CDM tries not to suck at life.
05-17-2011, 09:39 PM
#21
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Yeah, I took the block to the machine shop to get re surfaced, and had them check the bores, and I sure as hell am going to have to bore it, so I am getting 84mm 9:1 supertechs. Now all I need is a decent rebuild kit and I am ready to rock. Anyone know where to get one, or if the ACL race bearings are worth it? Also, when reassembling, I will be using a rod bolt stretch gauge. However, when I do the plastigauge, I won't want to stretch the bolts to the fullest extent right? The last engine I did, we just torques the bolts with plastigauge on, then checked clearance, then reassembled and retorqued. So, With the rod bolt stretch gauge, we stretch the bolt to where it needs to go, does it return a little bit? Or is it like a torque to yield bolt, and can only be used once?
So, In short, answer my rod question, and engine rebuild kit question. kthanxbai.
So, In short, answer my rod question, and engine rebuild kit question. kthanxbai.
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06-10-2011, 12:30 AM
#23
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Ok coolness, the engine is back from the machine shop. I has ACL race bearings and arp main studs for more bottom end win. I have more questions.
Main journal oil clearance is between .003 and .004 on the plastigauge. Is this cause for concern? It definately isn't quite to .004, which is the max, but it isn't within the standard specs of .0007 - .0014 either. Thrust measurement is sweetness. I will load pics tomorrow, but work awaits. I must have went through 50 pipe cleaners cleaning out all the oil passages.
Oh, Will my fancy shmancy 67 psi boundary engineering oil pump work fine with my VVT head since it isnt the VVT oil pump?
Main journal oil clearance is between .003 and .004 on the plastigauge. Is this cause for concern? It definately isn't quite to .004, which is the max, but it isn't within the standard specs of .0007 - .0014 either. Thrust measurement is sweetness. I will load pics tomorrow, but work awaits. I must have went through 50 pipe cleaners cleaning out all the oil passages.
Oh, Will my fancy shmancy 67 psi boundary engineering oil pump work fine with my VVT head since it isnt the VVT oil pump?
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07-31-2011, 04:37 PM
#25
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Since no one ever comments on my build thread I thought I would post what happens to valves if you let them sit in humidity in a miata chop shop for 3 years (just kidding about the chop shop Stan).
Check it, old vs new.
Valves that sat for 2 years.
Valve with 150k that was lapped, and I halfway cleaned the carbon off of it.
Those bottom ones are golden right? I have yet to run it by my machine shop for approval, but I think it looks good compared to what came out. They measured the same. Identical. I still have yet to determine whether the intake valves are the same. Once I get money, I will do oversized valves and SUB lifters, until then, everyone tell me that my car will blow up. Unless someone with hands on, engineering experience can tell me the lower ones won't work, and give me a good damn reason, then I will keep them.
Check it, old vs new.
Valves that sat for 2 years.
Valve with 150k that was lapped, and I halfway cleaned the carbon off of it.
Those bottom ones are golden right? I have yet to run it by my machine shop for approval, but I think it looks good compared to what came out. They measured the same. Identical. I still have yet to determine whether the intake valves are the same. Once I get money, I will do oversized valves and SUB lifters, until then, everyone tell me that my car will blow up. Unless someone with hands on, engineering experience can tell me the lower ones won't work, and give me a good damn reason, then I will keep them.
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09-08-2011, 11:49 PM
#26
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Update, update, update.
Engine Carnage.
Bent Cyl 1 rod also.
Where cyl 4 broke. The bottom was still perfectly attatched, no main bearing damage or anything. If someone needs the crank, it is for free. It looks un scathed, other than the fact it needs a polish, maybe cut one under.
I still need one of the mother f'ers. Odd how I never ended up with one. My brother lost mine and I bought my engine without the oil pan. Ghey. It is all I need to complete my shortblock assembly. I have it wrapped up to avoid contamination right meow. On a side note, the belfab rods had a taper on the big end, and I had to bore out the small end bushing. It jacked up my ACL rod bearings, So I had to buy new ones. I called belfab and they pretty much told me to go **** myself, all I wanted was new bearings and I paid for machine work. I heard other stories about them from a trusted member of this site. Seriously, really avoid them. Shady as hell and wont stand behind their crap, so fok belfab. Anyways... on to the next.
Had my head resurfaced then I brought it home and lapped the valves and re assembled. I have done valve lapping before, and it worked, so that saved me about 100 bucks.
One thing that is pissing me off:
That little nipple thingy is blocking my kia waterneck. Do you remove that or something? There are 500000000 reroute threads, and it makes me want to kill myself. I am going spacerless. Or did I get the wrong one. I ordered it for a 2000 Kia Sephia. Actually, here is the number.
Obligatory no engine shot. Half of the engine bay is clean, and half isn't. My secret. Ajax grapefruit scented dish soap. Smells great and cleans the hell out of engine bays. Way cheaper than engine cleaner, and no crappy residue.
Edit: Also shitty, I thought I was running 15psi all the time, and I was really running about 17-18, we tested the boost gauge on my buddies evo and when he was at 20 psi, my boost gauge hovered around 17, therefore Shitty boost gauge is fail, and I should have believed my datalogs, but I thought my map sensor was acting screwy, I guess I was wrong. I did make 230 whp with the megasquirt showing 13, so who knows what power I was making.
Engine Carnage.
Bent Cyl 1 rod also.
Where cyl 4 broke. The bottom was still perfectly attatched, no main bearing damage or anything. If someone needs the crank, it is for free. It looks un scathed, other than the fact it needs a polish, maybe cut one under.
I still need one of the mother f'ers. Odd how I never ended up with one. My brother lost mine and I bought my engine without the oil pan. Ghey. It is all I need to complete my shortblock assembly. I have it wrapped up to avoid contamination right meow. On a side note, the belfab rods had a taper on the big end, and I had to bore out the small end bushing. It jacked up my ACL rod bearings, So I had to buy new ones. I called belfab and they pretty much told me to go **** myself, all I wanted was new bearings and I paid for machine work. I heard other stories about them from a trusted member of this site. Seriously, really avoid them. Shady as hell and wont stand behind their crap, so fok belfab. Anyways... on to the next.
Had my head resurfaced then I brought it home and lapped the valves and re assembled. I have done valve lapping before, and it worked, so that saved me about 100 bucks.
One thing that is pissing me off:
That little nipple thingy is blocking my kia waterneck. Do you remove that or something? There are 500000000 reroute threads, and it makes me want to kill myself. I am going spacerless. Or did I get the wrong one. I ordered it for a 2000 Kia Sephia. Actually, here is the number.
Obligatory no engine shot. Half of the engine bay is clean, and half isn't. My secret. Ajax grapefruit scented dish soap. Smells great and cleans the hell out of engine bays. Way cheaper than engine cleaner, and no crappy residue.
Edit: Also shitty, I thought I was running 15psi all the time, and I was really running about 17-18, we tested the boost gauge on my buddies evo and when he was at 20 psi, my boost gauge hovered around 17, therefore Shitty boost gauge is fail, and I should have believed my datalogs, but I thought my map sensor was acting screwy, I guess I was wrong. I did make 230 whp with the megasquirt showing 13, so who knows what power I was making.
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09-09-2011, 12:19 AM
#27
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When I did the spacerless thing I had to use the stock waterneck... The kia one requires the spacer. Also, if you have any honda parts laying around, b series water necks fit if you bore the bolt holes out, I don't remember the orientation exactly... but it makes for another option.
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