ByteVenom's build thread
 

Some background:
I bought my car 2 years ago in May of 2015. It started off as a semi rusty, completely stock (with plastidipped rims, gas tank filer lid and mirrors) 2000 NB with 160k-ish miles on the clock.
6 months later, I was driving on the way to school, car started to make a very weird whining noise. Revved it out onto the highway, and the whining became a clanking, and the clutch pedal wouldn't go down easily.
Turned out that a flywheel bolt had fallen out of the crank, and that was causing all kind of fun.

Current Specs:
DIYPNP
Churbo (T25 T28 GT25 GT28 GT2871 GT2871R GT2860 SR20 CA18DET Turbo Turbocharger turbine eBay)
eBay intercooler kit, 2 inch hotside, 2.5 inch coldside
2.5 inch downpipe.

Pics:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...28729ca5a7.jpgFirst thing that had to be done was the front main, water pump etc
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b5e89d495f.jpgInstalled a new top, took literally the whole day.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c6538ef004.jpgThe rust
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...38b2fa1518.jpgThe rust exposed
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...71734e7026.jpgNo more rust!
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4843d2eabf.jpgThe daily
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bfe4005485.jpg
Old motor out
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3cd3636bdf.jpgEngine bay looks so empty sans turbo.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1a4d24a78b.jpgThis is a muffler from a turbo Subaru. I should get the Subbie burble because I have this right?
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...019731bd8c.jpgTurbo #1 damage


Now the car sits in my garage awaiting a new turbo after cooking the old turbo.
Basically I didn't bother hooking up the coolant lines because I had misunderstood someone when they said that "Street cars don't need coolant lines".
I also have a very weird stuttering while in boost and going into boost, I've no idea what it is. The AFRs are fine. I'll tackle that once I get my new turbo in.
My plans for the future are a ball bearing churbo, Toyota COPs, EBC and EWG.

How do I edit these pictures in the forum? Right now they're way too yuge.

I had no idea you had the rust fixed on the car! Looks real good!

Looks like I convinced you to start a build thread after you. I think Chris is going to do the soon shortly!

And bollocks, I forgot to grab the stock flywheel from you when I was there!

I should get a honda fit

that rust

shuddered in real life looking at it

That's like 99% of miatas that have ever seen winter in this neck of the woods.

Coming from a Miata, the Honda Fit is not that bad. Sure the steering isn't as direct, but it definitely is a lot of fun. The engine is pretty peppy too!
You can also fit a whole Miata drivetrain in the back with the seats folded down.
And 36MPG is refreshing from like the 8MPG my Miata got when turbod.

I never got a picture of the rockers, they also were rotted through. The shop threw them in for free because they had to take an extra month and a half.

Errr, how bad was your fueling? I got like 22 mpg and that was mixed driving and I was hitting boost all the time to let VEAL do its thing.

I'm still not confident that my injectors are seated properly or my dead time is still off.
On my way to school I was constantly flooring it and then letting off. Maybe my accel enrich is still way too high. Who knows.

Send me a message when I get to my folks place and I'll send you my tune again. You can compare the injector info etc.

You've also driven my car now, so you know what it feels like compared to yours.

I know, crazy right. I bet you thought SF/Pacific cars were rusty.

I had a cherry rust free 66 Toyota Stout pick up that came from 18's neighborhood. The oldest Toyota dealer in the state is there, cars don't rust at all around there. They rust bad in SF ,but they rot away, very quickly on the East coast.

If a Miata had that much rust around here it would be considered totalled.

​​​​​​​Mazda2 is more fun, Fit fits for shit in it. Both are great vehicles.

Wait are you claiming that not having coolant hooked up caused the turbo to fuck up and cause that blade damage?

Yes, and also when the compressor housing fell off the wheel was still spinning.

New turbo came in today! Definitely bigger than my last turbo, but we'll see if it fits when I get around to getting it onto the manifold.
The oil drain flange from my previous t25 turbo didn't fit, so I drilled out the holes, and hopefully with some RTV I can help it seal.
Coolant hookups are the same thread.

Downpipe didn't fit my strange 5 bolt T25 flange from my previous turbo, so I cut up (makes me sad :squint: ) my T25 to vband adapter and used that flange.
Lol, we'll see how my welding turns out. That being said,my biggest recommendation for those looking to build their own turbo setups, should definitely invest in the 90$ HF flux core welder just to make things happen and learn.

The turbo also comes with an owners manual with installation instructions! Super cool! The wastegate is listed as 8psi, I'm a tad concerned because from what I've seen, an 8psi wastegate could lead to some high power levels.

No.

Double no.

The Mazda2 is a decent little car but the Fit is quite a lot better IMO. Lots more space, better mileage, still fun to drive. MUCH better tech. Couldn't even get bluetooth in a Mazda2 in 2013...

Going to post pictures soon. I took the head off to do the headgasket last weekend. Cylinder #1 (front) was wet with oil and both ports were greasy. Guess that was my oil burning problem?
I redid the valve stem seals as well as cleaned up my 110k mile head a bit.
Car burned oil on first startup, but cleared up after a minute or two. It seems as though my turbo is leaking, or oil is pooling somewhere. My car burns oil for a little bit, and then its completely fine. Will leakdown test if a local shop will let me do one for the cheap.

I finally got to drive my car again, made it perfectly fine to my buddies house. The tune seemed a bit off (lol, especially b/c I'm the one tuning it), but it pulled hard when it was supposed to. The car did seem to really NOT want to rev hard at WOT though. I'd get to 4-5k, the tach would cut out, I'd let off and the car would misfire loudly. But after this, it'd be perfectly happy again. Could these misfires damage my WB sensor?

As the car heat soaked, it would start to cut out. The ignition system was cutting out. The gauges and everything was fine though. Alternator cable was loose, CAS wiring was shot. Repaired the CAS wiring just to test. It was too late in the day to do anything, but see if the car idled.
Ordered a brand new Crank and Cam sensor, let's see if those make anything better. I really hope everything's fine with my harness.(Although I do have 1/2 a complete harness from my engine swap).

Will hopefully be buying an OBX differential this weekend, no more open life. I've honestly no idea how to swap one, but intuition and the internet are things.

I also figured that I really need a lift to design my new exhaust. Chest pressing exhaust pipe while the car is only 14 inches high on jackstands is not very pleasant. More developments on that process to follow.

Swapping the diff isn't 'hard'. There's just one way it'll go on.

It's just going to be a pain in the ass. You should start spraying liquid wrench now.

Do you get notifications for every post I make? haha

I already know one of my diff/ppf bolts is completely rounded and stuck in the diff, so idk how thats gonna work out.