I should have thought to message you before I built the tank - I eyeballed most of the dimensions. I didn't mention it but I drilled a 1/16" hole in the base of the overflow tank so it would be vented to atmosphere. I believe I drilled it on the back side so it's not visible.

Thanks for the feedback! I hadn't considered the minimum size of the overflow tank. I checked CAD and the overflow has a volume of 0.66 quarts so it's marginal at best. That being said the header tank is a little over a quart, so maybe that'll help? I'll keep an eye on it for sure - worst case I can add some additional volume to the bottom or something. Or just re-make the whole thing and fix some stupid decisions I made the first time.

I'm curious where the 7% number comes from, I did a quick google search and the coefficient of volume expansion for water is like 210e-6. Even at a dT of 100°C that's only a 2.1% change in volume. Does the 7% account for dissolved air?

 

Makes sense that you drilled a hole. Nice and simple!

0.66 quarts is bigger than I would have guessed based off the photos, so it's probably something you can just keep a close watch on. The header tank is intended to be filled to the very top in your case, right? If so, then I'd just have to consider it as part of your pressurized system volume that will expand like the rest of it.

the CTE of water is a fun/tricky one... Unlike many other elements, water's coefficient changes with temperature. It ranges from -0.7e-4 @ 32F (freezing) all the way to 7e-4 @ 212F (boiling) at atmospheric pressure. When you mix ethylene glycol in with it at a 50% ratio, you can generally take that pure water CTE and add 20% to it (this is just based on my experiences working with coolant suppliers and is generally not that easy to find online). All this to say, your value of 210e-6 isn't wrong, but thats the value for pure water at 20C fluid temperature (which is the cold temp you can assume for automotive situations like this). As you pressurize a system the CTE value keeps climbing... so lets say you wanted to size something for a dT of 100C (20C cold to 120C hot), the pure water CTE goes from 2.1e-4 to about 8.6e-4 across that temp range. That change in CTE is about 6.5e-4 (or 6.5% over 100C dT). Add in your 20% adjustment factor for ethylene glycol mix and you are at 7.8%. There's some level of variation in these numbers (like the glycol adjustment factor to assume), so I just generally call an even 7% a nice assumption to make for easy numbers during initial sizing..

Here you can find what I'd consider a good group of charts with CTE values.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/w...ght-d_595.html

I'll venture into the rabbit hole here for a second because why not.... Technically, your whole system is also growing while the coolant expands, which adds a whole additional layer of head-to-desk banging complexity to this if you really want to nail down a SUPER exact overflow sizing. Rubber hoses expand about 30% more than aluminum lines do based on temperature. System pressure also affects rubber expansion more than aluminum, so as you pressurize a hose it will swell/expand by some factor... any growth on the pressurized system hardware will counteract the growth of the fluid during that dT of 100C and the difference between those growths is TECHNICALLY what your overflow will see... but good luck if you want to calculate growth of radiator/hoses/engine/etc.. it gets.. uhmm.. hard... in practice, it's much easier to just say use 7% and know you've got some safety margin on it dependent on system design.

 

Thanks for the explanation! I've gone down enough rabbit holes to know that there's way more to even seemingly simple problems than meets the eye. The fact that water's CTE changes by an order of magnitude over only 100°C is a great example of this.

I can sympathize with how difficult it would be to size an overflow tank (the right way, not eyeballing it like I did). I was curious if the diameter of a hole in a square plate got larger or smaller if you heated the plate up - the plate expands, so you would think it would get smaller, right? The answer is, as it usually is, it depends. In this case it depends on the geometry of the plate. Extrapolate that to an entire (pressurized) cooling system and I can see how difficult that would be. I work in aerospace so you have to have a solid argument for most design decisions, either through analysis or test. It's interesting most of the time, but sometimes it can drag on. Anyways, thanks for the explanation!

 

With material and G-code in hand it was time to set the program zero and run the program. About an hour and a half later I ended up with the first batch of parts.



You may have noticed that the top part is shifted to the left and off the sheet… I learned the hard way that there's a gotcha in the plasma table software that will incorrectly indicate where the torch is, therefore causing the operator to set the origin in the wrong spot. I caught it after the first (top) part, but I was still a little irked. Other than that the parts came out great. This is sheet 1 of 3, sheet 2 contained the short sides and reinforcements and sheet 3 is identical to the one shown.

There was a few hours of cleanup before I could weld things together - I had to remove the dross, clean up the spots to be welded, and ream the holes. Getting the holes the right size was the hardest part of all of this, and I can see why all of the commercial options are laser cut. As I've learned, plasma cut edges always have some degree of taper, especially in holes under 1.25" in diameter. With some process development I was able to get the taper down from 0.050" to 0.025" on the diameter, but the holes still came out inconsistent enough that they all required some post-processing. I over-sized the holes by 0.025" (0.650" nominal) and ran a through them to clean them up. This worked out well, the holes were still reasonably tight and it only took a few seconds per hole to ream them to size. This may sound like a lot of work to get appropriately sized holes, but if they're tapered and too large the clamps won't really work - they'll run out of travel before they clamp anything.



The table top was immediately useful, even if it wasn't flat quite yet. Being able to clamp things down while grinding is super helpful. Assembly was easy, if not tedious. I started by clamping everything together with U bolts and all of the clamps I own.



I don't have a ton of pictures of the rest of the process, but the general gist was I got the sides aligned with the top (there's enough slop that they can translate horizontally), clamped the middle brace to the top, clamped the sides to the brace, and tacked it all together. I then moved from the center out to minimize the amount of "wrinkling". Flux core MIG was used for speed and penetration - my machine can only do 10Ga with shielding gas but up to 5/16" with flux core. Welding this together took a lot longer than I anticipated, it was almost 7 hours to get it all welded together. I'm happy with how it came out, though:





I measured the top and sides for flatness with a straightedge and shim - the top is flat to 0.005" and the sides 0.010". For a weldment I'm super happy with that, the individual pieces certainly weren't that flat before I assembled them. I sanded down the faces with 80 grit, applied some CRC rust inhibitor, and hauled all 120lbs inside for the evening. A few days later I was able to use the table to make the base.



Having the ability to quickly square things up and hold them in position was super helpful. The table doesn't eliminate weld distortion but it certainly reduces it. The worst-case dimension was out by about 1/4" - the tops were closer than the bottoms, which is expected with how it's built.





The wheels are cheapo Amazon metal casters, I paid $30 for all 4. I was pleasantly surprised by how nice these are - they roll super smoothly, even under load.



The base was attached with 1/2" bolts, and it was easy enough to attach the base to the table. I had to undersize the mounting plates on the underside of the table to save material, but it worked out well since I used that gap to insert the bolts.





Overall I'm super happy with how this came out. It was a LOT more work than I was expecting - it took around 20 hours just to assemble the table and build the base - but I'm glad I did it. Not only is it much nicer to work with than my previous setup (a pair of sawhorses), but it takes up a lot less space, too. I'd initially planned on assembling the second table this past weekend, but given how much time it takes I'm putting it off until I get the Miata in the road.

Speaking of which, I haven't completely neglected the car. I've been working on the thousand little details left, I'll put together another post on those. Getting close to being done with all of the fluids in the engine bay - assuming nothing leaks (a big assumption) I just need to build an intake. Which I'm putting off until I get the car driving.

 

The two biggest items I had left from a fabrication perspective were the AC lines and the power steering reservoir. I was initially going to do the AC lines after I got the car driving, but since I had everything apart I figured I might as well do them now. I've seen other swaps (mostly from V8R) where they ran soft lines directly from the compressor to the evaporator. While that's effective I don't really like how it looks so I decided to look for another solution.

I came across this thread where they reused old soft lines by cutting the crimps off and re-crimping new hoses on. This had two implications:

1. I could re-use a Camaro compressor manifold and just weld Miata compressor fittings on
2. I could re-use most of the Miata hard lines, provided they fit around the engine

I started by modifying the evaporator hard lines. From the factory both the low pressure (large) and high pressure (small) lines route on the inside of the frame rail, which was now a problem because that space is occupied by engine. The line from the condenser (bottom of the image) actually cleared everything with some minor bending so that was left as-is.



I started with the low pressure line by trying to bend it by hand - nope. This was going to be a cut\weld job. Which worried me since it was small diameter (5/8"), thin wall (0.049") aluminum tubing. The other concern I had was if I'd have enough material to re-route the line and still end at the same location. Fortunately it worked out on both fronts - I was able to produce some ugly-but-functional welds and I had just enough material to make it fit.





The HP line was actually pretty simple - it was small enough to anneal and bend by hand. I'm happy with how this came out. I've got the LP soft line attached in the image below to clearance the service port, more on those in a bit.



The other half of the puzzle was the compressor side. I ordered a set of Camaro lines for $35 and immediately chopped them up. This is what they started life looking like.



I was after the part that bolts to the compressor, top right. Lines from 2010 and 2015 are different (the compressors are the same), I chose the 2010 since it looked like it would fit better. I was surprised by how well they fit as-is - one was pointing in the wrong direction, but otherwise they were about the right shape. I don't have any pictures of the process, but here's what I ended up with. Note that I've replaced the soft line end with the Miata one, that way I can get "Miata" soft lines made.





It's hard to take a good picture of this part since it's a very freeform shape. It looks sort of goofy but it's about the only routing that works. At this point I had both ends of the hoses finished so I went to a local hydraulic hose shop to buy some line and I immediately ran into an issue - the guy there was not familiar with automotive AC line and didn't have the right hose. Industrial AC hoses are very different, unfortunately. I'd read online that this should have been easy, and it seems like this may have been true in the past but not today, at least in my area.

This is where I'm at as of yesterday. I can't seem to find anyone locally to re-crimp the AC lines so it's back to the drawing board. It's looking like the most straightforward path will be to cut the fittings off of the manifold, condenser, and LP hard lines and and either weld or braze on beadlock fittings like these, then either have them crimped locally or buy a cheap Amazon tool as a last resort. Still researching at this point but I was hoping this wouldn't be this difficult. If anyone has experience with this sort of stuff I'm all ears!

 

Mr 305 approves

 

I was wondering when someone was going to notice that 😅. A friend of mine got me that flag as a gag gift and now Pitbull encourages me as I weld

 

In parallel with the AC lines I was also working on the PS reservoir and the coolant return. I somehow took zero pictures of the PS reservoir, but here's a stock one and the finished product





I removed the factory bracket (and tore holes in the bottom of the reservoir -_-), cut, plugged, and relocated the pump feed line, and made a new return line. The pump feed line started off life as a 3/4" straight tube which I then notched, bent, and welded to make some tight radius bends. It's got the wonky up-over-down path for two reasons: The pump inlet is angled up and the area in front of the reservoir is barely big enough for an air filter. It's going to make removing the motor messy but it was the only option.

The coolant return simple enough and I'm glad I did it after the AC lines. I used the same 3/4" tube and welded a barb on to the coolant feed pipe



I'd bought a straight hose barb for the reservoir side which, as it turns out, would occupy the same space as the AC lines. I'd purchased a steel fitting in the event this happened, so a few minutes with the TIG welder and I had a solution





This photo makes it look like the hose is a straight shot but I was sure to leave some slack to account for engine movement. With all of the big stuff in place I hooked up the heater core for hopefully the last time - to describe that corner as tight would be a vast understatement.



Next step is to start it up again and leak check all of these welds I've done. If only 1/4 of them leak I'll consider it a win.

 

With the power steering and cooling systems now complete it was time to start it up and leak check everything


The good news is that none of my welds in either the cooling or power steering systems leak. This is what I was most worried about because that would mean I'd have to not only disassemble the Corner of Scraped Knuckles but also strip the paint, fix it, and repeat the whole process. Not something I really wanted to do, but it appears I don't have to.

The bad news is my lower radiator hose leaks... a lot. Part of the issue is I'm trying to seal a hose on a curved surface and part was that the spring clamps I bought don't apply enough pressure to seal the hoses. I'm using 1.25" ID hose on an 1.25" OD tube which would appear not to seal very well. My guess is "real" hose barbs are a little larger than the hose ID to aid with sealing. I'll be re-making this part using pie cut sections and buying some worm gear style hose clamps (even though I hate them). Despite leaking the radiator cooled very well - I'm actually worried it might over-cool the engine. Water got up to 105°C and the fans turned on low (wired in series), within about 30 seconds they were off again. The fans move about 4x more air on high.

There was one tiny leak on the heater hose bulkhead AN fittings (tightening should fix it), but otherwise everything else was dry. I'm calling this a success.

 

in regards to the barb question:

It's good practice to target 5% interference fit on the OD of your fitting to the ID of your rubber hose. Any less, and you start relying on your clamp more to make a seal. Any more and you'll find yourself wrestling with the hose more during install/removal. In your specific example, 1.25" ID hose would ideally target to run 1.3125" OD fitting or a 1.25" OD fitting would want a 1.1875" ID hose. Neither of those are really standard sizes, so bumping up in tube size to 1.375" OD (10% interference fit for 1.25 ID hose) is the only realistic play if clamps don't get you where you need to be. 10% interference fit will not be super fun to install without wetting the hose down first most likely. I hate worm clamps as well, but found myself using them in a few spots on the kswap when in a similar predicament.

 

Thanks for the tip, this was helpful! I was skeptical I was going to find 1-5/16" OD tube but, as is usually the case, McMaster had me covered.

Not a big update, but if I don't document it now I'll forget to later. Bought a two foot section of tube and pie cut a right angle together - not my prettiest welds but they hold pressure. I added weld beads to the ends after this photo, I just forgot to take a pic after. Compared to the bend I was previously using there's a ton more (straight) sealing surface. I was a little skeptical this would seal the first time I put it together, so I'm not surprised it failed.





This is not super fun to install so I greased up both sides prior to installing. Because the radiator side is a silicone hose I used regular grease on that side and silicone grease on the engine side. I also bought some fancy constant-tension hose clamps in the event this does not fix the leak, so between the two I'm pretty sure I've fixed it.

I'm still working on getting the AC hoses made, that'll be it's own manifesto post. In the meantime I've been putting the car back together, it's back on its wheels for the first time in about two years. I should have everything on hand to take a (very loud) drive around the block by the end of the month!

 

This post ended up being the guide I wish I'd had at the beginning of this process. It's pretty long so I've broken it up into two: background info and fabrication.

As I mentioned in a previous post the AC hoses turned out to be a lot more complicated than I was hoping. My frustration stems from a few sources: there's not a lot of information out there since most people remove the AC system, there's misinformation on both forums and the manufacturer's datasheets, and finally…



The importance of the last point can't be overstated. In an effort to fix the first few reasons I'm going to try to document what I've learned in the (rare) case anyone else ends up in the same boat.

I'm pretty familiar with the common types of fittings, mostly from my time at McMaster University and previous work experience. AC fittings are a completely different animal. There are two types of fittings: hard-to-hard line and hard-to-soft line. I'm going to focus on the latter since that's what I'm interested in, but a good overview of hard-to-hard can be found in the APCOair fittings catalog (also attached). I should note that none of the NB fittings are in that catalog (hard or soft), these are just the common ones available in the US.

Hard-to-soft fittings can be broken down into three categories: industrial, barb, and beadlock. Industrial fittings, like the name suggests, are primarily used on construction, agricultural, etc. equipment. These are what you can find on McMaster and at (my) local hydraulic hose shops, but it's all pretty pricy so I skipped them.

Barb fittings, from what I can tell, are an older style primarily used for R12 systems with non-barrier (plain rubber) hoses. R134a is a smaller molecule than R12 which is why (I'm assuming) these fittings aren't used for R134a. These are the types of fittings that can be re-crimped, and the ferrules (crimp sleeves) you can find online are for barb-type fittings.


Straight barbed splicer

Beadlock fittings are the ones I'm after - these are the type you see on modern cars, including the factory Miata lines. Unfortunately they can't be re-crimped, or at least I haven't been able to find a way to, so my initial plan wasn't going to work. The good news is that you can buy so-called weld-on fittings, which is a misnomer because they get brazed on to the hard line. These fittings are designed to fit over standard tube sizes and the legacy UAC website (and this site) do a great job of illustrating how the hoses and fitting sizes work.


Weld-on beadlock fitting, the flared side is designed to fit over standard sized tube and be brazed on. You can also find weld-on fittings that slip inside the tube.

The final piece of the puzzle is the soft line. There are two types sold today: standard and reduced barrier hose. The barrier refers to, I'm assuming, a barrier on the inside of the hose that prevents R134a from permeating out. A few manufacturers make this hose but Galaxy (formerly made by Goodyear, now Continental) hose is the most common. The reduced barrier hose has the same ID as the standard hose but, as the name suggests, has about a 25% smaller OD and is more flexible than standard hose. A typo in a lot of sources list the min bend radius of standard hose as half the reduced barrier, but don't believe it!


#10 standard (left) versus #10 reduced (right) barrier hose. The flexibility and weight difference is significant!

Hose comes in a few sizes, but the most common usage is #8 hose from the compressor to the condenser, #6 hose from the condenser to the evaporator, and #10 hose from the evaporator to the compressor. Reduced hose must be used with reduced fittings and likewise for standard hose. I only need comp->cond and evap->comp, so I bought #8 and #10 hose.

There are a few sellers for hose and fittings - most charge between $5 and $10 per fitting $3-4 per foot of hose. I inadvertently found a hack, though - Airparts lists equivalent part numbers from other manufacturers. I know rock auto carries UAC and four seasons products and their prices are usually a lot lower than other vendors so I took a look. Instead of $5-10 per fitting they have them for ~$1 per fitting. The UAC legacy website is also helpful for finding part numbers to then plug into rock auto.

The last piece of the puzzle is how to crimp the hoses on - for this I'm planning on having a local hydraulic hose shop crimp them. You can also buy a crimper on Amazon for $150, but I try to not buy tools I'll only use once. Plus having the shop do it should be cheaper.

Some other background info I found helpful but that does not relate to fittings: The build it yourself guys actually cover this process pretty well in their AC video (www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOpjxPkVgsc), if you haven't seen their stuff you're missing out. And while we're talking about Youtube videos, project farm did a review on aluminum brazing rod (www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKIKsDfRAcs). I bought the bernzomatic rods.

This concludes part 1 of the Great AC Line Cluster… you get the point. I'm (hopefully) wrapping up the lines in the next week, I'll post the second half when that's done.

 

It has been a long, hot week in the garage but at least I have something to show for it. More details to come.

 

Huge for moral!!!!! Well done

 

It continued running after the video cut, right?

I kid, I kid congrats man, that’s huge!

 

Thanks guys! Haha yes it did continue to run after the video cut, I forgot to ask my wife to take more videos in all of the excitement.

 

The car's been close to drivable for a few months now so I took the week of 28-July off to get it over the finish line. There was a bunch of odds and ends to finish up (torquing bolts, etc.) but I'll highlight the more interesting points.

My first goal was to finish the AC lines but… that didn't happen. After spending a day and a half on them I gave up and moved onto other things, otherwise they might have ended up in the trash. I just need to fix a pinhole leak in the manifold and it should be done. Once they're actually done I'll write it up in part 2 of The AC Line Manifesto.

Driveshaft

I could say a lot about the driveshaft but I'll keep it simple. I noticed when I got the engine in the car (Nov 2024) that the driveshaft I got from V8R was about 10mm too long. It took them SEVEN months (and countless calls and emails from me) to receive one that fit. Despite spending good money on this product I can't recommend it, it would have been easier and faster to just work with a local driveshaft shop directly. Fortunately I got it a few weeks before I needed it. It's a different version than what they were previously shipping, no adapter required and a decent telescoping range so it installs over the pins easier. If you can buy something from anyone other than V8R… I would do it.



I installed the driveshaft using flange head bolts and nylock flange nuts because "driveshaft falls out" is a failure mode I'd like to avoid. These required some trimming to fit, unfortunately, so if I were to do it again I'd just get socket head screws + washers like everyone else uses. M12x1.75x45mm is the correct hardware for these, I bought 50mm bolts and had to trim them down. I torqued these to 70 ft-lb (65ft-lb is the stock spec + 5ft-lb for the nylocks).

Speaking of hardware, I noticed that the axle nuts V8R provided didn't have any locking features - no hole or slot in the axle for a staked nut and the nuts weren't self-locking. Since these hold the wheels on I wanted a better solution, and after the driveshaft fiasco I decided to fix it on my own. I bought some M22x1.5 thin jamb nuts which seem to work well. I torqued the axle nut to 190 ft-lb and the jamb nut to 100 ft-lb. An unintended benefit of this combo is that the jamb nut has a larger hex than the axle nut so neither socket interferes with the wrong nut. No photo of this but it's visible in one of the subsequent photos.

Brakes

I plan on tracking the car as soon as it's ready and a prerequisite is bigger brakes in the front. I started shopping one day and… well, one thing lead to another and I ended up with the Brofab / AFCO setup on 0.88" rotors. The 949 setup with 1.25" rotors is nice but it makes wheel selection tricky. Given that I wanted to run the factory 16" wheels initially (which fit with a 10mm spacer) I think this was the right choice. Had I chosen the 1.25" kit I would have signed up for buying wheels, tires, shocks, etc. in addition to the brakes. I also upgraded to the Brofab hubs while I was at it.

One of the caveats to this (all?) BBKs with separate rotors and hats is that you need to bolt and safety wire the rotor to the hat. Because I don't really feel like safety wiring the rotor on and then finding rotor-induced a steering wheel shimmy I drew up a rotor centering tool, CAD file is here in case anyone wants it.



Since this is a dual-duty car I didn't want to run race pads all the time. I would normally buy a second set of rotors for the track but with this kit I'd either need a second set of hats or to swap the hats every time. Neither of those sounded like great options so I found the next best thing - Porterfield reports that the R4-S and ST-43 compounds are similar and shouldn't require re-bedding of the rotor. IE, one rotor should work for both pads. I bought the R-4S and ST-45 due to lead times but hopefully this works out. I installed everything and… there's almost twice as much pad as there is rotor.



With the front brakes in place I first needed to figure out what to do with the FL brake line. The factory hardline touches the exhaust, and even with some coaxing it's still only 1/4" away from the header. This made me uncomfortable. My options were to spend $200 on hard line flare and bending tools to make one 18" hard line… or I could spend $30 on a . I chose the latter.

As an aside, I read in the Midlana book that modern braided brake lines are basically as stiff as hard lines. I was also surprised by how cheap they are, a 60" line is ~$50. If/when I add ABS to the car I'd strongly consider just running all flex lines instead of all the bending / flaring needed to run new hard lines. Wouldn't look as nice but way easier to manage, faster, and probably cost-neutral with the tools.

Anyways, since I wasn't using a hard line I needed a way to keep the line away from the wheel. I notched the factory hard line bracket with a file, wrapped the brake line in some tubing, and safety wired it on. Seems to be holding up well so far but I'm going to keep an eye on it.





Next up was filling the brakes with fluid. I've filled a dry system the conventional way before ("pump… okay… pump…") and while effective it takes forever so I decided to try something different. I plumbed a can of brake fluid up to the RR caliper and made an adapter to connect my vacuum pump up to the master cylinder





I ran the vacuum pump until I got a steady stream of fluid running into the master cylinder. Rinse and repeat for the other 3 corners and I was done in about 30 minutes. The pedal is a little squishy but I was really happy with how this worked out. With a proper bleed they should be ready to go.

Filling the clutch slave cylinder did not go so smoothly. I tried the same technique as the brakes but the vacuum pump wasn't able to pull fluid up. After like 3 hours I figured out the technique: fill the clutch MC with fluid, run a tube from the slave cylinder bleeder up above the MC, and pull a vacuum on the tube. Once I did this I got a perfect bleed (and a vacuum pump full of brake fluid). I've got a solution for keeping the pump clean for next time, but at least I know how to do it. This is probably a situation where just doing it the conventional way would have worked better, but oh well.

Random stuff

Because the Camaro PS pump is way bigger than the Miata one a reducer is required, otherwise the steering is over boosted and you risk blowing out PS seals. Turn One used to make a part that did just that but they discontinued it due to low demand. This is where having a friend with a machine shop came in handy - I drew up a reducer that fits into the factory fitting and asked him (very nicely) to machine it for me. This appears to be working well (as far as I could tell on the first drive), so if anyone needs something like this ChathamCNC can make you one.



A post-drive inspection showed only one minor leak from the PS reservoir tube. This is the same issue I had with the coolant reservoir where I used a tube with the same OD as the hose ID, so I'll just get a tiny worm gear clamp and call it a day. Otherwise the first drive went off without a hitch.


I'm pretty happy with the raspberry Pi gauge cluster. The mounting obviously needs some work but functionally it's spot on. I'm making a few revisions to make it easier to read, getting it to boot up faster (22s is about the best I can do, I think), but otherwise it works perfectly. The web interface for viewing logs is also spot on - I'm not sure any professional DAQ systems offer that, but it's super convenient to be able to just go to a website on any device and do a quick data-check. The ECU did throw an odd error (knock sensor bank 2 processing error), but I also need to do a crank re-learn procedure so the two are probably related. No codes outside of those two, though.

If you're still reading… thanks for coming to my TED talk . I've got a bunch of little things to do before I bring it to get an exhaust made, but after that it should be ready to get on the road!

 

Nice update! Glad to see things coming together and I'm excited to see this thing move!

 

Great update man. Some killer fab work and solutions in there! I like the idea of being able to run SS braided brake lines instead of hard lines in certain areas. I'd like to relocate my ABS module at some point but really don't want to run all new hardlines to each corner of the car haha.

Can't wait to see how this thing does at the track!

 

I'm new here and just stumbled on this thread. I've only lightly skimmed over at this point and need to dedicate an evening to absorbing what appears to be a lot of good info. Nice work!