Bryce does the VVTeez
 

I'm on a quest for ultimate street prowess!!! Just kidding. This is for my own personal enjoyment, and embarrassing Corvettes, maybe an autocross or two. It's my daily driver, but I have a backup car for when things break. I'm retaining A/C function, no power steering. Now on the to good stuff.

The guinea pig will be my 92 Miata, with 140k miles on it. It's had a Greddy kit on it for over 2 years now, estimated at 220 - 240whp at 15 psi. It could be much less, but it was enough to break 2nd gear on my 5 speed. I've been fighting an oil leak ever since I tapped the oil pan, removed the engine and dropped the front subframe multiple times attempting to fix it. Finally I said forget it and decided to build a motor. All of a sudden, a 2 liter fell into my lap.

My end goal is 350whp. I've ridden in a 300whp Miata with an SC61 before, so I have an idea of what it would be like.

Turbo of choice - GT2871r, .86 A/R on the turbine side. I will be porting the wastegate to avoid boost creep issues. If you know anybody with a good used one, I am very interested in buying it.

What I have:
-Built 2.0 stroker motor, previously made 474whp. 9.0:1 CR. Stock 99 head, 95 block (Thanks to Rharris19 for this one :) )
-750cc Deustchwerks fuel injectors
-M-tuned fuel rail, with dual JIC braided SS feed lines (Bling Bling!)
-M-tuned fuel pressure regulator
-Walbro 190HP fuel pump
-Braineack MS, parallel install MSI
-6 speed
-1.6 ACT XT with a street disc
-7lb Fidanza flywheel
-3.909 Torsen
-Forge Motorsport BOV
-Homebrew coolant reroute with a Moss spacer
-Enthuzacar 3" exhaust, with cat
-Begi S4 Manifold and Separated gasses DP
-KYB AGX's with stock springs, prototype FCM Tophats, and 36mm bumpstops
-Energy suspension bushing set, yet to be installed.
-205/??/R15 Toyo T1Rs on Konig Heliums

Still to purchase:

Immediate:
-Turbo
-Oil and water lines, ARTech's stuff looks tits. I'll go with his stuff most likely
-Intercooler. CXracing 29x9x3 overall dim, the same one Levnubhin has
-Intercooler pipes. CXracing kit will be the most likely. I don't have a welder.
-Roll Bar
-Oil Temp guage

Eventually:
-Walbro 255 fuel pump
-Better clutch, most likely 1.8 ACT XT with street disc
-Flywheel to go along with the clutch
-Water injection
-Begi Intake Manifold
-Better suspension setup
-Paint Job

Worries:
-Torsen may blow up, I'll avoid hard launches on drag radials until I get an RX-7 clutch-type LSD
-Can't pass emissions with these injectors, maybe upgrade to MSII for increased resolution, or swap in smaller ones to pass
-Will the S4 tubular manifold hold up to heat cycles at this power level?
-I'll fail at life and everything will explode

The new motor is going in this weekend without the turbo. It'll be cool to increase my displacement by more than half a liter. :) I'll be simultaneously tuning for emissions and breaking in the motor, with an expired inspection sticker.



Sorry, no pictures, yet. I'm at work, but don't worry, I'll start showering you with them soon enough.

Am I missing anything? Let me know what you think.

In for pictures and progress....looks like you got everything sorted pretty well

Pretty nice set up for just a DD

I agree with the above statement... Hope that '99 head works out well for you Bryce. Had no idea you were mating it to a 2.0L stroked block though. O_o

I have an extra racing beat lightwight fly wheel if your interested. It does need a new friction plate (Racing Beat sales that part for around $80)

I'm also going to be in Houston this following weekend for the 24 Hrs. of LeMons (MSR-Houston) so I could deliver it so there would be no cost for shipping

I ended up trading your 99 head to Robert to offset some of the cost. Your head will be going on an 11:1 compression ratio 2 Liter N/A screamer motor I think.

Miatamike: Sending you a PM.


Thanks for the comments, it looks like I did my research well so far.

i know sombody who may be selling a 2871!


in for pics and progress as well.

Subscribed.

Pics of car so I know what to watch out for...

Moss thermostat spacer came in today. Looks like I'll have to get it machined to fit the thermostat, along with drilling and tapping it for the CLT sensor and heater line.

Here's the car as it sits, with no coolant or intercooler pipes. Notice the horrendous oily mess on the concrete. It goes all up and down the driveway.
Attachment 200472

The motor, with Magnecor plug wires to keep stuff out of the cylinders.
Attachment 200473


More to come later!

damn, car looks really damn good!

Ok...so don't run the classic red NA with heliums...got it.

Subscribed.

i dont know if this has been said yet, and i dont think i seen it in your list! but a wideband would be a good thing to invest in!

/sarcasm/ I was planning on tuning it with a narrowband AF gauge, that would be fine Yo! /sarcasm/

Yeah, forgot to list that. I've got an innovate LC-1.

good! :bigtu:

O_o Also Bryce, how dead set are you on running the GT2871R?

Made some progress yesterday. The old 1.6 motor is out.


Squeezing into the gated area. It's nice to have a small car.
Attachment 200323

Before I started, minus the hood.
Attachment 200324

And here's to make it seem like a very quick engine removal. VOILA, it's already out!
Attachment 200325
Attachment 200326


Weight reduction, damn that's a dirty engine bay. I'll be painting under the master brake reservoir and cleaning EVERYTHING... Again.
Attachment 200327

Side by side shot of new and old. I measured the 1.8 to be just over an inch longer.
Attachment 200328



Pretty dead set. I toyed with the idea of running a GT3271, which is a little more capable, journal bearing, T3-flanged, and HALF the price, but since I already have a manifold and downpipe that I got for a good deal, I'll stick with the T2 flange and enjoy better spool.

True... The reason I asked is that I have a GT3076R comparible turbo with T2 footprint that is brand new. It is setup for EWG use though...

Too big Too big!

I like to make the car move, not sit stationary and spin the earth beneath it. :)

Haha! Alright. Just wanted to throw that idea out there... What A/R are you looking for on the GT2871R?

.86

Energy Suspension Hyperflex Master Set. Black is not graphite impregnated in the Miata application, just in case anybody still thought it was. These will go on with flush mount grease fittings. The question is when.

Attachment 200016

Solid start man. Looks like we'll have another big boy powered car out there soon:)

Great build so far, can't wait to see the finished product!

Update:
Attachment 199532
Clutch and flywheel installed.

Attachment 199533
Tapped the holes for PCV and Brake booster with NPT threads. They'll get plugged and I'll be using that hole right thur for the brake booster.

Fueling stuff.
Attachment 199534
Attachment 199535

I love this lens.
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Where'd this come from?
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Test fitting the top half of the IM. It's a tight fit with the VTPS on there.
Attachment 199538

Ordered fuel fittings from anplumbing.com. I decided not to do the whole fuel system in SS lines, just the feed line from the T to the fuel rail. It's cheaper/easier that way. I did have a revelation. For going from -6an to 5/16 hose barb, use part # 700106. It's not listed and I had to call to find out about it.
http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/image...108erl_w_m.jpg

Nice build.

Coils? If those are 1.6 coils you'll probably need something stronger for 300+ if you want to run a decent gap.

Digging the PTFE lines and fittings. They're on my list of things to do.

I would look long and hard at whether the MS1 is going to take you to 350whp safely. It won't do knock control, individual trims, good closed loop feedback, etc. AEMs are cheap, shoot me a PM and I can get you a good deal on one. You're going to want crank triggering, good knock control, etc.

I assume the PTFE fittings mean you are looking at E85 at some point - you may need to do something larger than a 750cc injector if that's the case. I put a set of ID1000s in my car ~6 weeks ago and I'm liking them so far.

I don't know what the ACT XT street disc is rated to, but you may want to look into something rated for serious power. Last thing you want to do is throw an intake manifold onto the car, make 370whp, and slip the clutch. 949 twindisc FTW.

Don't rely on water injection to make the power. With a good IM and the .86 hotside you should have no problems making 350whp on straight pump gas. Once you have the tune dialed in, stick a 3gph nozzle after the intercooler for ultimate safety.

300wtq and the panties start dropping. Attachment 199531 I made 310whp/305wtq at 18psi on that turbo on a low-compression 1.9 liter and a stock intake manifold. 2 liter, good IM, ~21psi, 350whp may be a low estimate.

I spent 4 hours yesterday putting the motor in, hardest engine insertion I've ever done. Just over an inch longer than the 1.6 and all of a sudden it becomes much harder to put it in. I used a load balancer for the first time and can't say that it made it any easier.

Bolting in the motor mounts were equally difficult. It almost seems like the engine is sitting too far forwards, based on the way the motor mount bolts were lining up. I remember there are slots in the PPF (with the top nuts on a sliding bracket) where the transmission mounts to it, are these to account for different distances between the engine and differential?

I also assembled one of the SS Teflon-lined hose ends. Piece of cake! I'm talking about the smaller -4AN stuff too. I don't know about the Earls stuff, but I used Parker industrial fittings and hose.


Thanks! Your setup is what really inspired me to go with this turbo.

Upgrading to MS2 may be all I need. Crank triggering, increased resolution, knock control, "supposedly" better closed loop boost control, no individual trims though. The AEM does look significantly better. You have me thinking on that one...

The thought never occured to me. ;) For now though, only part of the fuel system is teflon-lined. The injectors were a good deal though.

Only 300ft/lb, ACT underrates them, but it definitely won't get me to my goal.

This is what I love to hear!

I can't wait!

Yes, forgot to mention Toyota COPS are planned, or maybe LS1 coils like Ben.

:dunno:

My S4 manifold has held up for 2+ years. Use the provided brace and no worries.

Sick build man, I have a similar motor, can't wait to see how it stacks up to yours!

Have you seen DIY Autotune's new monster coil thread? They've got some serious coils out now. I found the link: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t43821/

If this manifold ever cracks, I'm going straight to an externally gated full V-band setup.

I saw the coils, they look amazing, but I don't think (hope) I'll be needing that much juice.

I figured out why the motor was such a PITA to install... Today, in the daylight, I noticed this.
Attachment 199383

So I did this. Apply liberal amounts of JB Weld. There was only a single thread left.
Attachment 199384

Problem solved.
Attachment 199385

To make sure the CLT sensor won't make contact with the thermostat in operation, I tapped a 1/4 to 1/8 NPT bushing with M12x1.5 threads. Go slow when drilling it out. The bit caught and destroyed my brass test bushing.
Attachment 199386

Finished thermostat housing and spacer. I'm T-ing the outlet of the heater core into the lower radiator hose as it's primarily a street car.
Attachment 199387

Where do you guys buy your new GT2871Rs at? They don't exist in used condition.

subscribed. ATPturbo.com sell GT2871R

I think turbotim is an ATPturbo dealer if I'm not mistaken and might be able to help or at least guide you in the correct direction for one.

Guess what? I got a fever, and the only prescription is more AbsurdFlow.

Great build so far. Are you sure you want to go with the slower spooling .86 for 350whp? This is my friend's 2.0L S14 on the .64:

http://www.codyace.com/albums/Dynos/...dyno.sized.jpg

S14 ≠ Miata

It's pretty much been decided that the .64 A/R will not flow 350whp, on a Miata. That can be seen Here. Come to think of it, that's the exact motor that I'm running.

I did notice while searching other car forums for a 2871 that they claimed (and posted dynosheets, like yours) that the .64 A/R could make upwards of 400whp. What gives?

should have called me. I was off all week!!!!

LMK if might have a free saturday or two.

Nice job on the reroute, it's all exactly what I did. I milled down the top of the thermo cover and welded a plate over the top to avoid the lack of threads. I milled it so low the cutter took off the top of the lip for the hose. Might look into it, if your welder is good enough, it'll remove a potential leakage spot.

I've been sick all week! :(

I'm gonna try to get it running naturally aspirated and run at the TAMSCC AX on Saturday. Should be very doable. Reason being is that there's been a change in plans for the hotside parts, and it will take some more time to acquire them.


I don't have any kind of access to a welder. That's what Braineack did too I noticed. If it leaks coolant, at least I'll know where it's coming from. :)

I think Paul has a welder

A TIG welder?


That goddamn piece leaked. Apparently I didn't use enough JB-weld. Doesn't matter now, I'm having it welded.

I should have the car running and driving tonight, will post pics later. Just gotta get the thermostat housing and EGR port welded closed. I'm itchin for some break-in miles!

Man, this build is coming along awesome.

I wish I'd watched and seen your reroute plumbing, just shipped off a Kia waterneck the other day I would have given to you since you're local.

I had tried myself to see if the 1.6L neck fits with a spacer and it's way too close. I'm running mine spacerless, and still only have an inch back there, and still dinged it when swapping motors.

Well, I had a hell of a time getting the oil pump primed on Saturday.

Story of the year: Commercial vacuum pump connected to the turbo oil feed line will prime even Chuck Norris' unprimed oil pump. Shop vacs are for pussies.

I had a few problems getting the car to spark in all 4 cylinders. Then I discovered an oil leak (OMG!) coming from the crank pulley area. As it turns out, the spring on the crank seal had come halfway out and allowed it to leak. Thermostat relocation via the coolant reroute makes timing belt jobs a piece of cake. I had it off in 5 minutes.

Oil leak fixed, I was still struggling to get all 4 cylinders to fire. A trip to the store to pick up some BKR6Es solved that problem like magic. Apparently one of the plugs, while it looked exactly alike all the other plugs, liked to repeatedly foul with fuel.

I have grounded pin 1J to keep the fans running when the engine is on right now, as my MS doesn't have the fan mod soldered in yet.

Up and running now, with a nice drivable tune within 10 minutes using VEanalyzer live on Tunerstudio. I haven't played with the Variable TPS yet, but I have high hopes for it.

There is no replacement for displacement. Even without a turbo and running the base spark map, this sucker has more torque down low than my 1.6 ever had. I just can't wait till I bolt a hairdryer onto it.
Attachment 198998

IT'S TIME FOR A DRUNKEN UPDATE! I'VE BEEN DRINKING WHATEVER I CAN FIND IN THE FRIDGE.



I'm at the 100 mile oil change now, and am happy to report 0 scary metal flakes in the oil. I'm switching to Rotella Dino oil now, and will switch to synthetic sometime after 1500 miles based on Savington's reports.

The motor has been making a knocking sound since it's first breath. After listening to it with det cans at the last HMC club meeting, we deduced it was coming from cylinder #3 on the exhaust side of the head.

I pulled apart the head yesterday, and would like to report that timing belt jobs are a freaking cinch with no front thermostat housing.
http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/7711/dsc0133w.jpg
http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/5937/dsc0140.jpg
http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/1371/dsc0136o.jpg
http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/5503/dsc0139me.jpg

One valve on the exhaust side of cylinder number 3 is .01mm too loose, and 1 valve on the intake side is .02mm too tight. I'm lucky, and a G, so I can get away with simply juggling shims around to make everything right. It should be back together tomorrow (today). Pray for me! No unusual wear on the cam gear caps or camshafts, according to my eyes. What do you think?
http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/5750/dsc0149k.jpg
http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/8471/dsc0144vg.jpg

Here are some detail shots of the coolant reroute. I used the stock upper radiator hose pipe and another hose from Orielly, will find the part # later. On the Lower radiator side, I used the Begi Water pump inlet, and used the radiator hose splice from what is now the Begi racer reroute along with a 90* NPT street elbow hose barb to Tee the heater return into the line.
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/7825/dsc0151z.jpg
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/7876/dsc0155k.jpg
http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/3689/dsc0152j.jpg

Oh yeah, my Camshaft seals were leaking. Hopefully that is the last of the small leaks I've found with this motor. Timing belt jobs ain't nothing, so this was actually fun.
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/9053/dsc0150wv.jpg
http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/4059/dsc0142copy.jpg

I read that the master TurboTim won't be working on Manis + DPs until September/October, so I'm contemplating bolting on a 2871 or 2860-sized chinacharger with the S4 manifold and downpipe I have lying around, as a temporary cure for my boost addiction. I'd be very happy with 250whp right now. Thoughts?

You musta been drunk, but I understand what chasing valve shims will do to ya.

Shoulda left break-in oil in there longer, 800-900miles. I may be wrong in this case for such a highly built motor, but it's the way I've always done our bikes and cars. People get anxious to change that first batch out.

I hope the motor quietens down a little now. Seems crazy that less than half a thousandth could do that...

Does your intercooler-throttle body pipe clear the upper radiator hose? Mine is kinda smooshed up on the pipe.

Those pictures are big. I hope less than half a thousandth does that.

Valve lash adjustment shims: Making elementary-level math seem like rocket science since 1999.

I think I may need to buy a micrometer. Questions will be posted in a new thread regarding this.

I think of the first batch of oil as a way to wash out any metal shavings etc. that got into the motor while being rebuilt. I'd prefer that they didn't recirculate back through the motor, hence the short change interval at first.

When you've got $3k+ into a motor, oil suddenly becomes a relatively cheap assurance. Heck, Hustler changed his after 5 minutes of running. I also wanted to check it for metal flakes due to the clanking sound I'm hearing.

Right now I've got a 90* coupling on the throttle body with an air filter attached to it. If I run into that problem while fabbing my IC piping, I will cut an inch or more off the radiator-end of that hose. If you've got the Begi TB inlet pipe, I have no idea how to get around that thing.

You could also ditch the throttle body adapter and just run a 1.8 TB for more room.

The results are in. Setting the clearances in the head did not fix the knocking sound. Recordings will go in another thread once I feel satisfied with the quality. Will a compression test be of any use here?

I mounted the AIT sensor into the intake pipe now instead of ziptying it to it. I haven't had time to test it but I'm sure hot restarts will be much better.

Excellent idea. Only problem is that my stock ECU is still controlling idle, so I'd have to go standalone to control the 1.8 IACV. It is a good excuse to do that, and upgrade to MS3 at the same time. :)

Are you still using HLA's or did I miss something? Did you check each of them and make sure one isn't collapsed/stuck?

Heh, I've been asked twice today, so it's going in my signature now.... I've got a stock 99 head.... FTW!

Sorry, I should've read your first post, it shoulda been obvious since u were shimming them.

Time for an update! You thought this was my build thread huh? No, it's my unbuilding thread.

The car has been sitting for a few weeks while I wait for the opportunity to remove the engine, AGAIN.

That happened last weekend. Many thanks to Stan (pitlab77) for helping out. I owe him an Aventinus. :)

One cool thing to note:
Jacking the rear up and lowering it onto wheel ramps gives you an extra 4 inches of height versus rolling it onto the wheel ramps.

We had the motor out in 3-4 hours.
He slacks off, allot. Just kidding!
Attachment 197226





Insert: Picture of Stan posing on my car with caption "Hustler, wish you were here"





Why I hate Texas and what I do about it.
Attachment 197227

Here's my coolant reroute coldside hose in it's entirety.
Attachment 197228




Today I started like this...
Attachment 197229

and ended like this:
Attachment 197230

That was my first time removing a head from any engine. It was pretty easy.

Perfect candidate for water injection, no?
Attachment 197231

From what I can tell by looking at the bottom end, nothing is visibly wrong with the motor. I'll be taking it down to the shop tomorrow, and hopefully picking it up in 2 weeks, after I get back from Disney World!

Now that the motor has been in the shop for a few months... I'll post an update. Here's the piston from cylinder number 3. How can this happen without boost, or any excessively lean conditions, on the base timing map? This should explain the knocking sound, right? Everything else on the bottom end checked out.

Attachment 195068
Attachment 195069
Attachment 195070
Attachment 195071
Attachment 195072
Attachment 195073
Attachment 195074

Holy motherfucking melted piston.

Could someone please explain to me though how that would cause a knocking sound. I can't think of how it would unless the piston warped like fucking mad??? Better explanation please.

Was this a piston from the 2.0 motor? Is that a Wiseco? I haven't seen miata Wiseco piston carnage before.

Also just because you have good AFRs that doesn't mean a cylinder is not lean. Mebbe an injector is fucked.

I want an explanation too, lol.

This is a JE piston meant for a Honda, 85mm bore.

That also occurred to me. I am sending the injectors off to be tested, otherwise, I don't know what could've caused this. They are pretty new Duestchwerks 800cc (maybe 750?) injectors though

Can you post pictures of your crank and main bearings?

Well, there's the problem, you only put the power adder in #3