left Lexus and started a new job at Land Rover/Jaguar. Think these would fit on the CRX?



I hadnt done much with the Honda for a while other than drive it. But there was a problem with the CRX, a problem that can be found in the dyno chart posted a while back... Too few torques.

So, I had an engine builder friend of mine put together a high compression B20 short block for me. Its nothing too fancy, just a basic rebuild with ARP rod bolts and some special "B20 VTEC" pistons that have the proper valve reliefs for my B16 VTEC cylinder head.

Started pulling things apart



I dont have an engine hoist so I was planning on borrowing one from a buddy. Then, my impatients got the better of me and I decided I was going to try pulling it out without one.





It wasnt elegant and it took much longer than normal, but I got it out



Heres what the B16's bores look like after running forged pistons for the better part of a decade and regularily being rev'ed to 8k+ rpm.



Pistons were pretty built up with carbon. Beleive it it or not, even with that big dome the CR was only around 11.0:1. The B20 is going to be 12.0:1.



Rocker wear looks pretty good.



I cleaned a bit of the carbon out of the combustion chambers. The one of the right is just brake cleaner, the left was soaked in some MOC intake cleaner stuff I got from work.



What do you guys think about the heat spots on this flywheel (The clutch PP looks similar)?



It had an ACT HD street clutch that was holding well, part of me just wants to throw it back together. If I hadnt take the engine out the clutch would have probably remained in there, working, for a long time. Im not sure I want to spend the money on a new clutch just because Im looking at it.

Head studs installed in new block



Special B20/VTEC head gasket



Head on and torqued



More updates coming soon!
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Old 03-16-2019, 08:07 PM
  #68  
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God i miss messing with these old B series engines,i did this exact engine build for an integra several years back. I have a 4 door EG shell that i have been threatening to build an engine for and put back on the road and reading this thread makes me want to do it so much more.
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