Bryce, make sure you're using the right hardware. It's not just any old M6x1.0 bolt - the OEM bolts are grade 10 (marked with a 10 on the top). They look the same as all of the other bolts, but they aren't.

It stretches a long ways, and it's always good to have left over for other projects. I'd buy 2-3 roles to start, you may or may not have to buy one or two more. I highly doubt you'll use more than 4 roles though.

Interesting. I used the other set of bolts I had for the damper. I did not realize they used a different class bolt on the damper. However, the 10 must stand for class 10.9, as there is no such thing as a grade 10 bolt, per the SAE J249 standard. I just hope the pin on my new boss never ever ever comes out.

Curly, do you approve of the rescue-it brand tape that Failfairy posted? I do like me some amazon prime.

Yes, that's the good stuff. I thought I posted that.

I'm going to order that stuff when I have the moneyz. Screw Bank of America. I'm switching to a credit union now.

Tomorrow I'm going to pass emissions testing and get my wheels balanced again. I hate discount tire with a vengeance now and will never go back to them unless it is a free service.

The pin is just a locator - there's no way that tiny-ass pin is strong enough to take any form of load from the balancer. It's the same with the crank woodruff key - if the crank bolt comes loose you are screwed. It's just there for alignment.

I thought the same. I torqued all the harmonic damper bolts to the same torque (95 ft-lbs). Yet, the locator pin still came out and all the bolt holes became ovals. What was missing? Maybe Loctite, but that is not called for in any of th torque specs.

Yo Sav, I think I'm going to start torquing crucial bolts based on their size rather than factory torque specs. Class 10.9 M6.1 should be torqued to 133 in/lbs vs the factory 95 ft/lbs. Would this make a difference?

I failed emissions today.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1337033404

Things about my tune that are relevant to this failure:
AFRs were hovering around 14.7 on the high speed test, but kept dipping close to 13 on the low speed test.

Ignition timing is 29-30* at 2500 rpm (high speed) and 26-27* at 2100 RPM.

VVT angle is 0-1.5*, depending on load. Basically no advance.

Injector timing is 385*.

No EGR. Even though I could control an EGR solenoid, my exhaust manifold doesn't have an EGR port.


My current plan is to put on the stock intake, or relocate my current intake to behind the radiator, maybe even with some ducting to bring in more hot air from the exhaust manifold. I need to retard the ignition timing, but I don't know how much. I'll also do a full recalibration of the LC-1. Last but not least, I'll run VEAL while on the dyno.

Do you guys have any other ideas? If I don't pass the free re-test I'm going to call the DPS and see if they offer a waiver for vehicles converted to run on E85. I'm pretty sure my fuel system will handle it.

You need colder intake air to get NOx down, and less spark angle. Get AFR back to 14.7 at low speed. I'd run 50% authority on EGO correction and run 20* of spark angle in cruise, and 12* advance at idle.

Thanks for posting this, I hope to pass inspection with my daily later this year on the VVT engine.

Alright, well my air is as cold as it can get then. Air filter is in front of the passenger tire. I'll test as soon as they open in the morning. 70*F vs 80+*F should make a difference.

20* on the spark. Sweet. Idle spark won't matter for emissions. You and I both have to take the ASM test. FWIW though, I should lower my idle spark advance, its currently at 17*.

I'll tighten down the EGO correction settings to pass the low speed.

Another thought, seafoam. This motor has over 90k miles on it now.

I hope I can manage to lower nox. This 10:1 compression is a big jump compared to the 9:1 2 liter I passed with last year.

If only I had working EGR, this would've been no problem, lol. On that thought, maybe I should get EGR working on Wednesday and pass like a bauce on Thursday morning. If I have EGR, I'd wager a kitty that I would pass with out any changes to my current tune.

looks like it's a bit too rich and too hot.

get your EGO and fuel map to hold better targets. timing is what i run in same area, i have no problems hitting my numbers...but I'm closer to 15.0:1 at those speed tests which is where you need the timing advance.

Advancing timing will cause higher nox.

Would a 180 degree thermostat help me any? The current 200 degree stat needs to be replaced because it is sticking closed, causing a clt temp overshoot every time I drive the.car.

I will shoot over your clt baby

You need a 180 degree thermostat. You want a stant one. Joe Perez has a great video about them.

Cooler temp plug, retard timing at test speeds a bit. Richen mixture (that's right, being too lean will raise NOx, which is the real problem here). Hydrocarbons should clean up with the new plugs you throw in, and reduced ignition advance if it was aggressive (good for torque, but leaves unburnt fuel).

Lol

Drink enough beer and you'll see two Joes testing four thermostats.

Plugs are already newish BKR7Es. OMG! It looks like the auto stores are no longer carrying them.

What are your target AFRs and advance numbers at test rpms/loads?

Ignition timing is 29-30* at 2500 rpm (high speed) and 26-27* at 2100 RPM. I'm not sure what load it was at, but my timing is within a 2 degree range at those RPMs. For the next test, I will be making all timing boxes in that range a certain number.

AFR Target is 14.7. I wasn't quite hitting it (a little rich) on the low speed test, which caused the high HC. That will be fixed. My main problem is too much NOX.

It seems that ever since I've had this car, I could get some misfires when driving in the rain. when I installed these ls2 coils, I've started getting some major misfires in the rain. It will start with one cylinder misfire, then progress to two or more. I can't accelerate over 4k rpms. I never have a misfire in the dry or even very humid conditions, just in the rain. Every time it rains, my car transforms into a Subaru.