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Installed the RB 14108 front ARB
Mocked up the Stoptech front brakes and ordered some spacers to clear the wheels. The brakes look big for the car but are smaller than all GT rears.
Started working on the rad ducting. Going to finish it up in the morning then start on the inlet duct with the splitter. Also ran out of argon so it’s a good stoping point.
Oh man, I really wonder what it's capable of without that restrictor!
My guess is about 425whp based on the torque numbers it produced with the restrictor.
Originally Posted by miataman04
Awesome build! Looking at the engine bay reminds me of how much I hate NC engine bays there is so little room.
The engine is actually very serviceable, nothing is very hard. The worse thing so far is removing the intake cam. I did not clearance the firewall enough without some more steps than normal. Oh well, things you get when you complicate it...
Well finally got around to test fitting the gearbox. Came across a deal I could not pass up.
brand new 15G sequential. Everything seems to be really close. I need to get a hydraulic release bearing and make a modification to the bell housing. The drive shaft needs to be made but all in all smooth so far.
Fixed the intake pipe and cold side charge pipe. (not pictured)
Modified the bell housing to make the gearbox sit straight in the car.
Made the carbon exit duct and added the track spec hood vents
Had a custom driveshaft made for the gearbox
Re vamped the power steering (not pictured)
Got a couple parts to get water jetted.
Figured out the rear suspension and ordered some parts for that.
Next up is the ABS install, body work, some numbers, a lot of testing, and a big trophy.
Work has been taking a lot away from the project. I have been put on the back burner with some manufacturing of parts. I still need my clutch release bearing adapter, hope to get that this week or early next...
I calibrated the gear pot and the load cell for the sequential. We will have flat foot upshifting and blipped downshifts with the drive-by-wire.
I have finished the Teves Mk60 wiring harness. Need to do the wheel speed sensors and the brake lines to finish it up. I had to do some goofy things to make the wheel speed sensors work.
Got the rear SPL bump steer adjustable toe links and the lower link. I then added bearings to the other 3 links. Rear suspension is all rod ends at the subframe. Waiting on some bearing inserts for the front upper and lower control arms.
I added the transmission brace to the stock forward crossmember and made some ghetto differential braces for the RX8 differential housing. Doing this I had to redo the exhaust. Only thing not pictured is the saddle for the exhaust.
Got bigger flares for the Hoosier 275 A7s. May try 295s if the grip is needed. The rear flares are a little bigger than I would like. (makes me want more tire..) The car is extremely light. About 2200lbs currently. Going to have to add a ton of weight to the car. I have a few places in mind to get the car closer to 50% front.
Still have a few days left of work. Depending on this clutch situation will determine when it hits the track....
Clutch release bearing adapter got machined today. Installed and bled the clutch tonight. Going to work on the alignment tomorrow and planning on a shake down Friday.
will having the hoses like that make it hard to bleed the clutch?
The top line is actually the bleed line so it pushes the air out. No issues for bleeding, had a clutch within the first few pumps.
Originally Posted by Blkbrd69
Awesome job and great write up.
Love the wet layup carbon duct.
I was thinking the same thing? You would think a couple of 60*-90* fittings would be a cleaner install?
The space is a little tighter than it looks. Tried some other fittings, I didn’t like that it wasn’t a straight shot out of the holes for chafing the lines. The crimps for these lines were longer than I wanted.
Originally Posted by Leafy
And its just more hose in the hot bell housing for heat to transfer into the fluid. I'm sure it doesnt matter, but it bothers me.
Yea, not worried about that with good fluid. When you have a hydraulic release bearing sitting on the clutch and in the bell housing, the fluid will be warm regardless. If the fluid boils you just have a lazy clutch pedal. I won’t be using the pedal besides leaving the pits and getting back into neutral.
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