The bumper cover does not seal to the plastic bumper support. I had to cram upholstery foam in the gaps. I also opened up the top of the bumper mouth in the bumper cover and eventually in the plastic bumper support right above the bumper mouth to allow more air to come through. I sealed it so that additional air would come up behind the plastic bumper support and over the metal cross beam and go to the top of the radiator. Lots of additional air flow to be found there, just seal it up good.

 

The Amazon fairy brought it :-) Probably not the most cost effective, but the flat sheets were much easier to work with than when it comes rolled up.

Excellent, very good to know, thanks! I didn't think that much would escape around the crash bar. I'll work on sealing that up too.

 

CAD rocks! You did a better job than I, but I have to redo some and will try harder LOL! Your work has inspired me to extract the digit and get on with it, I may even re-do the whole bloody lot. Have a cat!!

I like your clamping/bending tools, did you use a heatgun to soften the plastic to bend it?

 

Thanks dude! There was definitely a learning curve, but it seems to be working well, so I'm happy with the results! Yes, I used a heat gun to heat the ABS. I would clamp it between the 2 sheets of subflooring, with the bend line right at the edge. Then I'd heat it up and bend it with another piece of wood. One interesting thing that I found was, if I didn't heat it enough before I bent it, it would actually straighten back out if I heated it up again. This was particularly annoying when I had several bends near each other, as the previous bend would start undoing itself as I was heating the adjacent area. Then I found that if I applied heat long enough, it would stay bent even when I heated it up again.

 

Thanks for those tips, I figured you would had to use heat but knowing about it 'unbending', and how to prevent it is really useful!

 

I'm starting to work on adding EBC to my setup. I have an MSLabs MS3 Basic, serial # 12294. The wire colors on the pigtail do not match what's in the documentation on the MS Labs website:

Unused wires on pigtail...which is the EBC ground connection?

@Reverant do you recognize this at all? Any idea which might be the EBC ground connection?

Alternatively, what if I were to tell the MS to test the valve, connect a 9v to one wire on the valve and then try each of these with the other wire till I find the one that makes it actuate...any reason that's a terrible idea?

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These colors suggest a pre-2016 ECU, which is why they don't match what's on the web site (the colors have remained the same since 2016). I can check in the morning, in the mean time you can open the connector and go by pin number, which has remained the same since 2013 with the introduction of the Basic V2.0.

 

Thank you, Rev!! If it's not too much trouble to send me the color coding scheme for the pre-2016 pigtail, that would be a huge help!

 

 

Thank you!