Lassi`s list of compromises (semi build thread)
10-29-2010, 06:02 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bergen, Norway
Posts: 128
Total Cats: 12
Lassi`s list of compromises (semi build thread)
Found it to be a good idea to start documenting the progress of my ride. Feel free to chime in when I get my hopes up too high... And offcourse when I`m just beeing stupid.
The car will be used for 99% street driving and while I want to increase it`s potential I still want to keep it relatively quiet, not to harsh on ride quality and all mods need to be stealth for semi annual inspection. I unfortunately do not have any proper racetracks in my vincinity at this time (except for a gokart track...) and the car should still be safe enough for atleast weekend roadtrips.
As of now:
05`Mazdaspeed mx-5
FM 2.5" stainless downpipe and exhaust.
Begi intake and intercooler.
Rest of car is stock and I am at the moment most annoyed with the stock ECU. I can not comprehend how Mazda made such a poor piece of equipment. Especially since I`ve previously owned a 90`GTX which might been running a bit rich with slightly oversized injectors, but still performed almost flawlessly on it`s original ECM and lots of mods. That car is also the reason I might have expected to much from a lightly modded MSM and now finding I need more power to be happy...
Future plan is: With an overall goal of safe 300whp;
Custom BNR IHI\EVOX hybrid turbo - (can use my existing exhaust + stealth)
Injectors - probably DW - Contemplating sizing for alcohol
ECU - Adaptronic? (will not use Hydra or MS...)
Suspension - Already have a set of FCM`s sitting in the garage (400/350)
Wheels\tires - Want 225 and 8" wide wheel, rest is undecided
Most recent picture:
The car will be used for 99% street driving and while I want to increase it`s potential I still want to keep it relatively quiet, not to harsh on ride quality and all mods need to be stealth for semi annual inspection. I unfortunately do not have any proper racetracks in my vincinity at this time (except for a gokart track...) and the car should still be safe enough for atleast weekend roadtrips.
As of now:
05`Mazdaspeed mx-5
FM 2.5" stainless downpipe and exhaust.
Begi intake and intercooler.
Rest of car is stock and I am at the moment most annoyed with the stock ECU. I can not comprehend how Mazda made such a poor piece of equipment. Especially since I`ve previously owned a 90`GTX which might been running a bit rich with slightly oversized injectors, but still performed almost flawlessly on it`s original ECM and lots of mods. That car is also the reason I might have expected to much from a lightly modded MSM and now finding I need more power to be happy...
Future plan is: With an overall goal of safe 300whp;
Custom BNR IHI\EVOX hybrid turbo - (can use my existing exhaust + stealth)
Injectors - probably DW - Contemplating sizing for alcohol
ECU - Adaptronic? (will not use Hydra or MS...)
Suspension - Already have a set of FCM`s sitting in the garage (400/350)
Wheels\tires - Want 225 and 8" wide wheel, rest is undecided
Most recent picture:
Reply
0
0
07-08-2011, 08:07 AM
#2
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bergen, Norway
Posts: 128
Total Cats: 12
Not much happening here lately...
Car is back on it`s wheels after having a 3.63 gearset installed. Have a ever so slight whining noise on heavy accel but not intirely convinced it`s the gearset that is misaligned or if it`s the new ES diff bushings that is just transmitting the noise better now. Seems to change tone a bit depending on which gear I`m in and disappears over 80mph. I`ve decided to run it a couple of fills and drain the oil and check for metal... (I know I SHOULD tear it down again and recheck backlash, but have to much other stuff going on so I`m risking it... We call it breakdown maintenance in my field of work and we very much frown upon it
)
Other than that the car is back to (almost) stock for inspection reasons and as soon as I`m finished painting the house I`ll be installing the FCM`s, now with Hyperco springs and helpers, and the adaptronic and getting it tuned.
Car starts every morning and have so far been a joy to own. (Wonder how long that lasts...)
Pictures of beautiful norwegian city;
Car is back on it`s wheels after having a 3.63 gearset installed. Have a ever so slight whining noise on heavy accel but not intirely convinced it`s the gearset that is misaligned or if it`s the new ES diff bushings that is just transmitting the noise better now. Seems to change tone a bit depending on which gear I`m in and disappears over 80mph. I`ve decided to run it a couple of fills and drain the oil and check for metal... (I know I SHOULD tear it down again and recheck backlash, but have to much other stuff going on so I`m risking it... We call it breakdown maintenance in my field of work and we very much frown upon it
)Other than that the car is back to (almost) stock for inspection reasons and as soon as I`m finished painting the house I`ll be installing the FCM`s, now with Hyperco springs and helpers, and the adaptronic and getting it tuned.
Car starts every morning and have so far been a joy to own. (Wonder how long that lasts...)
Pictures of beautiful norwegian city;
Last edited by lassi; 07-08-2011 at 08:40 AM. Reason: Added pictures of norwegian cøntry
Reply
0
0
07-08-2011, 12:33 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bergen, Norway
Posts: 128
Total Cats: 12
Car is resting in the garage between October and May and needed to wait until now to get it inspected. "Lowering springs" without TÜV approval is frowned upon over here... Anyway, now I have 2 years until next inspection so I might just have to swap this weekend...
(It`s supposed to rain anyway so no house painting...)
(It`s supposed to rain anyway so no house painting...)
Reply
0
0
10-09-2011, 04:52 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bergen, Norway
Posts: 128
Total Cats: 12
Adaptronic issues (Lars takes a computer to the garage)
Since the season is over and I don`t plan on using it more this side of new year I found it to be an ideal time to start fiddling with the Adaptronic select ecu I got earlier this year. And I kind of thought it would be easy... I`ll admit right away that I have not read the manual properly yet (but I`m printing it out at work tomorrow.... ;D )
Installed a set of 600cc DW`s along with a Select ECU. I upgraded to firmware V10 and turned the key... And it started right up!!!
But, ALAS my troubles begin;
Being that this is a "plug and play" ecu with a preloaded basemap I assumed it would idle and run pretty well out of the box. (Kind of why I bought since I have no experience with tuning)
Unfortunately this is not the case. It sputters and vibrates and sounds almost like it`s running on 3 cylinders. I hunts up and down and stalls if I try to open the throttle. Does not want to rev at all. It kind of settles down when it warms up, but then might rev to 2500rpms. Atleast the vibration and sputtering goes away at that rpm.
Anyways, I`ll probably figure it out in the end, but have some questions that need answering;
-When I installed the DW injectors the insulators that came with the 600cc injectors was very loose and not the same type as the oem`s. They did however fit perfectly down the injector hole so I think I installed them correctly. Or should I have swapped over the oem insulators?
-Vacuum at idle is about 10-15 in\hg when the sputtering and vibration persists. When it warms up the vacuum settles at 20 in\hg and the racing revs starts. I`ve tried searching for a leak somewhere but with the racing revs it really hard to tell using brake cleaner. I also tried soapy water and found nothing. This leads me to believe that it`s the idle valve that opens to much and causes the low vacuum. Could it also be the injectors insulators?
Vacuum at idle should be about 20in\hg right?
-In the "tuning modes" tab under "engine capacity and injector size" injectors was sat at 240cc\min. When I adjusted this to 600cc it did not start up again. (I stopped trying right after this to do some more research)
-Under the "target afr" tab I get a lot of red letters telling me that the target afr are to rich to sensed at 50% load. (12.5 setting) I have innovate WB, but I also see under the "analog corrections" tab that "oxygen sensor" is set to oem narrowband with a measurement range of 14 - 15.5. The drop down menu does not have innovate WB. I do however have the innovate WB selected under "serial in" in the special functions tab. Is this how it`s supposed to be? How do I know which one it reads when running?
-Under the "idle" tab my PID settings are way different than how Travis descibes them to be in his "Miata setting idle manual" Mine are P-40 I-5 D-30 which seems very high compared to what I read. Tried adjusting the "overall control" max\min values and it settles down a bit when I adjust the max value, but dies easily.
To be continued after work tomorrow...
Installed a set of 600cc DW`s along with a Select ECU. I upgraded to firmware V10 and turned the key... And it started right up!!!
But, ALAS my troubles begin;
Being that this is a "plug and play" ecu with a preloaded basemap I assumed it would idle and run pretty well out of the box. (Kind of why I bought since I have no experience with tuning)
Unfortunately this is not the case. It sputters and vibrates and sounds almost like it`s running on 3 cylinders. I hunts up and down and stalls if I try to open the throttle. Does not want to rev at all. It kind of settles down when it warms up, but then might rev to 2500rpms. Atleast the vibration and sputtering goes away at that rpm.
Anyways, I`ll probably figure it out in the end, but have some questions that need answering;
-When I installed the DW injectors the insulators that came with the 600cc injectors was very loose and not the same type as the oem`s. They did however fit perfectly down the injector hole so I think I installed them correctly. Or should I have swapped over the oem insulators?
-Vacuum at idle is about 10-15 in\hg when the sputtering and vibration persists. When it warms up the vacuum settles at 20 in\hg and the racing revs starts. I`ve tried searching for a leak somewhere but with the racing revs it really hard to tell using brake cleaner. I also tried soapy water and found nothing. This leads me to believe that it`s the idle valve that opens to much and causes the low vacuum. Could it also be the injectors insulators?
Vacuum at idle should be about 20in\hg right?
-In the "tuning modes" tab under "engine capacity and injector size" injectors was sat at 240cc\min. When I adjusted this to 600cc it did not start up again. (I stopped trying right after this to do some more research)
-Under the "target afr" tab I get a lot of red letters telling me that the target afr are to rich to sensed at 50% load. (12.5 setting) I have innovate WB, but I also see under the "analog corrections" tab that "oxygen sensor" is set to oem narrowband with a measurement range of 14 - 15.5. The drop down menu does not have innovate WB. I do however have the innovate WB selected under "serial in" in the special functions tab. Is this how it`s supposed to be? How do I know which one it reads when running?
-Under the "idle" tab my PID settings are way different than how Travis descibes them to be in his "Miata setting idle manual" Mine are P-40 I-5 D-30 which seems very high compared to what I read. Tried adjusting the "overall control" max\min values and it settles down a bit when I adjust the max value, but dies easily.
To be continued after work tomorrow...
Reply
0
0
05-15-2012, 02:59 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bergen, Norway
Posts: 128
Total Cats: 12
What a fracking crappy build thread this is... 
Well, I`ve got the adaptronic running pretty good, learning as I go. Tempted to set the boost to 15psi and go, but keeping it on a safer 9 at the moment so the car is basically slower than with the oem ecu atm.
The Xida`s are pretty awesome after sorting them properly with my own designed spring centering setup along with FM`s shock spacers and extra bushing in the rear. My piggly MSM now has good ride height range, working helper spring and springs that do not wander in the topmount. Need to put some more km`s on them before I`m confident of that I`ve adjusted them correctly for my driving. Next autoX should tell how the balance is with stock wheels and Pirelli P-zero tires. I did want to replace them with 6ULs or similar, but just bought a CX-5 diesel so GF would kill me.
Roll bar put on hold for same reason...
Well, I`ve got the adaptronic running pretty good, learning as I go. Tempted to set the boost to 15psi and go, but keeping it on a safer 9 at the moment so the car is basically slower than with the oem ecu atm.
The Xida`s are pretty awesome after sorting them properly with my own designed spring centering setup along with FM`s shock spacers and extra bushing in the rear. My piggly MSM now has good ride height range, working helper spring and springs that do not wander in the topmount. Need to put some more km`s on them before I`m confident of that I`ve adjusted them correctly for my driving. Next autoX should tell how the balance is with stock wheels and Pirelli P-zero tires. I did want to replace them with 6ULs or similar, but just bought a CX-5 diesel so GF would kill me.
Roll bar put on hold for same reason...
Reply
0
0
05-15-2012, 03:50 PM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bergen, Norway
Posts: 128
Total Cats: 12
Inspection takes about 30-45 minutes and should consist of;
- A test drive.
- Front and rear axle brake test including parking brakes.
- Inspection of all control arm\steering bushings. No slack allowed.
- Shocks\springs and ride height. Springs\ride height should be oem.
- Body\frame integrity and rust.
- Noise and CO and NO2 emissions.
- Lights and horns working.
- General mechanical condition (Tires, leaks and basic stuff...)
No ODB though...
My car should fail on suspension and emissions\ecu, but my local shop does not have emissions testing equipment or atleast they did not test the MSM`s emissions last time around. I think that as long the car is riding high enough to get up on the ramp to the 4 post lift they have and the driving test does not scream standalone ecu and idle not smelling of gas I should be fine.
Last i had 3 cars inspected within 2 months with the MSM last so maybe they did not want risk loosing a good local costumer...
Not easy having fun with cars over here...
- A test drive.
- Front and rear axle brake test including parking brakes.
- Inspection of all control arm\steering bushings. No slack allowed.
- Shocks\springs and ride height. Springs\ride height should be oem.
- Body\frame integrity and rust.
- Noise and CO and NO2 emissions.
- Lights and horns working.
- General mechanical condition (Tires, leaks and basic stuff...)
No ODB though...
My car should fail on suspension and emissions\ecu, but my local shop does not have emissions testing equipment or atleast they did not test the MSM`s emissions last time around. I think that as long the car is riding high enough to get up on the ramp to the 4 post lift they have and the driving test does not scream standalone ecu and idle not smelling of gas I should be fine.
Last i had 3 cars inspected within 2 months with the MSM last so maybe they did not want risk loosing a good local costumer...
Not easy having fun with cars over here...
Reply
0
0
08-07-2012, 05:23 PM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bergen, Norway
Posts: 128
Total Cats: 12
Car is running pretty great at the moment.
I had a pain getting consistent idle behaviour with the adaptronic doing all the controlling, but now using the oem ecu for idle valve and vcts I love my car again. Except for a bit of a burble sometimes I do not think anyone could tell that it not the oem ecu running things. And even if I`really trying to provoke an idle droop by switching all electrical loads plus AC at the same time it does not stall. EVER!!
Another observation is throttle response from takeoff and transitions+gear changes are much smoother without any other change than which ecu is running the idle solenoid.
In addition to this I had a bad case of the flutterdumps, but this also went away. Wish I did this change from the start...
Got some new wheels today, 3 to be exact. Did some test fitting and hopefully FEDEX will show up with the missing 4th wheel...
TRM C1 15x8 +20 on RS3`s.
I had a pain getting consistent idle behaviour with the adaptronic doing all the controlling, but now using the oem ecu for idle valve and vcts I love my car again. Except for a bit of a burble sometimes I do not think anyone could tell that it not the oem ecu running things. And even if I`really trying to provoke an idle droop by switching all electrical loads plus AC at the same time it does not stall. EVER!!
Another observation is throttle response from takeoff and transitions+gear changes are much smoother without any other change than which ecu is running the idle solenoid.
In addition to this I had a bad case of the flutterdumps, but this also went away. Wish I did this change from the start...
Got some new wheels today, 3 to be exact. Did some test fitting and hopefully FEDEX will show up with the missing 4th wheel...
TRM C1 15x8 +20 on RS3`s.
Reply
1
1
08-12-2012, 07:54 AM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bergen, Norway
Posts: 128
Total Cats: 12
Idle now with the oem ecu running the IACV and the VTCS along with the alternator gives rock steady idle and no jerkiness or trouble idling with AC on. I am really happy with how the car drives now.
Reply
0
0
10-23-2014, 04:59 PM
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bergen, Norway
Posts: 128
Total Cats: 12
To continue the trend with biannual updates I can sum up this season in one word: Sonofab***.
Decided to install the IHI\EvoX hybrid turbo I have had since like forever which proved to be the most painfull wrenching experience I have ever had. That effing oil return pipe almost made me set my car on fire. No room, leaky gaskets, no room, didnt fit with "bolt-on" turbo, broken studs, cant reach, egr pipe threads stripped etc...
Luckily I did a generous porting job on the wastegate before I installed it. (Even though i effing paid BNR supercars to do just that when I ordered it...)
It`s in, it runs and boost is at a stable 0.5 bar with no creep and car feels just as fast as it did with the stock unit at 0.8 bar. Going to tune it at 1 bar and see if i break something.
Before and after porting (before is oem IHI)
Decided to install the IHI\EvoX hybrid turbo I have had since like forever which proved to be the most painfull wrenching experience I have ever had. That effing oil return pipe almost made me set my car on fire. No room, leaky gaskets, no room, didnt fit with "bolt-on" turbo, broken studs, cant reach, egr pipe threads stripped etc...
Luckily I did a generous porting job on the wastegate before I installed it. (Even though i effing paid BNR supercars to do just that when I ordered it...)
It`s in, it runs and boost is at a stable 0.5 bar with no creep and car feels just as fast as it did with the stock unit at 0.8 bar. Going to tune it at 1 bar and see if i break something.
Before and after porting (before is oem IHI)
Reply
0
0
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
stoves
Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain
5
04-21-2016 03:00 PM
