Those bolts are big and tough. Rounding them will require the application of substantial force. How sure are you it's rounded?

It wasn't pretty to begin with when I got the car. I guess the PO may've used the wrong sized socket or something with an impact. The first time I did my clutch, I hit it with an Oxyacetylene torch for a while, tried a pneumatic impact with a hammered on socket and no luck.
Then in my garage I tried again with a breaker bar. I pressed my back against the wall and used my legs against the bar. The bar bent like 20ish degrees, but the bolt wasn't going anywhere. The bar slipped off a couple times and in that process knackered the head a bit.

Although I will admit that the first time, I did not want to mess up the bearings in the diff by heating it up too much, so I was fairly light with the heat.

Alright, so new developments.

Got sequential injection for the DIYPNP. Best. Decision. Ever. Car doesn't get 8MPG anymore.

Decided to ditch chinachargers, and go for an SR20 GT25. I don't know why this isn't Miataturbo's go-to charger, like the Force Flow kits are for injectors.
What size (and thread) oil restrictor should I be running for it?
Got an LSD! Picked up an OBX Helical 4.1 ratio. More on that later.

Alternator turned out to be bad, so picked up another one. Let's see how that one turns out.

Oh lordy, taking out the PPF-diff bolts has been a nighmare. The outermost bolt came out perfectly. The second one in....I've been at it for hours. The head was rounded, so after destroying it some more, I welded a socket to it. Well, I didn't realize that my Home Depot socket was a 3/8, so I used my 1/2 to 3/8 adapter.....which snapped. SO I welded that to the socket too. This combination of fuckery got the bolt turning. However now I'm stuck. The bolt unthread itself fine from the pressed in nut up top. However, now it's just stuck. I can turn it freely, but it won't go down. I've tried applying downward pressure while turning, and that has limited success. I've tried heating where the bolt sits in the differential with a MAP torch. This has slightly helped the bolt move down, but not by much. I'm going to go to the Hazard Freight tomorrow for some chineseium pry bars and see if I can maybe get more leverage.

I also ordered an eBay catch can, the 40$ one. It has a baffle in the picture, so its not just an empty can. I'm going to throw some steel wool in the reservoir for added filtration however. I'm not really too sure where it goes in the PCV system however. Does it go in between the valve cover and the PCV valve? I'm guessing it doesn't really matter where it goes, as long as it goes somewhere. It's not like anything flows until the PCV valve opens up anyways.

Started building my 2.5 exhaust system. I ended up running out of time, didn't weld a flange for the muffler, and in my rush, I didn't realize that my exhaust was going to hit my driver's side axle. My lady-friend's parents invited me over for dinner, so I didn't have much wiggle room for time. I drove over to her house straight piped and my exhaust ever so slightly making fun scraping noises. I'm not really sure what kind of impression that made,...

Is it a legit t25 off an SR20? If so then it is a highly recommended t25 on here. It is the best bang for the buck t25 on the market for a stock motor.

Well, it says Garret on the side, and I bought it off zilvia.net. It has yet to arrive, but the guy had a lot of good feedback, so lets hope its legit.

Turbine housing is seized onto the CHRA. I tried some heat, but I don't want to toast any seals/bearings before I even get to drive the thing. I'm soaking it in WD40 Penetrating fluid for the next day to see if it'll help.
I'm also buying a bigger bench vise b/c my HF one rotates way too easily.

Very tempted to delete PS. Once I get the car back together (Kirk Racing Roll bar going in this weekend), I'm going to drive without the belt to get a general idea.

WD40 is trash, get some PB Blaster. T25s are always siezed like that. Put the exhaust housing into your vice and stick a jack handle into the outlet and shove on it. I noticed every single bolt on my new chinacharger was loose. That blade damage might have been caused by the thing just coming all apart from loose bolts if you didn't snug them all up.

Are you sure you can drive without the belt? I don't think that's advisable.

I've had some very good luck with the WD40 specialist fluid.
My compressor housing just spins if I do that.

I don't see why not. The pump isn't spinning, so it's not overheating.
All I'm doing is moving the fluid around by hand then.

Isn't there something else on the belt too?

Get out the torch and heat the exhaust housing up. Heat it up good and hot, hot enough you can't touch it. Might take a while. Once it's hot start banging on the side of the exhaust housing with a hammer as hard as you can.

AC is on the PS belt but that's it.

It's just an accessory belt so PS and AC.

Edit: ^ beat me to it.

Pull the lines off of the power steering rack and drain it or it will be impossible to steer with the belt off only. They fluid will severely restrict the movement and the force required will be incredible. After you take the line off grab a wheel and rotate the steering left to right using the wheel because it will move much faster than if you are turning the steering wheel. Get as much out of the rack as you can before driving it. Then if you don't like it you can always refill the power steering system. It probably needed the fluid changed anyway because it was likely original 20 year old fluid.

This won't cook any seals, or bearings?

That makes sense. Once I get my LSD in, I'll try that. Thanks!

On another note, I got a COP setup. I know LS coils are /the/ way to go, but for the price I paid for these I can't complain. They're from BP Performance Specialty, so I'm eager to see how they do.
I did ask the guy on FB about what dwell I should be running on my MS. His response was "There's no need to adjust dwell. Because smart coils"....Not sure what that means.

Worst case scenario, I just bought a 1/2 complete wiring harness for an LS coil harness.

From the picture he sent me, the harness looks well made and it comes with an aluminum bracket which also looks to be well made. I'm optimistic about it, but I probably should have asked about the coils beforehand.

They're coils from a 01-05 Corolla, so 1ZZFE. He claims he made 650 HP with 35PSI using the same model coils.

Smart coils, huh?

Do you know about turbos bro? I don't think your torch will get it hotter than your exhaust will.

A MAP torch will reach almost double the temperature of the exhaust gasses that come into the turbo. Also, I'm heating one spot versus the whole thing.

On another note, does anyone know the size of the differential housing bolts? I misplaced two, I'm thinking that they're just the standard M8X1.25 as most of 12mm bolts are on Miatas.

Deleted PS by draining the fluid and removing the belt - I love it. The road feel is absolutely fantastic, I just notice that off center the wheel is easy to turn, but anything beyond 15* of steering wheel movement requires a bit more effort. Why is there an inconsistency?

Installed Yellow bilsteins in the rear with Tein S.Techs, and a Hard Dog Hardcore M1. I'm not sure if its the lack of PS, the bar, or the suspension, but the car feels much tighter.
SR20 turbo spools almost instantly, no issues there.
Considering selling my DIYPNP. I might go to Greece this summer, so it might be possible to pick up an MSLabs MS3.
I hear a knocking noise from the rear end however when turning. I'm thinking it would be an axle that wasn't pushed all the way in when doing the LSD swap. Does this make sense?

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