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very cool!
is this little ding going to cause any problems? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380157797 |
No, I just checked and that cleaned up when we surfaced the head. Good eye!
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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 After the head was done I balanced the ST 8.6:1 83.5mm pistons and Manley rods. Installed the ARP main/head studs. Boundary Engineering Extreme oil pump, ATI Damper, and ACL Race bearings. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 Pretty painted block https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 Lots of this stuff https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 Block was resurfaced and line bored https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 94-00 head gasket installed properly https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 Gates Racing timing belt https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 Adjustable cam gear for exhaust side to maximize tune ability to increase low end spool since that was the main goal of this build.... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 Continuing with the mindset of spool over maximum flow I made a low volume exhaust manifold based on the Absurd flow design out of schedule 40 mild steel weld els from the local plumbing supply house. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 Little ugly but hey, it was my first one and I was using flux core wire! 0.035 at 185amps on 220V Lincoln welder https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 I used a die grinder to clean up the inside ports..... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 Then I bought a Tig welder and started getting experience. I welded a -6AN fitting to the water pump and drilled through it to allow my turbo coolant to return to the system before the pump. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 Stainless oil/coolant lines with AN fittings for the clean professional installation. Really happy with the look of the black fittings over the bling bling blue/red. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 To route the coolant from the heater core to the water pump I wanted to avoid the down pipe area so I cut the steel line that fits into the housing and welded a bead around the end to prevent the hose from coming off. I welded a tab to hold it in place with one of the bolts that secures the PS pump to the block. Notice the second O-ring? Ask me why it is there.....lets just say you should remove it before welding the pipe, even if you think you are keeping it cool..... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 The piece is sitting on my 49" belt sander that I found indispensable while fabricating my exhaust and IC charge pipes. I am happy with my tig welding skills for a self taught noob https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 A slight modification to the bumper support to allow clearance of the FMIC https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 I used 3" mandrel bent aluminized 16ga steel for the exhaust. I used two 18" resonators and the big dog Magnaflow muffler. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380161805 |
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Before
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380163223 After https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380163223 I cut the package shelf at the firewall like the guys who do V8 swaps to give me more room for the down pipe. I cut it, welded in a piece of like sized sheet metal, then used seam sealer from a auto body supply shop ($23 a tube!!!), and painted it with made to order matching enamel paint. |
Wow man that all came out great, especially for your first time! Welding looks good, especially the aluminum.
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Thanks! I am pleased with it....
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so I take it you had a blast driving it this weekend? :)
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Hell yeah! I put 1300 miles on in three days of canyon carving in the mountains of NC/TN/VA. Not a bad test for my build I think? It had about 150 miles on it before I headed up the hill. There were about 120 miatas there, my guess is 20 were forced induction. I was definitely one of the fastest ones there and I was, am, still learning my setup. Just before going to the event I put on new wheels (9" 6UL), tires (225 Rivals), and shocks (Ohlins DFV) plus I tripled the power so the car was all new to me. I love how the EFR spools coming out of the corners. Can't wait to get the EBC and knock control working properly to really experience what this car truly has. I did discover I will be in the market for a BBK in the near future! One run coming down the mountain found my HPS pads at their limit!
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How does the car sound with the two resonators and the muffler? I imagine it's fairly quite in cruise and low throttle?
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Extremely quiet! Stockish? There is a deep rumble when you get on it in boost, but idle and low throttle is very quiet and civil.
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Very nice DIY fab and parts selection!
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You really don't cut corners man! How about some videos of in-car mountain runs or dyno time? In for numbers and maybe I'll see this car in real life sometime.
I wish I could weld and make my own everything like you. What injectors are you using? MS3? |
Thanks!
ID 850's, Reverant built MS3 with extras. Come west and we will hit the mountains together! The car is a lot of fun....I will try to post some video soon..... I hope to dyno next week and will post results then. I am not happy with the results from the first trip to the dyno (305/310). |
I will be sure to come out west. New to the state and haven't gotten out to the smoky mountains yet... such shame.
What empirical data differences did you get from the flowbench? I've been wondering what true gains fine head work like that yields. |
I think you mean the Appalachian mountains.....
I don't remember the details of the flow bench....the data is in terms of flow above the benchmark which is an average of many stock VVT heads. I remember it was just a little better than 20% more flow than stock. I forgot the paper at the shop that did the flow bench.....pretty sure he recorded it in his book though. If not, I will pull the head and do it again when it is time to order cams.... |
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It has been a while.....I am finally starting to work on my car again. Here are a couple teaser pictures of what I did today.....
In an effort to continue with my copy of Soviet's awesomeness I wanted to use the LS truck coils. I welded 1/2" aluminum stand offs to the valve cover and tapped them M5X.80 so I can mount the coils with the same bolts that GM did. I had to mount them on the exhaust side and I will fab a heat shield to protect them. I also had to mount them aft of the plug holes to clear the factory strut tower. I also welded AN-10 bungs for an oil catch can. Will be traveling north next week and probably won't get to the dyno until the first week of December. Hoping to see 370 on the Mustang dyno..... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1384641936 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1384641936 |
Ahh love this car. Great build man, and great job on the DIY stuff. Really nice job.
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Thanks! After reading for two years what other on this site are doing I am trying to build the very best turbo setup I can. I look forward to seeing what "all of it" will produce on the dyno......
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if you have access to e85 this should produce some very impressive results. if not, water/meth whatever. should still be a beast
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I can get any and all of that....but I am building a street car and want to be able to drive it across the country and want to be able to run on 93 pump gas. That said, I do plan to make everything E85 compatible just for shits and grins.....
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map switching is very simple now that we have ms3 ;)
in fact, I'm running req fuel switching with the flick of a switch in mine |
I am working on my intake manifold now....might have it welded up tomorrow if I can decide the runner length. I think if I get it right it will be a game changer....I hope to post pics of that soon. My plan is to flow bench it with a clear end plate so I can see how the plenum feeds each cylinder through the use of smoke. I plan to video that test and will post it here, should be pretty cool!
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Only problem I can see (and you might have thought of this) is the flow bench (if fed at a constant rate) might not show reverberations like it would recieve in situ. The valve closing events and pulsations will drastically change flow patterns (to observe the smoke)
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Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1074778)
Only problem I can see (and you might have thought of this) is the flow bench (if fed at a constant rate) might not show reverberations like it would recieve in situ. The valve closing events and pulsations will drastically change flow patterns (to observe the smoke)
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1074013)
map switching is very simple now that we have ms3 ;)
in fact, I'm running req fuel switching with the flick of a switch in mine |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1074782)
It'll at least tell him if the plenum is not horribly designed if the flow bench gives him even flow across the runner. That doesnt mean that with valve activities that the flow will be even. But if its not even in steady state then...
The valve events will make one that flows even change completely. all that it will do is show some neat smoke patterns on a flow bench without being able to stop flow the distance away from the flange that your valves are. Even going OS valves will change the design and how it balances. Though we are now splitting hairs... you can build a good IM without doing all of this... but if you want to do it to show something-do it the way worth doing. OP, what design parameters are you using for your IM build? plenum volume, runner length, velocity stack, velocity stack to plenum top distance, throttle body.... |
Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1074796)
Im going to pretend you didnt say that.
The valve events will make one that flows even change completely. all that it will do is show some neat smoke patterns on a flow bench without being able to stop flow the distance away from the flange that your valves are. Even going OS valves will change the design and how it balances. Though we are now splitting hairs... you can build a good IM without doing all of this... but if you want to do it to show something-do it the way worth doing. OP, what design parameters are you using for your IM build? plenum volume, runner length, velocity stack, velocity stack to plenum top distance, throttle body.... |
sure.
who is to say the backing up of the air from the other 3 cylinders from valve events doesnt even it out for cylinder #1. (hint: this actually happens) |
Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1074816)
sure.
who is to say the backing up of the air from the other 3 cylinders from valve events doesnt even it out for cylinder #1. (hint: this actually happens) |
Wow, lots of great thoughts, thanks guys! We should move this over to my intake manifold thread though....lol
I don't have all the answers to the questions asked. My current plan involves a rather large plenum. Skunks 64mm TB. I have read that if you don't have a good design the plenum will cause the air to flow over the first cylinder and not feed all the cylinders equally. I don't have the ability to do CFD, but I do have the ability to pull vacuum on all cylinders equally and see if the smoke seems to feed into all of them or dramatically flow over one....not really sure what I will learn, and I am certainly open to new ideas! If someone can CFD my design I will be happy to share details, in fact I would love that before I get to welding.... can anyone help with that? |
If you already have a cad model of it I'll see if I can run it at some point this week, at least on the basic tests the transient tests take hours to just setup in the cfd software and then more hours to run.
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Why does this thread not have a single picture of a sweet looking heavily boosted 10AE?
Post pics of the whole car! |
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Time for an update.....
Tired of turbo nuts backing off I have pulled the car into the shop for some work. Will show details of my solution for keeping my nuts where I want them later in the week when I get it back from the water jets...... For now, here is what I did to my valve cover. I read somewhere on Mnet a couple years ago that people were filling the chambers with steel wool to help remove the oil vapors from the air being pulled through the PCV system. I felt like plastic was a better foreign material to have in my engine than steel wool. I DID clean off the old RTV and used Hondabond to seal the cover plates. I will be using a catch can with AN-10 lines. I am also installing a flat top manifold/Skunks TB/D585 LS2 truck coils and working OP gauge at this time. So I took one of these (plastic dish scrubbers) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397493379 Cut it to allow it to open up. Then I removed all the loose pieces that came from cutting it..... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397493379 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397493379 Then I spread it out in the baffle chamber https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397493379 And https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397493379 |
Melty, anyone? Doesn't seem like a great idea to me. :dunno:
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Didn't jasonSSBSSBSBSBS do like the exact same thing with the exact same colors of plastic bits?
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If so, did his shit melt?
I didn't even think about that. I figured they survive a dishwasher but that is only about 190°. I will test the melting point of these before install. Thanks for looking out for me! |
I forget. I'm not sure the thread got updated.
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Oven is warming up now. Figured I would start at 250, then go to 275, and finally 300. I figure if it will take 250-275 it should be fine. What are your thoughts?
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For some reason that picture just screams "BAD IDEA" to me, but i have no evidence to back it up with. In for results.
I had luck with stuffing my catch can with steel wool for the same reason, and from what I've seen of the stuff I'd never put in the valve cover baffels. Not sure on that nylon stuff, it might be fine. |
If the nylon melts, the copper scrubbies (make sure to get the ones without integrated soap) should work. They hold together unlike the steel wool.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1121545)
If the nylon melts, the copper scrubbies (make sure to get the ones without integrated soap) should work. They hold together unlike the steel wool.
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I want to say I remember reading about JasonCSBB fooling around with something like this on m.net, but a short search I couldn't find it. I want to say that the material in the baffles wicked the oil up and filled his intake/catch can, but I may be 100% wrong. Maybe it was removing the baffles that was the problem.
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^^^^ Props for a great idea! Now I should give negative props for not letting me know before that Hondabond set up! lol. Lets check the oven......
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397506076 |
Originally Posted by Amellrotts
(Post 1121564)
^^^^ Props for a great idea! Now I should give negative props for not letting me know before that Hondabond set up! lol. Lets check the oven......
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397506076 |
Crank that shit up and see what temp it melts at! Destructive testing is best testing.
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Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1121567)
Not to be negative, but i'd want it rated for at least 300 degs before i'd consider using it. Also, think about the airflow past it, the oil and gasoline(or e85) contamination, and the heat altogether over thousands of miles.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397507227 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397507227 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397507227 Notice something? It has the same reaction to heat as my pecker does to the cold..... the more extreme, the smaller it gets! While I am no longer worried about a molten puddle of plastic resting perfectly under a valve shim and thus f*cking up my rather expensive head, I do believe the copper is a much better way to go. :confused::confused: |
Originally Posted by thenuge26
(Post 1121573)
Crank that shit up and see what temp it melts at! Destructive testing is best testing.
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LOL, awesome pics. Seeing it hold up at those temps, it would probably be fine. I still think the copper stuff is a better idea. :party:
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YAY DATA! This is why I love MT.net. Any other car forum would have 5 pages of people arguing about why it would work or wouldn't work. Here we just throw that shit in the oven and melt it.
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Well shit! I turned the oven off after I took the last picture of over 400 degrees and was considering leaving this in until I get around to powder coating the valve cover. Then I opened the oven and found this......https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397531214
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397531214 Guess I am looking for a copper scrubby! |
I thoroughly enjoyed that test, thank you :)
LOL |
LOL @ puddle of plastic.
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A+++, would read again.
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Yeah I didn't think about the time factor. A real test would be to put it in a bowl of oil, leave it in the oven on 250°F for a few hours, then turn the oven off and leave it until it cools. Then see what it looks like.
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In for more plastic scrubby abuse.
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So I drove around for a little while and then checked to see how the plastic was doing.....
POOF! This is what I saw...... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398301825 |
it changed color?
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