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Well I wasn't planning on fapping tonight...
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ITT: car porn. Seriously awesome build and great pictures to spice things up. Subbed.
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Originally Posted by rkim
(Post 1011119)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368416296 ^"M2-1002 Uncompromising standards and craftsmanship are our development theme" "Uncompromising standards and craftsman- ship are our development theme" |
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:P What I meant was:
M2 1002 - 043 Uncompromising standards and craftsman- ship are our development theme Ok so a quick paint pic update, followed by my Mocal order as reference for anyone wanting plumbing details. Went with cummins beige for the block (can cap colour wasn't reliable but thankfully it didn't turn out too pale), cast iron for pumps, and still have to finish off head in cast iron too and send out VC (after bung welding / coil mounting fab) for hydrographics: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368586065 So for the lower water neck, what I'm going to move ahead with is as follows: - Use stock HC return pipe but grind off o-ring seat beads, lathe up right sized register on backside of -10AN bung and weld it on for a push on hose connector - Completely grind off lower water neck port for stock pipe mating section and block it off with some flat bar - Grind off stock oil cooler water port, fab up 1" tube to mate to neck bend by flange and machine tube ID to mate with -10AN weld on bung register. Install another push on hose connector and run a slight 'S' in the hose to mate up to stock HC return pipe EWG cooling: -> -4 feed from block -> -4 return back into side of water neck (convenient flat available to tap) In the end, water neck will look something like this: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368586065 |
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Mocal order came in today. Awesome quality. Looking forward to the bling.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368587445 And for those interested in a similar setup, I've attached my order summary, which outlines every piece in sequence for each line, as well as an order sum total at the bottom of the txt. Now time to start filing some rings and start short block assy! Will try to finish up machining by early next week and report back soon. |
Built motor. Baller manifold. Shitty turbo? Come on, man.
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You can run a shitty churbo on the track.
You can't run a shitty motor or manifold on the track. |
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^What Steve said. Hope to upgrade turbo down the road when/if I feel like it. For now, churbo shall do. Seen enough evidence here to convince me it'll be reliable enough in the short term.
Quick update: Ran into some hurdles over the weekend. Went into paranoid mode again and decided to wait and find/rent a bolt stretch gauge for the rods. Hope to assemble short block by this weekend (time running out). Worst case I'll rig up some end pieces and mic it. Oh and I'm waiting to get some more ARP lube. On the plus side... - Rings have been gapped. Went 0.020 top, 0.025 bottom (wanted 24 but 2 were already at 25) - Oil pan bung machined (milled in a 30 deg angle) - Oil pan temp sensor bung plate machined - Coolant spacer machined (just need to get tstat, oring, and barbs...more on this later) - Block was on hold so decided to do some footwork and get coils in and attach lip. Fuuuu the RR driver side shock bolt appears to have stripped and stuck in the arm now (basically happened as I cracked it loose). It was pretty rusty to begin with. Sucks since it was the last corner to be done. Also, WTFBBQ someone clearly rounded the driver side top hat nuts for the shock. Luckily bolt extractor came through. So yeah, waiting on another RR LH LCA... For now, this is how she sits. May need to lower a bit more and for sure pull fenders a bit. Buddy can hook me up with a roller so will plan for that near end of June-ish: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369193799 |
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So this is becoming the slowest build everrrr...
But fear not, I have been working as much as I can, which means unfortunately I had to sacrifice updates. I have to go back to Japan for a bit but this time it's short and I get a week off afterwards so time to kick things into high gear! Here's my next steps when I get back mid July: - Tidy up long block, set timing - Fab up LS coil assy bracket and order wiring - Order seals/gasket for tranny - Drive to Buffalo and pick up exhaust from Abe - Hoist is acquired, fab up ghetto leveler or buy one at HF down in buffalo - Pull motor, weld up steering for PS delete - Throw in motor, mock up intercooler piping, swap everything else in Here's an update of where I'm at right now basically. Almost there. I'll post a more detailed update when I get back in a couple of weeks: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372909603 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372909603 Recently just got back from my Euro trip vacation. Will post some more later when I get more time: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372909603 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372909603 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372909603 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372909603 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372909603 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372909603 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372909603 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372909603 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1372909603 |
Great build going man. I wish I took as good pictures when building mine. Loving the museum pics! Props, keep them coming!
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Nice build and pics!
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Ok back again and this time I'm hoping someone can help confirm a few things for me. I referenced a lot of other threads and I believe everything looks to be ok but it'd be great to get some confirmation (because I'm a noob and paranoid like that).
1) Spark plug gap - All measured @ 0.035". For LS coils and ~1 bar, I'm thinking this should be no problem? 2) Engine mount nut - I'm used to keeping everything slack when dropping in the motor - For the mount nut that hides behind the mount brackets that bolt to the engine, do you guys typically torque that down and have no issues with the body side studs dropping into place? - Would you recommend leaving the bolts that hold bracket to block slightly loose and torque them down once I drop the motor in and get the other mount nut on from body side? 3) Timing (here we go again) - Would like to know if anyone sees anything weird? - Initial setting below: - After rotating crank at least 2 times:https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373846824 - Crank at TDC (also confirmed through spark plug #1 hole) -> check https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373846824 - 19 teeth -> check - Cam gear marks centered (circled areas) -> check (exhaust side may look off but it's just perspective) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373846824 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373846824 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373846824 |
this thread got 200% more awesome since I last opened it.
couple notes: -did I miss the part about why you're using a churbo when the rest of the setup is ultra baller? -those trip pics are awesome -that M2 miata is awesome -shoulda tried the GST bro. you ALWAYS try that kinda stuff |
Churbo is capable of 300+whp. Get over it everybody.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1031766)
Churbo is capable of 350+whp. Get over it everybody.
I put down 3xx with one and just tuned Ryans car to 358 with one, doesn't mean it makes any sense whatsoever to run one with about 10k worth of baller parts making up the rest of the system if the rest of the setup is cheap-o then I "get it", but OP's setup looks expensive |
Build is expensive no doubt but I did have some target for budget (which is now obviously over haha) so the plan was to cheap out on the turbo for now, play with ~240ish whp, and start saving up for something more legit down the road. I also didn't bother investing in piping/intercooler since the CXR stuff should be good enough too.
If this was maybe 3-5 years ago, I wouldn't bother considering going the churbo route but I've read enough about other people having some decent reliability out of these that I feel the built motor will be protected as long as I keep a close eye on the cold side of things. |
^^Actually, I forgot to add. Originally I was looking for a legit 2560 but found out from Sav that the T3 .48 housings no longer exist.
So yes, I did plan on investing but couldn't find what I wanted so I went with plan B. I was restricted to T3 because of the mani I picked up and I wanted something similar to the 2560 so I got something similar to what Brain is running. |
I see.
makes sense oh and the T3 footprint is a blessing, not a curse. ;) |
Well I think you can get journal bearing T28s from the RB25 I think that are a T3 flange?
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