When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Unfortunatly, I think you're right about rings. If it makes you feel any better, I did a rods only build for under $500. I can post the parts list if you get to that...
I rolled the dice on the head gasket.. it was called evergreen, seemed like a Chinese forgery
Was it on a green board? Shipped from eBay for less then $30? If so then I don't think it is necessarily a HG issue. At least I have used 3-4 of that brand with zero issues in the past.
Unfortunatly, I think you're right about rings. If it makes you feel any better, I did a rods only build for under $500. I can post the parts list if you get to that...
Eh.. i hope i can work something out with the shop that did the work if it is rings.
Originally Posted by aidandj
Pretty sure this is his built motor.
Yes indeed it is..
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
oh, lol. then just re-ring and go on with life....
That is my plan lol
Originally Posted by shuiend
Was it on a green board? Shipped from eBay for less then $30? If so then I don't think it is necessarily a HG issue. At least I have used 3-4 of that brand with zero issues in the past.
How did you break in the motor?
https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/breakin.php
couple of heavy throttle runs in third or fourth gear from about 2500-5500 rpm. Each time you hit 5500-6000 rpm, snap your foot off the gas and let the car coast down to 2500 rpm while in gear, to pull high vacuum in the cylinders.
This is what i did and changed the oil and started boosting, ever since i have been leaking from the tube
I also called up the machine shop and informed them the crankcase was being pressurized, seems like hes going to have the person who built it contact me.
I usually follow something close to FM break in instructions. Usually in 2 or 3rd gear, ill rev to 3.5k then engine break down to 1000rpms. Then repeat by going up 1000 each time. It has worked well overall.
So yeah at this point I'm not sure. If you do re-ring it, I would say get it back on the road NA and break in the motor like that and drive for a while, then add back on the turbo. If you need caps for the oil feed or drain plug let me know and I can send some up.
Walll, there's your problem right there. Bummer man. Been there.Piston 2 looks like a paperweight. Probably worth thinking about det sensor of some kind when you do the rebuild.
Walll, there's your problem right there. Bummer man. Been there.Piston 2 looks like a paperweight. Probably worth thinking about det sensor of some kind when you do the rebuild.
Yeah.. i noticed that immediately.... det sensor is def a good idea,
Originally Posted by aidandj
Who did your tuning...
EFI express in Lee NH - I didnt re-tune after the bottom end build - but i was already turbo
Can you get decent pictures of each cylinder and piston?
Sure, i'll post up some pics soon as i can with everything - Most likely towards the end of the week - I have a lot of cleaning to do in my work space area to continue this crazy build through the winter.
Engine / tranny has been pulled over the last 3 days ( I'm getting better / faster at this haha)
No scoring on the cylinder walls at all. Rings were seized in both cylinder 1 and 2 pistons most likely from too much heat from what my builder told me.. det seemed to come up alot during the convo.
Plan is to get injectors flow tested in a nearby place and proceed with block rebuild - I will also be finding a new tuner - i will hear more next week on the news of the total damage..
11-02-2016, 12:06 PM
0
