AutoFreak57's build thread
#1
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AutoFreak57's build thread
Well I probably should have started this a while ago, but better late than never.
I'll start with pictures in a semi-chronological order.
The first couple posts will be stock photos, but turbo goodness will come shortly
First day I bought the car:
A couple more stock pictures:
Tomorrow: Parts
I'll start with pictures in a semi-chronological order.
The first couple posts will be stock photos, but turbo goodness will come shortly
First day I bought the car:
A couple more stock pictures:
Tomorrow: Parts
Last edited by AutoFreak57; 06-22-2010 at 08:29 PM.
#4
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So Azure is what that color is called, never knew. I decided to change my update schedule because pictures of a stock miata are boring.
Bought the car in October. In December I started ordering parts. First was a used FMII kit. I bought a kit for an NA, so I sold a few parts and bought the correct NB parts
NA FMII Kit:
- GT2560 Turbo
- Large intercooler upgrade
- Manual boost controller
NA Parts I couldn't use:
-Downpipe
-Intercooler brackets
-Throttle body adapter
-Oil Feed
-Air Box
Innovate LC-1 and G-2 gauge:
Track Dog Racing Gauge Panel:
Used FM Turbo Muffler (stock on bottom):
Other parts I do not have pictures of:
- 10AN SS Drain line and fittings
- 6AN SS Coolant lines and fittings
- FM Feed line
- Adaptronic ECU
- Deatschwerks 600cc
- Summit Racing Coolant temp gauge and sender
- Sunpro Boost Gauge (FM one was broken)
- M-Tuned coolant reroute (ended up selling because of redesigned head gasket)
- DIYAutoTune GM IAT sensor
- Rest of parts for FMII kit from Flyin' Miata
- 323GTX PCV Valve
- Used RoadsterSport 2.5" Midpipe
- NGK BKR6E spark plugs
- EGR Block-Off Plates
Everything Ready for install:
Tomorrow: Coolant reroute saga and Adaptronic install
Bought the car in October. In December I started ordering parts. First was a used FMII kit. I bought a kit for an NA, so I sold a few parts and bought the correct NB parts
NA FMII Kit:
- GT2560 Turbo
- Large intercooler upgrade
- Manual boost controller
NA Parts I couldn't use:
-Downpipe
-Intercooler brackets
-Throttle body adapter
-Oil Feed
-Air Box
Innovate LC-1 and G-2 gauge:
Track Dog Racing Gauge Panel:
Used FM Turbo Muffler (stock on bottom):
Other parts I do not have pictures of:
- 10AN SS Drain line and fittings
- 6AN SS Coolant lines and fittings
- FM Feed line
- Adaptronic ECU
- Deatschwerks 600cc
- Summit Racing Coolant temp gauge and sender
- Sunpro Boost Gauge (FM one was broken)
- M-Tuned coolant reroute (ended up selling because of redesigned head gasket)
- DIYAutoTune GM IAT sensor
- Rest of parts for FMII kit from Flyin' Miata
- 323GTX PCV Valve
- Used RoadsterSport 2.5" Midpipe
- NGK BKR6E spark plugs
- EGR Block-Off Plates
Everything Ready for install:
Tomorrow: Coolant reroute saga and Adaptronic install
#10
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#11
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Wow, I never knew!!! It's like...it's like....um....
A whole new world
A new fantastic point of view
No one to tell us no
Or where to go
Or say we're only dreaming
A whole new world
A dazzling place I never knew
But when I'm way up here
It's crystal clear
That now I'm in a whole new world with you
Now I'm in a whole new world with you
Thanks! If you were a hot girl, I'd make out with you
(Regardless of whether or not you showed me the path to [IMG] happiness)
#14
Sell me that airbox cheap.
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#16
I should ban you......
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#17
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
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So I wanted to get as much installed before the turbo install. The first things I went to install were the coolant reroute and Adaptronic.
Coolant reroute:
This install is really straight forward as long as you actually remember that one bolt is longer than the rest and must go in the back of the head. I spent what seemed like 2 hours trying to start the threads in the back before I realized that. When I went to go back to stock it took about an hour to hour and a half for the whole thing.
After installing and bleeding like 10 times, I was never able to get rid of an overheat on startup. I did end up cutting the hose shorter than it is in these photos to eliminate an air bubble that was probably sitting in the hose, but it would always go all the way to hot then return to normal and never overheat again. Between that and the thread on m.net about the redesigned head gasket, I removed the reroute and sold it. After returning to stock and without burping the system, the start overheat was gone.
Overall, I am very impressed with the kit. It is very high quality. The only thing I would change is the make the lower part of the coolant outlet smaller. It is so big it needs the longer bolt, gets stuck on the egr pipe on the way in, and I could not see a reason it was so big
Engine Pic (notice big curve in outlet hose)
Coolant Outlet
Thermostat Housing
Adaptronic:
The Adaptronic install went pretty well. Travis came over and helped install it. We did not get it running that day because I forgot to buy a tuning cable and Travis didn't bring his, but he did solder everything in and install it for me. Something I did not realize, it takes 5 minutes to make the car run on the stock ECU. Just unplug the MAP sensor, plug in the MAF, and switch ECU plugs
The location in the manual did not work for me. The harness would not reach. The picture below shows the location I used. It is behind the steering wheel panel, underneath the steering column. It is zip-tied to the dash frame and does not move. I need to make a bracket for it, but it is just so tight down there. Also, if you push the ECU too far up, it will push the dimmer out.
About two weeks later I got a tuning cable and got the car started on the base map. I drove it like that for a while, but never got a decent startup by myself so I returned to stock. After the turbo install, I got the car up and running on Travis's new base map. Starts first try now.
Map sensor - I am not happy with map sensor location. It is mounted to the ground location at the throttle body. It is either tighten the bolt down until the sensor breaks (did that ) or have an occasional loose ground. I am going to move the map sensor to the washer bottle location soon.
I did install the LC-1 at this point. I zip-tied it to the brake lines. It has since moved twice. BTW, if you mount the LC-1 under the hood, it is a stretch to get the O2 plugged in after going turbo.
Location (camera is by clutch pedal looking up)
Map Sensor Location (blue hose replaced within a week)
First LC-1 location
Next Update: Gauge install
Coolant reroute:
This install is really straight forward as long as you actually remember that one bolt is longer than the rest and must go in the back of the head. I spent what seemed like 2 hours trying to start the threads in the back before I realized that. When I went to go back to stock it took about an hour to hour and a half for the whole thing.
After installing and bleeding like 10 times, I was never able to get rid of an overheat on startup. I did end up cutting the hose shorter than it is in these photos to eliminate an air bubble that was probably sitting in the hose, but it would always go all the way to hot then return to normal and never overheat again. Between that and the thread on m.net about the redesigned head gasket, I removed the reroute and sold it. After returning to stock and without burping the system, the start overheat was gone.
Overall, I am very impressed with the kit. It is very high quality. The only thing I would change is the make the lower part of the coolant outlet smaller. It is so big it needs the longer bolt, gets stuck on the egr pipe on the way in, and I could not see a reason it was so big
Engine Pic (notice big curve in outlet hose)
Coolant Outlet
Thermostat Housing
Adaptronic:
The Adaptronic install went pretty well. Travis came over and helped install it. We did not get it running that day because I forgot to buy a tuning cable and Travis didn't bring his, but he did solder everything in and install it for me. Something I did not realize, it takes 5 minutes to make the car run on the stock ECU. Just unplug the MAP sensor, plug in the MAF, and switch ECU plugs
The location in the manual did not work for me. The harness would not reach. The picture below shows the location I used. It is behind the steering wheel panel, underneath the steering column. It is zip-tied to the dash frame and does not move. I need to make a bracket for it, but it is just so tight down there. Also, if you push the ECU too far up, it will push the dimmer out.
About two weeks later I got a tuning cable and got the car started on the base map. I drove it like that for a while, but never got a decent startup by myself so I returned to stock. After the turbo install, I got the car up and running on Travis's new base map. Starts first try now.
Map sensor - I am not happy with map sensor location. It is mounted to the ground location at the throttle body. It is either tighten the bolt down until the sensor breaks (did that ) or have an occasional loose ground. I am going to move the map sensor to the washer bottle location soon.
I did install the LC-1 at this point. I zip-tied it to the brake lines. It has since moved twice. BTW, if you mount the LC-1 under the hood, it is a stretch to get the O2 plugged in after going turbo.
Location (camera is by clutch pedal looking up)
Map Sensor Location (blue hose replaced within a week)
First LC-1 location
Next Update: Gauge install
#20
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 587
Total Cats: 99
Meet around the back at St. Matthew's at 11. It's the parking lot at the back corner by the highway. By Dillards I think. There is a thread on 502 about it. In the social section. It's titled Southern Indiana Road meet or something like that