Damon's Build Thread
 

I just hooked up and calibrated the LC-1, so the build has officially begun.

The car:

Attachment 207536

1992 SE (this isn't my first time around the block with this dark lady).

I have been tenderly caressing the BEGi 4.1 IHI system sitting in the garage for far too long, and studies be damned, it was time to do something about it.

The kit:

Attachment 207537

Attachment 207538

Still waiting on a few pipes...

This build would have happened a long time ago, but sourcing injectors was a fiasco, and the free time I used to have has quickly disappeared as the semester got into full swing.

I am setting up the Braineack-sourced MS as we speak, and will post up with any probs.

After that I plan to acclimate myself to tuning while NA for a week, get the ACT XT clutch in, and drill and tap the pan (will leave drain with a plug in top).

I have already got the IC on, just sans piping.

Post up with questions, concerns or advice.

Could NOT get my laptop to talk to MS last night, or any of two others either, one of which had a real serial port. I was still convinced it was the string of adapters that I had, so I went to RadioHack this morning and got the real USB A to serial adapter.

We'll see if this works.

I'll be in Houston on Saturday if you need any hand holding.

Will be working 10-12hrs all nine days of spring break, and don't plan on doing much with the car. Thanks though, good luck finding someone to fill in for me on Montrose.

Am trying to get MS running so I can snag a few logs and get used to tuning over the break.

Right now I can't get a single laptop to communicate with MS.

ive been working 10 hour days on my car over my spring break. unfortunately weather isnt cooperating and im outside so i have only been able to work on it a few days.

Hopefully boost by sunday!

good luck!

Man, lucky you. I wish I could spend 10hrs a day on the car, I'd have it done in no time.

Good luck getting to boostedness.

See you late-night at Katz...I have an apartment over there too. We can rub cocks together.

Katz's Never Kloses...

kinda like your anus :giggle:

It's official...


I'm MEGASQUIRTIN' (rock theme plays)


This is great.


I'm still trying to iron out some issues, like why MS isn't picking up RPMs or AFRs on the GUI.

I am also getting really high (lean) AFRs at idle, but it smells pig rich.

Got timing good enough to take around block though. It lugs around under about 2Krpm, and then wants to just take off (with AFRs in the 12-13s.

Thanks for all the help Scott!

Ok, when I look at my .msq info:

Lines 1-7,10 are 029q

Lines 8-9 are hr_10

Might this have something to do with the 6 warnings I get when opening MegaTune?

did you install the hr_10g softwares like i outlined?

hmm, not since I reflashed. will go back through it

EDIT: I'm still opening up the same project folder

Very nice. You TOTALLY need my tokico setup though. ;)

How can I be sure I'm running high res?

I've uninstalled MegaTune and gone through the complete reinstall on two different laptops.

It now idles kind of goofy up to about 2K rpm, and then takes off like a scalded dog.

You are completely right.

If only I could finish this part of the project...



I'm not sure what to make of it.

It may be running lean at lower rpms, but can't be sure.

What kind of AFRs should I be seeing at cruise and off throttle?

VICTORY IS MINE!!!!

I finally got everything working right. It involved manually copying the modified .inc files from the reflash into the project directory, and deleting a few that the install threw into there.

Thanks to karter74 for that one, and to Braineack for his help throughout the whole afternoon.

The car runs as well or better than with the stock ECU. I only found one stumble that I'm going to try and tune out with a log over spring break.

The maiden voyage went very well. The idle is actually better than stock, which I guess means I've got a vacuum leak to chase down.

Since idle is better the PS pump works like a champ, which really freaked me out. Good thing that's coming off.

Thanks to everyone for encouragement and support.

TURBO should hit car soon after spring break.

I used to be all about the depowered steering rack idea. I loved how it simplified the engine bay and gave all that room. Then I got a chance to drive my dad's miata, which has manual steering.

That shit is for the birds. I'll keep my power steering. Just sayin'. You might want to drive a depowered car first before you go through all the trouble.

Yeah, I'm unsure where to go, and just how far, with weight reduction and feedback mods.

I'm probably going to finish the turbo install before I get into that, but it would be nice to have that room when putting the kit in.

I have already removed and sold my stereo, speakers and amps. This saved me 25lbs, and put $150 back into the build budget. It left a really sweet taste in my mouth that I want to go back for.

I think I started down and ugly road that there is NO turning back from. Hell, I myself have already lost 11lbs since I started the project.

On the power steering though, I've always been a fan of feedback. Plus I'm fuckin' SWOLE like hustler's pinups. Seriously though, I used to drive a '65 Impala 4 door with a "three on the tree"...no power steering.

Call me a bird I guess, but I'm about to take out everything I don't NEED in that car.

What's that in your glove box kid?

Attachment 207479

Why nothing officer...just a programmable standalone ECU!


With LC-1 and USB a - serial cables at the ready.

Man I'm lovin' this.

Spring Break Sucked
 

So I have worked 12hr days for the past 10days straight since leaving school the Friday before the break. This is good, as I now have saved up half of next semester's tuition, but bad since I did basically nothing to the car.

Well, I did do something. I took off my lovely BBS wheels (for sale here: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t32708/ ) to clean them up and take decent pics for all the craigslisters.

I put the cheap set of daisies I had on there...

Attachment 207241

And well, it's another black miata with daisies. These have basically new Potenzas on them, so I thought they would serve well for the Houton-BCS commute.

I HATE these wheels. I can handle the looks (besides the higher profile tire jacking me up to mudhole ready heights), but handling went down the shitter.

I didn't think the weight and thinner/taller tire would have that much effect, but I guess I've known this car with 10lb wheels for about a decade, and I got used to it.

Advice: If you've never treated yourself to lightweight wheels, try it someday.

I also did another free air/heater calibration because my LC-1 was taking 30minutes to warmup sometimes. It's much better now.


Today was semi productive. I took off all of this shit:

Attachment 207242

Which is for sale in whole or in parts if someone is interested.

I love having this space:

Attachment 207243
disregard dirty engine bay

More is going to come out, namely: PS, A/C & cruise. Then I'll clean and paint, and tap the oil pan.

I am stiiiiilllll waiting on intercooler piping from BEGi for the kit I bought two stinkin months ago!!! :vash:

So to take out the AFM meant I needed an interim intake solution.

Behold "O'reilly exhaust elbow zip tied to A/C line with adapter to BEGi intake elbow casting" super cold air intake:

Attachment 207244

I know it's cheesy, but if BEGi has a chance of making it as our favorite late shipper of HOT parts then it should only be there another week.

Either way, my intake temps are basically at ambient since it's getting air from the R-package lip vent.

I also worked on making my laptop (Windows 7beta) communicate better with MS. I barely got it running last week via a reflash using friend's computer, but mine now changes values without screwing up high res .incs.

I also changed my ignitor, which gave me a tach again. Yeah!

I still don't have a tach readout in Megatune, but I know it's getting the signal.

I tried autotune today, but didn't seem to change a lot, bottom line of graph consistently said something about values outside of window.

I "tuned" my VE table a little to improve driveability, and hope to improve idle a little tomorrow.


NEXT UP:

Swap in RX7 injectors

Tap oil pan

Wrap heater hoses

Swap in ACT clutch

I'm having so much fun driving this thing around.

Without the frakkin' AFM pos it pulls like a banshee.

My cheap ass intake makes it sound like the motor is sucking down a milkshake too. I don't know how loud it is outside the car, but this must be why IRTB guys think they are god's gift to the NA world. They must hear this times 10.

Ordered injector lower seals today since my RX7 "scammer sold to rharris who was nice enough to GIVE them to me" injectors don't have them. I will feel better with new rubber anyways, unlike hustler, who likes to reuse rubbers to poz up unsuspecting negs.

I got the 460cc RX7 injectors in today. I managed to do this without setting myself on fire too, which was nice. Took a few datalogs to get it straightened out, and now runs nearly as well as with stock injectors.

I ended up re-using the rubber parts. I wasn't comfortable with this, but when I showed up at O'reilly to pick up the injector kits, they handed me four heavy boxes, which all contained some HUGE diesel injector. They had dropped a "4" out of the part number when they sent them over from the other store. I should have kept my mouth shut and walked out with $400 worth of injectors, since they would have charged me the $28 on the invoice.

Either way they couldn't round up the right parts after that.

I'm not getting any fuel or vacuum leaks so far, so I'll stop worrying for a while.




Support systems left before turbo:

ACT clutch install (part on hand)

Drill and tap pan




EDIT: I also have Megatune working flawlessly with my laptop, and have taken atleast 15 datalogs, and modified VE tables with them in MLV. It's so easy I don't know why people even mess with Autotune.

I had just gotten my stock injector VE table really smoothed out when I plopped in the bigger injectors. It was worth the experience "tuning" though.

Oh yeah, I'm also planning on adding water injection, but will keep it in the other thread ( https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t33174/ ) until I get the setup ready to install.

Did a lot today suspension-wise.

I couldn't stand the monster truck look anymore. It wasn't as bad with the wider, lower aspect ratio tires I had on the BBS basketweaves, but the tall skinny daisy tires looked gay as can be.

I put the Tein S-Tech springs on, with a 1/2" spacer in the rear. This gave it a really nice stance,

Attachment 207160

and the front wheels look perfect in the wheel well now.

Attachment 207161

I also removed the rear sway bar, and am really enjoying this setup. Stiffness is great, and ride is actually really nice. It doesn't feel super low, and I didn't bottom out anywhere. I did scrape the bumper lip on the driveway, and will probably have to keep parking on the street. It seems to push a lot more, but oversteer is much more controllable without the rear bar.


I also talked to Stephanie today, and BEGi is going to get my IC pipes to me on the pronto. She was very helpful, and had adressed all of my pressing issues by the time she called me this afternoon. It seems like sometimes it takes a lot of prodding to get them to move, but when they do, the manner and product is always pleasing and impressive.


So turbo should hit car next week. Fingers crossed.

Great progress.

Thanks, trying to do a little every day.

Today won't get much done between classes and work besides running dimmer/light wires to my gauges.




BEGi sent me what they have ready of the parts I lack OVERNIGHT. They really didn't have to do that, and I would have never expected them to. It was put on the delivery truck an hour ago...this means I'll get some more stuff today!

I hear a lot about them being late, yada yada, but it seems when they know they're holding you up, they really bust it to catch up.

I think it just tickles me that they are also putting in effort at the same time I am. It's very easy to become frustrated when you're making progress, and someone else holds you up. Luckily they haven't made this happen with my build.

I'm just excited, gonna be boosted soon :makeout: <- me and my car

UPDATE:


I've been busy as hell with school, work, family and life in general, but I got a few things done over the weekend, and early this week. Mainly just cleaning things up, getting ready for turbo:

- Ran vac line to boost gauge, calibrated gauge, wired lights to LED, and dimmer light to AFR gauge.

Attachment 207021

Non-zeroed boost gauge from BEGi: $0

Calibrating it yourself and knowing manifold pressure for free: PRICELESS

- Picked up some KYB AGX shocks and a Fidanza short-shifter from Chucky's dad. These are both going on probably next weekend when I swap clutch, and will have the car on a lift at uncle's shop.

- Swapped my extra valve cover (was going to polish) for an extra 1.6L VLSD that isn't viscousing anymore. I got this from Byrdmen, a lurker here, who has a really nice red miater that he put a Torsen in. To me it's more cost effective to have an extra diff than to pay for a Torsen now.

- Drilled and tapped oil pan. This was hell, and trying to get in there led me to:

- Remove A/C and PS. I really like the manual rack. Parking's a little tough, but I love the feel, like the space, and appreciate the weight savings. I beat myself so much over this, I'm happy I finally just did it.

Attachment 207022

Yes, you can see concrete down there. Turbo install is going to be EASY.

- Swapped in NB sway bar from Stein (you fuckin' rock Stein, glad to hear you didn't really blow your load all over the road). This was really easy without all the A/C lines in the way. I was going to wait for adjustable endlinks, but I used the Savington method and just tweaked mine. They probably bent about 15-20 degrees, and I'm sure any more work hardening in the form of torsion would have cause failure. They will hold for now. I made up for the other 25 degrees by mounting the bar on the outside of the link instead of the factory inside setup. I don't see any mechanical reason not to do so.

- Due to temporary placement of air filter I was getting some unintended Water Injection when it rained last Friday. While this probably helped clean the pistons a little, I thought it better to move the air filter a little higher off the ground, and away from passenger side front wheel.

Attachment 207023


Tapping the pan was hell, and it hasn't stopped giving me hell. I used a center drill bit, and even it walked on me. It immediately jumped to the left 1inch to the groove right under the second pan bolt, and WENT STRAIGHT THE FUCK THROUGH THE PAN. I'm an experienced machinist, and I still fucked this up. I had probably been thinking about it too long.

Instead of being between the #2 and #3 bolts, I'm right under #2. The stupid drill I was using didn't want to stay chucked on to the bigger bit(oh, how I wish I was in my own garage), and made going through the pan hell. Even though I taped the bit to keep it from going to far, I still nicked what looks like the windage tray, but should be fine.

Then I go to hand thread the fitting, and IT'S TOO FUCKING BIG. BEGi sold me a 3/8" - 18 NPT tap, and the fitting is 1/2" -14 with a 1/2" barb. I needed to use the 1/2" hose since it matches the fitting on the turbo, so this meant a trip to Home Depot. My oil pan now has a collection of adapters attached to it.

Attachment 207024

Then the fucker starts leaking, even though I got it fairly tight, and put JB weld on. I'm not even running oil through it, it has a cap on the other end, ready to put on turbo fitting. I guess oil is hitting the windage tray/crank scraper and going towards the fitting.

I jacked it up, sanded it down, cleaned it, and applied a fuckload of JB-Weld. It seems to be holding up.

Yesterday, after thinking I'm all ready to put turbo on. I notice, while checking for oil drippage, that there is coolant drippage. Luckily I was looking in that same damn area, and caught my water pump going out. So needless to say, I'm going to do a water pump and timing belt job.

I'm kind of worried though, because it looks like my crank pulley is a little wobbly, and I wonder if this didn't help to kill the WP. I will now be replacing the bolt and key as well.



After gaining lots of momentum, my build is coming to a grinding halt due to mechanical problems, waiting on parts, and usual busy schedule. Hopefully things will start working out, because I'm really so damn close it's not funny.

I am ready to bolt the turbo on!


I got the ACT Xtreme Clutch in:

Attachment 206807

Which should easily handle my power goals. Engagement is EXACTLY like stock, smooth and solid. Pedal pressure went up a good bit, but you quickly get used to it.

I also put on the KYB AGXs:

Attachment 206808

Which I really like to my surprise. I had tried to shove them off on someone else and find some Illuminas or Konis, but didn't have any luck, and the car was on a lift Friday, so I went ahead and slapped them on. I'll be back in a few days anyway whenever my bumpstops get in from Sheikh, so if I feel like upgrading shocks(or pulling out the eBay coilovers and putting the Teins back in) I can do it then. I'm kind of experimenting a little with suspension to see what works on the cheap.



I just talked to Stephanie, and the intercooler tubes got back from powdercoating, and are going in the mail today! I'm going to go ahead and start tearing things down, and just skip my morning class, hoping to have all the kinks worked out by the time I go to bed tomorrow.

I AM BOOSTED!


Details to follow, driving more important, just wanted to take the time to say:


THANK YOU!

Thank you Scott, Joe, Savington, Stein, and all the other miataturbo.netters. Thank you Corky and Stephanie at Bell Engineering. Thanks Rick for letting this place be what it is.



Honestly I feel like I just won an Oscar, and that was my speech.


Boost is seriously awesome, and like any good druggie, I'm going to go get some more of it.

Congrats!

Boosteded
 

I spent Monday taking off the stock manifold and downpipe, and most of yesterday rounding up little odds and ends (mainly two studs that go into bottom of manifold/turbo flange). I thought I'd get a lot done finally yesterday evening, but alas, my mother was in town and guilt tripped me into checking out an RV for her (cheaper than a nursing home).



So I just went to my morning class today, and skipped the rest. I got an incredible amount of shit done, probably because I was working by myself, and had everything at hand finally. Everything except the two intercooler pipes, which showed up at precisely the moment I needed them (thanks again Stephanie).



This is the end result:

Attachment 206669

Was trying to convey stealth look in this one, not ugly bumper and half-painted intercooler.

Attachment 206670

Dirty engine bay...sorry.

Attachment 206671

Still missing heat shield, need two more M10 fine thread bolts.

Nothing pretty or exotic, but it defintely works! The BEGi powdercoated pipes are really nice, and I think the heat shield will clean up the look a little bit. I would have loved to fabricate all this, but it would have taken me two years.



The first thing that struck me assembling this kit was the fit and quality of the BEGi parts. Everything just went in to the right place, and this kit is 14yrs old! This is the whole reason I bought a kit, and especially a used kit, and it paid off.

My tune is surprising driveable after two quick datalogs, and I'm really glad I went about the build the way I did. I don't understand how people go to the trouble to install a turbo, and live with bandaids, or stock clutches etc. I enjoy just being able to romp on it, without reserve. AFRs are solid on the LC-1, the ACT clutch holds, and between the MS and big injectors I don't have to worry about fuel or timing concerns.

I still have a few loose ends to tie up, and some cosmetics to address, but it is solid. No couplings blowing off, coolant gauge doesn't budge, but gas sure as hell disappers.

I definitely need more brake. I would like to have taller gears. Redline comes way too fast.

REVIEW:

This fucker flies!

No question about it. Things happen so fast in boost you have to be on the ball to keep up. I have ridden liter bikes for a few years now, and this thing still keeps me busy. I may get used to it and want more later, but I don't see that being soon.

It carries 10psi all the way to redline very well, which is about what I expected, but was surprised to see how well it did it.

The wastegate was supposed to be set at 8psi, and I thought I turned it DOWN! Guess I went the wrong way on that turnbuckle adjustment.

IATs are just above ambient, and I don't see the need to upgrade to a larger intercooler. If I do the Tbird compressor mod which is popular to get to 14psi and beyond with this turbo, I could see needing something bigger, but then again maybe not. This unit held up well to a 30 minute flogging session.


CLIFFS: You're nuts if you don't think a 200hp Miata is a blast.

Few problems finally, they took a couple of weeks to show up. Sleeve joint on downpipe came loose twice, so I ordered a "band clamp" from Jeg's, problem fixed.

I added the VTPS, accel enrichments come on smoother, and idle droop is gone.

Water pump headed south Thursday afternoon. I first replaced the symptom hose, then the thermostat. If I had just decided it was the water pump in the first place, I would have finished it that night instead of waiting on O'reilly to open yesterday morning. WP/TB job only took 4.5hrs though, I was thoroughly proud of myself upon successful fire-up. I hadn't done that on this car in maybe 6 yrs...less nerve racking this time.

I look forward to doing exhaust next week if my metalcat gets here.

Had first race with a Mustang GT...he'd get a car ahead and stay there, couldn't catch him. Must. get. faster.

Working on a cold air box, have already moved air filter as far into fenderwell as I could.

Time to update the ol' build thread a little.

I've started a lot of projects...but really only finished one of them:

Attachment 203229

COPS!!!


I <3 COPS. Took about a half a day to build harness and install. Big thanks to Sav for the hold-down bracket.

All the crap that came off:

Attachment 203230



I'm in the middle of a few things:

Upgrading to 1.8L brakes - So far I've only done the rear since they needed to be replaced anyhow. Pretty good balance without a prop-valve. I'm rebuilding a set of 1.8L front calipers to go with the upgrade, and have stainless Goodridge lines on the shelf.

Swapping to black interior - This has been a monster. I tore out my moldy tan carpet and torn leather seats...and haven't put everything back in yet. This is what it looked like a few weeks ago:

Attachment 203231

But I've since cleaned the tub and installed frame rails. I've also been gradually going through the harness...but I'm ready for defrost and a dash again....not to mention carpet and passenger seat.

I've also got exhaust parts on the shelf (DIY with a Dynomax).

Swapped in Bilstein HDs with NA mounts. They are nice, but I'm waiting to install the Mazdaspeed springs and FCM 36mm bumpstops that *just arrived.

I also just got a 3.90 Tochigi-Fuji Super LSD swap in from levnubbin. I am really looking forward to installing and no longer worrying about grenading the 6". I am going to wait until I can get to my uncle's shop before doing this and the springs. Stand up spring compressor, air tools and lift ftmfw.

I have finished a couple of other things:

Frame Rails - Highly Recommended...easy install.

Roll Bar/Safety Equipment - Autopower 4-point stiffened things up a little as well. Sabelt harness is much easier to live with than I thought...Corbeau Forza is not.


Will update with a few more, better pics as I wrap up what is really a transformation of this car since going turbo.

I woke up early this morning and knocked out the exhaust real quick. After getting a local shop to weld up an adapter and flange for my downpipe yesterday it was very easy.

I used a 14" long Dynomax center-offset straight thru oval(square?) body. It's ridonkulously loud, sounds like rice, and get's obnoxious fast. I don't care though...because my motor is finally BREATHING.

Attachment 203206

This is the 2.5" pipe over the stock crap I cut off. Much more cross sectional area (78% more to be exact), not to mention I only have two small bends all the way to the driver's side of the rear bumper.


The POWER is amazing! I knew it would make a difference, but not rolling into burnouts at the top of second kind of different.

I went with 2.5" since I found this muffler for $40 on CL. I don't plan on ever making over 250whp so it will suffice. I spent about another $40 on bends, clamps, couplers and pipes, and $15 on the downpipe flange/adapter. It's kind of ghetto...but it works. I used mostly straight pipe, one flex section after downpipe, and a bent section around the diff. There are zero crimp bends though...which makes me happy.


Again...this is a must do if you haven't already. I can't believe I lived with stock exhasut for so long. Now I just want to find a way to quieten it down a little.

I got the Reflectix insulation and black carpet in...

Attachment 202933

And painted and installed the dash:

Attachment 202934

To most of you it just looks like a black Miata interior...but to me it's very nice compared to the 3-color-tan with moldy carpet and torn leather seats I used to have.

It's very nice having everything back in the car. I got the defrost working just in time for a 3-day storm...and the Refelctix insulation now keeps my right shoe from getting gummy when in boost.


I also rehung my cheesy exhaust...sturdier...straight...and quieter due to a little more rubber in there (had a cheesy solid mount deal at back end of muffler that was apparently giving me a LOT of resonance in trunk). I cut about 5" of the back of the bumper and moved the muffler up 3" to optimize angle of bends through diff area and minimize scraping. My midpipe also went up a couple of inches and no longer scrapes when suspension bottoms out.



Wife and I recently had a BIG fallout (during which she asked me to leave...but I begged to stay)...and most of the projects are being set back until atleast winter break. I also need to study more...and look forward to more time with family.

Please see my FS thread if you need turbo parts. I was planning on upgrading to a T25 setup in December...but will just button things up with current setup instead...and try to be content.


Wife does agree that I need new tires though. I'm trying to find a good deal in 14"s...but if I can afford to I will find some nice 15" wheels and get sufficient rubber for once. In the two weeks since I did the COPS and exhaust I've nearly balded the rear Bridgestones...and it's downright scary in the wet now.

Anyone know a good 14" tire for a turbo car?

You need:

Wheels for 1990 Mazda Miata

and

Store

Sorry about your wife. My GF goes crazy sometimes but I use the back of my hand to keep things under control. Bitches will be bitches. lol

Wish I could afford both wheels and tires...but I have to pick and choose unless the FS thread blows up.

IF I did go to 15" I would go with Azenis or some of the other myriad summer rubber. I can get the 912 in 14".


Control or abuse? :laugh:

Nice progress man. Any plans on coolant re-route?

Would have done it today if homework had gone better.

Going spacerless for now...adding one later when I'm done drilling/tapping and ready to pull front neck off for good.

If you want a sick look, Mickey Thompson has a 24" tall drag radial that will fit on a 14"x6" wheel. You may need a lower gear to get it to work properly.

Shucks...have a 3.90 sitting out there waiting to go in...should have gone the other direction. :laugh:

looking good dude. maybe clean it up a little inside?

I'll gladly trade you my torsen 4.10 for it:)

PMed

Workin on it...it's still unfinished as I just put in the carpet and painted the dash. Wrapping up trim pieces now. It was HORRIBLE before.

Lower.....4.44.

They dash looks too shinny maybe you should have painted it flat black? Or is it just the picture

The contrast between the dash and center console isn't really as bad as pic shows.

I did use the gloss black as I was afraid of how flat would turn out...it has about twice the glare as the OEM pieces...but it works for me. I was just sick and tired of tan...all three shades of it. Two shades of black is much better.

I really have just been slapping stuff together though due to lack of time. Main goal was to get it ready for winter (defrost etc) since I was running around with nothing but a dash-bar.

I really like it...and for the first time in years it feels like a complete...clean car.



Last night I use the same vinyl and fabric paint on the faded passenger seat and it turned out nice...atleast until my daughter sat in it. It is usually sitting in garage in front of car for her to sit there and "help" me while turning wrenches. She walked out there while I thought I was alone and plopped down. Man was her mom mad! Spent five minutes scrubbing her elbows and hands.

I just remember that you took your rear sway bar out? Why did you do that?

It's back in right now...serves as a "fuse" for the stock 6" rear end until I can swap in the 3.90. Basically causes me to slide before I'd put enough stress on diff to blow it.

When I ran without it I definitely had more rear traction coming out of corners.

Got it! I've been running my 1.6 at 15psi with no problems so far. I do have an open 1.8 in the garage but I've been lazy to swap it. I guess I should cause I hate these 4.3 gears

Do you hate acceleration?

I've cleaned up the interior a LOT more...

But have mainly been working on other things:

MSM SPRINGS

Attachment 202330

Cut one coil off the Mazdaspeeds which put me right back at 13.0/13.25, and installed 36mm FCM bumpstops. Not near as stiff as I thought it would be...and didn't hit my comfort OR handling targets, so I may make some more custom perches to seat eBay collars with QA1 springs (suspension redux VII).



COOLANT REROUTE

Attachment 202331

Dropped average coolant temps ~10*. I used to stay between 207*F and the 215* MS limit, and it now stays right at 198*, with an occasional rise to 203*.

I thought about doing a detailed write-up, but will save the effort since it was simple really. If anyone wants details they can PM and I'll post pics of hose numbers, where I cut, and how I routed.

I swapped the waternecks and went spacerless...but I would go with a spacer for the heater core supply if I could do it over. The rear neck puts the ECU sensor right into the front cam gear cover, and I had to remove that cover. I didn't like having the wiring that close to the gears:

Attachment 202332

and I later found another reason to hate removing that cover - https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t29408-6/#post484351

The extra hose is ugly, but hasn't really gotten in my way at all, even when I was resetting the timing belt.



UP NEXT:

-I've also begun a DevilsOwn WI install...but can't work out some issue with the trigger for the relay. Everything is in and wired up...but when I plug in the relay the pump stays on. This is with the pressure switch feed on "Normally Open" tab. If I switch to the "NC" tab the pump never comes on. I am thoroughly confused by all this...and ready to spray the "super blue."

-I've also got a beat up low pro headlight kit I'm going to clean up, replace bulbs in and install.

-Roll bar is out at the moment until I can put proper padding on it.

-More chassis stiffening in the works, as well as a stereo install as I can no longer live without music

-TIRES Mounted some 215/40ZR16 Kumho SPTs on OEM 16x6.5s and will put them on car soon. Hopefully be able to go forward instead of sideways when I roll into the throttle in second gear now.

Could you route the heater core line around the intake side? Zip tie it to the main hose, it'll look much cleaner since it's already going that direction. You could also get rid of that finger tight hose clamp.

I did replace the finger tights...just had some sitting in garage and ran out of good ones. God I hate those things...look like a good idea...but always leak.



My problem with routing around intake manifold was the sharp angle you'd have to make to get it to go over the copper line. It would rub either head, valve cover, manifold or heat shield.

Now, if you put a little pipe connection back there to mate with the factory hose or other molded elbow it would work.

You could use that spring trick that M-tuned uses on their reroute kit to avoid the kink.

Haven't seen it...just a coil around the hose though I'd imagine...still awfully tight. Now that I've cut that piece I don't think I have enough slack to go back and change it.

I've got a blank spacer sitting on the shelf that I'll get around to machining one day. I want it to have a heater core feed nipple, ECU sensor spot, and standard water temp gauge sensor spot.

Coil goes inside actually, instructions with pictures on are their site.

Let's see some pics with the new wheels.

Still just cell phone pics.

Been raining too much to wash it...so can't justify pulling out my wife's new Canon.

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Also got the water injection working...turned out to be a dead Nason pressure switch. I replaced it with a 4psi Hobbs NO, which looks like it's closing at 5-6psi. This is good since I was going to set the adjustable at 7-8psi, but the next step up in a Hobbs was 10psi, and it wasn't in stock at NAPA.

I've already advanced timing about 20% (5*+ in boost), and am a little more aggressive than Scott's old Super 60 Map. I plan to get close to Hustler's numbers (timing advance map, not dyno) when I actually pull out the det cans.

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Also got another Tbird turbo in yesterday. These have a larger compressor than my RHB5, and are a common upgrade in the IHI world. This one has minimal shaft play, and was supposedly rebuilt about 5K miles ago. I had a beat up one on the shelf I was going to rebuild, but I may just run this one and see if it doesn't shit the bed.

I plan to make the jump from 12 to 15psi soon. Will work on it after finals since the compressor inlet is a little different and won't work with the BEGi pipes.