The Cuban builds a raft thread (Help! Sprung leak - call SamNavy)
 

Im back bitches. I picked up a 95 on friday for $1k. I drove up to Pompano Beach to pick it up. It was not easy on the eyes as the top looked like it has been in the middle of a gang shooting and it has car some dings an a minor nudge in the passenger door.



As I inspected the car I noticed that the rear end had the rubber stopper- TORSEN!!!!!!! :winner: - so I drove it around for a little bit before making the final offer. It drove home like a champ, it runs very strongz.



So now the intro is done lets get on with the good shit. First I plan on doing the preliminary maintenance, belts, fluids...etc, as IDK if it has been done already. What I have for the built is:



Braineack MS

PLX300

RX7 460cc red tops

GT2860R .64a/r

Godspeed IC

Egay piping

Egay BOV



What I need to replace/upgrade is my Manifold, MS harness, and oil feed lines. BTW the Mani is up for sale or trade. Im borrowing a camera to take pictures of the car, I dont want to hear bitching about cellphone pictures.

Nice. Good thing you never sold the turbo! If you want a good bov, ill sell you one of my Greddys cheap

Nice! Glad you got another car.

NOTE: Rubber damper doesn't necessarily mean it's a Torsen, but the lack of one means it definitely isn't. fwiw

Good to hear man, get it done for the dyno this Sat...lol
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lol thats what I said, I'll let you know about the BOV

Oh thanks for killing my joy, so how do I check for sure??

I need a 1.8 mani and a different harness, I thought about it but it highly unlikely I used all my cash to pay for the car and the insurance. I have to wait til my next paycheck to do some spending I dont want to use my credit card. I'll finally be able to make it to the event though, unless I crash again of course.

Buy my TB/WP kit and save some dough! https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t42478/

if is around when I get some cha ching in my pocket you'll hear from me

I'll send it to you now. Pay me when you can. PM me your addy.

Pm, sent.

Power mirrors = the car is not a base model. Only the base models were equipped with an open diff, unless the car is a non-standard configuration (or an STO)

But i've been wrong before...

it has manual mirrors.... whats the website where you can check with the vin??

pics now damnit! :D

Only pics I have right now are of the rubber stopper, and they are cell pics. I'll borrow a camera and snap some decent pics

95

If it has manual mirrors, it doesn't have a Torsen unless someone swapped it in.

http://www.miata.net/faq/Miata90-97A3.pdf

use this

I check M.net, in the differential spotter guide and it matches for an LSD :dunno:

so you pulled one of the halfshafts out to see that it had no spider gear axle?

the only thing you can tell from that spotters guide without opening up the diff:
if it does not have the rubber thingy, then it is definitely an open differential....

its too bad this is not a 'drivetrain spotters guide'

otherwise it would detail that only cars with Automatic transmissions AND open differentials did not have the rubber damper ring.

If your car is a 5-speed, you can't use this to determine open vs. torsen

All that thlink that I posted said is that you have to have the A and B package to have a Torsen. So, if it doesn't have power mirrors, it doesn't have the A Package. If it doesn't have the A package, it doesn't have a Torsen from the factory unless it was swapped in. I'd say that was unlikely on a truly stock car, but you never know.

I hate to be the kill joy...but read the caption for that pic again...and again...and again...until it makes sense.

Sorry about the no Torsen thing...but glad you're back in the game.

You guys are a bunch of dream killer fags :fawk:

EDIT: If anyone is looking for a 1.6 mani my is up for sale. I need a 1.8, I want to finish this bitch up as fast as possible

who cares, you got a good running 1.8NA for a grand! :bigtu:

Update. I just got my harness back from Scott and just order an AIT sensor kit. My MS should be up and running this weekend. BTW could anyone shime into what size of the air filter fits behind the headlight assembly, Im nowhere near my car and I only have internet access at work :bang:

Update. MS is in as well as the PLX300. My tach is out I've read that some ppl have had this issues but I'm writting from and iPhone and is bit of a pain to look for shit, could anyone give me a quick fix??

Also could any of you show me pics of your inlet piping. Although I trimmed the coolant hose and remove a fan I could not manage to route a pipe downward the idle valve and a sensor for the TPS is in the way.

I forget the fix for that. You most likely have a 95.5 which was like obd1.5 or something. I remember my friend Paul putting an MS in a car that was 95.5 and the tach didnt work. Check to see how many wires you got going to the coils.

Quick search came up with this "My 95 (late build) had the RPM wire in the wrong location when you look at the wiring diagrams from the workshop manual.

There's a blank space on the wiring diagrams in 1F. That's where my RPM wire was. "

I'm gonna go take a look at my hanes manual and see what I can conclude from there I wiretarded so yeah. I also read that the ignitors might be screwed

edit. I see tach wiring hmmm what now??? How do I make reference to the Ecu harness??

Injectors are in. Kia water neck and spacer are on it's way. While Wayne finishes my tubular mani I plan to do a reroute and probaly upgrade my radiator :)

Opinions needed
 

At this point I have quite few projects I would like to take care of before the snail goes in. First is the coolant re-route, then engine mounts, and then a clutch, and maybe a cylinder hear refresh.

I thought that pulling the engine/tranny out and do all those projects with the engine out would be a most convinient. What do you think??

Some goodies came in the mail yesterday, electric oil pressure gauge with sandwhich plate, and boost gauge. I waiting on the coolant gauge and adaptor. Here are some pics. The prices were very good and they seem of good quality, in case anyone is looking for gauges.

Prosport Amber / White Gauges - 52mm

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...boostgauge.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...sandwhichp.jpg

Let me know how hooking the electrical up to those gauges works out. I Can get mine white when I turn on the ignition, red when I flick on the lights, but it will stay red until I shut off the ignition. WTF. I've got the same oil psi gauge and adapter plate, as well as the coolant temp gauge.

Great :makeout:. I thought they were a good deal when I saw them. Ill keep in mind the wiring issue and report back once they're mounted. Post some pics of the ones on your car.

Here we go

http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/3532/img4850.jpg

They look great. I was actually wondering what I should do as to placement is concern. I thought about a 3-gauge pillar, but I think Ill look too 'honduh"

Is this what you have for mounting

Mazda Miata Parts & Accessories at MiataMania.com

I don't know if it's a TDR one, but it's the same as the one on the top here
TDR Custom Gauges

I got it off some local Protege guy. I'm missing the middle section since my car came with a double DIN radio. Not sure where to find that piece, so it sits a bit loose.

air vents!

I need the air vents. I drive this motherfucker everywhere, giving up the AC is one thing I want to keep at least the fan.

pussy, i dont rock ac and niether does phil, and we dd our car.

You guys are Gs

Just wait till summer....

hopefully i will have a soft top by then

Wouldnt the soft top worsen things?? we can trade (borrow) if you like?? :D

all u need is a soft top so u can get the wind in

I didn't have a/c last summer. The compressor was dead weight.
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I really dont care about the AC as much, but I would like to keep the fan fuctioning. Thats why I dont want to use all the air vents. Im also meh about the 3-gauge pillar.

get that dash kit that cspence was selling. or get the thing that replace the center console

So from I've read hawks blues are good for street use so I'll be ordering this any comments
Mazda Performance Parts: Hawk Blue Brake Pad Set - FRONT

It says "Track ONLY pad"

I swa that but the threads I saw most ppl recommended hawk blues for street use. Those are the only hawks blues I found :dunno:

Just get some cheapy pads (autozone) for the street.

They say the blues eat rotors, and are probably pretty squeaky on the street. Get blues to swap in for track days or whatever.

I have hawk blue's and they work fine on the street. I have noticed that you go thru the rotors as fast as the pads. Standard rotors are cheap enough, so doesn't bother me.

Updates this weekend... I HAZ A HT!! and Im stuck trying to pull the shock/spring assembly from the front of the car :vash: it wont fucking come off. I just looked over at some "How to" websites and it recommends to unbolt the sway bar.

Any tips??

BFH method?

Bfh???

Like big f'in hammer. To bang the shit out. :eek5:

what are you having trouble doing? front or rear? what wont budge?

Aight

The front. I unbolted the shock assembly and the control arm bolt right below it. (As per Haines manual) the I tried to play with the arm to get some clearance to remove the shock/spring, and when is almost out I cant make any more room to whiggle the fucking thing out. So I went over some pages and saw that is adviced to unbolt the sway bar and that upper bolt in the control arm by where the caliper is.

did you remove the upper control arm long bolt (21mm iirc)?

To do this, you need to back the sway bar bracket bolts (12mm) down until the are flush with the welded nuts. Otherwise when you start to pull it out the head of the long bolt hits the two bolts.

Once you back that out the top control arm literally drops out of the way.

I then step on the rotor to get clearance up top to pull the mount out, sometimes you need to compress the shock itself...just let go of the rotor when the mount is pinched between the body and then push the rotor back down fast and it should have more than enough clearance to clear the body into the fender.


make sense?

Like in step 7 here

Miata Shock removal

si, senior.

i dont remember unbolting the sway bar...but I guess you could to get extra droop if needed.