It's the difference between collectively and all at once. Collectively on a track I might spend 10 seconds at full load, 1 second here, 4 seconds here, a few seconds here... But never will I go from 30 to 150 full load all at once then do it again over and over. Also, in regards to length of these pulls - I wish my 30-150mph pulls only took 6 seconds, but in reality these are much longer pulls and much more frequent than 1 minute per hour. I am very hard on the car.

Let's compare my internals to a delicious marshmallow... I can collectively cook my marshmallow in an open flame for 60 seconds, not all at once, a few seconds at a time will probably net me a decent looking treat after 60 seconds of total direct flame exposure. But if I toss that guy in open flame for 60 seconds straight I end up with two very different types of smore. Follow me? ;)

Props to this random clip art site for helping me add a spot on visual representation of the marshmallow story.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1404336240

What exactly do you plan on doing to prep the block and head for new MLS head gasket while its all still in the car? I started looking back at all the head gaskets I've done and realized I've never dealt with an MLS before. I guess that's what I get for owning old cars :loser:

Luckily with MLS gaskets you don't end up with that stubborn gasket material that is baked to your mating surfaces. In fact, depending on the manufacturer you can get away with simply wiping the surface down with brake cleaner. Other manufacturers like to use a coating on their outer most layers of their MLS gasket that ends up partially sticking to the deck. This can be cleaned up with a light scuff pad and brake cleaner. You really want to avoid anything that visually changes the surface of the deck.

Don't use this:
https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/i...SVgfJmgU5pVN8d

Or even though it's sometimes called a "gasket removal" bit, don't use this on aluminum.
http://i1.ytimg.com/vi/2lM7IgqMAiA/hqdefault.jpg

After it's cleaned I take a straight edge and a set of feeler gauges to check flatness. On a car using an MLS gasket the tolerance is usually 0.004". Anything outside of that it needs to go in for deck surfacing. Obviously your cylinder head is more likely to warp given the differences in materials.

Man, Mexico looks a whole lot like 696. ;)

Purely a doppleganger :laugh:

This past Sunday I was able to get back out to the garage for a bit. A few small action items were crossed off the list.

• Route AN lines
• Weld AN fittings to coolant necks
• Fabricate a mounting system for the Koyo
• Mount the shroud to the trunk

AN line routing was actually way easier than I had anticipated. In the wheel well of the NB you have a plastic cover on the front/inner side, when you remove that you have access to the area on the bottom side of the trunk just in front of where a roll bar mounts. I used a hole saw and punched out a circle on each side allowing the supply and feed lines to route comfortably under the car. Then using a more robust version of a conduit mount I fixed the lines near the frame rails, one on the passenger side, one on the drivers.

The next step was to prepare the coolant necks on the engine... Simple stuff here.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1404841306

Now for mounting the Koyo to the shroud.. I wanted to leave the Koyo as un-molested as possible to keep things serviceable down the road. So for this I took my factory upper mounts and cut them down to weld them to the shroud. This would allow me to easily slide the radiator in and out of place using the rubber isolators. I chopped them down and cleaned them off for welding.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1404841306

This would cover the bottom/top who knows the orientation at this point.. For the other end I decided to use hardware, so I welded these two tabs on that will be drilled to line up with existing 10mm threaded holes on the rad.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1404841306

Here is what I ended up with, it now only takes a 10mm wrench and a minute or so to remove the radiator.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1404841306

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1404841306

Mocked up, everything was looking pretty good. I used rivets and 3M Window weld to mount the panel in place and make sure it was air tight. Once the 3M urethane cured up the assembly was really solid.

Next steps are to remove the radiator and prep the back for paint, then work on a fan shroud and wiring up some relays for fans.

so crazy lol

I love it

You should do this to my daily driver. That'd be great. Kthx.

More Sunday-funday updates.

Everything is mounted in and functional so I went back and did some finish work on the trunk.

Weather seal around the opening:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405346397

I chopped up my old fan shroud and welded on new tabs for the Koyo radiator, then I mounted the two fans:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405346397

I will be adding a couple of bleeders to the system and I had a hole to plug here so it seemed like a great place to start. It also helps tremendously when trying to fill the system:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405346397

I needed to route it out of the trunk (onto the ground where I'd place a drain pan). So I went with aluminum tubing and a small opening in the trunk.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405346397

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405346397

This is a pretty neat concept but are you sure those fans are going to move enough air through the rad to keep temps reasonable? Also are you worried about radiant heat from the exhaust below the opening at all?

I'm pretty sure the fans will be pulling, not pushing

For sure.

I'm thinking more along the lines of the huge airflow difference between a couple of tiny fans compared to the 40+ mph wind at speed on a traditional front mounted setup mounted in the natural air stream.

He's got the vents in the trunk to pull air out and through the rad, and I think he's going ot need at least a small scoop of some sort, but I won't speak for him, I'm just a spectator :giggle:

Correct - Fans are pullers, the area above the trunk is low pressure and heat will naturally want to raise - no reason to fight nature.

Also correct on the "scoop". At some point ducting will be built into a diffuser. Also the exhaust will be routed differently. Although I think for this season it will work just fine. If not I'll make changes.

i always thought you'll have the radiator mounted on the trunk lid....

Yeah this is a valid concern. In typical driving conditions your fans wont even turn on so these guys have a lot of flow to make up for. That's why I'd first like to see if the fans can sustain on their own, then I'll move forward with the ducting.

The aero engineer I'm working with seems to be confident this will work quite well but I've never seen it done on a Miata so who knows.

Hose length makes a big difference in the effort required to move fluid. Often, if it is a longer distance, a larger diameter will be used for the run and then necked down to the requisite size on each end. :2cents:

This is true. It makes it a pain in the ass at work when fluids specs 2" hoses on stuff with 1.5" ports but thats how this shit works, and it sucks.

But now that you mention it. Using an inline water pump to assist flow on this thing could probably be a mega help to cooling capacity. Ron Davis here you come.

If you set up a scoop/diffuser and then duct the back of the rad to the trunk, there's potential to create some serious downforce in addition to cooling, isn't it? In addition to the already beneficial weight over the rear wheels.

So this might be even more beneficial to your spin happy monster.

Right, it will help the situation but it's not the proper way to produce downforce. The Drag to downforce ratio created by this setup is not optimal. Where as a typical wing will produce more downforce and less drag because it's easier for the air flow to roll off the back of a wing as opposed to changing it's direction and pushing it through a radiator/deck lid.

As for the flow of fluid, you're both correct. The line size is important and I'll likely end up with an electrical pump regardless.

I was flagged down last night by this gentlemen in a very beautiful Evo 8. This car was immaculate and very very tastefully done. He just wanted to give me props on the Miata but I wanted to get a couple of pulls in so I offered to hit the good ole Mexican freeway.

He was all for it - after looking over my car I asked him what kind of power he's making and he said it's currently on a low boost e85 tune making 697whp. I almost called it quits at that point but I figured what the hell. I'm not too proud to get my ass handed to me by properly built Evo.

Here is the specific car... Car makes 905whp/632tq on full kill - and was built by English Racing. Seriously nice build.



We hit the freeway and I pointed my go-pro forward expecting to catch the view of him walking away. After the first run I reached out and changed the point of view.. The car in the far left lane is a C5 Z06 with a violent list of mods. The runs were solid - despite both of us brake boosting I jumped out pretty hard on each run. The response was instant and the car held its own. Each run he blows by me after the Vette and I let off around 160mph.. Too fast for me!

wow :drool:

Today i learned that i want a purple intercooler.

That's the same place I've dyno'd a couple 1.6 miatas and my own car. Yeah, they kind of laugh at me.

They've also been doing a lot of GTRs lately. If you see one of them, just bow out while you're still ahead. Nice racing though.

Hahahaha, that's Akash's old car, he just sold it to start building a GTR.

Do you know what kind of power you're making now (sorry if I missed it)?

I've had a few 400-450whp Evo's hurt my feeings before. Taking down a 700whp Evo in a BP miata is crazy.

Last time the car was on the rollers I dropped a valve but most of the tuning was completed and I set it up as a hybrid boost comp tune (just add boost and a compensation map keeps my fuel perfectly in tune).

Based on where I left off I should be in the neighborhood of 450-460 to the wheels.

So when will there be a fab9 transmission solution?

Already done. I call it a "Transmission Compensation Map". As torque increases it tapers off the boost. :facepalm:

So basically you're doing the same thing I'm doing right now. Starting at a lower boost number to keep the torque low then tapering boost up as rpms climb to keep making more power with rpms. But you're doing it with a tranny that can take 300ftlbs reliably and I'm doing it with one that'll take 240.

so, you've got a subaru with their 'requested torque'

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1407266765

But requested torque is make believe torque units. Its really just a convenient way to make electronic throttle work.

actually on the later cars the target boost and wgdc tables are dictated by the req torque table, with one of the axis being "requested torque" (on the boost control tables) so it is able to be set up like soviet is saying.

too bad he used an older screen shot :giggle:

Well yeah, all the dbw cars are like that. But requesting 320 on the req tq table does not have any correlation to 320ftlbs.

My "requested torque" is based on my right pedal. Unfortunately it's entirely less accurate and is often offset by emotion/adrenaline .:giggle:

right, but now it has direct correlation to the boost tables, instead of the actual throttle opening angle having direct correlation.

Meaning now you can control boost and throttle opening angle independantly, if you so chose.

that's a huge difference

Alright ladies, new things to come as soon as the tax season rush is over with Fab9.

Old turbo system is REMOVED. No more bottom mount GT3076r. In it's place I'll of course be running our new Fab9 EFR Side Mount Manifold setup paired with a beautiful EFR 7163:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423801517

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423801517

As soon as the first 7 orders are filled, we will slide my name somewhere on the list. We just received enough material to produce 10 manifolds so production has been cranked to 11 - on that topic, thank you guys for the response it's still the plan to keep these manifolds on the shelf and ship them same day. But for now we play catch-up.

Suspension has been removed, turbo system has been removed, intake mani has been removed, FPR has been removed, engine harness... IC pipes, oil cooler.. The bay is just about empty.

1. Seam welding the bay - re-painting it (staying white)
2. New fuelab regulator (Purple)
3. New TiAL MVS (Purple)
4. New IC pipes - going purple
5. Fuel rail, anodize purple
6. intake mani, purple
7. Valve cover and other misc large items going in for powder, wrinkle black
8. Electric water pump going in to help the rear mount system at idle
9. battery posts going in to make it easier to charge/jump the car - the XS power battery is side mounted and tucked away.
10. New TEIN Suspension - we're going to start with 9k/7k setup and see how it responds between track and street use.
11. New innovate gauges
12. New Whiteline end links
13. New Keyless RFID push button start (leave the key in your pocket)
14. RX7 T2 trans setup.. Finally.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423801517

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423801517

More info about this: 13.New Keyless RFID push button start (leave the key in your pocket)?

Son of a bitch! Game over.

When will this kit be for sale?

I don't think it is going to be a kit that's for sale from the sounds of it. There's a lot of custom work that goes into the swap. A lot of modifying of the actual bellhousing. If you look in my thread you can see just what I'm talking about. Other than the adaptor plate and mounts to the chassis I'm not sure what else you could get that would make it a "kit".

Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu uuuuuu.

SO EXCITE.

I just want an FD trans mount kit.

FD or FC?

I said... i just want an FD trans mount kit. :giggle:

Trans mount? or PPF adapter.

Goddamnit.

Goddamnit or God bless you?

Delete PPF. Win.

It's begun. *edit, it's begun again. Stripped a bunch of the seam sealer out and started to tack it up. Turns out I'm not going to be able to tig most of these seams very easily so I'll have to dust off the old Mig welder...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423889826

That looks all too familiar! I better beat you to finish since I'm not going to beat you once we're both running

One of these days I'll have to blitz through this entire thread. Not nearly as long as Jeff's, but an awesome car none the least.

Pulled the turbo out for removal of the compressor side, it's going out to be coated to match the FPR and EWG.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424318235

Engine is removed, bay is stripped and etching primer has been applied anywhere necessary.

I've decided to do a brake booster delete setup (after speaking with my Wilwood rep I'll likely not take this master route) but and completely tuck the brake lines:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424318235

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424318235

Small update while I wait for Epoxy Primer to set up. Pulled the engine, pulled the dash, pulled the wiring and blasted everything out from the cracks. Went through and ground down areas of chipping paint, in most places this resulted in bare metal.

Bare metal should always be hit with some etching primer, usually it's this ugly green color:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424926124

The Epoxy primer went on - I decided to use this specific primer for a solid chemical adhesion because of the harsh nature of an engine bay. Most of the bay was prepped with 220 grit sandpaper and this primer should do a great job filling that with a coat thickness of 1.3-1.6mm.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1424926124

Cleaned the gun out and I'll give this an hour to set up and hit it with a light scuff - being a 2 part primer it should set up nicely by then but it's been years since I've painted anything.

Looking good! I can't paint to save my life.

Bare steel is fine with no etching primer, its aluminum that needs it most, SS and other self oxidizing metals can go either way. I mean its not going to hurt, and you could always just give it a wipe down with muriatic acid before painting as well if you didnt want green but wanted it etched.

I see the super duper throwout bearing in that pic. How did it hold up? I bought one but haven't installed it yet. Is that a dark picture or do I see oil inside the bellhousing?

Like a charm. OE style replacement exploded with the quickness.

I was able to get a thing or two done this weekend. Finally finished prep on the bay and shot some paint and clear coat. The basecoat showed some signs of contamination and it turned out to be some water in the compressor... Drained it and ran an inline filter and it went on like glass.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425526751
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425526751
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425526751

Now it's time to route the brake lines.. I picked up stainless hardline which is just a pretty version of your standard brake line. All of the fittings will be black 3an fittings. Should come together really nicely if I can find time.

This is bit of a jump in progress but as Fab9 continues to grow I have less and less time to work on it and update build threads, unfortunately. Now we're in a bit of a rush to finish the car before Miatas at the Gap/Tail of the Dragon. Here is a link to the blog post, if any of you will be attending we'd like to meet you: Fab9Tuning Blog

http://www.miataforumz.com/attachmen...ine=1435068200

A couple of recent changes - we decided to go with the TEIN Monosport because we kept selling out of the TEIN Flex Systems and I think we will take better advantage of the Monosport configuration. (I ended up shipping my personal set of Street Flex to a customer).

Swaybar setup changed, went with the reinforced swaybar mounts and Whiteline sealed end links (both listed on the site).

New ish fuel configuration to acomodate the fuelab 515 regulator.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1435075130

Got rid of the GM 3 Bar Map sensor and installed the AEM 5 bar to support the higher boost levels we expect to tune the EFR on. Also finished most of the engine side wiring..

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1435075130

This was just to fill a curiosity I had, I'll likely end up with Wilwood stickers back on here. Looks a bit busy for my taste.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/277/18...4e7a1a7b_z.jpg