Curly's car's cupgrades.
06-17-2009, 10:02 PM
#21
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NACA ducts are here, what an annoyance! Running back and forth between my dad's woodworking shop, my shed, and where the car is parked, it took about two hours total. That includes tearing down the door which includes taking both the triangle window and main glass pane out, like I said, it was a pane <---LOL
I'm not writing any descriptions for these, cause it's pretty f'ing obvious what it is.
Here's the finished engine bay. Technically speaking I still need to seal up the valve cover, bolt up my heat shield and shock tower brace, but that's it. Oh, and I need a COPs harness! Savington, if you're reading this, did you get my PM? Railz hasn't come though with pics, and I'm not buying a harness that could turn out to be made my Picaso.
Quick question about the valve cover, do you guys use silicone gasket material on both sides of the rubber seal, or just the bottom? And does anybody know what the two wire rectangle sensor looking thing is beside the ignitor?
I'm not writing any descriptions for these, cause it's pretty f'ing obvious what it is.
Here's the finished engine bay. Technically speaking I still need to seal up the valve cover, bolt up my heat shield and shock tower brace, but that's it. Oh, and I need a COPs harness! Savington, if you're reading this, did you get my PM? Railz hasn't come though with pics, and I'm not buying a harness that could turn out to be made my Picaso.
Quick question about the valve cover, do you guys use silicone gasket material on both sides of the rubber seal, or just the bottom? And does anybody know what the two wire rectangle sensor looking thing is beside the ignitor?
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07-02-2009, 12:25 AM
#22
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Alright, so I've been driving the car a bit since the reroute install, and everything seems to be working fine. I'm certainly not over heating, but only time and a track day will tell if I made a mistake by not routing the heater core return through the radiator.
I do have one main problem though: while in boost I have a high pitched whine that I'm worried about. I was thinking maybe the turbo bearing, but after idling for a few seconds, I shut the engine off and the compressor continues to spin for 15.5 seconds (timed on my iPhone's stopwatch), so that makes me think the bearing's fine. It definitely sounds like it's coming from the engine bay, so I rulled out the FP. Sounds like a straight cut or sequential gearbox whine. I certainly hope it's not the transmission. I'd like to think it's not, since it only happens while in boost. Anybody have an idea as to what it might be? Your diagnostic help is greatly appreciated, as always. I'm going to check shaft play once it's cooled off. F'ing turbo's get hot.
I do have one main problem though: while in boost I have a high pitched whine that I'm worried about. I was thinking maybe the turbo bearing, but after idling for a few seconds, I shut the engine off and the compressor continues to spin for 15.5 seconds (timed on my iPhone's stopwatch), so that makes me think the bearing's fine. It definitely sounds like it's coming from the engine bay, so I rulled out the FP. Sounds like a straight cut or sequential gearbox whine. I certainly hope it's not the transmission. I'd like to think it's not, since it only happens while in boost. Anybody have an idea as to what it might be? Your diagnostic help is greatly appreciated, as always. I'm going to check shaft play once it's cooled off. F'ing turbo's get hot.
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07-04-2009, 02:29 AM
#23
Alright, so I've been driving the car a bit since the reroute install, and everything seems to be working fine. I'm certainly not over heating, but only time and a track day will tell if I made a mistake by not routing the heater core return through the radiator.
I do have one main problem though: while in boost I have a high pitched whine that I'm worried about. I was thinking maybe the turbo bearing, but after idling for a few seconds, I shut the engine off and the compressor continues to spin for 15.5 seconds (timed on my iPhone's stopwatch), so that makes me think the bearing's fine. It definitely sounds like it's coming from the engine bay, so I rulled out the FP. Sounds like a straight cut or sequential gearbox whine. I certainly hope it's not the transmission. I'd like to think it's not, since it only happens while in boost. Anybody have an idea as to what it might be? Your diagnostic help is greatly appreciated, as always. I'm going to check shaft play once it's cooled off. F'ing turbo's get hot.
I do have one main problem though: while in boost I have a high pitched whine that I'm worried about. I was thinking maybe the turbo bearing, but after idling for a few seconds, I shut the engine off and the compressor continues to spin for 15.5 seconds (timed on my iPhone's stopwatch), so that makes me think the bearing's fine. It definitely sounds like it's coming from the engine bay, so I rulled out the FP. Sounds like a straight cut or sequential gearbox whine. I certainly hope it's not the transmission. I'd like to think it's not, since it only happens while in boost. Anybody have an idea as to what it might be? Your diagnostic help is greatly appreciated, as always. I'm going to check shaft play once it's cooled off. F'ing turbo's get hot.
Worth checkin out
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07-04-2009, 04:54 AM
#24
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Interesting, I certainly hope it's something small like that.
It started making the whine after installing my reroute, but at the same time I rotated the BOV to a different position, along with installing different clamps on the BOV, and eliminated my DIY dual feed fuel rail. Maybe it's the BOV? It's VTA without a check valve, but I've been running like this for a while without any noise, but perhaps the different orientation is causing a weird leak. I'll try reinstalling the check valve and see if that helps.
Is 15psi too much for a Bosch BOV?
It started making the whine after installing my reroute, but at the same time I rotated the BOV to a different position, along with installing different clamps on the BOV, and eliminated my DIY dual feed fuel rail. Maybe it's the BOV? It's VTA without a check valve, but I've been running like this for a while without any noise, but perhaps the different orientation is causing a weird leak. I'll try reinstalling the check valve and see if that helps.
Is 15psi too much for a Bosch BOV?
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07-05-2009, 11:34 PM
#26
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Its a used plastic one I bought off ebay years ago. Looks like I'm gonna need to upgrade. Are the <$50 BOV on ebay considered any good? And why is everything bolt on, aren't there any decent clamp on styles?
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07-06-2009, 12:11 PM
#27
As far as the ebay ones...its a case by case thing. Some people have luck, some do not. I'm debating on giving one a try. As for the flanges, you can get a little adapter that turns the flange into the clamp on type.
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07-06-2009, 03:55 PM
#28
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That leak I told you I thought I fixed is still there this morning. When I hit 12psi it makes the sound. I need to replace my plastic bosch valve as well...
As far as the ebay ones...its a case by case thing. Some people have luck, some do not. I'm debating on giving one a try. As for the flanges, you can get a little adapter that turns the flange into the clamp on type.
As far as the ebay ones...its a case by case thing. Some people have luck, some do not. I'm debating on giving one a try. As for the flanges, you can get a little adapter that turns the flange into the clamp on type.
eBay Store – ilovetacotaco: Search results for type rs.
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07-20-2009, 04:42 PM
#30
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Can you link me to a similar one? I don't care about sound, honestly I'd love the Bosch to make more sound. Right now with my race exhaust I can't hear it at all. I still have the whine and I'm pretty sure it's coming from my BEGI fpr, but my AFR look fine so I'm going to leave it alone.
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07-20-2009, 04:45 PM
#31
This is what I got:
Type-H/RFL BOV Blow off Turbo K20 Civic RSX B18 WRX STI:eBay Motors (item 350224372865 end time Jul-16-09 13:39:35 PDT)
Very adjustable. At first it surged unless I was lifting at full boost. Now the surge is gone and it holds, but the sound has a weird whistle to it. I think I can figure something out with a piece of foam or something. When it was too tight it sounded awesome, like a whip cracking.
Again, was very surprised by the quality. Its sturdy...I dont see how it could possibly break.
Type-H/RFL BOV Blow off Turbo K20 Civic RSX B18 WRX STI:eBay Motors (item 350224372865 end time Jul-16-09 13:39:35 PDT)
Very adjustable. At first it surged unless I was lifting at full boost. Now the surge is gone and it holds, but the sound has a weird whistle to it. I think I can figure something out with a piece of foam or something. When it was too tight it sounded awesome, like a whip cracking.
Again, was very surprised by the quality. Its sturdy...I dont see how it could possibly break.
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07-21-2009, 07:55 PM
#32
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Freaking $20 a roll!
Necessary to tape this scrap of carpet (with insulation on the back) to the tranny tunnel to keep my feet cooler. An essential on any stripped turbo car, I've even seen it in an SM. Standard duct tape failed after a 30 minute spirited drive on the road.
This is just cause I'm proud of it, my cut down ignitor bracket. Saved at least 1/16 of a lbs.
all cleaned up.
I routed the heater core return underneath the reroute spacer and then along the long pipe under the intake manifold, where I'll hook it up to a + shaped union which will be spliced into the radiator inlet hose, and have this hose plus my coolant temp sensor in it. The thick wire zip tied to the fuel line is the capillary tube for the temp gauge.
Dub temp gauge. It's lower than I wanted it, but I'm running out of time and this is good enough for now. One plus is that wherever my hands are on the wheel, it's never blocked.
Necessary to tape this scrap of carpet (with insulation on the back) to the tranny tunnel to keep my feet cooler. An essential on any stripped turbo car, I've even seen it in an SM. Standard duct tape failed after a 30 minute spirited drive on the road.
This is just cause I'm proud of it, my cut down ignitor bracket. Saved at least 1/16 of a lbs.
all cleaned up.
I routed the heater core return underneath the reroute spacer and then along the long pipe under the intake manifold, where I'll hook it up to a + shaped union which will be spliced into the radiator inlet hose, and have this hose plus my coolant temp sensor in it. The thick wire zip tied to the fuel line is the capillary tube for the temp gauge.
Dub temp gauge. It's lower than I wanted it, but I'm running out of time and this is good enough for now. One plus is that wherever my hands are on the wheel, it's never blocked.
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07-21-2009, 11:06 PM
#34
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I had an eBay carpet set that I bought right before I decided to buy a new car and make this one a track ****. Ended up going in storage and the mice ate through it. Salvaged that piece, which is from the driver side floor, you can tell from the pad. $185 piece of carpet there. I'll report back how the tape works after this upcoming trackday. I seriously hope it's not getting above 260*
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07-25-2009, 06:41 PM
#35
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Installed my oil cooler, thanks to Cueball1 for selling it to me, he bought it for $145 off ebay and never installed it. Yes I know it's not in direct air flow, but the stainless steel lines WOULD NOT BEND and it was a complete pain. Not only that but the 90* angled -8AN fittings were really long and a pain to deal with. Once I have more time I'll be rotating it up or down, depending on which way the lines would like to bend, and then cutting up my hood to make an extractor hood, cause with all this air I'm shoving in, I'm really starting to get a sense that it has no where to go.
Another plus, although you can't see it in the 2nd picture, is that the hole exposes a bit more of the radiator, which is otherwise severely hidden by my intercooler.
Along with a rerouted heater core, this oil cooler, 100% distilled water with a bottle of water wetter, I hope to stay cool. I also sealed the stock plastic under tray to the bottom of the radiator, doubt it'll do anything, but worth a shot.
Another plus, although you can't see it in the 2nd picture, is that the hole exposes a bit more of the radiator, which is otherwise severely hidden by my intercooler.
Along with a rerouted heater core, this oil cooler, 100% distilled water with a bottle of water wetter, I hope to stay cool. I also sealed the stock plastic under tray to the bottom of the radiator, doubt it'll do anything, but worth a shot.
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10-30-2009, 09:13 PM
#36
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Reviving this thread because.....
ITS HERE!!
No, not the beer, and no, not Transformers 2. That's right, after two years of bandaids and loud popping noises while I shift, I had Wayne Curr build me a MegaSquirt. Countless useless threads about connecting it to my lap top to follow soon
First thing I did after Anton (Wayne Curr) poured hours into building it was tear it apart. I had to see what was in there, and it looks amazing! Braineack, you've got northwestern competition.
The plan is to take this to my GF's where the car is, use my Dell Inspiron 9400, the serial adapter from DIYautotune.com, a $3.99 serial cable, and my untested and most likely explosive PnP harness to get my car running, tuned, and ready for the track next summer.
I used the wiki page for a wiring diagram, having the stock Mazda plug read out and the DB37 MS readout with actual lines running between them was a huge help. I ransacked my stock ECU for the plug, which saved me $12 I think. I have serious concerns about it's reliability and function.
Coupled with some used R888's, and my Porterfield race pads that barely have 2 track days on them, I hope to be much fast next year. Updates/frustration/suicide notes/questions/pictures all to follow soon!
ITS HERE!!
No, not the beer, and no, not Transformers 2. That's right, after two years of bandaids and loud popping noises while I shift, I had Wayne Curr build me a MegaSquirt. Countless useless threads about connecting it to my lap top to follow soon
First thing I did after Anton (Wayne Curr) poured hours into building it was tear it apart. I had to see what was in there, and it looks amazing! Braineack, you've got northwestern competition.
The plan is to take this to my GF's where the car is, use my Dell Inspiron 9400, the serial adapter from DIYautotune.com, a $3.99 serial cable, and my untested and most likely explosive PnP harness to get my car running, tuned, and ready for the track next summer.
I used the wiki page for a wiring diagram, having the stock Mazda plug read out and the DB37 MS readout with actual lines running between them was a huge help. I ransacked my stock ECU for the plug, which saved me $12 I think. I have serious concerns about it's reliability and function.
Coupled with some used R888's, and my Porterfield race pads that barely have 2 track days on them, I hope to be much fast next year. Updates/frustration/suicide notes/questions/pictures all to follow soon!
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10-31-2009, 02:27 PM
#40
Oh wow, didn't realize you had COPs. Gonna have to adjust some settings for those. Do you know what their dwell is?
Since in my packing haste I forgot to flash the DIY basemap for you, you're going to want to do that then set your Spark Out Inverted to YES in the spark settings. Then set your base timing. Then get larger injectors before you take this thing to the track. They likely wont handle your fueling now without the AFPR.
Since in my packing haste I forgot to flash the DIY basemap for you, you're going to want to do that then set your Spark Out Inverted to YES in the spark settings. Then set your base timing. Then get larger injectors before you take this thing to the track. They likely wont handle your fueling now without the AFPR.
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